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By Kevin Bryck
Okay this is REALLY specific.
The adjustable tension cable on the drivers side of my cabriolet disconnected at the top where it threads (8mm) into the top frame, not at the bottom where it snaps onto the ball.
The is a larger diameter (10mm?) clean smooth painted hole where the cable needs to thread in, which leads to the presumption that there was a nut on the back side?
Searched all over including removing driver's side rear 'door' panel and fishing around with a magnet but no loose nut found.
Looks like getting to back side of this frame casting would entail a major disassembly of the cabriolet top frame?
Also, what does this clip that goes over hydraulic cylinder do?
Right side clips is in place about halfway down length of cylinder.
Left side clip was down around the base of the shaft.
Replacing it where there appears to be a shiny spot looks like it would interfere with the cabriolet top potentiometer arm.
Right cable threaded into frame at top
Right cable threaded into frame at top
Missing cable location
Smooth clean painted hole in top frame where 8mm cable end is supposed to thread in
Left upper cable end with 8mm thread
By Kevin Bryck
Cabriolet side/mud flaps are actuated by this lead screw which is attached to the shaft of the drive motor.
If your tops gets out of synch as mine did when the bolt that holds a side arm casting to the hydraulic piston fell out, then it creates a cascading nightmare of fragile part failures.
First that spindly potentiometer arm with the lightening holes to save a hundredth of gram of plastic breaks off, now these.
This tiny molded soft plastic nut runs on what I measure as a M8 x 1.5 pitch lead screw, which is apparently less common than the M8 x 2 pitch lead screw used in 3D printers.
It is ridiculous to replace the entire side flap assembly because this soft plastic lead screw nut gets run to the end and stripped/cracked so it runs too slow and the computer times out.
Has anyone sourced this lead screw nut or a replacement M8 x 1.5 pitch lead screw nut with a triangular or round flange that could be cut down square to insert into the carrier that operates the flap?
I just bought myself my first Porsche, a 1998 Boxster. I have an issue with the soft top that I'd like to get some guidance on.
The top goes down smoothly with no issues. It also comes up smoothly until it is nearly all the way up. Just before the dashboard Top light goes out, there is a pretty sharp metallic twang or snap. It did this when I was looking at the car before purchase, and it did it again this evening when I put the top up after driving the car home. I'm assuming it's getting caught on something but I wonder if anyone might have suggestions on what to look at given the late point in the cycle where it occurs?
After 18yrs my convertible top has finally encountered its first issue. After using this forum (thank you!!) to figure out how to access all of the components (top was stuck in closed position), I found the root of my issue, a bad cable. However, as I was very carefully removing the cable from the transmission, the "clip" which is molded into the plastic cover cracked and is no longer functional (see image). Not really surprising on an 18yr old piece of plastic. The transmission works perfectly and I do not want to replace it, so I am looking for advice on any other ways that I can keep the cable properly engaged to the transmission. Please let me know if anyone else has encountered this and if there are any viable solutions. Thank you!
I am completely flummoxed by this noise I am getting in my 2004 Turbo Cab. A couple nights ago while driving home with the top down, I noticed a rattle different from the normal sound of the motor and not accelerating/decelerating with changes in engine RPM. It occurred at 1800-2000 rpm and was most noticeable when decelerating in 2nd gear in my neighborhood at slow speeds (~20MPH)... with a helper on the throttle and the engine compartment open, it sounds like it is coming from the right side-top of the engine, around the Hydraulic reservoir. Putting a spanner/wrench on the component and up to the temple seems to have confirmed this as the source. I checked my manual and the Pentosin level (mid range on the HOT side of the dipstick at operating temp) I realize that Porsche recommends checking at 20C but I live in Texas now and that won't happen until November. Just out of curiosity I looked at the clutch reservoir up front and after removing the gooey trim cover, found it leaking (Seeping) from the recently replaced cap and appearing to be overfilled. The car has never really been operated in the 8 years I have had it in particularly high average temperatures, so I am hoping that the front is thermal expansion. Any thoughts on this matter are greatly appreciated... Loren? What Say You??
Thanks in advance,