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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. If you are sure your fuel pump relay is good, and the pump turns on when jumpered, I am back to the immobilizer, which shuts the fuel and ignition off if it fails to see engine rotation. Do a search here for checking the CPS, there are a couple of simple resistance test you can run. At room temp the resistance between terminal 1 and 2 should be between 800 and 1000 ohms according to Porsche diagnostic manual. The full diagnostic should call for removing the DME and check the continuity between pin 1 of sensor and pin 32 of DME, then pin 2 of sensor and pin 46 of the DME. Also check resistance between pins 1&3, then 2&3, of the sensor. They should read infinity. If those check out, replace the sensor.
  2. Put the immobilizer back into the car and try cranking it while measuring the fuel pressure at the Schrader valve on the fuel rail, and tell us what the fuel pressure reads.
  3. Welcome to RennTech One of the most common hot start related issues is the crank position sensor or CPS. Located on the side of the bell housing, it is a Hall type sensor that tends to become heat sensitive as it ages.
  4. Sometimes the easiest answer is also the correct one. Glad you got it sort, now go drive it like you stole it!
  5. First of all, over filling these cars, regardless of the IMS bearing, is a bad idea. When the system is over filled, you only know it is over, but not by how much. It could be 1/2 quart, or three quarts, the display will say the same thing. With IMS bearings capable of exterior lubrication, such as the LN ceramic hybrid, do so using the oil mist inside the rear case area; the level of he oil is irrelevant to this process. What is actually more important to the IMS is how fresh the oil is and how much ZDDP it contains. A couple on notes in passing: The factory IMS bearing does not lubricate properly regardless of the oil level as it is not designed to allow outside oil in, so again the oil level is irrelevant. Second, you should not put your car away for the winter with used oil in it. Used oil typically carries both fuel and water in it, which accelerates the oil break down and can even lead to internal componet corrosion. Put it away with fresh oil in it.
  6. No, you have to have the original tag to program the system.
  7. The lack of an immobilizer signal to the DME shuts off multiple circuits to prevent the car from starting.
  8. An additional thought: There is a small glass fuse in the box under the seat, have your guy check it as if it was blown, the box is dead.
  9. Works this way: When you insert your key into the ignition, a pill in the key is read by the box under the seat, which then sends a code to the DME, allowing the car to start. If someone tried to hot wire the car, or use a bogus key, no pill, no read, no signal to the DME, car won't fire.
  10. That maybe, but the fault codes say it is the central locking system, you need to figure out what was done during the radio install that upset it. It would also be helpful if you listed the "P" codes as well.
  11. That looks like your central locking/alarm computer is malfunctioning and keeping the car from starting (thinks you are stealing it). Has this key worked in the past? If it has, you need to start looking at the control unit under the driver's seat to see if it is wet, has become disconnected, or has its internal fuse blown.
  12. You have to stay objective; if something looks questionable, it probably is and is not the only thing that is.
  13. P1372 - valve lift control, bank 1
  14. I would try and grab as much data as possible, as at this juncture you don't really know what you are looking for. I would, however, pay particular attention to the fuel data.
  15. Quite often, the hardest part of buying a car is not getting emotionally attached to it, but stepping back and looking at it in the hard light of reality. I'm sure there is another one out there that has been lovingly cared for and just waiting for you to find it.
  16. Run, do not walk away from that car. We see this all the time: Deferred maintenance. If he did not care to maintain the car, what else did he ignore.........................
  17. Only way to know that is to connect a Porsche specific scan tool to the car and collect real time data.
  18. I am not aware of that happening.
  19. Welcome to RennTech P0335 and 0336 are cam and crankshaft position sensor issues, sensors are either out or wiring to them is questionable. P1266 is for your "drive by wire" system, which is also reading out of range, which can also be related to the sensor issues.
  20. Welcome to the world of 911 service. If you think yours is bad, take a look under a 996 turbo.................
  21. Most likely, you have burned out one or more circuits by doing this. I would test the alternator for output, but you have probably either smoked the voltage regulator or a diode or two, which will require replacement. The PSM is probably a ghost code due to the alternator issue. You may have also cooked other circuits that have not showed up yet, so be prepared.
  22. $36 a plug is more than a bit steep. Check the same part number on board sponsor Sunset Porsche's parts website, I'll bet it is significantly better..............
  23. Actually, it is pretty high based upon experience. I would pull the coils and look for small cracks, the give away sign that the coils are on their way out.
  24. You can read the alternator output with a digital multimeter, but the battery should be load tested.
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