JFP in PA

Thanks for the reply. That's great news. Then perhaps their suggestion will work. The warranty company also wanted verification that the dealer contacted "Porsche Technical Support" to consult them / open a case regarding this issue. Is that a normal thing for the techs to do? I'm going to call the dealer tomorrow and see if I can find out what the warranty company is talking about. Aftermarket warranty companies thow all sorts of road blocks into the process, which is why a lot of shops do not like them.

Fault codes are stored until either cleared by a tech or until the DME feels that the problem has been solved or repaired, which is often quite a bit of driving (several start, warm up, run at highway speed, shut off, and cool down cycles at a minimum).

LN has a specific kit for the Cayenne Turbo only, not for the 996TT, which is why I mentioned I was assuming he had the correct adaptor in my original post as Loren is correct on the fitment, the turbo cars are different. I have read on another site that someone else makes them for the turbos, Automotion if memory serves.

Porsche has stopped printing both the service manuals and wiring diagrams after 2004-2005, they are only available by subscription or by page purchase from Porsche website called Porsche Integrated Workshop Information System - Technical Service Information: http://www.renntech.org/forums/links/goto/18-porsche-piwis-tsi/

The ones we use are by LN Engineering: http://www.lnengineering.com/spinonfilteradapter.html Note the different styles for the model years and turbo (Cayenne)/non turbo applications. Another great product from them are their magnetic oil plugs which have a powerful neodymium magnet that will pick up any ferrous debris from the oil. They also sell kits that include everything you will need; filter, adaptor, and the magnetic drain plugs with washers as well.

There is nothing wrong with a spin on filter, and in fact, there are many things about it that are better than most of the cartridge OEM style filters. First, I will assume you have the correct one for the Metzger engine (the one for the M96/97 engine 996 is different). The spin on filter can have as much as 30% smaller pore diameters than the OEM cartridge and provides better filtration than the OEM filters, and because it is metal end capped, there is no chance of the end caps coming loose as OEM glued caps sometimes do, which allows unfiltered oil to circulate. Your choice of filter media is much wider with spin on filters as they can be obtained with treated paper or totally synthetic filter media, which is not an option with OEM style filter. The spin on is "full flow", meaning the oil is filtered 100% of the time (no by-pass to stick open and allow unfiltered oil to circulate). Spin on filters will not crack like the plastic OEM filter housing, although this is more important to the M96/97 engines where the filter is down low under the car and can be hit by debris thrown off the tires or bouncing up from the road surface. A tool is available from multiple sources to cut open the metal housing of the spin on for filter media examination as well. We have used spin on filters on many of our customer's cars for years, never had a problem with any of them.

As a shop, we worry more about reading and resetting codes, system activation functions, and other service related issues. The Durametric is pretty good in those areas. Coding or programing is not something that we encounter frequently, so it is not that much of a downside issue. The Durametric is not perfect, and in fact may only be 75-85% as capable as the current OEM PIWIS system, but many of the so called "problems" you see people ranting about on the web are more often than not operator related, and many can be traced back directly to Porsche. Durametric cannot directly copy the functions of the PIWIS system, Porsche owns and closely protects those rights. So they are left to find a work around to get to the same end result in order to avoid Porsche's legal rath. Add in Porsche's penchant for throwing curves at you (some cars have DME's that are totally different from their normal architecture and are even from another supplier; Porsche knows all about it, Durametric has to figure out why a certain car does not communicate correctly while others of the same model year are fine) and problems are going to crop up. Porsche also seems to not totally respect their own demarcation lines on things like which version of the DME, ABS, or PSM software should be in the car because of the model year, and a vehicle that should have a 7.2 DME really has a 7.8. Try and scan the car as the 7.2 it should be, and you get weird or no results; reset the software to 7.8 and everything is fine. Now stop for a moment and think about what can go wrong when someone with little or even no diagnostic experience tries to asses a problem. Even the mighty PIWIS is not immune to problems, I know of several incidents where Porsche techs could not communicate with the cars, and ended up calling around to independent shops for ideas. I have also heard that there are "tricks" to getting the PIWIS to work on some cars that the techs pass around amongst themselves as well. We seriously looked at acquiring a legitimate PIWIS unit, but the combination of the outrageous cost structure, the fact that Porsche burned early lessors of the first PIWIS when they released the new system, and the fact that while the lease documentation clearly states that systems leased by "outside entities" (read non dealers) will have "certain functions disabled", you cannot get a straight answer as to what is left out of the system before you plunk down nearly twenty grand a year, we deicided that the shop is both creative and intuitive enough to run with the Durametric Pro system.

You should also be support firms like Durametric software who continue to constantly improve an already excellent package that allows both "backyard" mechanics and commercial shops to completely avoid the OEM system.

