Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Search the Community

Showing results for tags '986'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • 911
    • 992 Series (911 Carrera S, 4S) (MY2019 - )
    • 991-2 Series (911 Carrera, 4, S, 4S, GTS, 4 GTS, Targa 4, Targa 4S, T, GT3, Turbo, Turbo S, GT2 RS) (MY2017 - 2018)
    • 991-1 Series (911 Carrera, 4, S, 4S, GTS, 4 GTS, Targa 4, Targa 4S, 911 50, GT3, Turbo, Turbo S, GT2 RS) (MY2012 - 2016)
    • 997-2 Series (Carrera, GT3, TT, GT2) (MY2009 - 2012)
    • 997-1 Series (Carrera, GT3-2, TT, GT2) (MY2005 - 2008)
    • 996 Series (Carrera, GT3-1, TT, GT2) (MY1998 - 2005)
  • Boxster
    • 718 (982) Series (Boxster, Boxster S, Cayman, Cayman S, Boxster GTS, Cayman GTS) (MY2017 - )
    • 981/C Series (Boxster, Boxster S, Cayman, Cayman S, Cayman GTS, Cayman GT4) (MY2012 - 2016)
    • 987-2 Series (Boxster, Boxster S, Cayman, Cayman S, Cayman R) (MY2009 - 2012)
    • 987-1 Series (Boxster, Boxster S, Cayman, Cayman S) (MY2005 - 2008)
    • 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S) (MY1997 - 2004)
  • Cayenne
  • Macan
  • Panamera
  • Taycan
  • Older Model Porsches
  • Events and News
  • Special Offers
  • Other

Categories

  • Contributing Members Only
    • Tools and Diagnostics
    • Other files/documents
  • Public
  • Option Code Documents
    • Boxster
    • Carrera (911)
    • Carrera GT
    • Cayenne
    • Cayman
    • GT3
    • Macan
    • Panamera
    • 918 Spyder
    • Turbo / GT2
  • Service and Wear Parts List
    • Boxster
    • Carrera (911)
    • Carrera GT
    • Cayenne
    • Cayman
    • GT3
    • Macan (95B) (MY2015 - 2018)
    • Mission E
    • Panamera
    • 918 Spyder
    • Turbo / GT2

Categories

  • 911
    • 992 (911 Carrera) - DIY
    • 991-2 (911 Carrera) - DIY
    • 991-1 (911 Carrera) - DIY
    • 991 (Turbo, Turbo S) - DIY
    • 997-2 (Carrera) - DIY
    • 997-2 (Turbo) - DIY
    • 997-1 (Carrera) - DIY
    • 996 (Carrera) - DIY
    • 996 (GT3) - DIY
    • 996 (TT/GT2) - DIY
  • Boxster
    • 718 (Boxster, Cayman) - DIY
    • 981/C (Boxster, Cayman) - DIY
    • 987-2 (Boxster/Cayman) DIY
    • 987-1/987C1 (Boxster/Cayman) DIY
    • 986 (Boxster) DIY
  • Cayenne
    • 9YA (Cayenne) - DIY
    • 92A (Cayenne) - DIY
    • 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne) - DIY
  • Macan
    • 95B-2 (Macan) - DIY
    • 95B (Macan) - DIY
  • Panamera
  • Taycan

Categories

  • DIY Tutorial Videos
    • 986 Boxster
    • 981 Series
    • 993 Carrera
    • 996 Carrera
    • 997-1 Carrera
    • 991 Series
    • 996 Turbo
    • Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1)
    • Macan (95B)
  • Racing Videos
    • Professional Racing
    • Personal Track Events
  • Porsche Reviews
  • Rally Videos
  • Show/Demo Videos
    • Porsche Museum

