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Can I simply remove/pull out the variocam actuator in bank 2 (or bank 1 for that matter) to possibly clean or replace then simply insert back in without doing anything else? I would like to do this to trouble shoot to see if I can get the actuator to engage with Durametric (of course the engine will not be running). If it doesn't engage then I would then move to the the solenoid. I have seen videos where they can be cleaned and start working again however the videos I've seen have the variocam actuator completely taken out and set on a work bench. My concern is if I do this wrong I create a larger problem when inserting back in. Any advice, thoughts, questions or comments?
After 18yrs my convertible top has finally encountered its first issue. After using this forum (thank you!!) to figure out how to access all of the components (top was stuck in closed position), I found the root of my issue, a bad cable. However, as I was very carefully removing the cable from the transmission, the "clip" which is molded into the plastic cover cracked and is no longer functional (see image). Not really surprising on an 18yr old piece of plastic. The transmission works perfectly and I do not want to replace it, so I am looking for advice on any other ways that I can keep the cable properly engaged to the transmission. Please let me know if anyone else has encountered this and if there are any viable solutions. Thank you!
Had a puddle when warm, from the drivers side front (coolant leak as discoloured the drive).
Common problem so took the wheel off with it facing as far right as possible, then, If I recall, 7 screws to remove the plastic cover of the inner wheel arch (torxs)
Bottom of the 2 pipes were the problem on mine
The 2 ends of the pipe means you will need a big bucket to catch all the fluid,
There will be a something like a 3mm wire cir-clip that retains the hose, one at each end, make sure it is well clear or take it off all together, its easy to get back on.
then just pull the hose off and get wet.(image)
The leaking end had been bodged before so was I had to wiggle for a while, don't forget the car is on jacks so don't pull too hard.
then release the other end, I must have releases a good 3 litres of coolant out of the car.
The new hose (image) is apparently silicone based, and I read that you are not to use silicone lubricant on silicon hoses?
So you will have to decide on what to put on the hose to aid insertion.
Clean everything as much as you can, then push the new hose and put back the clips on both ends (test pull to see if well located).
With the Gen2 (might be cayman and boxster the coolant refill should be done with a full drain as per other tutorials, but to refill and bleed you have to remove the engine cover and find the
bleed valve as per image. not in the boot as gen1( as I understand)
Check for leaks
I recently purchased some used radiator air ducts for my 2006 C2S. The airducts looked great and no broken clips in the photo and when I spoke to the seller. However when the air ducts arrived some of the clips where you slide the air ducts onto the radiator were broken. I did see where the seller tried to tape them up to protect them so I can't blame the seller. The post office I can blame.
Well has anyone ever repaired their air ducts clips? If so how did you do it? Bodyshop maybe? plastics fabricator? I hate to have to buy two more of these.