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Recently had my air oil seperator replaced. At start ran a little rough now runs super rough and wants to stall. Changed 2 pre cat o2 sensors and mass air flow sensor. These are the current codes, 0112, 0300, 0301, 0302, 0303, 1316, 0102, 0130. Prior the car ran perfect and I cant believe I have all those cylinders misfiring because of plugs or coils. Please help
Hoping to provide some clarity on replacing the crankshaft position sensor on a 986 WITH Tiptronic transmission as I have not seen (or was unable to find) any good/clear pictures of the process to find the sensor. As I found out, it is hiding well behind the plug/receptacle for the Oxygen sensor on the right side of the vehicle. I read all kinds of guides pointing me to the correct general location, but they all pretty much said it was obvious and I knew exactly what I was looking for. I spent well over an hour searching because I could not see it, and found out that on a Tiptronic, you have no direct line of sight to the sensor unless you move the oxygen sensor plug/receptacle. Hopefully these pictures will help anyone else trying to replace the CPS no a tip.
In order to see the CPS you must unplug the oxygen sensor, remove the receptacle mounting bolt and push both cables and mount/receptacle out of your way. The view shown here is from underneath the car looking up towards the wheel well and CV joint.
A wider view of the area you need to look into remove the oxygen sensor, receptacle, and bracket. You can follow the cable from the oxygen sensor to the bracket in order to find it more easily.
This is your entry point and trajectory. Just beside the right rear brake caliper, under the brake fluid line, past the coolant reservoir drain hose. The extension is probably all of 18 inches to get you deep into where you need to be to unscrew the bolt holding the CPS in place. I used the light you see plus a large work light on the floor to finally visualize the sensor. The only way I was finally able to find the sensor was to identify the cable from the sensor and follow it by hand and light. That is when I realized I could not see it due to the oxygen sensor plug being in the way.
This is just a wider shot of the entry using the light as a reference and the brake caliper is in the foreground.
Here is a view of the CPS still in place, but the bolt has been removed. The oxygen sensor plug and receptacle have also been removed and pushed out of the way. Once you see the CPS, it is obvious that is what you've been looking for. What I think are coolant hoses are very close to the trajectory you need to access the bolt. My extensions were pushed up right next to these hoses and I had to push on them with the tool in order to get access to the bolt.
Just a couple of other tips and tricks. The bolt of the CPS is held on by thread locker. Make sure you have good engagement with your male hex into the screw head during removal, otherwise it could strip. I recommend ordering a new screw for the CPS while you're at it, the newer ones are torx and less likely to strip. Once you locate the CPS you will find that you can actually reach in there with your fingers through a path in order to push it out of and into the hole. When you go to put in your new CPS, place it in first without the bolt. You can wiggle it into the hole reasonably easy with your fingers through the aforementioned path. When you go to place the bolt, either use a magnetic tool or tape the bolt to your male hex so that it doesn't fall off. Yours truly lost the original bolt and still have yet to find it. Luckily it is a pretty standard M6x16 available at your local hardware store. But I have no clue where that bolt ended up. I searched by every means possible including a powerful magnet around the area of loss and still could not find it.
Hope this helps save you the hour or so of searching in your 986 Tiptronic for the CPS. Remove that O2 sensor harness first and you'll save a bunch of time and frustration!
By Christiaan Poortman
Hello, I'm new on this forum and stumbled upon a new problem (or old) with my 2.5l 986 Boxster from 1997.
The problem occurs when the engine is started dead cold after sitting a few hours/overnight.
Engine starts immediately but the RPMs start to surge / hunt between 1100 and 700 RPM. This continues for about 10 seconds after which the idle smoothes out to the normal cold idle RPM.
The first pull away requires a tad more throttle then normal to prevent stalling. After this first pull, everything is almost normal and engine performance becomes better and better. When the engine is hot, the idle sits at 780 RPM with a minor fluctuation now and then (seems to be more than normal)
I've been to two shops (official Porsche dealer and local Porsche specialist). Porsche dealer couldn't find anything and the specialist found the camshaft sensor on the left bank to be unplugged - but now comes the strange thing - the cabling is nowhere to be found!!!!!!? Took the car home to check myself but didn't find anything.
No camshaft related codes to be found in the diagnosis and no CEL either.
Attached one pic showing the sensor and it's missing plug
Could someone help me out? - Is it possible for the engine not to throw a CEL when sensor is disconnected? - where is the sensor wire to be found?
By Danny Hammoud
Unfortunately, I am back with another problem or problems........
