Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,566
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    185

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Retrofitting the lights is not that big an issue, but retrofitting the self-leveling feature is a bit of a nightmare, as it requires both sensors at the front and rear suspension, a wiring harness that runs the length of the car, and getting the DME to accept its existence. Not for the faint of heart or pocketbook….
  2. One way to "speed up" the drying process is to remove the unit's cover and rinse it out with dry alcohol (medicinal rather than consumption type), then let it air out. Castletown Pale Ale, please.............. :cheers:
  3. This is a common problem with cars the get water under the seats. Under the seat is the electronic control module for the central locking system, which shorts out when it gets wet. Fortunately, it can be removed, opened up and dried out, sometimes requiring a new fuse that is in the module itself. Once dry and reinstalled, they typically go back to working fine. Do a search on this topic, it has been covered extensively with pictures more than once.
  4. As just about everything else is different about the Metzger designed Tubo engine, I am not surprised these bolts are as well. There is realtively few parts that cross over between the the turbo and the M96/97 engines. You should also consider the possiblity of using a thread insert (HeliCoil and Time-Sert both come to mind) to repair the head in place.
  5. Unfortunately, they are no longer printed, but from time to time, you will see the service manual sets that covered internal engine work for the earlier cars come up for sale. Sunset Porsche had them available at reasonable prices for a while, you may want to contact them to see if they know of a source.
  6. It would help to get the car scanned for related codes, but I always go back to the last thing you were working on when this happens; it is rarely just a coincidence.
  7. We have done a lot of 986 and 996 cars using the Porsche kits, the kit was a cheap and a quick permanent fix for an otherwise annoying problem.
  8. Be very careful introducing compressed air into the cooling system, it is very easy to considerably exceed it design operating pressures (less than 20 PSIG) and cause a leak in something expensive and difficult to get at............
  9. As this comes up from time to time, here is an article with the entire wiring color codes (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/88-ELEC-Radio_Install/88-ELEC-Radio_Install.htm ) as well as the connector color and pin codes. The wire that keeps power to the radio to retain the presets is red/black (thick) and is in the black connector.
  10. Definitely not replaceable. While only some of the 2005’s had the non-serviceable IMS bearing, all 2006-2008 cars or crate motors did. Sorry.
  11. Probably the biggest risk issue is that many of the 05's carried the oversized "final solution" IMS bearing, which means that an upgrade to the LN style bearing requires total engine teardown. There is also no known way to identify which cars have this bearing and which ones do not; you have to take off the flywheel and look to see if the center bolt is 22MM, which indicates the oversized annd non serviceable bearing.
  12. It could be the shifter, but I would also be looking at where the cables attach to the trans, they often come loose there.
  13. They dedicate a couple pages with color photos, basic steps, and torque specs on the subject (48-10 and 48-11)
  14. If you are just changing calipers, no plug is needed as long as the lines are not left open. But in any case, you are still going to need a fitting wrench to get the caliper apart.
  15. We are at "cross terms" here, the line going to the caliper is a "flex" line, the "hard" lines are attached the chassis. The caliper flex lines look like this: The hard line connection you can see if the photo I provided, and looks like this up close: On some cars, the flex line goes direct to the caliper, on others there is a short section of hard line at the caliper that is connected to a flex line that runs up to the main hard line. I have to assume that is what you are referring to....
  16. The hard lines do not go directly to the calipers, they go first to a flex line between the hard line and the caliper so the unit can move. The hard line/ flex line connections is seen about mid frame on the left of this photo: We regularly get cars flat bedded in because someone left the line open too long and got air back up into the system far enough to cause the system to go nuts. If you disconnect the hard line for any length of time, it needs to be capped or plugged. Exactly what are you trying to do?
  17. First of all, you should be using a "fitting wrench" when working on these as they are designed to break the coupling without damaging the hard line fittings: These wrenches have a larger gripping surface on the fitting flats, so the fittings can be undone or tightened without damage. A metric set is well worth the nominal investment. Secondly, if you are going to remove the flex lines, you need to have a cap of some sort to put on the hardline end to keep the brake fluid from draining out of the system while you are working, A simple short section of hose with a plug of some sort in one end will do fine. If you do not cap or plug your hydraulic lines while working on the calipers, and enough fluid drains out, you could end up needing cycle the ABS/PSM pump while bleeding the system and that mandates either a PIWIS or Durametric system to do it.
  18. Throw out bearings can and do go bad, but it is not a common failure item. Many times, noises that were thought to be throw out bearings turn out to be from other sources.
  19. I think you are referring to the PSM (not PCM) light; and , yes, sometimes a faulty brake switch can cause this issue. It can also be voltage related (low charging rate/weak battery).
  20. Hate to sound obvious, but when something like this happens, you always go back to the work that was just completed first. Get the code read, you may simply have a poorly connected coil, or a loose hose on one of the intake areas and are leaking boost.
  21. You need to be careful with the "pickle fork" method as some can actually damage the alloy carrier as well as the rubber boot on the tire rod end. Once the carrier is damaged, there is no going back, you will need a new one. One trick we use is to always coat the new tie rod end shaft with a very thin layer of anti-seize compound, makes future extractions a bit easier.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.