Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
By Tj 27
I have a 2009 957 3.6l v6 Cayenne. The battery was dead a few days ago so I replaced it. It now starts up just as it should but when run a diagnostic it says the alternator voltage is high reading 14.72. I’m assuming I need to replace the alternator to remedy this. I can’t find any information about replacing the alternator. Has anyone attempted this? It looks like it might be straightforward but my concern is whether or not the intake manifold has to be removed in order to get clear access. If anyone has any insight on this I would greatly appreciate it.
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the seat on a 2008/957 Cayenne which they can let me have?
I’m trying to chase a fault where the passenger seat will motor up and down and the backrest will adjust forward and aft, but there is no response from the controls to move the seat unit forwards and backwards, or the four-way lumber support control.
Thanks in anticipation...
Hi everyone. My 2006 Boxster S suddenly started making a squealing noise. Noise goes away at higher RPM, only to come back at lower RPM and at idle. Not related to gear or clutching at all. Noise seems loudest at the rear of the car; I can hardly hear it inside with the windows closed. Is this a serpentine belt issue? Or the bearing of some engine accessory? I have 50,000 miles, and have already changed the serpentine belt once, around 4-5 years ago, just due to age of the car. I have not yet had the time to open up the engine compartment to look further. If it's a belt, then I would expect more noise from inside the cabin, would I not? I have attached a recording indicating the squeal going away when I rev the engine.
Recently I replace the Variocam Ramps on my 2002 boxster S.
Reassembly went well but I have a timing problem for the cams afterwards, trying to figure out the fix.
Bank one at Idle actual cam angle is about 6, deviation is blank.
Once the car warms up to 180, the actual angle goes to close to zero, and the deviation is about 5 to 6.
Bank 2 is as you would expect, actual angle around zero at cold idle, deviation around zero at warm idle.
My recollection is that before disassembly the Durametric showed that actual angle at idle when cold was close to zero On bank one.
I read that actual angle may not represent what I think it does, I read somewhere that it represents the amount of Variocam influence on the cams, not the actual timing.
Can someone possibly explain what the actual angle means? Bonus points if someone can explain to me what exactly is wrong with my car, my best guess is either I have a bad variocam actuator problem or I assembled things with intake cam one tooth off.
My front wheel was making a rattling noise for about the last week, and this morning as I drove out of my driveway and turned the wheel, I could hear a loud popping noise coming from my wheel whenever I turned. My best guess is that I drove over a pothole and the control arm / bushing moved out of place. Would this be covered under the OE warranty? Or should I take it to a mechanic?