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Secondary Air Test Readiness monitor incomplete with O2 voltage graph


Go to solution Solved by Rochan,

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Using Torque

Here are the O2 voltage, fuel trim and RPM from a cold start this morning.

I did not get the chance to log after a warmed engine.

 

I saw that the Catalyst and EVAP monitor is already back at the "Ready" status after 2 drive cycles.

SAI remains incomplete.

 

Would a log during a drive would help as well?

 

post-104899-0-63571700-1455058059_thumb.

post-104899-0-66704100-1455058060_thumb.

post-104899-0-90062000-1455058336_thumb.

Edited by Rochan
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The plots look fine to me. A log during drive would not add much info but Durametric read out of FRA and TRA will give us more clues about the 1128/1130 codes.

These are the values on the cold start:

 

Adaption range 2 (FRA) bank 1 - 1.01

Adaption range 1 (RKAT) bank 1 - 2.67

 

Adaption range 2 (FRA) bank 2 - 0.98

Adaption range 1 (RKAT) bank 2 - 2.58

Edited by Rochan
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Those numbers look great. Do they look similar after the engine has warmed up? If so, perhaps just drive the car longer and see if the 1128/1130 will develope into a CEL.

 

Here are the number. This is after a 30mi drive.

 

Adaption range 2 (FRA) bank 1 - 1

Adaption range 1 (RKAT) bank 1 - 3.05

 

Adaption range 2 (FRA) bank 2 - 0.98

Adaption range 1 (RKAT) bank 2 - 3

 

Then the number increased after 2-3 mins idle. Then the two code came back to fault memory.

 

Adaption range 2 (FRA) bank 1 - 1

Adaption range 1 (RKAT) bank 1 - 4.5

 

Adaption range 2 (FRA) bank 2 - 0.98

Adaption range 1 (RKAT) bank 2 - 4.5

post-104899-0-08244500-1455133956_thumb.

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If I'm not mistaken, the +4.5 on both bank at 2-3 min idle is in %. i.e., +4.5% on both banks - engine running lean at idle. So either intake air leak or fuel pressure is a bit too low at idle.

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If I'm not mistaken, the +4.5 on both bank at 2-3 min idle is in %. i.e., +4.5% on both banks - engine running lean at idle. So either intake air leak or fuel pressure is a bit too low at idle.

Yes, it's in %.

Questions:

Does intake air leak includes the oil filler tubes portion? I assume this mean it's time to do the carb cleaner spray on possible suspect?

Which components should I cover?

How do I check about the fuel pressure?

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Yes, intake air leak also includes the oil filler as any leak here also creates a path for air to enter the throttle un-metered (via the AOS hose connected to the throttle body) .

 

You should cover all the air connections PASSED the MAF. Then the whole vacuum system:

- all vacuum lines

- all changeover valves that are connected to the vacuum lines

- the vacuum reservoir

- all AOS lines and their connections to the AOS, crankcase and throttle body

- oil filler tube

- brake booster vacuum connection at the intake manifold

- the intake plenums and runners

 

To check fuel pressure, you need to hook up a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail (schrader valve).

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I popped off the AOS's j-pipe and found small amount of oil on the TB side.

Also I saw some oil mark on top of the oil filler pipe and some small area of oil on the top of the engine beneath the oil filler pipe.

 

On the left picture, you could see the red and blue arrow pointing to the oil on top of the engine.

Yellow arrow pointing to oil on top of the oil filler pipe. Brown arrow is just pointing out the oil found at J pipe

 

What is that part with the red arrow pointing to on the right side?

post-104899-0-88340000-1455257942_thumb.

post-104899-0-43585200-1455257945_thumb.

Edited by Rochan
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  • 2 weeks later...

What I ended up doing is that I replaced the middle portion of the oil filler pipe and the y-connector tube from the AOS to the intake.

Also, I ran 20oz of the techron cleaner and have driven for about a tank of gas since then.

Sprayed around these areas as suggested with carb cleaner:

 

all vacuum lines

- all changeover valves that are connected to the vacuum lines

- the vacuum reservoir

- all AOS lines and their connections to the AOS, crankcase and throttle body

- oil filler tube

- brake booster vacuum connection at the intake manifold

- the intake plenums and runners

^ Didn't find any RPM changes  :(

 

With only the engine cover on and no sound dampening foam, I could still hear the a slight sound of air getting sucked in and get released:

1) when I rev the car in neutral or during the drive

2) when I am completely off the throttle and get back on the throttle.

^ Would this still the be the cause of my problem?

 

I didn't get to do the fuel pressure test yet.

I will be driving the car more this week and see if there's the warm idle lean condition would still happen. (P1128 and P1130)

 

Thoughts and suggestions?