TSB Categories

  • Boxster (986)
  • Boxster (981)
  • Boxster (987-1)
  • Boxster (987-2)
  • Boxster (718)
  • Carrera (996)
  • Carrera (997-1)
  • Carrera (997-2)
  • Carrera (991-1)
  • Carrera (991-2)
  • Carrera (992)
  • Carrera GT (980)
  • Cayenne (9PA)
  • Cayenne (9PA1)
  • Cayenne (92A)
  • Cayenne (9YA)
  • Cayman (981C)
  • Cayman (987C1)
  • Cayman (987C2)
  • GT3 (996)
  • GT3 (997)
  • GT3 (991)
  • Macan (95B)
  • Macan (95B-2)
  • Mission E
  • Panamera (970)
  • Panamera (971)
  • TT/GT2 (996)
  • TT/GT2 (997T)
  • TT/GT2 (997T2)
  • TT/GT2 (991)
  • Literature and Other

Categories

  • Cars for Sale
  • Parts for Sale
  • Tools for Sale
  • Items for Trade
  • Wanted

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Interests


From


Present cars


Future cars


Former cars

Found 33 results

  1. Tried googeleing it but couldn’t find what I was after. Was curious if anyone knows what type of flat 6 the 986 boxster has? Is it a a true boxer engine? Or a horizontally opposed flat V? True boxer meaning it has individual crank pins for each piston and is a true 180degree angle. Thanks in advance
  2. The rear window on my 2001 S has separated from the canvas, and the tan top is dingy and past its prime. I no longer have a garage, so I am forced to outsource it. I would appreciate some informed opinions. I'm looking at a GAAH A5 Acoustic glass window top. The dealer is saying $2,700-$3k installed. A reputable convertible/interior specialist is coming in at $2,200. The dealer talked about needing to buy additional sound insulation, clips and etc., which is either building in additional profit, or it may be totally justified because they have experience and might provide additional quality. I don't have an excess of cash for a 18 y/o car so I'm soliciting experienced opinions: Assuming the local top specialist is truly skilled at their game, should I expect that they can handle this, along with connecting the heating element? I doubt they have done many A5 Acoustic glass retrofits, whereas the dealer has likely done a few. If I go with the local specialists, are there some unique things I need to specify they order/replace/pay attention to? Should I give more weight to (a) Porsche dealer that only occasionally does a top or (b) the people who do tops all the time, but just not Porsches? All informed opinions are welcome. Thanks!
  3. Recently I had been noticing issues with my cooling system the coolant temp guage would go past the 0 on 180 and I wouldn’t hear fans or anything. (Already tested fans and resistors and relays). The temperature Will continue to creep up if I sit still, with no signs of fans, AC OFF. I replaced the coolant temp sensor. Problem fixed!! Then same issue again it seems after a week of driving. Now i currently have ordered another temp sensor just Incase I maybe did something to cause the other new one too fail, I’ll be changing it again today. However I was doing the climate control hack to check my actual temperatures today while doing a short troubleshooting drive. And I noticed my oil temperature said 0, which is physically impossible 🙄 Is it possible the oil temp guage is throwing off the coolant sensor? Is it even possible for the oil temp sensor too go bad but not the oil level sensor? (They are a 2 in 1 sensor) THANK YOU IN ADVANCE
  4. I need to replace the ATF wiring harness in my 2002 986 w/tiptronic due to a defective temperature sensor that forms part of it. I have been unable to find any information as to what it entails and / or how it can be replaced. Appreciate any insight.
  5. View this tutorial Radiator Grill Mesh and Painting The radiator grills on the 986 sit very low and thus tend to collect quite a bit of debris and garbage faster than other cars. The design of the radiators and front air intakes is such a way that any debris which enters the grill get jammed between the radiator and the inside of the front bumper body panel. Cleaning out your radiators and the garbage stuck behind the front bumper should be done periodically as leaving anything in there can cause inefficiencies to your cooling (A/C and engin Author mrplow911 Category Boxster (986) - Mods Submitted 03/23/2019 06:59 AM Updated 03/23/2019 06:59 AM  
