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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. I don not believe there is a specific interval for changing the filter, but only if and when there are certain EVAP system related codes. In any case, part #997-201-501-00 is only about $30.
  2. Jake Raby (Flat Six Innovations in Cleveland, Georgia; about an hour and a half outside Atlanta) is one of, if not the pre-eminent builders of the M96/97 engine. Jake offers engines from in various output configurations. He also currently has about an eight month backlog of customer engines in his shop, which also says something about his engines.
  3. The lightest oil we put in any Porshe's is 10W-40, and it ain't a Mobil 1 product either.
  4. The best way to find an electrical drain it to put a multi-meter between the positive battery cable and the battery terminal, and set it on current (mA). Should read in the 40 - 60 mA range, if it is higher, start pulling the fuses one at a time until the draw suddenly drops. That circuit is the issue..........................
  5. You are getting a weak or non existent signal from the CPS on bank 2; possible wiring issue or a bad sensor.
  6. Not really; these things do not necessarily do a good job of getting all the oil out as they do not take into account what may be in the way of getting the hose to the bottom of the sump. There is a drain plug on the bottom of the sump for a simple reason..............
  7. The voltage regulator is common to Porsche, Audi, MB, and VW. VW usually has the lowest price for it.
  8. As I believe you are referring to the Porsche Sports Exhaust (PSE), yes I will fit on a 2.5L, but requires a hardware adapter kit because the early 2.5L setup was a little different. Any decent dealer parts department should be able to get it for you.
  9. Ouch! I’ve never cared for solid lightweight flywheels for other reasons, this just adds one more reason………..
  10. Byron, I’d first be dead certain that the sensor and wiring harness are working correctly before yanking the gearbox back out.
  11. As the crank position sensor reads from a shutter wheel behind the flywheel, and you have a new aftermarket flywheel, I'd start there. Perhaps you should contact the manufacturer.
  12. 1. Don't assume anything about a dealer; some are very good, some not so. We have seen cars just out of dealerships with all sorts of nonsense that was plain to see for anyone that looked, but apparently no one did. Even within a good dealer, there are less than adequate techs. 2. Get the .04 cap. 3. Unless you live in an equatorial rain forest, you windows should not be covered with condensate, frozen or otherwise. You may have a heater core issue, which is not that hard or time consuming to fix. 4. Find a good independent that is not on the other side of the planet. Independents, unlike dealers that automatically have a captive audience, live or die on their reputations.
  13. Any replacement engine supplied by Porsche in 2010 would have the very latest RMS design, so you are fine there. The IMS would also be their last version design, which still has some level of potential to fail. It is also the design that cannot be replaced without disassembling the engine as it is too large to fit through the opening in the rear of the cases. But then you should have also gotten an additional two year warranty on the new engine..........
  14. I'd have to go +1 with Loren on this; I'd be looking at the oil, and even if it looks OK, sending a sample of it out to an oil analysis lab to look for evidence of coolant intrusion. When coolant is disappearing, and it ain’t on the ground, the engine is either burning it off (head gasket or cylinder head) or it will be in the oil. I’d also be pulling the spark plugs as a cylinder seeping water with have one or more rather strange looking plugs, which would also show up in the cylinder if a bore scope is used………..
  15. Mike Focke has some good dismantlers on his website.
  16. Theoretically, CPS deviation value should be zero at an idle, unfortunately in the real world, it never is due to tolerances or wear on the components, and you always end up with a slight odd value. The big issue with checking the IMS condition using cam deviation values is that, at idle speed, the deviation value remains steady, and is not moving around (usually back and forth), indicating that the cams are moving back and forth, which can only mean bad news at the IMS. So the DME is seeing the deviation change in real time, not just during cranking. When you do see the deviation values moving back and forth at an idle, you will typically also see the actual values jumping around as well at just about any RPM, and this is particularly disconcerting when the engine transitions from increasing to decreasing RPM. On an engine in good condition and with a solid IMS, you will still see the slightly off zero CPS deviation values at an idle, but they will not change and will indicate a fairly constant value. When the VarioCam (or VarioCam +) kicks in at elevated RPM's, the deviation values should also remain fairly steady as the actual values change, but the actual values should also remain relatively steady at a given RPM as well. The differences between the indicated deviation values and the actual values are usually fairly close, but not always exactly the same.
  17. I have, and they do change with the engine running, that is how you test the VarioCam, you get values at idle and at higher RPM's. For example, on a 3.4 VarioCam, you set the Durametric for “actual values” and then select the cam position function, and you will see the values change starting at about 1,500 RPM and moving up to higher values up to around 5,000 RPM. There have been threads, with data, on this site and others on this exact topic…………… Here ya go: Live cam deviation values thread on Rennlist and a more detailed one: Cam deviation values thread on RennTech
  18. Both the Durametric (Pro) and the PIWIS can see the cam deviation values live (engine running). You can see the cam positions (in degrees) at idle and at RPM, which is a diagnostic for checking how well (or if) the VarioCam is working.
