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By Ravi Matharu
My 99 996 has started beeping twice when I press the key fob.
It locks and then immediately unlocks.
Also when opening the drivers side door, the window goes down when handle is pulled but goes straight back up when the handle is released. So the window obstructs the door closing.
I have the following Durametric Alarm errors:
Voltage failure during alarm
Status: not present
Frequency counter: 1 10
Voltage failure at terminal 30
with alarm system active
Status: not present
Frequency counter: 1 46
Control locking synchronization
Status: not present
Frequency counter: 2 49
Status: not present
Frequency counter: 1 21
W lead ( DME immobilizer)
Status: not present
Frequency counter: 1
What's the best way to proceed with fixing this?
The rear window on my 2001 S has separated from the canvas, and the tan top is dingy and past its prime. I no longer have a garage, so I am forced to outsource it. I would appreciate some informed opinions.
I'm looking at a GAAH A5 Acoustic glass window top. The dealer is saying $2,700-$3k installed. A reputable convertible/interior specialist is coming in at $2,200. The dealer talked about needing to buy additional sound insulation, clips and etc., which is either building in additional profit, or it may be totally justified because they have experience and might provide additional quality. I don't have an excess of cash for a 18 y/o car so I'm soliciting experienced opinions:
Assuming the local top specialist is truly skilled at their game, should I expect that they can handle this, along with connecting the heating element? I doubt they have done many A5 Acoustic glass retrofits, whereas the dealer has likely done a few. If I go with the local specialists, are there some unique things I need to specify they order/replace/pay attention to? Should I give more weight to (a) Porsche dealer that only occasionally does a top or (b) the people who do tops all the time, but just not Porsches?
All informed opinions are welcome.
I have a tough question for any advanced Renntech users who have either stripped a 997 back to minimum wiring for racing, or fixed key issues
Can anyone help with my alarm issues.
Im building a 997 Track car- using a salvage chassis and the remaining parts from a rolled and written off cabriolet. Im think the key worked to unlock to car before i pulled it apart, but cant be certain as the engine was already out so there were limit functions to activate then.
Since moving the dashboard and whole wiring loom into race chassis, I can unlock the doors (yes, its the correct key, ive moved the doors over too), and the dashboard lights up to tell me the current odometer values. However the whole time from when the battery is connected, the alarm siren is going off (currently a clamp muffles that noise to save the neighbors). I can put the key in the barrel, rotate, and then still remove it (the Barrel lock appears to electrically be live, as it releases the key).
My guess if that the key has lost its coding for the alarm system, but I've tried following these instructions, https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...working-2.html,
with all combinations of button holding, pushing the hazard light switch, foot on brake, and key in/out barrel .... without any success in recoding the key.
Its worth noting the windows dont go through the usual drop down upon lifting the door latch sequence, im assuming this is due to the alarm running.
- my options seem to be getting the local agent to reprogram the key
- are there any other steps i should try to revive the key. I do only have 1 for the wrecked chassis's system
- a final last though is am i missing some switch that needs bridging from the cabriolet circuits to tell if the roof is down/up
I purchased a 1999 Porsche Boxster 986 about a year ago and I'm having a few problems with the electrical accessories. The top worked fine when I bought it, but now it won't work sometimes. The radio also turns on, then immediately off at startup, and it won' turn back on until a few minutes later either by itself, when I use turn signals, power windows, brake, or even just by itself. After the car is "warmed up", then it will stay on. Other things won't work right or not at all, such as the alarms for, ignition, door open, light switches, etc. The fuses are all fine, and I know the battery had been replaced right before I purchased it. I haven't checked the relay for the top, but I am about to do that now. I feel like there could be a single problem creating all these issues. Any help would be greatly helpful and appreciated!
My first post here so please bear with me but pretty desperate for help. Have 2004 Boxster S and its, in general, running a bit rough (feels fuel rich). It also will also, on occasion, not go. Pulling up at a busy intersection and car reduces to Idle. Then put the foot down and the car stays at idle. Normally an engine restart gets things going again (although not always and sometimes requires a few goes).
Bought a computer reader and found error codes
P0102: Factory Fault code 115 - Mass air flow sensor - below limit
P2135: Accelerator Pedal - Signal Implausible
P0121: Factor Fault code 117 - Throttle value or accelerator pedal potentiometer - signal implausible
P1266: Factory Fault Code 409 - Fuel shutoff function monitor - signal implausible
Took the car to Porsche. They suggest a MAF sensor was the root cause and replaced it. It felt better for a few days then problem returned. They replaced another MAF sensor.. Same problem. They then said the MAF reads 0 and have checked the cables so its me DME and it needs replacing (not cheap)
Have taken the car back home and looked at the likely affecting values myself from the computer.
The computer shows to different values for MAF
Mass air flow (HFM) is always 0 regardless of if the car is working correctly or not and at any accelerator level
Mass air flow seems to move within a range of 18 (idle) to 100 (full throttle)
2. Throttle (since it had error codes on this)
Pedal encoder potentiometer 1 and 2 always move and the pedal value goes from 0-100% when its working but stays at 0 when its not. Since the potentiometers always move I am assuming the DME simply can't add things up so sticks the pedal value at 0.
ie. The MAF sensor reading above confuses the DME and it reduces the throttle to 0. That feel consistent with the behaviour of the car (its just sticks at idle)
Any one with any clues? Certainly don't want to replace the DME unless absolutely necessary....