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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. I think you can stick a fork in that one.......................
  2. These are "interference engines", meaning that if the timing jumps, pistons can start hitting valves and doing lots of damage. When the cam timing is correct, the internal components are so close that the engines should only be rotated in a clockwise manner to prevent problems; and as little as 12 degrees out of time can result in bent metal at a minimum.
  3. What I would consider having checked is the car's alignment, just to be sure it is going down the road straight.
  4. Thanks logray. I finally spoke to another mechanic and then looked at it myself to separate what has actually happened and what is conjecture. This is what I know for certain: (1) The left tensioner is only slightly worn at the tip (like someone scrubbed it with steel wool), (2) The "timing notch" where the tensioner was located appeared to be off by 5 degrees or so (to the right). (3) According to the mechanic, the timing jumped when he removed the tensioner. (4) I turned the car on just long enough to back it into my garage and the engine sounds horrible. Based on what I am learning, I can't imagine that the chain guide would have come off because I would have either heard it happen (never heard anything unusual) and the car would immediately be undriveable (which was not the case until the mechanic replaced the tensioner). For a complete car novice, how hard is it to remove the cam covers to get a better look? Yikes! You should not be even turning the engine over by hand if you think the timing has jumped, much less running it. And resetting the cam timing is not just a matter of pulling the cam covers to get a better look; it requires both experience and some special tooling at a minimum. Do to the constricted engine bay on a 996, it is going to be easier to do this with the engine out of the car. At this juncture, you need to have the car flat bedded to someone that really knows what they are doing; no offense, but this is not a job for amateurs.
  5. Yeah I've been aware of that, but they have a clause under the Business Conditions for "Authorized Companies" that appears to exclude someone like me getting access. I know in many cases companies say that and don't enforce it, but I'd prefer not to go up on the wrong side of Porsche's legal team ;) Don't see why not; others have gotten subscriptions, and RennTech also specifically discourages any miss use of intellectual property, like having someone copy it for you.
  6. Porsche stopped publishing manuals and wiring diagrams several years ago; you can buy what you need by the page, or by a time based subscription to their technical database at Porsche PIWIS TSI: https://techinfo2.porsche.com/PAGInfosystem/VFModuleManager?Type=GVOStart
  7. And Homeboy, although banned here, posted on another forum that the engine with the "other" IMS bearing in it failed as well, engine full of metal......
  8. #2 is a bad idea. You are not going to get all the metal out flushing the engine, and the damage the remaining grit does will eventually be fatal. At this juncture, you still have a salvageable engine, if you run it and do more damage, that may no longer be true. Time to pull it and either rebuild or replace; and put the new IMS in it either way.
  9. First off, no need to thank me. You are the one taking the time to help me out, and I appreciate that. Regarding no idle issues, there are none that I know of. The car keeps a consistent idle at around 700 RPM. There is only minor deviance when running at idle or when shifting from load into neutral. But there definitely has not been any surges or stalls. Regarding performance issues, there are none that I am aware of. The car is used as a daily driver when both I choose not to ride my motorcycles and when the roads permit, so as a result I usually shift at around 3,000 RPM. And in that non-track, speed limit enforced, public road setting, I have noticed nothing out of the ordinary. This makes me think that something is beginning to fail as opposed to something that has already failed. Regarding running rich, it probably is. Probably not consistently, but when certain criteria - high ambient temperatures, car fully warmed up, engine at idle - I would presume so. I see no other reason as to why the CEL would trigger otherwise. From just a nearly baseless "sniff test", the car runs really rich when it starts, but once the O2 sensors heat up, it tends to lean itself out. Regarding the O2 upstream sensors looking worse, alright. I'll donate to read the link you provided. :) Regarding changing the downstream O2 sensors from ohms to volts, the Durametric does not appear to have the ability to do so. Remember - I only have access to a $287 aftermarket tool and not factory diagnostic tools. Durametric can read and graph O2 sensor voltages...........
  10. Oil from an AOS failure will not make both side of the engine read lean. Yes, you need either the Durametric system of one of Porsche's (PIWIS or PST II) to read the sensors, and you could also read the fuel trim data as well. That said, to check the fuel system, you only need a fuel pressure test gauge and about 10 min.
  11. They would indicate either a vacuum leak or low fuel pressure/volume. Both banks have reached their enrichment limits, so the car is lean on both sides. This is not a MAF issue, and it is probably not an O2 sensor getting weak as both banks are lean. I would start with a fuel pressure and delivery test to eliminate fuel delivery as an issue; if they are OK, you have an intake vacuum leak somewhere in the system........
  12. Probably the best place to start is to connect a Porsche specific scan tool (PIWIS, Durametric) to the car set in a data logging mode and run the car through the RPM window where you feel this anomaly. You sound like you are in the range where both the cam and valve timing are active, so you are going need to do some data collection to see what is going on at the time. Might help to also have someone in the car with you to note when it occurs to help pin point the variables.
  13. From experience, I would have to say they have added features to their system for both new and legacy vehicles over time; but as they have to find ways to get around Porsche's draconian protection of their property rights in the process, you never know how a particular feature will play out going forward. But in reality, they really are "the only aftermarket show in town" when it comes to Porsche diagnostics.
  14. Pull the alternator out and take it one of the parts stores that advertise they will load test it free of charge. There are other component's in the unit that can fail. I would also check all your cables for corrosion (common problem) which leads to higher resistance and reduced voltage (might want to do a search on this, been covered multiple times). As for no core charge, for that you are going to have to shop around, most parts outlets are going to charge you a core charge.
  15. You need to think of the Durametric system as a "work in progress", they are left to try and guess at what Porsche is up to at any moment in time, and how they are doing it, without violating any intellectual property rights. Not easy to do...........
