JFP in PA

When we get a car with a suspect cable problem, we disconnect the cable and check it for internal resistance using a digital multimeter. These cables should have no resistance; if we find any, the cable gets replaced. This is a fairly common problem. You can do the same thing by measuring voltage drop to get to the same place, but you need to be cautious because that method cannot pinpoint which cable is the problem if the harness has more than one cable or a connector in it.

The DME monitors the output voltage of the alternator, should be in the actual values section. What exactly are you trying to accomplish? You mentioned changing cables; if you are having issues with the charging system involving the cables, you should be looking at resistance, not voltage, as corrosion inside the cables causes the resistance to rise, restricting current (amperage) flow. This is often difficult to catch by monitoring voltage, but easy to see when looking at resistance. And you cannot read resistance off of any scanning system I am aware of, you need a multimeter and access to the cable, which means pulling the alternator if you cannot get behind it.

Well, you could hook it up to the Durametric software and read it.

The P1123 Code "Oxygen Sensing adaptation range 1 Cylinders 1-3) Lean limit" is referring to the fact that DME has reached its limit is trying to lean out that bank and the car is running too rich as the result. Usual two suspects are either high fuel pressure or a leaking injector(s) on that side. As you have not identified your year or model, in some cases is can also be a defect fuel pressure regulator on the injector fuel rail, depending upon the year, as some models do not have the external regulator. There is little probability of the MAF being involved in this issue. Step number one should be to get a fuel pressure reading off the test port on the fuel rail, should be 55+/-3 PSIG engine off; 48+/-3 PSIG engine running. If it is an early car with an external fuel pressure regulator, pull the vacuum line off the regulator and read the vacuum on the line, should be around 15 inches of vacuum. Checking the individual injectors is a bit more difficult; for a DIY, probably the easiest approach is to pull all the plugs on that bank and check their color. If one or more are overly dark, those would be your suspect injectors.

If you buy an LN Engineering magnetic drain plug, the torque specs are 19 ft-lbs. Very important to remember or you will be rewarded with your "following the Porsche torque specs" diligence with the privilege of starting your own "how to remove stripped drain plug?" thread. :blink: Wrong! Read the Porsche Service Manual. The torque specs on the oil filer is 19 ft-lb. The torque on the oil drain plug is 37 ft-lb. Perhaps we need to drop a note to Charles Navvaro as his website states the following: Uses O.E. sealing ring Porsche part number 900 123 106 30. Torque to 19 ft/lb. Replace sealing ring every time you re-install the drain plug. Could just be a typo......

Yes, the chain rails between the cams are a good option. You will also need specific cam holding tools to remove the covers with out risking damage.

Almost correct, the cam cover has to come off: I think the two fasteners that the OP may have been referring to are the seal O-ring cover that bolts to the cam cover.

Codes are saying you are running overly rich, as your fuel pressure looks OK, I'd look at the fuel pressure regulator to make sure it is not acting up. The Durametric system can be a bit quirky, after selecting your engine option, try the other ABS and cluster options, sometimes they work.

Correct on the two fasteners. Believe it or not, Porsche has a special tool to get them out; but we use a small set of channel lock pliers to pop them loose. Just don't get overly ambitious as the cam cover is irreplaceable, so you don't want to damage it.

Whose manual is it (Porsche, aftermarket, etc.)? My OEM looks just like what Loren posted and if you read item #6, it tells you to fill the trans via the charging port: Note: To undo and tighten the cap nut for the charging valve, counter with an open-ended wrench. 5. Screw off cap nut for the charging valve. 6. Screw connection hose No. 9507/1 A onto charging valve. Top up with ATF via the charging valve until surplus ATF runs out at the control screw bore. Note: All instructions and test conditions for "Checking and topping up ATF fluid" must be observed for further work steps>>> 37-1 "Checking and topping up ATF (as of model year 2002)". The Bentley manual also says the same thing.

I have no idea why, are you sure the manual is correct for the car and year?

Good, then we are making progress. Look at the smaller insert in the upper right of this photo: In that inset photo, the red arrow is pointing at the A or drain plug, the blue arrow is pointing at B or the overflow port. Now if you look directly to the right of the red arrow, you will see a larger hex cap (looks like and AC service port cap) which is covering the charging port, where the line to fill the trans connects.

OK, as that is the way we have been doing 2002+ 996 Tips since they first showed up, then let's start again with the basics: What year and model is the car?