:help:

Edited by Rochan
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Two things...

 

1. I replaced my AOS this past weekend after getting a P1128 and P1130 codes thrown.  Quick check is by trying to remove the oil cap with engine in idle.  A bad AOS will make it difficult to remove.  I had much difficulty removing mine when it failed while idling.  Everything works great now.  I've you lived nearby... I would help.

 

2. Regarding your Secondary Air Test Readiness monitor incomplete...  It will never set the complete flag if you DON'T drive it within the first 90-120 seconds after a cold start.  Once that Secondary Air Pump shuts down after the cold start.... it won't set.  So... DRIVE it after you start it... then it will set.... no big deal.

 

I too live in California.... if you are looking to smog it...for your year... you can pass smog if the evaporative system is not ready.

https://www.bar.ca.gov/pdf/Smog_Check_OBD_Reference_Guide.pdf

 

Cold start, DRIVE it... then check the readiness monitor.

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  • Solution

Update:

 

Found there was a vacuum line going to the AOS is loose, which is probably the suspect of the air leak that caused P1128 and P1130.

Drove the car and the Catalyst monitor is now complete.

The Fuel trim while idling after the engine is warmed looks fine now. Haven't seen any pending P1128 or P1130.

 

In regards to the Secondary Air Injection, it is still incomplete. Only had couple cold start since the vacuum line fix.

Do I need to have the AC and the defroster on during the cold start?

 

rprieto, the pump shuts off after about 2m - 2m15s. Do you mean to drive the car within 90-120 seconds after the pump shuts off? Or do yo mean to drive the car 90-120 seconds after the engine turns over?

 

Two things...

 

1. I replaced my AOS this past weekend after getting a P1128 and P1130 codes thrown.  Quick check is by trying to remove the oil cap with engine in idle.  A bad AOS will make it difficult to remove.  I had much difficulty removing mine when it failed while idling.  Everything works great now.  I've you lived nearby... I would help.

 

2. Regarding your Secondary Air Test Readiness monitor incomplete...  It will never set the complete flag if you DON'T drive it within the first 90-120 seconds after a cold start.  Once that Secondary Air Pump shuts down after the cold start.... it won't set.  So... DRIVE it after you start it... then it will set.... no big deal.

 

I too live in California.... if you are looking to smog it...for your year... you can pass smog if the evaporative system is not ready.

https://www.bar.ca.gov/pdf/Smog_Check_OBD_Reference_Guide.pdf

 

Cold start, DRIVE it... then check the readiness monitor.

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Drive it immediately after a cold start.  In your case, drive it BEFORE 2m15s.  If all is will, it will be set. 

BTW: The system will always check this upon cold start.  MOST of the time I let my car idle for a couple of mins in the AM and PM.  As such, the Secondary Air Test is rarely set.

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Drive it immediately after a cold start.  In your case, drive it BEFORE 2m15s.  If all is will, it will be set. 

BTW: The system will always check this upon cold start.  MOST of the time I let my car idle for a couple of mins in the AM and PM.  As such, the Secondary Air Test is rarely set.

Mmm, ok. I will try this. This seems opposite of what all other drive cycle guideline's instruction - which is to let the car idle 2-5mins.

 

Has anyone seen the status would flip right away after the pump shuts down or do I have to perform the full drive cycle?

Edited by Rochan
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I think this is worth trying even though it's not too intuitive. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

 

Drive it immediately after a cold start.  In your case, drive it BEFORE 2m15s.  If all is will, it will be set. 

BTW: The system will always check this upon cold start.  MOST of the time I let my car idle for a couple of mins in the AM and PM.  As such, the Secondary Air Test is rarely set.

Mmm, ok. I will try this. This seems opposite of what all other drive cycle guideline's instruction - which is to let the car idle 2-5mins.
 

Has anyone seen the status would flip right away after the pump shuts down or do I have to perform the full drive cycle?

 

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I am still experiencing the SAI still being in the incomplete status :huh:  

 

Here are the O2 readings from three different cold start:

2 in the morning and 1 in the evening after work

post-104899-0-55549600-1457132305_thumb.

post-104899-0-46224900-1457132306_thumb.

post-104899-0-05470700-1457134361_thumb.

Edited by Rochan
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Plots look good. I think it's time to visit a shop to force the tests.

 

I was about to go drop off the car to the shop today.

This morning the status finally switched to ready status! 

This is after 2 tank of gas ~ 500mi with about 3-5 complete drive cycles.

 

Anyways, I went to the smog shop and passed. Now I could wait for my sticker from DMV.

 

Thank you everyone for their patience and helping me along the way.

Edited by Rochan
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