  6. The radiator grills on the 986 sit very low and thus tend to collect quite a bit of debris and garbage faster than other cars. The design of the radiators and front air intakes is such a way that any debris which enters the grill get jammed between the radiator and the inside of the front bumper body panel. Cleaning out your radiators and the garbage stuck behind the front bumper should be done periodically as leaving anything in there can cause inefficiencies to your cooling (A/C and engine) and also rust your radiators once the debris gets wet. By adding mesh to the standard grill, using gutter guards for rain gutters, you can reduce the amount of debris which can enter your grill. This is a simple process and adds not only functional value, but I think it looks pretty great too. For me it took roughly 4 hours to access, clean the radiators and air intakes, and add the mesh to my front grills(not including painting the grills). Parts you'll need: • Gutter Guard (this is the same stuff you use for rain gutters on a house to keep leaves and junk from building up in the gutter) - Buy two sheets of this. • High gloss, black spray paint • Tiny black zip ties - nothing too thick, but don't go too wimpy either. You'll need about 4 zip ties. Tools you'll need: • Torx set • Vacuum • Aluminum shears • Wet rag and soap to wipe down the air intake duct which is likely dirty. I won't cover how to remove the front bumper, as that's available widely across Youtube, Renntech, and other DIY sites. Here's the Youtube video I used (https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=280&v=X2q54XtupVo). So we'll get started with this tutorial once you have the front bumper cover removed. 1. The first step is to remove the grills which are held in place with 4 plastic tabs and pull out from the inside of the front bumper cover. This is fairly straight forward – just be sure to follow the general rule of not trying to force anything! Use the images below to help. From this image, you can see 4 plastic tabs are used to secure the grill in place, while 3 tabs on top are flat and just used to align the grill. 2. With the grills out, it’s time to trace them on paper so you can cut your mesh correctly. I used a big sheet of painters drop paper, which I’ll later use when painting the grills, to trace around the whole perimeter of the grill piece. It’s important to trace around the whole piece rather than just the vent portion, because the grill is rounded and so the mesh will need to bend in order to make this a tight fit. If your mesh is too small debris will be able to make it past your grill. 3. Now it’s time to cut your gutter guard. Using the metal shears, cut the mesh to match the outline you traced in step 2. I found it easy to use a box knife to score and transfer the tracing from the paper to the gutter guard (since the gutter is painted, you just use the box knife to score the paint). Your cuts don’t need to be perfect. Mine aren’t rounded, but you’ll see that they still create a great seal for stopping junk. 4. This next step is optional, though it makes a big difference in terms of looks! I painted by grills. There’s nothing fancy you need to do when painting them. I applied three coats of paint just to ensure it was solid. Let them dry for at least a day or two or else the paint will easily chip. 5. The next step is to cut a whole out for the outside temp sensor which is sticks through the left grill (when looking at the car head on). Before cutting the hole for the sensor, be sure to test out your mesh by holding it against and fitting it (bending it to form) with the respective grill it’s for. This doesn’t need to be an exact science, and in this case it’s always better to cut less and test it rather than cut too much. I determined where the hole needed to be cut by holding the fitted mesh against the grill and scoring the part of the mesh which aligned with the hole on the grill. I cut a small rectangle that is about a half inch, or in my case three snips of the mesh. I probably couldn’t gone a bit smaller, but you can’t really notice. 6. Next step is to adhere the mesh to the grill. I did this a bit differently than others have since I didn’t’ want the mesh to be permanently attached to the grill. I used small black zip ties which aren’t visible when viewing the car but hold the mesh securely in place and allow it to be replaced if they become damaged or a future owner doesn’t want them. In the picture below you can see I used 4 zip ties for each grill. Two on the very bottom which help support the mesh from sliding down, and two at the very top which help the mesh from being pushed back into the intake duct. 7. The most difficult part of reassembly is aligning the outside temp sensor with the hole you made. Prior to having mesh installed this was simple because you could just put your fingers in the grill and guide it. There’s no trick to this, just take your time aligning it as you put the bumper panel back on. It doesn’t need to be aligned perfectly since you can use needle nose pliers to adjust it after the bumper panel is in place.