You do not fill thru either A or B, on a 2002 and later car you fill it via the charging valve (looks like an AC charging port at the corner of the trans sump) using a special hose with a fitting for the charging port until the fluid comes out of port B with the car running and fluid at around 40C. If you have aces to a Bentley manual, look at page 37-12 and all will be revealed.........

It is possible, but with that little wire left you may be better off just replacing it with a new one. The two screws are all that is holding it in.

There is a special tool, but you don't really need it if you follow Mike Rentner's really good set of DIY Litronics install instructions that have been around for a quite a bit, but may help to clear things up: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/box_litronic/litronic_pg1a.htm

OK, the P0175 is often a code often caused by something as simple as the fluid level being a little too low; are you sure the fluid level is correct? If the fluid level is correct, the speed sensor in question is mounted to a conductor plate on the top of the valve body in the transmission: Thanks.... Hi JFP, the thing is that the dealer replaced transmission and differential fluid in January using their highly precise method for doing so....by the book so as to speak, and I have tile flooring in my garage and would have seen leaks....so I'm thinking the valve body may be shot - hopefully it doesn't mean a full rebuild or reman unit :- I would still check the fluid level first, it would not be the first time I've seen a car right out of the dealer's that was low on fluid. Checking is a bit convoluted due to where the transmission is, but can still be done as a DIY; do a search in the archives for servicing the Tiptronic, it has been written up more than once. The speed sensor itself may be the only thing that needs changing, but unfortunately that entails removing the valve body to get at it. Not hard, but not fun either. JFP: dealer called back. The fluid is ok, it appears to be speed sensor which is in the valve body or the TCU or both. They said valve body is a $2500 or so part. Now the problem is that I don't think they can just change the speed sensor - appears they'd replace the whole valve body. If I were to just replace speed sensor n3, where can I buy such a part and how much would it cost? If i were to have to replace entire valve body do you know where I can buy it and cost? Thanks Both items are Porsche parts, suggest contacting Sunset Porsche in Beaverton, OR (503.641.8600) for pricing. VW and Mercedes also use the same parts as well. ok - called Sunset Porsche, they are saying that the valve body can be ordered, but that there are other parts like solenoids that can be ordered separately - he couldn't find an item called a speed sensor or rpm sensor on the transmission. Do you by any chance have an idea what the part number for just the speed sensors could be, or am I better off just buying the valve body? thanks No, I don't have the part numbers at hand, but I did do some research and found this: P0715 Speed comparison n2 with n3 implausiblePossible cause of fault- Short circuit to B+/ground/between wires or open circuit- Speed sensor n2 or n3 faulty- Tiptronic control unit faultyNote: The speed sensors are housed in the electrical part of the hydraulic control unit. If a speed sensor is faulty, the complete electrical part of the hydraulic control unit must be replaced. So it looks like the entire electrical section, often called the conductor plate, has to be changed out as the sensors are not available by themselves anymore. This device sits on top of the valve body, but is separate from it. You may want to now go back to Sunset and ask about the electrical section and see if that comes by itself or if you need to buy it with the valve body.

If the engine was other wise fine, don't write it off until you can get it flat bedded and run some diagnostics. Poor leak down values are not good; if the engine is not smoking like a champ, it could be a bad valve spring which is completely fixable. Suggest getting it to somewhere where you can confirm the leak down data, and then bore scope that cylinder, looking for any signs of damage. If all is good, the head will need to come off to fix it, so it would be worthwhile to pull both and go through them to make sure none of the other springs are headed south. By far, the easiest way to do this is to drop the engine, which would also allow you to update any other bits (clutch, RMS, IMS, AOS, etc.) that are more of a pain with the engine in. This is not that bad a project, but I know it sounds that way, and yes, it can be done with the car on jack stands.

OK, the P0175 is often a code often caused by something as simple as the fluid level being a little too low; are you sure the fluid level is correct? If the fluid level is correct, the speed sensor in question is mounted to a conductor plate on the top of the valve body in the transmission: Thanks.... Hi JFP, the thing is that the dealer replaced transmission and differential fluid in January using their highly precise method for doing so....by the book so as to speak, and I have tile flooring in my garage and would have seen leaks....so I'm thinking the valve body may be shot - hopefully it doesn't mean a full rebuild or reman unit :- I would still check the fluid level first, it would not be the first time I've seen a car right out of the dealer's that was low on fluid. Checking is a bit convoluted due to where the transmission is, but can still be done as a DIY; do a search in the archives for servicing the Tiptronic, it has been written up more than once. The speed sensor itself may be the only thing that needs changing, but unfortunately that entails removing the valve body to get at it. Not hard, but not fun either. JFP: dealer called back. The fluid is ok, it appears to be speed sensor which is in the valve body or the TCU or both. They said valve body is a $2500 or so part. Now the problem is that I don't think they can just change the speed sensor - appears they'd replace the whole valve body. If I were to just replace speed sensor n3, where can I buy such a part and how much would it cost? If i were to have to replace entire valve body do you know where I can buy it and cost? Thanks Both items are Porsche parts, suggest contacting Sunset Porsche in Beaverton, OR (503.641.8600) for pricing. VW and Mercedes also use the same parts as well.

