JFP in PA

It is indicating a fault in the system, you need to get the vehicle scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool to find out what the problem is.

Yes, and then we blow them dry with compressed air so there is no lint. We flush solvent through the calipers as well, also followed by compressed air.

A lot of expense and effort if it is not the source. I would start by double checking the OEM part numbers against what Porsche lists. You can use Sunset Porsche's online parts system to do this. Was there any problem with the car's hydraulic system before you did the clutch?

We solvent clean the calipers and components, and then blow out the passages with compressed air.

Year and model is always helpful. Possible cam cover or plug tubes (depending upon year). It could be either. Suggest cleaning the area and then keep an eye on how it develops.

Yes, there could be pending codes which have not tripped the light yet.

Ok, the reason I asked is that it sounds like you are pushing the pressure plate over center (turning the fingers inside out), which will cause the pedal to stick to the floor. Are all the parts OEM or after market?

What did you change when you did your clutch?

Depending upon how dirty or corroded, pretty much so.

Did you bleed the clutch with the pedal held to the floor? If not, re-bleed it.

Year and model is always helpful. Possible cam cover or plug tubes (depending upon year).

The hard line flare nut can be undone without removing the clip, but as the clip will need to come off to remove the flex line anyway, I would just take it off.

Not necessary.

A dealer, or well equipped Indy, should have the master key set and can also get you a replacement key for your current lugs.

On the 997, the lines are the same; some aftermarket come with the springs on all four to protect them. The threaded connection to the hard lines will actually slide back to expose the flared end of the hard line, so the hose needs to fit the line flare not the threaded fitting:

Needle nose pliers are the tool of choice for the clips. Make up four plugged rubber hose sections to cap the hard lines and you will be fine, just don't let the system drain or you will have more problems. I also would not replace the rubber flex lines with new rubber units, I'd go with braided stainless steel instead.

There are spring clips at #2 & 4 that need to be removed, and then you will need a proper fitting wrench to remove the lines: You should use a short section of rubber vacuum hose that is plugged to prevent the hydraulic fluid from draining out of the hear line section, and only open one line at a time.

Have your tech check the battery cables for voltage drop. Internal corrosion inside the cables can raise their resistance, particularly when warm, making the vehicle hard to turn over.

If it really is a "failed" LN unit, it would be a rarity. LN has only had about a dozen or so of the 12,000 plus installed units since 2009 develop problems, and most of them were traced to installation issues or other non IMS problems that generated metal grit that ultimately took out the bearing, so I would be rather circumspect of their comment without additional information. Removing the rear seal does help both the dual row and the non serviceable OEM bearings, but does not help the single row units much as they seem unable to deal with the mechanical loads. What stumps me is that to remove the seal, the car has to be in a configuration that is literally moments away from replacing the OEM bearing with a much better ceramic hybrid bearing, but just removing the seal is still, it is better than nothing. I'm confused. Are you saying that people are removing the seal on brand new LN IMS bearing? I'm putting a 3.6 996 engine into my 03 986S and unclear if I have dual row. It is 03 also. No, we were talking about the OEM bearings; no modifications are needed with the LN units. If your engine is an 03, it is a single row bearing; as such, it would also be a candidate for the LN IMS Solution, which is a permanent fix.

There is nothing really wrong with the external oil line, it is incredibly durable braided stainless and tucked up out of harms way.

I think your question would best be directed towards Denso.

Never said that heads can't be removed with the engine still in, but it is much easier with it out, plus you have access to anything else at the same time. My concern is both the amount of time it takes with the engine still in, and then possibly finding out he needs to pull it anyway.

Yes, we scanned the sensors during cold start, and they were fine. We always look at the sensor values whenever we scan a customer car, it only takes a few seconds and often heads off a soon to be problem. The customer also ran a log with his Durametric while the car was away from the shop. Everything looked fine, but the SAI flag remained until it ran enough miles to satisfy the DME. As mentioned earlier, from experience 2000-2001 cars seem more prone to do this than other years.

As mentioned previously, the car has to go through a number of cold starts, full warm up, drive at highway speeds, shut off, and full cool down cycles before it resets. People have promoted specific regimens like the one you mentioned for the 993 from time to time, but I am unaware of a specific one that works consistently on the later cars. My experience belies this. I had all readiness monitors reset except EVAP and SAI. With the help of Ahsai and the O2 voltage readings at cold start-up, it was judged that the slow response of one of the post-cat sensors was the likely culprit. So today, I put in a new Bosch sensor, started the car and ran it through a cold start cycle for 2 and 1/2 minutes sitting in my driveway. I then scanned the DME for smog readiness, and lo and behold, the SAI readiness check was complete and reset! So at least for my 2001 Boxster with a 7.2 DME, running a full drive cycle is NOT necessary to complete the SAI test and remove the flag. BTW, EVAP is still not reset, but that is not necessary to pass smog in California. I immediately drove to my long time smog tester who tested it and it passed- hooray! Thanks so much Ahsai and all the rest of you who have so generously taken the time to read my lengthy posts and offered their expertise, suggestions and insight. This forum is so much better in that regard the some of the others that I also posted on. Last week, we had a 2001 base car in the shop for emissions inspection that finally reset the SAI flag after 87 miles of driving over multiple days. And I've seen cars longer that that as well. It doesn't always work itself out with one run cycle.

It would be easier, and probably faster, to pull the engine; plus if you run into anything else it would already be out and accessible.