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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Not particularly. Because the OBD II system is a federally mandated item, OEM's do not go out of their way to make them robust. Having said that, we have seen OBD II connection issues on several makes besides Porsche.
  2. No. Porsche only sold the bulbs and the complete light assemblies, no other components. If you cannot repair your lights, you may need to buy a used but serviceable replacement either off someone of from a breaker's yard.
  3. You can still find the parts, either new or used from a bone yard. Once you get all the part and have them installed, you need to have the system activated with a diagnostic computer.
  4. As checking the shaft for trueness requires fixtures, you need a decent machine shop that knows what you are looking for. I would refer you to LN as they also offer shaft chain gear pinnning services as well, which needs to be done at the same time. LN also has the adaptor you are looking for, which I think is part of their supplemental IMS tools kit. Ask Charles, he would know. As for oil feeds, in addition to the heat and dirt issues, you need to also consider that feeding pressurized oil into the shaft creates yet another problem: oil starvation. The shaft holds around 3/4 of a quart of oil when full, pulling precious volume away from the rest of the oiling system. This is particularly critical in track only cars as these engines already have significant oiling issues, even on the street. So systems like the DOF or the roller bearing systems that flood the tube from the oil pump end are actually exacerbating these oiling issues. On shafts that are not concentric, flooding the shaft with oil increases the load force exerted on the IMS bearing as well. Oiling the bearing from the flange end would allow you to plug the rest of the shaft behind the IMS bearing to stop oil entry, but this exact idea is part of the IMS Soloution patent, preventing others from using it as the idea is protected intellectual property. If you read the link to Ashai's rebuild thread I shared with you, you would clearly see the problem.
  5. Sorry Grant, but I cannot agree with your assessment of the DOF. The cylinder heads are both the hottest, and one of the dirtiest parts of the oiling system, which is one of the reasons so many people end up having lifter problems. On rebuilds of these engines, if you were to take the lifters out and heat them in a pan of something like Marvel Mystery oil, they start to purge themselves of tons of black crud that has accumulated. Ultra sonic cleaning of the heads during a rebuild shows even more crap coming out of every oil passage as well. So while diagrams may look cute, the reality is a totally different story, which is a major short coming with the DOF. As for your IMS bearing, are you absolutely sure it is an LN bearing? We have taken apart engines that were supposed to have LN bearings in them, only to find all steel bearings. As you are taking your engine apart, I would also have your shaft tested by a good machine shop for concentricity while you are having the chain gears pinned or welded in place to prevent slippage (another well known problem). We have also seen a lot of IMS shafts that do not rotate about their true center lines, resulting in constant wobble and the shaft literally beating the Hell out of the IMS bearing. No bearing can survive that.
  6. Welcome to RennTech Not sure what you are trying to get at, but the ignition switch is a simple DC voltage system, with the exception of the immobilizer system, which is digital data from an RFID system.
  7. They are not necessarily "burn marks" but often dirty Cosmoline like coatings common to these cars.
  8. With enough money, welding equipment, and time, any engine swap is possible. The larger question is "is the view worth the climb?" In this case it is obvious that the engine will fit, but you will also need a lot of the GTS vehicles electronics, exhaust system, cooling system, etc. to make this work. In the end, the transplant could end up costing you vastly more than the car would ever be worth, and as a "Frankenstein" vehicle, it would have a reduced resale value. You need to step back and do an unemotional review of what is necessary before diving into what could be a financial black hole...........
  9. Two comments: First, you need to get the actual codes when the car trips the MIL light. Without the actual codes, you are guessing at what to check out and/or replace. Secondly, your mechanic's comments are very telling, as they sound like someone who just wants to replace everything rather than do some diagnostics. Unfortunately, too many shops like to throw your wallet at a problem rather than take the time to do it correctly. You decidedly can test each component in a system, and quite often replacing or repair one item will fix the problem.
  10. I'd have to second Loren's comments; for a car of that age, it actually looks better than most.
  11. If you are referring to the charcoal canister, it is self regenerating and should last the life of the car.
  12. Dual Mass Flywheel. These cars use a dual mass unit that is also the torsional and harmonic dampener for the engine, and it has elastomeric components that do not take well to being oiled down. Once damaged, they have to be replaced, and cost about $1K.
  13. Glad you got it sorted. The front mount is a common source of the problem you were having and always one of the first things we look at.
  14. Possible seal leaks, but I would also watch the air vent holes on the bottom of the bell housing area near the flywheel; if you severely overfill one of these, you can end up with gear oil seeping out the input shaft housing and onto both your clutch and the DMF.
  15. Welcome to RennTech Life is not that simple. You will need special tooling designed for the purpose, and access to the factory service manual as the process runs nearly a dozen or so pages.
  16. See Loren's post above; you need to see a dealer or OPC.
  17. Welcome to RennTech. Loren has listed all of the probable causes above, additional testing for each fault is now required.
  18. Simple diagnostics, with an appropriate electrical test tool like a Power Probe, try manually activating each one.
  19. I would not leave used oil, regardless of the amount of use, in an engine for more than one year as acids and other contaminants will be quietly breaking it down while sitting. I would also make the oil change just before it is put into hibernation.
  20. Remove the CPS sensor connector, connect your multimeter to pin #1 and pin#2, at 68F it should read 0.8-1.0K ohms; then connect the multimeter to pin #1 and pin #3 and it should read infinite ohms; if it does not read correctly in either range, can the sensor and replace it.
  21. We have not had any failures after removing the seal, nor have we heard of any.
  22. A lot of videos seem convincing, but what you should be looking at is installed base and long term performance; anyone can produce a slick video, but they can't fake results. If memory serves, there is a LN preferred installer in Maryland, which is a lot closer to you. Check their installer listings: Preferred Installers As you are looking at a 2007 car, you cannot retrofit the IMS without an engine tear down (this applies to all 2005-2008 cars as well), so I would be looking to pull the rear seal. Any decent PPI would include an oil filter inspection, which should reveal ferrous metal if the IMS was on its way out. The exact number will vary from shop to shop, but you are in the appropriate range. You want to do the clutch components and a fresh RMS while you are in there, and it is also a great time to update the AOS as it is out in the open and a 15 min. job with the trans out, rather than a couple hours with the car assembled.
  23. Usually, K line related issues are an electrical connection type fault. It could be a harness connector or something on the line, like a controller, that is killing the communications. This is going to require obtaining a wiring diagram for the vehicle and then start checking each component and connection on the suspect line. This could require pulling the dash and other sections of the car apart.
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