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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    OK, here's your problem: The base car and S car use two different diameter hard cooling pipes that lead to the forward radiators. At one time, Porsche's "kit" for upgrading the base car to carry the center radiator had special molded hoses that corrected for this anomaly. Unfortunately, those hoses have totally disappeared and now all you can get are the standard "S" hoses which are too big. This has been causing folks to start soldering fittings together to try and make a leak tight fit, or spending a lot of time and money to replace the hard pipes. Fortunately, somebody had come up with a neat solution that is reasonably priced. A Porsche shop called Precision Chassis Works had machined up adaptors that either you can have TIG welded to your pipes, or you can send them your pipes and they will redo them, or they will sell you hard pipes with the adaptors already welded in. All for about $100 (with the exchange for your pipes). http://www.precision...dification.html Ultra clean installed, never leak.
  2. JFP in PA
    2002 was the "official" last year. As with most things Porsche, some had them in 2002, some did not............
  3. JFP in PA
    P0455 is the "large vacuum leak" code for the EVAP system; usual suspect is the gas cap..................
  4. JFP in PA
    Yes, unless he has a replacement engine. 2002 was the last year for the tubes, 2003's did not removable tubes.
  5. JFP in PA
    To change the plugs, and pull, inspect, and re-o-ring the plug tubes (only if they show signs of leakage and they need it) should take a couple hours of shop time plus parts. Actual cash value will depend upon the shop's prevailing hourly rate and local parts pricing. I would also have the coil packs checked out for cracking or deterioration due to their age, any questionable ones should be replaced.
  6. JFP in PA
    We do this for a living so you can imagine how many plugs we change in a year; we use anti seize on all sparkplugs, torque all plugs, and have never had one back out. That really is an "urban legend"................as are claims that your wheels will fall off if you use it on your wheel lugs, which we also do...............
  7. JFP in PA
    The valve at the engine end is more of a check valve than an operational valve (it has no electrical connections); I think you need to look more closely at the EVAP canister end. One thing you can do is hook the car up to a PIWIS or Durametric system and cycle the various valves at the canister end to make sure they are functioning. Have you also checked the seal on the gas cap? They do fail and cause noise as well.
  8. JFP in PA
    Yikes!.............
  9. JFP in PA
    He is talking about the gas filler cap, not the oil cap, which is an EVAP system related issue, which is usually a vacuum leak and why he is seeing stumbling issues when driving.
  10. JFP in PA
    K&N is really no better than the Wix unit, but it is a Hell of a lot more expensive. Mahle is the OEM unit, although some cars have come from the factory with Mann filters in them as well.
  11. JFP in PA
    This is exactly why it is a very good practice to put a small amount of anti seize on the plugs before torquing them in, along with a small amount of dielectric grease on the coil boot.. We have had cars come back for plug service more than eight years after we replaced them, and the old plugs came right out with no drama. A lot of people like to say that using anti seize on the plugs in these engines is not called for, but once you see the grief a seized or galled plug causes, the silver paste suddenly becomes cheap insurance. We have never had a coated plug cause a problem, regardless of age or mileage..........
  12. JFP in PA
    Some words cannot possibly be used in the same sentence; "cheap rebuild" and "Porsche" is one example.........
  13. JFP in PA
    We see this type of variation all the time; you are in spec and fine.
  14. JFP in PA
    You should never, repeat never, use a pump with a metal impeller in the M96/97 engine. When the bearing goes, and it will, the metal impeller can chew the Hell out of the engine case, possibly ruining it. Stay with the OEM pumps with composite impellers only...............
  15. JFP in PA
    Spend the $36 and buy the Sir 9025 set, you will be able to fix this problem, as well as any other similar issue on any car you will ever own in the future...............
  16. JFP in PA
    To relplace the front seals (converter snout and front pump) on a Tip, you need at least three special tools, which are the same ones used on VW & Audi.
  17. JFP in PA
    If memory serves, a 2001 Boxster will not have any OBC displays until some type of controling switch (e.g.: the fourth stalk or a momentary contact rocker switch) is installed and operational. The Durametric problems sounds like a glitch.
  18. JFP in PA
    And they are usually some strange color hue, which is weird because they typically cannot be seen..........
  19. JFP in PA
    I am yet to see any definitive dyno data from a reputable source that shows any after market filter consistently makes meaningfully more HP or torque. Most of what you find is regurgitated marketing hype from one or more manufacturers, which is a lot like the whopping gains some exhaust system and header manufacturer's claim.
  20. JFP in PA
    We always are concerned about third party DME re flashes potentially causing some type of harm to the DME itself (read expensive to replace), or causing loss of warranty (a real issue) on new cars. This device perplexes me even more because it attaches to the IAT sensor via two wires and supposedly works its magic reprogramming from there rather than the more conventional route. Weird……
  21. JFP in PA
    Without reading the codes, anything would be a wild guess...................
  22. JFP in PA
    I would also be one for looking very closely at the engine mounts............
  23. JFP in PA
    First, I would not switch gear oils; this subject has been covered many times and the OEM fill is still the best route. Besides, if the gear box had a problem like a bad bearing or the like, new oil is not going to fix it. It sounds like you have an engine/drive line vibration that is showing up in the shifter. Problem is that you need to try to spot the source either by having someone else drive the car while you crawl around and try to find it, or run the car on a dyno and look for it. Sometimes these annoying problems are difficult to find and can chew up a lot of shop time in the process simply because there are so many possible candidates..............
  24. JFP in PA
    I have to believe that the actual source of the vibration is not the shifter itself as the shifter is bolted to the floor and not solidly attached to anything else. I'm afraid you are in for an "Easter Egg Hunt" to find this one..............
  25. JFP in PA
    +1 on this, you really do not want to get involved with CAN-BUS headaches...................
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