  16. And, if you have replaced any componentry, you may need to adjust the oil level in the system as well. Porsche has a table that lists the proper amounts of PAG oil to add for each component replaced.
  17. Posted results When we get a car with a suspect cable problem, we disconnect the cable and check it for internal resistance using a digital multimeter. These cables should have no resistance; if we find any, the cable gets replaced. This is a fairly common problem. You can do the same thing by measuring voltage drop to get to the same place, but you need to be cautious because that method cannot pinpoint which cable is the problem if the harness has more than one cable or a connector in it. So comparing the results from the Durametric to the voltage reading at the battery + terminal won't offer confirmation ? As an update, checked the Durametric voltage at DME and it reads anywhere from 12.96 to 13.12 with AC, Radio and front cooling fans and engine at idle. Voltage at battery + terminal under the same conditions varied between 13.10 and 13.56. Engine was fully warmed up. A system that is in good shape (battery fully charged, cables good) should show a static voltage (engine not running) of around 12.6V at the battery. Engine running on a system in good shape, you should be seeing 13.5-14.5V at the battery. At a minimum, your voltages are a bit low. Check the system again, engine running but everything else turned off; if the Durametric voltage is not in the 13.5-14.5V range either there is an alternator/regulator problem, or one or more of the cables are high in internal resistance.Posted results, with everything I could turn off turned off, in above post. Many thanks for your help. The voltage readings you listed where most helpful and the first time I have seen them listed together presenting a much clearer undersanding of what I should belooking for in the results. As noted will post retest results once I install he new harness. Elimination of my starting issues further supports the fact that this issue is not limited to the '05-'06 models. Hot starting issues associated with internal cable corrosion are unfortunately all too common across several model years; Porsche actually released updated cables with improvements designed to address this exact problem. While the replacement cables are not all that expensive, the confined spaces they run through make replacement a bit of time consuming but otherwise not difficult job.
  18. Because they still carried the dual row bearing, which was the least failure prone style.
  19. It would probably be best to flush and bleed the system last to minimize any chance of problems. Be sure to properly bed your new pads and rotors when everything is done. Which fluid you use is important; we strictly use the ATE brand at the shop due to its high boiling points and excellent performance history. Look around a bit, a lot of retailers that focus on the performance market carry it, and it is readily available online as well.
  20. I think he is referring to the rattle and noise you get after switching to a single mass lightweight flywheel, which is a common complaint, and an indication of the loss of dampening.
  21. When we get a car with a suspect cable problem, we disconnect the cable and check it for internal resistance using a digital multimeter. These cables should have no resistance; if we find any, the cable gets replaced. This is a fairly common problem. You can do the same thing by measuring voltage drop to get to the same place, but you need to be cautious because that method cannot pinpoint which cable is the problem if the harness has more than one cable or a connector in it. So comparing the results from the Durametric to the voltage reading at the battery + terminal won't offer confirmation ? As an update, checked the Durametric voltage at DME and it reads anywhere from 12.96 to 13.12 with AC, Radio and front cooling fans and engine at idle. Voltage at battery + terminal under the same conditions varied between 13.10 and 13.56. Engine was fully warmed up. A system that is in good shape (battery fully charged, cables good) should show a static voltage (engine not running) of around 12.6V at the battery. Engine running on a system in good shape, you should be seeing 13.5-14.5V at the battery. At a minimum, your voltages are a bit low. Check the system again, engine running but everything else turned off; if the Durametric voltage is not in the 13.5-14.5V range either there is an alternator/regulator problem, or one or more of the cables are high in internal resistance.
  22. The O2 sensor readings were for both pre- and post-catalytic converter. Attached is a screenshot of the O2 sensor readings from Durametric when warm. The low values seem to be lower today than yesterday. Getting cold numbers is a bit more difficult due to working in the morning, but I will try to provide those when I can. Unless you mean "Oxygen sensing cylinders 1-3" and "Oxygen sensing cylinders 4-6", I am not seeing how to measure the O2 sensor voltage of a specific bank. And the oxygen sensing reading for cylinders 1-3 is 1.01 to 1.05 and for cylinders 4-6 s 0.99 to 1.02, which seems out of the sweet spot if that value does reflect an O2 sensor - unless maybe the value is scaled so that 1.0 is 14.7:1...? Sorry about that. My car is a 1999 Carrera C2. It does have a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel injector rail. Looks like I need to order a fuel pressure and vacuum gauge. Regarding the MAF, darn. I didn't think so. It's never the relatively cheap part that is easy to access... So if it does turn out to be fuel injector related, what are the odds that sending the injectors to be professionally cleaned would fix them versus having to replace one or more injectors? Thank you! Yes, the injectors can be refurbished, there are a lot of shops that do this, so look for one in your area.
  23. You also need to do a search on problems associated with the use of single mass flywheels on these engines. Porsche even release a tech bulletin about not using them due to loss of torsional and harmonic dampening, which is what the dual mass is there for. Some engine builders will not use them unless the engine is first properly rebalanced. I know someone will chime in and tell you that they have had one for years and not had problems, but I can assure you that is not always the case, and the results can be disasterous. This is what happened to a 3.6 X51 engine that was not rebalanced before using a light weight single mass flywheel, if you want to read more about it, start here: http://www.flat6innovations.com/index.php/broken-crank
  24. When we get a car with a suspect cable problem, we disconnect the cable and check it for internal resistance using a digital multimeter. These cables should have no resistance; if we find any, the cable gets replaced. This is a fairly common problem. You can do the same thing by measuring voltage drop to get to the same place, but you need to be cautious because that method cannot pinpoint which cable is the problem if the harness has more than one cable or a connector in it.
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