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Code 1341 Camshaft Adjustment Bank1 below limit value


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Deporto, your problem seems to be just a high mileage issue. 5670hrs? Don't know how many miles or if this is original motor or it has been refreshed or not but if not it is around 200k? Your cam devi

Another suggestion that I have came across is that the adjusters are bank specific.I have seen them switched and also have seen a replacement installed that ended up with two bank 2 adjusters.This can

Well good for you !! Looks like you have solved another P1341 mystery!! Yes we are talking about the same part. The valve that is actuated by the solenoid is spring loaded to press upward to the solen

Posted Images

I feel both foolish and fortunate. The loss of the spring was foolish but the rescue was fortunate.

For Renntech users in future there is a hidden benefit to this tedious saga. I was forced to test every aspect of the entire system and offer the results for scrutiny by experts here. That rigor produced a cheap method for fabricating the many test harnesses with customized connectors . These harnesses are based on recommendations in other Threads of what ohms/volts to measure where  and in what circumstances and with what precautions. 

The short version is that these harnesses provided results that confirmed that the Bank 1 Solenoid(part # 99660590100 ), the DME, the wiring & connectors were perfect. By logical elimination ,this left the Bank 1 Tensioning Element a.k.a.  Variocam Actuator - part # 99610505158 - number 7 here -as defective. Yes, it is $1000 ! The labor to get to it and replace it would be more.

http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=986-97-04&section=103-10

This was indeed proved to be  the correct diagnosis but only when I dismantled the Actuator. The missing spring was discovered by accident (see Posts of April 2)and remedied by the generosity of a fellow Forum member.

You can see a diagram of the internal parts of the Tensioning Element(Variocam Adjuster) in the FSM  Sec. 15-37-19

The other benefit for Renntech-ers who read this in future is the questions about the orientation of small parts. I had not seen those answers anywhere else. Part of the significance of those answers is that even with a functional Actuator if you accidentally re-orient some parts , you will get the 1341 code when you reassemble and retest- that is a major re-do - even assuming you would know what to look for - and you would not unless you read this Thread - to The End.

Edit- Recently ECU Doctors have noted that the 13 ohm Solenoid Test above may be incomplete. There is a fault condition where the Solenoid draws abnormally high current.This causes the wiring harness to overheat,melts insulation and causes damage in the DME. This damage can be detected by a burnt smell in the DME if you remove the cover.

If this fault occurs, merely replacing the Solenoid +/- Actuator will not fix the problem. The DME must be repaired and the damaged harness replaced.

Edited by Schnell Gelb
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  • 2 months later...

:"If none of this is the case, I have one more WILD case I remember with this code. After an engine was improperly timed and grossly out of time. it was put back in time and this code was present. Timing was check and rechecked , adjuster was replaced with known good one, sensor was replaced with known good one, wiring all tested good. Cam deviations were ERRATIC. Engine ran great. Just for ****s and giggles I did a HARD RESET of the DME,ie disconnected the the positive battery cable and touched it to the negative side (grounding the positive to deplete all capacitors).This cured the problem evidently the DME had LEARNED some bad data that it would not turn lose of."

 

I'm thinking of giving this a try before going back in a tearing everything apart again...

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  • 3 months later...

No part available

Best to find someone with a 'dead' used part and use their spring ?

Did you loose the spring or is it defective?

A defective spring is extreeeemly unlikely as a cause of 1341

Edited by Schnell Gelb
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  • 5 months later...

I know this is a old post but it really applies to what I'm dealing with. My first post.  Absolutely love this forum and it's been unbelievably helpful over the years.  Previous car was a 99 Boxster.  I now have a Ocean Blue Metallic 2000 996 C2 cabriolet 156,000 miles. 

Background... Purchased the car fromTexas last year,  knowing it was a project (I live in Missouri).   The previous owner had just had a mechanic in Texas install a new LN IMS and replaced the variocam actuators.

For the last 9 months I've been rehabbing everything I can on the car.  Coilovers, and lots of other new suspension parts, new clutch, cat delete crossover pipes, Gundo hack exhaust, some paint work on the rear, rolled fenders to fit 19 inch forgestar f14 wheels.. and other things.  

Recently I've been working to determine why I've been getting 1341 and 1325 cel.   I read through and performed all the suggested diagnosis ideas I've found on here and read every post I could find related to this .   Eventually I ended up pulling the engine out.  What I found is that the previous owners mechanic installed the variocam actuators and solenoids on the wrong banks. . and I also figured out that he replaced the actuators with use ones but with new chain guides.  So I have the camshaft and actuators removed on both sides and I have a couple questions.

 

Is there a way to bench test the actuator to know if they are working properly ? I have brand new solenoids for them and Pads are brand new on both.  They appear to be in good working order and with new ones being 1000 bucks a piece I'd prefer to not replace them if not needed. 

 Also after reading this whole thread and all the others I can find.. if I don't buy new actuators I want to make sure I put everything back together right.   I was looking for clarification on which plunger/ piston should be in part # 996105053 58 cylinder 4-6 & which plunger/ piston should be in part # 996105051 58?  Pictures below of the 2 from my car.  1st picture is 99610505358 cyl 4-6.  The bottom picture is 99610505158 cylinder 1-3. I'm thinking the mechanic also put the wrong plunger/piston in the wrong actuator..   I would greatly appreciate any help on this.   

Brad 

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