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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Probably the most useful in that context would be the factory OBDII manual, which is now out of print, but used copies come up for sale online from time to time.
  2. Welcome to RennTech Sounds like a classic ignition switch problem.
  3. Welcome to RennTech Borescope the bad cylinder looking for wall scuffing.
  4. As Duncan noted, the coils are the correct ones, so the problem lies elsewhere, possibly not having fully seated the connectors, which is a common problem.
  5. Welcome to RennTech Your system may have misplaced its marbles with the battery replacement, and that may require a reset with either a PST II or PIWIS system.
  6. It would probably just spin over as the DME would not see the engine turning and shut off the fuel and ignition systems.
  7. Did you change it but with a stripped bolt? Reason I ask is if the CPS is left loose, the sensor can back away from the flywheel enough to not see the trigger teeth and the car will act like it has another dead sensor…...
  8. We would do it by using a vacuum filling system which completely eliminates all of the "burping" nonsense.
  9. Welcome to RennTech TSBs are copyrighted material (by Porsche) and not available here (or anywhere but Porsche).
  10. Welcome to RennTech More than likely, the grey fluid is the give away. You had a lot of metal debris in the old fluid, so you probably have something more serious going on inside.
  11. Sometimes it is just the simple things. Glad you got it sorted.
  12. That tool is up there with hen's teeth. Only Porsche ever made them and a new one will set you back north of $600, but it is a work of art and an absolute pleasure to use. Just be sure to find one with the correct adaptor if you are using the PTFE design seal as it sets to a different installed depth than the Viton seals.
  13. More likely you need to reset your windows. It is in the owner's manual.
  14. Welcome to RennTech Unfortunately, Porsche never published any of this information, so only serious M96/97 rebuilders like Jake Raby have developed their own specs, which they probably will not share. Jake does, however, periodically offer an excellent class on rebuilding these engines where you could pick up the information you need,
  15. Probably two separate sources; the orange may be excess sealant breaking loose, the darker material is from the chain tensioner wear pads. Not unusual, but I would keep an eye on things like start up noise and cam deviation values. Eventually, the wear pads will have to be replaced.
  16. Welcome to RennTech Without a photo, anything would be a guess...………..
  17. You need someone with a PIWIS, which may limit you to a dealer.
  18. Welcome to RennTech Once water get into one of these units, they sometimes cannot be recovered or even repaired. There are companies such and the ECU Doctors than can often repair them, but you have to ship the unit and wait to see what they can do for you. If you replace the unit, it is going to require a PIWIS system to reprogram everything to work together, which will require getting the car to a shop or dealer with the tool.
  19. Actually, the OEM bypass issue is much worse than you think. Somewhere between 40-60% of the cars we see with the factory set up have a by pass that is anywhere from leaking to literally wide open, bypassing the filter completely on engines without other mechanical issues. The valve, which is located in the bottom of the plastic filter canister is a very shaky design that is quite often overlooked when the oil is changed, primarily because of its location which makes checking it problematic. The factory filter design also has had issues with the glued on paper end caps becoming unglued during use, which causes anther bypass route for the oil. This combination of factors has helped make spin on full flow aftermarkets systems very popular modifications in North America. And as Porsche in their infinite parts wisdom only sell the valve with the cannister, few are ever recognized much less replaced, so I would think your estimate of not making it more than 10K miles is more than a bit overstated, and also speaks to the inherent durability of these engines. I really don't know what to say about your experience with LN; many posters here have contacted them over the years with a variety of questions and have always gotten answers without any charge. This is either something new, or perhaps you are correct about international inquiries.
  20. Does the LN full flow design filter all the oil? The answer is yes, and very effectively as it uses a filter with significantly smaller media pore diameters than the stock filter.. But let me ask you a question: Did the IMS bearing fail while the engine was running the LN spin on, or did it still have the OEM cartridge filter? If it was the latter, then the engine oil passages are already full of grit, which is going to get to the bearings regardless of which filter is used, and adding the LN filter after the fact will not change that. The LN filter "sales pitch" as you state it was meant to apply to a healthy engine, not one that has already suffered IMS damage. And if you don't believe me on that, I would suggest you drop LN an email and ask their opinion on what you are trying to do.
  21. Simple: Gravity will do it. Even if the grit dose not get pumped around with the oil, there is a tremendous amount of slosh and windage in these engine's. This is one of the reasons they are so heavily baffled and contain multiple air oil separators in the sump. Grit come off a failing IMS bearing, or any other failing component, drops into the sump and gets sloshed or other wise whipped up into the crank carrier, falling in between the rod and crank, or worse yet into the thrust bearings for the crank, where they start grinding away. If the car had the factory oil filter installed, most of which have questionable by pass valves, and the process is much more direct: The grit simply blows by the filter, chewing up the oil pump gears, and is pressure fed directly onto rod and main journals. While this second process comes to an end much quicker, both end up in the same place.
  22. Loose grit inside the engine can still get in between the rod journals and the crank assembly and start tearing things up from there.
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