The constraint of trade was class action, and it still failed......twice.

Good start, but you should get a PPI by someone with a lot of history with these cars and that has either a PIWIS or Durametric system to scan its history for over revs, etc. The money a proper PPI costs is a very wise investment.

Yes, a failing AC line or component can make a fairly loud sound when it vents off the gas. Have the AC system tested for operating pressures, bet you find yours is zero..........

There already has been more than one "constraint of trade" action at the Federal level claiming that all of the OEM's have something like this only to prevent independent shops from competing with the dealerships; but each time the OEM's lawyers got it thrown out.

Looks like a cheap after market gasket. Unless it leaks, I'd leave it alone. While you should dump at least 1 qt. of fluid into the converter before installing it on to the trans, don't fill the trans itself until it is in the car, and then do it according to the OEM refill technique.

Before you go to pull the heads, which means pulling the engine, check the plugs, leak down the engine, and bore scope it; you need to know what you are dealing with before you try and start fixing things.

First of all, normal maintenance on your 996 is to do a compete brake and clutch hydraulic system flush with new fluid at least every two years, which entails replacing all the fluid. This is critical to get all the absorbed moisture out before it starts to corrode some of the expensive bits like your ABS and PSM valves and controls. If you had a loose line or connection, I am not at all surprised you found a bit of air in the system. When you release the brake pedal, a loose fitting will pull air into the system. Over time, this can amount to quite a few large bubbles in the system. And you are not the first to discover that the spokes on some of these wheels protrude out past the tires, we see it all the time.

Could be a couple issues; loose valve guides will cause the engine to suck in oil, as will rings that have not seated properly. I would start by pulling all the plugs, noting there cylinder locations, and check hem for evidence of oil. If you spot one or more questionable plugs, have a leak down test run on those cylinders for ring or bore issues. If you get some questionable leak down values, time to drop a bore scope in the cylinder to look for the problems.

Yea, I'm happy with the deal. I don't see a bunch of earier turbos for sale, so happy I could find one I could afford! :) I bought the Boxster S new for my wife and I have taken care of it. Always garaged and only 11,000 miles on it so it's like a new car! Hopefully the next owner will take care of it. Also hoping this 911 is as reliable as the Boxster. You will find the Metzger lump powering the Turbo to be one of the best engines Porsche ever made from both a proven durability and performance perspective. Good luck with it.

As noted, that would be both expensive due to getting the Immobilizer codes plus the alternate DME itself. If Promoitve cannot help you as noted by Silver_TT, I would just dump the program and be done with it; we have never been a fan of these aftermarket software for multiple reasons ranging from emissions problems like you are experiencing to the software causing misleading general diagnostics problems (these things often create bogus outputs to keep the car from coding, so when you are trying to find a problem you never know what data is real and what isn't). At the end of the day, before and after dyno pulls have shown that many of the supposed power gains often grossly over stated and are marginal at best. These programs are also the kiss of death to any OEM warranty as Porsche has put a draconian automatic system in the PIWIS network that can easily catch modified DME coding and promptly kill the warranty world wide in seconds. As the result of these problems, we look at aftermarket software as a "deduct" item on cars we get in for PPI...............

All these codes indicate an interruption of the signal from the DME to the injector coils. OEM manual procedure is to check the individual injector wire harness from the injector to the DME using the infamous 9616 pin out box, looking are resistance and voltage. While this could be a wiring issue (like rodent damage), because all the injectors are out, it may also be a DME issue. you would rule out the fuel pump correct..thanks for the quick reply A fuel pump failure is not going to cause a communications issue with all six injectors. You can quickly rule out the fuel pump as an additional problem candidate by connecting an appropriate fuel pressure test gauge to the test port on the fuel rail, if it generates pressure and delivery rates within specs, there is nothing wrong with it.

While the TPMS can be shut off, very few shops would do so because of the liability exposure for defeating a Federally mandated safety system. Simply is not worth it...........

All these codes indicate an interruption of the signal from the DME to the injector coils. OEM manual procedure is to check the individual injector wire harness from the injector to the DME using the infamous 9616 pin out box, looking are resistance and voltage. While this could be a wiring issue (like rodent damage), because all the injectors are out, it may also be a DME issue.

True enough, but I think it is in the poster's interest to see what Wayne has worked out to address this question.

I'd suggest this is a question that should be posted on one of Wayne's forums to answer as it is his product.

If that's the case, expect to pay about $100 for the CPS, which may or may not be the issue, but could be both quickly and easily tested and eliminated without the expense...............

As I noted, the mechanics are not that difficult or complicated, it is purely a matter of where your head and your wallet are at, and your comfort level.