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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/11/2018 in all areas

  1. Ho Loren. I'm talking about this step... There's no indication as to how much force is required to extricate the thermostat from the housing. It should just be held in by the gaskets at this point so I would think it would come out w/o too much effort - maybe 10-20 lbs of pull. Guess I'll pull harder. ETA: The answer is to indeed pull harder. Takes quite a bit to get it removed.
    1 point
  2. Illustration 810-11 in PET. I think item 7 is plastic or abs or ?
    1 point
  3. For me, I would say that the switch pulls out to two positions. One for front fog lights and then the second for the rear fog light.
    1 point
  4. I was looking for things to do to the CTT I own, and decided it will need a refresh of the door sill aluminum plates. Have one of these on each door, plus rear bumper skid pad and rear trunk like bottom edge. So had to repeat this on every plate I wanted to apply this to. Simple process: 1. Buy equipment - aluminum polish kit - Harbor Freight Tools - under $5 including tax (believe it was $3.99) - masking tape for taping off areas you do not want to touch (about $2) - general cleaner/degreaser to cleaning of the sills after job is done ( about $4) - corded drill (any will do, but cord drill will not discharge forcing you to wait - any self respecting man already has one) 2. Prep car - mask off each plate that you want to restore - Use exacto or other device to trim along plates for perfect coverage 3. Do the job - Apply polish compound to buffer - Slowly work one section at a time, pressing medium light, to medium pressure (slightly harder than pressure applied when buffing a car surface - remember, you are polishing scratches out) - continue to work small section at a time, for about 30 minutes total per plate - continue to apply more polish compound onto buffer when noticing compound not getting getting applied onto plates anymore when buffing - Wipe plate off to verify you achieved proper sheen and scratch removal (if not, continue, focusing on areas/scratches to remove) - When done, wipe clean and clean out entire sill area (polish compound peels off and gets thrown around the area - vacuum is best way to remove) 4. Repeat on every door sill plate you want this done to. 5. Inspect and enjoy the result of work
    1 point
  5. Welcome to RennTech Always be careful about using crimp style connectors in these wiring looms; a lot of circuits in these cars are low or even fractional voltage systems, and crimp connectors can cause dissimilar metal corrosion over time, leading to increased resistance and unending problems. We always solder these connections and use heat shrink tubing over the solder joints. We recently had a Boxster in the shop with complaints of weird idle problems and occasional stalling issues. This car had been in and out of a handful of shops trying to solve the problem, and had gone through the replacement of O2 sensor for over $1K, new MAF (twice), etc., with no improvement before it came to us. When we tested the car, we noticed wildly fluctuation in the MAF readings, so we popped in a known good sensor, with no change in the readings. When we tested the MAF sensor wires for resistance, we found one wire had low, but measurable resistance. When we traced that wire, we found a repair done with a crimp connector and heat shrink tubing over it. We cut the repair out, soldered and heat shrink wrapped the new joint, and the MAF readings immediately became normal and steady. The car has run perfectly ever since. Crimp connectors are not always your friend...................
    1 point
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