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DBJoe996

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Everything posted by DBJoe996

  1. Spare tire and jack secure in the frunk? Battery hold down secure?
  2. Have you "re-taught" the window upper/lower limits? Lower window and continue to hold the down button for 10 seconds, then raise the window and continue to hold the up button for 10 seconds. If that doesn't fix it, then it is one of the microswitches.
  3. I'm going to ask some stupid questions....in your original post you said " I picked up a 996 a few months back, not running. It will start and runs for 10-15 seconds and sounds perfect, after that the idle drops and it stumbles around 500-600 RPM until it eventually stalls." You suspect that the MAF is responsible and we have been running down that rabbit hole. These things make an engine run - fuel, air and spark. You also said it is running "pig rich". I am wondering if it is something more fuel related than air related. Does the car have fresh gas in it? Has the fuel filter been replaced? What about the fuel pressure regulator? Have you cleaned the Idle Control Valve? When was the last time the plugs were pulled and checked? How are the coil packs looking? You also said it does not rev but the throttle plate is moving. Have you checked the throttle position sensor and if it is plugged in correctly? It sure seems a strange set of conditions. I would expand your search to some other things. Just throwing some other things to check into the mix, and just trying to help. Once you get your DME back, use the Durametic and go to Actual Valves and see if the Throttle Position sensor is returning values. Is it throwing any codes at all? A bad TPS can wreak havoc on idle and running. I sure wish Ahsai would weigh in again...he is far more knowledgeable than I am.
  4. When doing my AOS replacement I dropped one of the manifold bolts. Took 2 days to find it. Lots of light, cell phone and a selfie stick to run it all the way back there to take videos of everything. Found it underneath the fuel rail. Good luck!
  5. I do hope you get it sorted. Most of the knowledgeable people on here can help with stock setups, but very few have experience with superchargers and custom tuning. There are so many variables with a stock engine, much less one that has what you have. I would suggest keeping it simple and sticking with the basics. Checking the reference voltage is a very good first start. I was wondering, if the tuner got the car to run right perfectly for years, is there any way to get the car back to him? Maybe he could get it sorted out.
  6. Well, that explains a lot. So you had the custom tune for the VF super charger kit, and then reverted to the stock tune w/stock MAF housing and with modified injectors and larger MAF housing....and you are wondering why the timing is retarded? This is not a simple MAF sensor problem. Too many variables. Thought we were talking about a stock engine and so on. I hope your tuner knows what he is doing.
  7. Here is what I would do. Undo the battery negative lead for an hour to reset the DME. Disconnect the MAF sensor and leave it disconnected. The engine doesn't really need the MAF for idle up to about 4,000 RPM. Connect up the battery and fire it up and see what happens. At least that way you can take something off the list. Did you replace the MAF with a brand new Bosch unit specific for your car? Is it installed the correct way? Makes a huge difference.
  8. It will be there laying on the sump plate when you drop it. Oil filler tube is just a wide mouth opening to the sump, so the bolt just dropped straight down the hole into the sump. I have heard that after applying the new sealant and the sump plate is reinstalled, wait 24 hours for the sealant to cure before adding fresh oil. Also a good time to inspect whatever else is in the sump (chunks of tensioner rails, etc.) and check the oil pickup screen for debris.
  9. Only slightly a problem but will require you to drop your oil sump plate. It should be right there. Make sure you have the correct sealant to reinstall.
  10. Well, you came to RennTech and posted, but you gave us no clue what is wrong, therefore you are not going to get much help. What is or is not happening? What sort of troubleshooting have you done? Did you check the fuses, switch, hydraulic cylinder levels, microswitches? Is anything else not working correctly? Do you get my drift? Does it need to be reset by the Porsche dealer? Is there a CEL or any codes? Probably your best bet is to get it to a Porsche dealer and have them run a diagnostic. They have specialized software that will tell you what is exactly wrong.
  11. Almost every auto parts store has an OBDII reader handy and will read your codes and reset the CEL for free. What makes you think your cats are bad? What error codes are you getting? Could it be a bad O2 sensor instead? Suggestion - get the codes and post them up. If the CEL is bothersome, a $50 OBDII reader from AutoZone will clear the codes and reset the CEL. I have one and clear the codes for my SAI (secondary air injection) on occasion because I'm frankly too lazy to go in there and replace all that stuff. I'll do it the next time I'm in for a starter replacement or AOS job, which hopefully will be a long time since I've already done that a few years back.
  12. Maybe you can find one here...I didn't bother to search. http://www.wiringspecialties.com/mafsconnectors.html
  13. The codes are telling you exactly what is wrong - 1 and 3 misfires. You can push the rubber boot up the wiring harness on the coils and make sure they are plugged in correctly. They must firmly click into place and be fully seated in the coil connector.
  14. Not understanding what you are saying. Check fuse D1 again, 30 AMP fuse. If swapping the connectors on the switches did not work, then possibly the passenger side window motor is bad, particularly if the fuse is blown again. You will need to remove the door card and check it. You could "jump" it with a direct 12V wire from the battery to see if it operates. Check for any corrosion and proper ground with a multi-meter. You could have 2 problems, one a bad motor and one a bad switch. You need to eliminate one of those by testing. Also, there are microswitches on the window operation that tell it when it is at the bottom or top. You'll have to check those as well. Pelican Parts Door card removal - http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/76-BODY-Door_Panel_Removal/76-BODY-Door_Panel_Removal.htm
  15. Just thought to throw something in here. There are 2 factors to consider when choosing a battery. Cold cranking amps and reserve capacity. Usually the more CCA's the more reserve capacity. CCA applies when it is cold and you need the amps to start. Reserve capacity is what you need to keep the electrical system up to par with load on the system. Think of it this way, the reserve capacity helps balance the electrical load. Say you get an inexpensive battery without much reserve, then you are in stop and go traffic, AC on high, both radiator fans running at high speed, lights on, windshield wipers running, maybe even the engine compartment fan starts running, radio on and so on, you get it, the alternator is going to barely supply all the amperage draw and the battery helps balance out the demand. So don't go cheap on your battery. Get the best battery you can afford. And get an AGM battery. Well worth it.
  16. I meant golf tees in the soft hose that one would attach to the hard line. Sorry for the misstatement. Agree a screw would work as well.
  17. In short, my understanding is no. At least not an official one. What you can do is order a COA from PCA with your VIN number and it will give you all of the options codes for the car...as built. https://www.pca.org/
  18. Hey Ahsai! So I was going by the parts listing...but...you got me to thinking so I crawled under the dash and looked. I have cruise control and I can see only one switch on the brake pedal. Go figure. 99 C2 So I think in our cars the cruise control detects the brake application from the single brake lamp switch, which also explains why when the bulbs are burned out the cruise control doesn't work..
  19. There are two switches on the brake pedal. One is for the brake lights, the other for the cruise control. Make sure you are working/replacing the right one. See here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=702-00
  20. A simple test of what Ahsai said is to leave the car overnight so it is stone cold, then place you hand on alternator. If it is warm/hot, the diodes on the voltage regulator on the back of the alternator are fried. You can replace just the voltage regulator.
  21. Most auto parts stores will read the code(s) for you for free. Any simple handheld OBDII reader will give you the codes. I have one I got from Autozone for $40. For more detailed diagnostic help nothing beats Durametric. It is worth the cost. I have it and it works perfectly on my 99 C2. http://www.durametric.com/buyus.aspx
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