  7. Hello, I'm new on this forum and stumbled upon a new problem (or old) with my 2.5l 986 Boxster from 1997. The problem occurs when the engine is started dead cold after sitting a few hours/overnight. Engine starts immediately but the RPMs start to surge / hunt between 1100 and 700 RPM. This continues for about 10 seconds after which the idle smoothes out to the normal cold idle RPM. The first pull away requires a tad more throttle then normal to prevent stalling. After this first pull, everything is almost normal and engine performance becomes better and better. When the engine is hot, the idle sits at 780 RPM with a minor fluctuation now and then (seems to be more than normal) I've been to two shops (official Porsche dealer and local Porsche specialist). Porsche dealer couldn't find anything and the specialist found the camshaft sensor on the left bank to be unplugged - but now comes the strange thing - the cabling is nowhere to be found!!!!!!? Took the car home to check myself but didn't find anything. No camshaft related codes to be found in the diagnosis and no CEL either. Attached one pic showing the sensor and it's missing plug Could someone help me out? - Is it possible for the engine not to throw a CEL when sensor is disconnected? - where is the sensor wire to be found?
  8. Hello All, My A/C has been getting warmer over the last week to the point of just warm air. The compressor is engaging as I can see, hear, and watch the tach drop slightly as it does. I figured it just needed a quick recharge, but the low side pressure is ridiculously high at 90psi. Before I go and pull the world apart does anyone have experience with this scenario? Does this point to a bad compressor or Refrigerant Control Valve? I'm not really finding anything in the search dialog. I have a vacuum and used it on other cars, but have never seen this "overcharge" high pressure issue. I guess I'll try to lower the pressure first, but I have my doubts it will fix anything. Thanks in advance for any input. -k
  9. Hey everyone, i own a 2010 porsche Boxter 2.9L with the PDK transmission.. yesterday after leaving the car for a 4 days i started it and went for a drive.. when i turned it on again, i got a warning message “emergency transmission run” and the car became very jerky through gearshifts and wouldnt accelerate properly.. after turning it on and off the message went away and it drove just fine but then it kept re-appearing mid drives and becomes very jerky and clunky...ive noticed since i had the car that the gearbox was sometimes clunky or would make a noise when changing gear but the dealership said that was fine and normal since its a PDK, the car is at 59,000km so its time for a transmission fluid change... could this be a low voltage problem, or transmission fluid? The reverse gear works just fine.. has this happened to any other owners?
  10. Late 2004 Boxster Base Tiptronic with 45,000 miles I have racked up 15,000 miles over the last 3 years of ownership. The coolant was flushed about a year prior to purchase. I think it's time to flush the coolant. I plan to buy the Airlift tool - it's a time vs cost issue, time wins. I know from searching that JFP has recommended to others to replace the water pump as preventative maintenance on a car this age. Fair enough. Porsche pump, clean the mating surfaces carefully and: 1. Use gasket sealant or no sealant? 2. Should I replace the coolant reservoir even though I cannot find anything wrong with it? I'll replace the thermostat at the same time. 3. Should it be the 160 degree thermostat? 3a. I notice that the car runs between 190 - 210 degrees (using Scangauge) most of the time in warm weather, so will the 160 stat be a benefit? 4. Which hoses should be replaced? 5. Anything else? Since the start of ownership I've done mostly preventative and general maintenance with very few actual failures of any kind. With that being said, I think mileage is beginning to expose some common failures cropping up like what happened yesterday - the turn signal stalk won't hold in-place, so now I need to replace it but at least getting the 4-stalk version will give me the OBC functions.
  11. Me and my dad have recently bought a 2001 Porsche Boxster that has not been run in 2 years, as a "fairly easy" project to start with. So where to begin we did all the basics for a car that hasn't run in 2 years, we replaced the spark plugs and tubes, so then when we tried to throw some gas in it wont let us, we have checked the E6 fuse as was suggested on other forums, we slowly threw in some gas at a time, about 5 gallons in total. When we tried to start it it didn't, so when we tried to troubleshoot we found that it has no spark. So does anyone have any idea or suggestions on how to fix any or all of these things?