  19. I'd doubt that they have any experience with reading the cams and learning anything from it. Yes, we would look at both RPM rise and fall as the cams tend to get pretty erratic as the engine transitions, indicating that something that shouldn't be is moving. But, as I mentioned to another poster, this can also result from other issues as well, so further investigation is required if you encounter it. You should also be aware that by the time the engine gets to this state, it is literally "on the edge" of failure, and can go at any time. I also doubt that the dealer is going to do anything with the IMS unless there is significant metal in the oil and filter. While it may sound like heresy, the dealer's tech's are simply not trained and/or equipped to work on the internal assembly of this engine; so they just replace the entire engine when they encounter a bad IMS. From their perspective, it just makes more economic sense to pull the engine and replace it (at last count, a full set of just the special tools required to scratch assemble one of these engines was over $10,000, and these tools have no other use. Just the OEM tool to replace your RMS with the latest version is $464 alone.). As this has been dealer practice since the M96/97 was introduced, I would doubt that very few, if any, of their staff could even do it if they wanted to, and also explains why quality aftermarket engine builders are expensive. Lastly, and again sounding somewhat like a heretic, a lot of dealers are still in denial about IMS failures. After multiple magazine articles on the subject, many dealers still claim that the bearing cannot be changed on the pre '06 engines without splitting the cases, which is anything but true. While there are some dealers that are actually installing LN upgrade kits, many are not, and stick to trying to sell new engines..............
  20. Both. Just be aware that strange or unexpected readings can be an indication of an IMS coming unglued, but they can also result from other issues as well, such as the VarioCam unit itself going south, very bad tensioners, or severely worn chain guide paddles. If I saw strange values, I would pull the oil and filter, looking for granular ferrous metal, a sure sign of looming failure. If I found nothing in the oil, I’d start looking at the other potential candidates. One of the most insidious factors with the IMS is that it very often gives no warning of any kind.
  21. Usually, there is really nothing physical to see. When the IMS starts to go south, the fastest way to catch it is to look at the VarioCam readings on a PIWIS or Durametric system, which will see the wobble in the bearing as swings in the cam "allocation". Unfortunately, all too often, there is no prior "announcement", and the unit catastrophically fails, taking the engine with it. Major point is that you would be replacing the OEM bearing, hopefully before it even starts to fail, with the LN Engineering replacement unit which uses much better components.
  22. Have the car scanned for codes (Durametric or PIWIS only), report back on what you find.........
  23. First, and perhaps most importantly, let's please not turn this into a "Brand X vs. Brand Y" endless argument, and not divert the thread even further…….. Based upon UoA's collected over many years, conversations with a few the leading Porsche aftermarket engineering development firms, and a few of the leading Porsche M96/97engine builders; we came to the conclusion that sole reason for "recommending/approving" 0W-anything oils has more to do with CAFÉ mileage ratings than protecting the rotating assemblies' in these engines. Porsche is not the only ones to move in this direction, and in several cases (BMW and Toyota, for example) companies have ended up regretting it and moving back to heavier "W" weight oils when warranty engine replacements became excessively high, or the associated public relations became too negative. Oils with very thin "W" weights simply do not hold up to high shear or high temperature very well or for very long, and need to be changed more frequently rather than at the OEM recommended intervals. UoA's have shown that one of the most advertised brands of "full synthetic" 0W-40 was sheared down to the point It no longer could remotely be considered a "0W-40" product (technically known as “having fallen out of grade”) in only a couple thousand miles in something as mundane as a Cadillac. Combine that with the fact that not that long ago, 10W oils were often the recommended weights for use in very cold (near arctic) climates, the rational for using such thin oils in more temperate environs becomes even more suspect. So we began testing several different brands and weights of oils, including some very hard to obtain and/or expensive products, eventually settling on a readily available full synthetic 10W-40 product for use in these engines. Ongoing UoA's, combined with the occasional tear down, have shown that the weight combination works very well from an engine preservation standpoint. For extreme climatic conditions (truly arctic), we have also found that a 5W-40 synthetic also works very well, but requires more frequent changes as it will begin to shear down more quickly than its 10W-40 cousin. And before someone comments on the ability of 10W-40 weight oil to circulate on cold start; at 6:30AM this morning, the air temperature was 3F outside my home. My personal car, which sat outside last night with 10W-40 synthetic in it, turned right over and had nearly full oil pressure when the engine fired. You need to ask yourself, how thin does it really need to be?
  24. There is very little rhyme or reason as to why or when the RMS is going to leak in these cars. Some seem to go on forever with the factory seal, others start to leak. How much the car is driven, or even how it is driven, does not seem to matter. The only single “factoid” we have been able to identify as correlating to RMS leaks is oil weight; those using 0W-40 oils suffer more leaks than those using 10W-40 oils. We have also noted cars with very slight RMS leaks using 0W-40 oil stopped leaking when switched to 10W-40 oil; but that does not work on cars with severely leaking RMS…………
  25. To date, we have never seen a repaired tank that worked, they always start to leak again. And, as it is nearly impossible to repair the tank in place, while you have it out, just throw it away and put in the newer one with thicker walls, it will not only solve your issues, it just might save your sanity as well.................
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