Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
To all 996 owners with PSE, especially those with a 4S.
I think my 996 C4S exhaust behaves oddly. I think it's a fault but you might tell me it's normal behaviour. The problem is that I've always had this 'fault' on my car so I don't know if it's a fault or intentional behaviour. If you have the same car, perhaps you can shed some light on this.
When I start it, it's noisy and sounds great. It quiets down as it runs for the first 5 mins.
I have the PSE system and when I press the button you can audibly hear the exhaust note change - quieter when on and louder when off. Default is off so loud.
Here's the rub. Up to around 1500rpm it's got a good noise then it fades out to the point where it's so quiet it's like driving my partners Yaris. If I keep accelerating, when I get to around 3500rpm the exhaust suddenly gets loud again. I mean it's immediate - like someones flipping a switched marked loud. It sounds great.
It happens in 2nd and 3rd gears most noticeably and the PSE is in the 'off' position. If I have the PSE button on, then it's just quiet all the time and that works fine.
So why the silent spot?
I did read somewhere that German market cars might have had a system that turns on and off the PSE at certain speeds to prevent people driving round residential streets with a loud exhaust but information is thin and I don't think I was ever on UK cars.
I have also had a small go at checking vacuum pressure at idle on both sides of the Y piece in the engine bay but both hold good pressure. One side has only a microscopic leak but not enough to cause this kind of issue.
This will be my first post, thanks for a great forum !
I've recently purchased a exhaust system from Design911 in the UK which has the valvetronic function on. This is said to replicate the PSE which my car does not have factory installed.
Wired it up and put the vacuum hoses, tested the system and it works fine.
Over to the issue for my car:
When starting up the car, the neutral positon of the valves is open, which means a lot of noice from the exhaust.
When switching this by the solenoid, sending vacuum into the system and the valves closes. This means less sound.
But when the valves is closed the car wont run properly at the RPM range of 5500-7000 RPM's there is also fault codes for misfire on cylinder 2.
The strange thing is that this works perfectly when the valves is open. I've tried two differnet vacuum sources, into the ressonator and also for the left hand side cooling system vacuum solenoids. Without any differnce. I tried to run vacuum directly to the vacuum actuators on the exhaust without any difference and also tried manually applying vacuum and using a one way check valve to keep the vacuum while not connected to the cars vacuum line. No vacuum leaks, no fault codes when driving with the valves open.
Same result every time. So have anyone had some similar issues to their car ?
Thanks in advance for any help !
I have a 2003 Boxster with the CDR23 radio and external amplifier mounted in the front trunk. There are two multi-pin connectors, a fiber optic connector and an antenna connector on the rear of the head unit. The display on the head unit in the car seems to be fine as the display appears to be working as it should. The problem is no sound out of any speakers. The problem was intermittent for quite a while as sometimes when I started the car I would have sound from the speakers and other times no sound. Sometimes I would be driving and the sound would suddenly just quit. Now there is no sound at all, but the head unit display still appears to be working ok. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what might be the problem?
Hello there, this is my first post here and I’m writing because of problem with my boxster.
Today in the morning I’ve started my 2002 boxster and noticed strange sounds from the engine/ rear side of the car
It’s a metallic, grinding sound like a loose piece of metal or something like that
Sound disappears when you press gas and comes back once you loose the pedal, I don’t know if it changes while engine is warm
Also, check engine light shown up yesterday, when I connected my BT OBD2 there was no error code.
I came with that to workshop also, and they said it’s a catalyst efficiency error.
I’ve had that error code a while ago, I’ve replaced mass air flow meter and check engine light disappeared.
I think it might be a problem with maf again because I bought not the cheaper, not the original one, but why are there these strange sounds? I’m worried about this. Could it be catalyst this time? Or again should I replace maf? This time I’ll buy original one.
here are two Videos I made
Also I’m sorry if you can’t understand something, my english is not perfect.
Thank you for all replies, I hope we will solve that problem together
Hi all I’ve just found this forum tonight and thought I’d ask more experienced users what they are getting power wise after a remap, I’m taking my 08 CTT into Zensport tomorrow morning for a remap and I’m wondering what kind of power I should be expecting with the following mods I’ve had done last week prior to the remap.
HAYWARD AND SCOTT EXHAUST WITH X PIPE, REAR BOXES, SECONDARY CAT DELETE, TURBO S STAINLESS STEEL TIPS. IPD PLENUM K&N PANEL FILTERS AGENCY POWER RECIRC VALVES Many thanks, Andy