  12. Having an issue with the heater in my 2000 Boxster S. It fogs up the windows when the heater is on. If I turn the AC button on the fog stops but the air temperature is no longer hot or warm even. The moisture coming out seems to have an odd smell to it. It's either old nasty water or perhaps antifreeze. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  13. Hi All My first post here so please bear with me but pretty desperate for help. Have 2004 Boxster S and its, in general, running a bit rough (feels fuel rich). It also will also, on occasion, not go. Pulling up at a busy intersection and car reduces to Idle. Then put the foot down and the car stays at idle. Normally an engine restart gets things going again (although not always and sometimes requires a few goes). Bought a computer reader and found error codes P0102: Factory Fault code 115 - Mass air flow sensor - below limit P2135: Accelerator Pedal - Signal Implausible P0121: Factor Fault code 117 - Throttle value or accelerator pedal potentiometer - signal implausible P1266: Factory Fault Code 409 - Fuel shutoff function monitor - signal implausible Took the car to Porsche. They suggest a MAF sensor was the root cause and replaced it. It felt better for a few days then problem returned. They replaced another MAF sensor.. Same problem. They then said the MAF reads 0 and have checked the cables so its me DME and it needs replacing (not cheap) Have taken the car back home and looked at the likely affecting values myself from the computer. 1. MAF. The computer shows to different values for MAF Mass air flow (HFM) is always 0 regardless of if the car is working correctly or not and at any accelerator level Mass air flow seems to move within a range of 18 (idle) to 100 (full throttle) 2. Throttle (since it had error codes on this) Pedal encoder potentiometer 1 and 2 always move and the pedal value goes from 0-100% when its working but stays at 0 when its not. Since the potentiometers always move I am assuming the DME simply can't add things up so sticks the pedal value at 0. ie. The MAF sensor reading above confuses the DME and it reduces the throttle to 0. That feel consistent with the behaviour of the car (its just sticks at idle) Any one with any clues? Certainly don't want to replace the DME unless absolutely necessary.... HELP?
  14. I have a 1997 Boxster with 30,000 miles. The battery is charged and the car starts and runs fine. However, I cannot open the hood or trunk with the levers next to the drivers seat when the door is open! When I press the interlock switch on the dash nothing happens. The light stays on. Any ideas??
  15. Just got a 98 Boxster for my Birthday. Now I have two Porsches! First question is: can I drive it for a few more days on the old oil until I get it changed this weekend. The car has 57K miles. Last owner changed oil 1.5K miles ago. So he drove the car very little over the last year since the last oil change, but it's been a year. It's fairly dry here in Colorado, and the car has always been garaged. Should I change immediately, or can drive it a few hundred miles until I get the oil changed this weekend? IMS failure a huge issue on these 98's? The oil looks clear and like new when I check on the dipstick. The engine sounds excellent. I can hear the chain rattle momentarily when I start it cold. Also, plan to use Driven DT40 oil that I have an extra case of (bought it for my Cayenne, but have enough to do the Boxster) and it's 5W40. Thanks! I'm really enjoying the car -- it's not a 420 HP MKIV that used to have, but it's almost as fun. Mike
  16. Let me preface with mentioning that I am not a mechanic .. The vehicle history I'm referencing was my fathers 2004 Boxster. He was elderly and drove the car infrequently such that the original mileage up to today is 11,500 mi. When my dad passed away he kindly left the vehicle to me. Shortly after receiving it, timed exactly with the first time I engaged the Tiptronic shifting, the dreaded flashing 4 occurred. On visiting a local Porsche mechanic/garage, and with OBD analysis, he reported the multifunction switch had failed and will require replacement. Coincidentally at this visit he inquired if the vehicle was not driven for extended periods - which it was. At the same time I requested the service records of the vehicle at the Porsche dealership. Within the records I found a service item that was replacement of the multifunction switch when the odo was sitting at 9,500 mi. The order was dated 22 months ago. To the point of this post - I believe the action of multifunction switch is to swivel to varied positions that set the next gear. That the mechanic had inquired about the usage characteristics, i.e. sitting unused for extended periods, leads me to sense that the switch is 'stuck' in one position. If this may be the case, would it not be possible to remove the unit and apply the factory lubricant and re-install .. or is the lack of movement catastrophic and requires replacement? Thanks! ..
  17. Is anyone familiar with the one-piece LED replacement headlights for the 986 Boxster. There are a number of them available on eBay from a variety of vendors, including xtrememotorcars and MK AUTOWORLD. They claim to be a simple, no modification, swap. I'm skeptical, but if it works, it would be an affordable and good-looking replacement solution.