The new DME will have to be coded with the IPAS code data from your current unit to work correctly with the other components in the car; that entails either a PST II or PIWIS unit and someone that knows what they are doing. You will also loose your current total mileage as that is specifically not changeable. Going with everything from another car would skip the programing, but you would still have the mileage issue and you would have to change the key pills over to your keys. I would think that just swapping the DME would be the most economical route.

OK, the P0175 is often a code often caused by something as simple as the fluid level being a little too low; are you sure the fluid level is correct? If the fluid level is correct, the speed sensor in question is mounted to a conductor plate on the top of the valve body in the transmission: Thanks.... Hi JFP, the thing is that the dealer replaced transmission and differential fluid in January using their highly precise method for doing so....by the book so as to speak, and I have tile flooring in my garage and would have seen leaks....so I'm thinking the valve body may be shot - hopefully it doesn't mean a full rebuild or reman unit :- I would still check the fluid level first, it would not be the first time I've seen a car right out of the dealer's that was low on fluid. Checking is a bit convoluted due to where the transmission is, but can still be done as a DIY; do a search in the archives for servicing the Tiptronic, it has been written up more than once. The speed sensor itself may be the only thing that needs changing, but unfortunately that entails removing the valve body to get at it. Not hard, but not fun either.

I just realized that you expect to get the new cables under warranty, which you will not unless the dealer does it under goodwill. There is a TSB which tells the dealer that the cables have been updated with a new part number to correct the earlier problems, but it is a TSB, not a recall, so it is informational only. Start a conversation with your service manager, but I'm pretty he may tell you that unless they can confirm an existing problem, they will not replace the cables for free...............

OK, that makes a lot of sense, thank you. I agree (now) that there was nothoing wrong with the sensors :) Based on a thread I read I would need to either replace the valve I purchased, or another valve ( http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=996-110-129-06-M100&catalog_description=&Regeneration%2520Valve%2520from%2520Throttle%2520Body%2520for%2520Fuel%2520Vapor%2520System%252C%2520Boxster%252FBoxster%2520S%2520%2528%2531%2539%2539%2537%252D%2530%2534%2529%252C%2520Each%2520 ) which I think is the one that runs under the intake previously mentioned. -Eric Picture is a bit poor, but that looks like the item. You should also blow air into the purge air line (item#3 in diagram): Thanks for the diagram. It's strange, I found this thread (http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/33970-strange-whistling-sound/?hl=%2Bstrange+%2Bwhistling+%2Bsound) last night and it references the valve I purchased being located basically behind the passenger side headlight. I think his was a MY '00, did they change things that much year over year? Thanks for all your help, it's been helpful. -Eric The drawing I gave you is from the 2001 OBD II diagnostics manual for the 986 Boxster, and is current and correct to my knowledge. But I need to point out that Loren is correct, there are valves at the EVAP canister, which is in the passenger's wheel well, as well us under the intake manifold; you need to be sure about which valve you are asking about, there is more than one..............and the one pictured in the thread you brought up is at the canister while the purge valve is under the intake runners.........

Try TSB 8/06 0101 Breakdowns Due To Loose Ground Strap -- dated Sep 13, 2006.

OK, that makes a lot of sense, thank you. I agree (now) that there was nothoing wrong with the sensors :) Based on a thread I read I would need to either replace the valve I purchased, or another valve ( http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=996-110-129-06-M100&catalog_description=&Regeneration%2520Valve%2520from%2520Throttle%2520Body%2520for%2520Fuel%2520Vapor%2520System%252C%2520Boxster%252FBoxster%2520S%2520%2528%2531%2539%2539%2537%252D%2530%2534%2529%252C%2520Each%2520 ) which I think is the one that runs under the intake previously mentioned. -Eric Picture is a bit poor, but that looks like the item. You should also blow air into the purge air line (item#3 in diagram):