Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Dharn55

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    845

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Dharn55

  1. Dharn55
    Vertex once sent me the wrong part when I ordered a pulse sender, but they took it back right away. As for headers the will usually give you more power at higher rpm's but less at the low end.
  2. Dharn55
    Logray is right, The long screw/bolt tool is specific to the cam advance mechanism on a VarioCam engine and is not required in a VarioCamPlus engine. However you will still need the exterior hold down tools prior to removing the cam covers (which hold the cams in place) and the other hold downs for when the covers are off. Do you have the manual. It explains this and provides illustration. Let me know if you need this.
  3. Dharn55
    This happened to me a while back when I dropped my engine. I replaced the battery, then the starter, still had the problem. Then I removed the ground strap, cleaned the connection surfaces and the reinstalled the ground strap, problem was gone and never returned.
  4. Dharn55
    You can go the speed you want and click the lever once to lock in that speed, or slow down with the brakes to a speed, the brakes turn off the CC, then click the lever once to lock in the speed. But if you want to reduce or increase speed without the brakes or the gas peddle you can also do it one click t a time or by holding the lever.
  5. Dharn55
    Pushing down on the lever reduces the speed. One mph for each click, or you can hold it down until you reach the speed you want. Pushing forward on the lever increases the speed one mph for reac click or again hold it until you reach the speed you want, or just click it once if you are at the speed you want.
  6. Dharn55
    Only 51,000 miles and you are thinking of rebuilding the engine? You should be able to get two or three times that mileage on the engine without a rebuild.
  7. Dharn55
    No I have never gone back in to fix this as it really involves dropping the engine. I did get the updated Durametric with the latest software and will check it again one of these days. If I drop the engine to check the timing I am going to do the LN IMS upgrade too. I also bought a tool set with the cam timing tool and should try to check the timing with this before dropping the engine. With the tool I should be able to see if the cams are off by one tooth on the chain. Just have not had the time to do it. I do have almost 20,000 miles on the engine since the intermix/cracked head fix and the car is running strong. It seems it would not run so well if the cam timing is really that far off, may just be the tab.
  8. Dharn55
    There are three of them on eBay now with starting prices of $20, $99 and $349. I would not count on getting one at the low price. I have one from a 3.8S that I will sell for $200, assume about $25 for shipping. It does not weigh much but they are pretty big.
  9. Dharn55
    $376 at Porsheoemparts.com (Sonnen Porsche) which is usually about the same as Sunset and Suncoast. Kind of a pain to get it out. Drain oil and coolant, take out the motor mount bracket, take out the chain tensioner for the 4-6 cylinders which drives off that end of the IMS (maybe lock the cams), etc. The oil pump drives off off that end of the IMS. Actually the IMS rides in this housing. I have an extra pump and can take some pictures of it. I would also sell it if you want it. It came off my car at about 50,000 miles when I did the cracked head fix. I thought I had a problem with the pump but I had installed the scavenger pumps reversed which was the real cause of the oil pressure problem. I would also recommend that you install the LN engineering billet oil pump drive while you are in there. Stronger than the OEM part.
  10. Dharn55
    If you have the door speakers than you have either the Hi-Fi option or the Bose option. With the Hi-Fi option the doors are sub-woofers and only get the low frequency signals not the mid and high frequency signals for the coaxial speakers you are looking at. Putting the coaxial s into the doors would be a big mistake, you need small enclosure subs for the doors. Not sure if this is the same for the Bose option. I did you some mids for a period in the doors of my car, but they did not do a good job with the low frequency signals.
  11. Dharn55
    If the car won't turn over I don't think it is the immobilizer. This prevents it from starting but not from turning over. May just be a failed starter motor.
  12. Dharn55
    If it the OEM holder just take the plate off and there are two screws that are into expansion blocks/connectors. Just remote the screws and the blocks should pop off. The go to bumperplugs.com and get the filler plugs color matched plugs for the holes.
  13. Dharn55
    Valley996 PM me with your email address and I will send you a PDF file with the wiring diagrams for a '99. The file is about 795KB.