  18. Hi All, I am finally done replacing radiator fans and heater core. And then tried to start my 986 base and I got several message on the dash and the car does not crank. - Failure Oil Level Indicator - PSM failure Indicator -Airbag Failure so I thought the batter is low and charged it overnight and tried again this morning. Same thing. Any ideas. the car was in running condition prior to this job. Any ideas where some thing would have gone wrong.?
  19. Hi Guys I thought of changing the o-rings in coolant bleeder and order two o-rings small and large. But once I removed all the 8 bolts around the bleeder I got the cap our but I don't see where the o-rings go. I even doubted if I my Boxster has the o-ring type of bleeder. Attached are the pictures please help me get to those old o-rings if at all they exists in my car.
  20. I have an 03 Boxster with 95k on the clock. When you first start driving the car, everything is tight and quiet. After about 25 - 30 miles, the front start to knock lightly and rumble. Most noticeable between 0 and 30mph in queuing traffic. You can feel the knocks on the steering wheel and brake pedal. The further you go the worse it gets. The sound is like a bolt being jarred in a plastic bottle. Up to now it has had new bake disks and pads. Track rod ends and wishbones replaced and something That looks like coffin struts changed. Wheels and tyres have been checked. When the knocking started, the brake warning light came on. The front sensors have been changed so the warning lights don't come on when the knocking starts. I am not mechanically minded but In my mind its a brake problem as the issue only shows up after driving for about 30 miles and things are starting to warm up. The garage cannot identify the issue and have run out of ideas. Can anyone suggest or identify the problem as I have been replacing bits without success
  21. So I was watching a YouTube video on how to clean my throttle body. It was very thorough except for one thing. It never mentioned anything about the two small tubes that insert into the gasket that connects the plenum to the intake manifolds. I've searched and can find no info on what these tubes are. I snapped one and am not looking forward to trying to run a new one. If I could just leave it off that would be best.
  22. Hi everyone, I've been reading the RT Forums for a while but now I'm finally registered in order to try and track down an issue I've been having. I've searched for related issues through the forums already, but nothing is showing up which is a match for mine. '99 2.5, 5 Speed, 99K Miles Only upgrades are headers and catback. I've owned the car since March of this year and it's been great so far. I've even taken it to the local PCA Autocross. A couple of weeks ago I was cruising on the freeway when my CEL came on steady, no blink. There was no noise or indication to me that anything had gone wrong, the car kept running completely as usual. When I got it home I plugged in my code reader and got a cylinder 5 misfire. I had been planning on a spark plug job anyway, so I got new spark plug tubes the next day as well as 6 plugs and did the job. I reset the CEL for the drive to my garage space, but on the way there I got a real misfire under heavy acceleration that felt and sounded like the engine was really struggling. It did go away after a few seconds, though. Whomever was the last person/garage to do the plugs on the car was a complete idiot and should never touch a car again. None of the spark plugs were torqued, and were all finger tight. The cylinder 5 plug was covered in dirty oil and had BOTH of its electrodes snapped off. God only knows where they ended up, but it didn't seem to be in the engine, so that's good I guess. Once I replaced all the the plug tubes and actually torqued down the plugs themselves, the engine seemed to fire up fine, plus I was no longer getting a ticking on idle that I thought might be a valve issue. I guess things sound a lot better when the spark plugs are tightened. Since I thought that cleared things up, I drove it home, and on the way found space to put my foot down. As soon as the pedal reached the floor, the misfiring started again, with the engine again getting super rough and struggling. Once I got home I was able to recreate the issue in my driveway by just pinning the throttle and letting the misfires happen again. Just to be sure the computer didn't still have some wonky settings in it, I disconnected the battery for 30 minutes to let everything reset. Since then I've been pretty scared to go WOT, but a few days ago I did and the exact same thing happened again. That code indicated cylinders 2 and 3. Last night I did it again and the code showed cylinder 2. Unfortunately, the miss didn't go away immediately like it usually does, so it followed me home. Still, it went back to normal as soon as I turned off the engine and restarted. Long story short: I'm getting a rough misfire when I go to full throttle, happens pretty much the instant the pedal hits the floor. Usually goes away within a few seconds. No other symptoms, idles and run completely as normal at all other times. No CEL if I don't trigger the misfire with the gas pedal. Any ideas? EDIT: Also, it doesn't appear to be a symptom of revs. The miss starts when the pedal goes to WOT, not when the revs climb past a certain mark. I've revved it quite high at partial throttle with no issue. My code reader says the miss last night started at 3800 rpm, but full throttle.