A couple of days ago a check engine light popped up on my 997.2s and because it is my daily driver, I was not able to immediately diagnose the issue. I went ahead and ordered a "Carsoft POR II" scanner off amazon as i thought it would help my understanding in what the problem was. (Getting to the point.....) Today while I was driving home from class, the car was running very rough. I decided to pull over and give the scanner a go...
P0660 INTAKE PIPE SWITCHOVER FINAL STAGE
P0153 02 SENSOR AHEAD OF CAT BANK 2 DYNAMISM
P2099 A/F RATIO CORRECT. BEH. CAT. BANK 2 ABOVE RICH CONTROL UNIT
P2198 02 SENSOR AHEAD OF CAT. BANK 2 TOO RICH SIGNAL
P0174 BANK 2 TOO LEAN
P0171 SYSTEM TOO LEAN
P2196 02 SENSOR SIGNAL BIASED/ STUCK BANK 1 SENSOR 1
Being the person I am, I went ahead and cleared the codes dreaming my problems would magically go away. 😃
About 10 minutes into my commute the codes again popped up but this time, there was something a bit different.......
THE NEW CODES INCLUDED;
P0174 SYSTEM TOO LEAN BANK 2
P0171 SYSTEM TOO LEAN BANK 1
P0306 MISFIRE CYLINDER 6
P0305 MISFIRE CYLINDER 5
P0304 MISFIRE CYLINDER 4
P0300 MISFIRE - TOTAL ERROR
P0660 INTAKE PIPE SWITCHOVER FINAL STAGE
About 2 months ago I installed a new O2 sensor bank 1 sensor. While at it, I had a new AOS installed as well ( OEM parts). There are some theories I have in mind but as for now, I am truly stumped on this issue. Does anyone have any experience with this madness?! Thanks for reading! 😟
This morning I started my car again and a puff of white smoke shot out of the tail pipes. The smoke did clear up really quick.
MORE NEW CODES;
P2A04 O2 SENSOR CIRCUT RANGE/ PERFORMANCE BANK 2 SENSOR 2
P2099 POST CATALYST FUEL TRIM SYSTEM TOO RICH BANK 2
P0153 O2 SENSOR CIRCUIT SLOW RESPONSE BANK 2 SENSOR 1
P2198 O2 SENSOR SIGNAL BIASED/ STUCK RICH BANK 2 SENSOR 1
P0171 SYSTEM TOO LEAN BANK 1
Hi Guys, I am a proud owner of a 2010 Porsche Cayenne Base model and I have been having a intermittent Engine hesitation issue. the following is a detailed issue of whats been happening, any suggestions that would help resolve this is appreciated.
About a month ago I was coming back from Roosevelt lake ,AZ which is about 3 hours from Tucson, it was a hot day 113deg, I was already in town and the gas gauge read about 1/8 of a tank and I was starting to move from a light when all of the sudden it felt like the engine stalled and came back on for a second then it did it again and my CEL came on.
I thought maybe my gauge was off and i was running out of fuel so i found the nearest gas station and filled up, I drove home and connected my car to my Icarsoft Computer and it was showing error P2293 Rail Pressure Control, I cleared the error and decided I would drive the car and see if it would happened again, Two months and hundreds of miles of mixed city and highway driving went by without a hitch.
Last week I had to go to LA so I packed up the car (4 passengers and luggage) and headed out. About two hours in on I8 right before Yuma it was 114 degrees outside and I was cruising at about 85 MPH, the gas gauge read about 5/8 of a tank all oil and coolant temps were normal when all of the sudden the hesitation came back, it would run normal then hiccup then run normal, ect.. and the CEL came back on, this went on for about 20 minutes but I was still able to maintain 80-85 MPH.
After 20 minutes of this we decided to pull into a gas station and fill the tank with gas to see if anything would change and wouldn't you know that after filling up and setting off again over the mountain pass towards San Diego the car ran without a hitch, we averaged 77 MPH all the way to LA, but we would stop to fill up whenever the gauge read 5/8. after a couple of hours the CEL turned off on its own.
On our way back to Tucson we decided to fill up in San Diego and not fill up until it started to act up, and to my surprise the car once more ran flawlessly.
We didn't fill up until the gas low warning chime came on in Marana, AZ. The highest temperature this day was 104 deg. We filled the tank and made it home without incident. The next day I connected my car to my Icarsoft computer and it was showing the following error codes: P2293 Rail Pressure control, P0300 Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected, P0301 cylinder 1 misfire detected, P0303 cylinder 3 misfire detected.
Could this be ambient temperature related? Vapor lock at high ambient temps? If it was the fuel pumps you think it would have failed again on the way back, right?
This has to be happening to other people with 2007-2010 Cayenne Base models. Any input will help.
Thanks in Advance.