Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Uh oh.

'99 Boxster with 160K was leaking a bit of coolant for a bit, then after a trip to the grocery store, steam started shooting out from coolant reservoir in trunk, and coolant starting pouring out of underside, by passenger side R wheel.

post-5014-0-06186400-1343265933_thumb.jp

It was like a teapot. . .

post-5014-0-68910100-1343265987_thumb.jp

. . .but that's not tea.

I'm going to guess this is not a fix I can do myself.

Anybody want to guess what it is, so I can tell the guys at the shop?

What should I expect to pay?

Shop is 20 mins from here, with significant highway driving. Can I dump distilled H2O to limp my car down there, or do I need a tow?

Thanks as always, friends.

B

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

Yes, distilled water works. However, are you sure you can make it to the shop before too much coolant leaks out? You don't want to risk overheating your motor.

My guess, based on the info you provided, is the coolant reservoir is cracked. Do you have coolant under the carpet in the trunk?

http://www.pedrosgar..._Reservoir.html

Edited by bar10dah

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, I forgot to say that I got rid of the old coolant reservoir several years ago, after I had the standard "coolant leaks into my trunk" issue. No coolant in the trunk this time.

B

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So could be the coolant expanded and is pouring out of the overflow. Or could be you have a cracked/loose hose around the area of that leak. Hard to say. Try to get under there and have a look around.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can't there be a crack where the coolant reservoir meets the motor? Old motor mounts allowing too much movement?

For some reason, other forums this week are full of stories about how guys have cooked their engines by driving after they got warnings of coolant problems. Aluminum engines can get damaged really quickly by air bubbles in the cooling system allowing hot spots to lurk just where cooling is needed. Been there, cost me an Alfa engine. I only tried to drive the same distance. And the Boxster fix is $4 to $40k.

Have you inspected the area around the water pump?

So unless you have been able to locate the cause, fix the problem and then fill the cooling system and pressure test it and pull all the air out with a vacume pump, I'd swallow the expense and get my local flatbed to get you to the best mechanic you can find.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

when this coolant overflow happened on my 01 boxster, it was just the reservoir cap not holding up under pressure after a long drive. Replaced with the updated part and it fixed it.

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks exactly what mine did last week...water pump failure. And noises from the pulley area? I could not locate my leak, but noticed the water pump pulley was against the housing. I pulled the belt and...pulley shaft is super loose...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By Philip54
      The red light on the coolant temperature gauge of my car occasionally (but in recent times more frequently) flashes slowly (0.5 Hz).
       
      In a post dated 7/30/2018 Loren listed four conditions for the light to come on.  The two conditions for which the light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) are the following:
       
      Engine coolant too low
      Engine compartment temperature too high
       
      None of these conditions applies to my car.
       
      The light comes on after about 20 minutes of driving and it seems to be triggered (but not always) by running the engine above 4,500-5,000 RPM (with coolant temperature at normal values and, I assume, engine compartment temperature also at normal values.  This is not driving in heavy traffic, this is normal out of town driving ).
       
      Using  the Porsche tester it was possible to establish that the engine compartment fan works.  However,  it does not come on when I drive the car in traffic and the coolant temperature gets to 215F.  This, I would assume, should cause the engine compartment temperature to become elevated and the fan to run.
       
      The engine compartment sensor, located on the passenger side intake manifold, is installed properly  and seems to read the temperature of the engine compartment correctly.
       
      Any thoughts on what is going on?
       
      Thanks
       
    • By Philip54
      When we replaced the coolant in my car in 2013, we used coolant Porsche part number  ‘000-043 -301-05-M100’(pre-mixed).  The color, based on a little quantity left in one of the 2013 bottles, was red. The coolant in the car seems yellow now.
      I have just topped off the coolant today, using Porsche coolant part number  ‘000-043 -305 15’, red color (I mixed it with water, 50%).
      Could somebody please confirm that the 2 coolants are compatible?
      Thanks
    • By TechSavvySam
      I'd appreciate a second set of eyes to verify these part numbers.  
      2003 C2 6MT
       
      Red Arrow: 996-106-233-56
       
      Green Arrow: 996-106-212-61
       
      Yellow Arrow: 996-106-222-67
       
      I'm least sure of the 3rd one but it looks like they simplified it for the Mk2 but didn't bother to update the Illustration because one end of this has 2 connections in the illustration but mine doesn't and the picture on Pelican Parts looks like mine, so I think I'm right.
       
      Thanks for the help!

    • By Garra671
      Recently I had been noticing issues with my cooling system the coolant temp guage would go past the 0 on 180 and I wouldn’t hear fans or anything. (Already tested fans and resistors and relays).   The temperature Will continue to creep up if I sit still, with no signs of fans, AC OFF.

      I replaced the coolant temp sensor. Problem fixed!! Then same issue again it seems after a week of driving.  

      Now i currently have ordered another temp sensor just Incase I maybe did something to cause the other new one too fail, I’ll be changing it again today.

      However I was doing the climate control hack to check my actual temperatures today while doing a short troubleshooting drive. And I noticed my oil temperature said 0, which is physically impossible 🙄


      Is it possible the oil temp guage is throwing off the coolant sensor?    Is it even possible for the oil temp sensor too go bad but not the oil level sensor? (They are a 2 in 1 sensor)   

      THANK YOU IN ADVANCE
    • By Zacatecaluca
      Hello All,
      The car has been awesome 2006 987.1 30k miles. The other day i took it for a drive and stopped after about 150 miles for about 30miins when I came out, all my coolant was on the floor. I refilled the coolant and constantly checked the temperature, initially it edged up to 180F but then settled back down to 175F and stayed that way all the way home. I was driving gently and kept cheeking the coolant level. Since then I found that I needed to open the coolant needle valve and drive around for 3 or 4 days to bleed the cooling system. I'm on day 2 and the coolant level has gone down slightly. Whenever I stop I check the floor and there has been no coolant leak.
      I am baffled, anyone seen this before?
      Thanks.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.