  23. I have had a good run with my 986 and no problems for a good while, but nothing lasts forever... In the last month the car will randomly stall and refuse to start back up for an undefined period of time. When it happens all the lights on the dash will flash on as if the key has just been turned to the on position. The starter will crank the engine happily but there is no ignition happening. This will last for an unknown amount of time (20 min or a day) and then the car will start right up again. Only to stall out later at some unknown point. (15 min or 1 hour). I have hooked the durametric up to it each time and got nothing, except the last time. P1571 fault 39, pointing to the immobilizer. After searching I came upon this thread from 2009, that describes exactly what I am experiencing, but a solution was never posted. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/28462-cranks-but-wont-start-help-please/ So to get down to point, I have a few trouble shooting questions and steps I will take next; 1.) The ignition switch has been giving me the traditional issues and it probably needs to be replaced (again). If the electronics in the plastic switch are going bad, could they cause this? Engine stall, clean crank with no start-up? 2.) could the P1571 be attributed to a freak accident during the stall that confused the car since I never got this error before? After I cleared it and cranked it with no start, there were no new fault codes. 3.) Im reading conflicting info on crank position sensors. Will they relay a fault code, or not? 4.) I have tried both keys, ruling out a bad key transmitter. 5.) I will check the immobilizer under the seat, but don't expect any water damage. 6.) I will check all the relays. Sorry for the long winded explanation. If anyone has a history with this, or any insight to #1,#2, or #3, please share.
  24. Hi - this is my first post so I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I tried search (google) but think my search skills stink or really can find an answer so forgive me if this has been asked!! The Car: 97 Boxster with Tiptronic, 89k miles. The IMS, RMS, water pump were replaced when i bought the car. I've owned the car about a year and have no idea when the tranny fluid filter was done.(no tiptronic problems). The Problem: Today I decided to performed the trans. fluid / filter change. I followed the technical article posted on Pelican and didn't have any problems until it came time to run the car through the gears. When it came time to shift (R, 1st, 2nd, etc.) I was expecting the rear axles to turn and they didn't. So, that didn't bother me too much until it went to put the car in park. When i did i got a very audible clicking sound coming from what i assume was the transmission. It eventually stopped (as if the transmission stopped turning) but now i'm worried something is broken. Some notes: The old fluid looked very similar to what you seen in the pelican article (blackish) When i drained the transmission i recovered +/- 5 quarts of fluid when i expected roughly 3.5.I replaced all 5 with Pentosin ATF 1 Not much 'sludge' in the pan or accumulation around the magnets. nothing smelled burnt. Could this be a simple shifter linkage problem? (all the gear indicator lights seem to light up properly when i shift/select manual mode) Does it need MORE ATF ?(I'd like to add more ATF (if it needs it) but am terrified that if i try this procedure again I'll wreck the trans (if it isn't already).) One last question - when the transmission is in park, should i be able to turn the axles? If anyone can help a noob I'd appreciate it. :thumbup: Thanks! joe
  25. I'm getting ready to put my engine back in after rebuilding it and I was wondering if I am going to need to have a rear wheel alignment done afterward. You have to take off so many brackets, braces, and supports that I'm feel like the whole procedure would throw the alignment out of whack. My problem is that my nearest Porsche shop is 50 miles away and I wouldn't want to have to drive it there with the alignment out badly. Any thoughts or advice?? Tom
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.