  14. Dharn55
    The change over is really only cosmetic, no real functional difference. There is one difference on the 3.8 box, it has a vacuum operated flap that the 996 3.4 does not. I know this because I have a 3.8 box that I bought a couple of years ago still sitting in my work room (along with several other mods I have not gotten around to). I am still trying to decide whether to have this flap fix open or closed for the install. On a 3.8 there must be a change over switch controlled by the ECU.
  15. Dharn55
    Not sure how to remove the shift knob on a tip never having done so and certainly the B&M link does not address this.
  16. Dharn55
    Here you go: http://bmracing.com/wp-bnmcont/uploads/45135.pdf
  17. Dharn55
    Not the valve guides, which are metal, but the chain advance tensioner rails that are brown plastic. At 98k these probably have quite a bit of wear. Any engine that has not had the pan dropped will usually have some non-ferrous metals in the pan. What you replaced in the pan were the swirl pots,Nelson referred to as AOS sometimes, but these seldom go bad. It is the large AOS on the too of the engine, drivers side toward the front, that often goes bad.bif you are doing te IMS bearing upgrade then with the trans out it s pretty easy to get at the AOS so do it while you are in there, only about a $125 part. Don't be surprised if you need a new clutch while you are in there. With 996's 98k is a lot for a clutch. Cost is not too bad if you don't need a new flywheel. Also consider the three chain tensioners if you are getting clatter on start up. You will have them out to change the bearing. Less than $300 to buy all three.
  18. Dharn55
    The electric hood and trunk release was not available in 2000 (or at least not stock). A previous owner probably replaced the remote key head with one from a later year that had two functions. There is a lighter retrofit kit available that changes the lighter from the European size to the IS size, about $20. Oh, and did I say that no one will believe you have the car without some pictures! Enjoy!!!
  19. Dharn55
    Sonnen Porsche (Porscheoemparts.com) has the kit for $90.48. Described as a wiring repair kit for the ABS and brakes on the front. Kudos to Loren for his knowledge of these cars!
  20. Dharn55
    Has the coolant on your '99 ever been replaced? If not this is the time to do it. Don't believe the "lifetime coolant" claim.
  21. Dharn55
    There are a couple of parts involved here. What year and model is your car? There is an ABS speed sensor that plugs into the wheel carrier and has a wire that goes to a connector that also accept the brake sensor wire. Is it the insulation on this wire that has failed? Then there is a wire/harness that has the connector that accepts the connectors from the ABS speed sensor and the brake pad sensor and goes through the wheel well to the main wiring harness. Give me some direction and I might be able to help you.
  22. Dharn55
    Here's my winter regimen. Change oil and filter, wash and wax, put on hard top, put on winter wheels and tires, then drive the heck out of it. Porsches are car, they are made to be driven and work great in the cold and snow with the right tires. What a waste to put one away for months.
  23. Dharn55
    Remember that the function of the scavenger pumps is to take oil from the heads and return it to the sump. This is also done by gravitational flow. This should have no specific effect on the lifters.
  24. Dharn55
    Do you have a 3.4 or 3.6 engine? Are you talking about the 1-3 scavenger oil pump? I can tell you that back in 2009 when I was in the process of fixing my intermix I had my engine in and out several times. During one of the drops/cam cover/cam removals I put both scavenger pumps in reversed. I had on-going low and erratic oil pressure problems that I could not figure out. I even replaced the main oil pump, still had erratic pressure problems. I finally ordered new scavenger pumps. When I went to install them I found out that I had reversed the pumps. I changed the old pumps to the proper orientation (ended up returning the new pumps) and the problem was gone. I am guessing that I put on a couple of thousand miles with them reversed. If you do some searches here you will find some posts on the oil pressure problems I was having. In any case I have almost 20,000 miles since then and the engine is running strong. I did replace the lifters, but I think that was before the pump reversal. If you have a tapping from a lifter you may need to replace it. And if you are replacing one you may want to do all of them. Does the tapping go away after the car warms up?
  25. Dharn55
    Here is a link to Becker America that has what you are looking for. You will have to give up the remote cd changer though . http://www.beckerautosound.com/Porsche/aux_input_CR_CDR%20220.html
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.