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I've got a 2008 997 C4 w/ 56k miles on it. It was cold this morning (30 degrees F) and I noticed clutch slip for the first time since I bought the car in higher gears under full throttle. The clutch pedal feels very mushy and lost alot of its spring on the return. I stopped by my local shop and he confirmed its the clutch.
The car is my daily driver but I do autocross about once a month and intend to track in the future. I told myself I'd get the light weight flywheel when its time to replace the clutch, and so it seems that time has come. I'm not adverse to the extra noise of the LWFW, but I've heard that you shouldn't do this mod on a C4. I see sharkwerks has a C4 project car with the LWFW so I assume it worked out, but who knows.
Aside from the flywheel obviously I need a clutch. I've been looking at the Sachs stage 2.5 performance clutch kit, and it seems like a good option. I've also heard that the BBI clutch slave cylinder is an upgrade that would be helpful for clutch performance and feel.
-Anyone have any experience with a LWFW on a C4?
-Anyone have any experience with the Sach's stage 2.5 kit on a C4?
-Any other clutch kit recommendations?
-Anyone have any experience with replacing the clutch slave cylinder?
Note: I'm going to get my IMS bearing inspected but if its not leaking I think I'm going to pass, seeing how I have 56k miles on it with no issues. Perhaps its past the infant mortality stage?
Car: 2003 996 Cab.
Symptom: The fuse for the front power windows and the fuse for the rear windows will blow instantly when a new fuse is inserted.
History: The car was in winter storage and, though disconnected, the battery went 100% flat. I reconnected the battery and used a jump-start box and she fired right up after letting the battery pick up a little charge. But the windows rolled themselves all the way down and then (I guessing here) the fuses blew. When I replace a fuse, it blows even before I can get it all the way seated.
Also, when I got the car home I removed the battery and put it on a slow charge, so the car was essentially without power for 2 days.
I've scanned the car with a Foxwell NT-510 and there are no faults in any system.
I don't have any idea where to start troubleshooting this. I don't know where to find a wiring diagram to begin knowing where to look. I'm handy with tools and comfortable with electricity, but this has me stumped.
Any thoughts on where to begin?
Hello, I'm a new boxter owner. While driving my interior lights come on over some bumps. I noticed that my window moves slightly up and down as well. Like locking/unlocking car. Sometimes remote will not lock car unless I open and close door a couple times. Does anyone know what part could be doing this? Need replaced or possibly a fix? Thank you!
After doing some research, I cannot find a clear solution to this problem. I have a 1997 Boxster which has a problem with the window controls.
If I remove the convertible top relay (double relay), both door windows operate as expected (proper drop when door is opened, auto drop when you press the window control, and full motion up and down).
When I insert the top relay (even with the top latch closed), both windows drop the standard 3 inches and the driver’s window will only go down. Once the driver’s window goes all the way down, it will not go up until I remove the top relay.
Any thoughts from the community?
I just resolved a window issue on my 2007 Porsche Cayman and wanted to post and help out anyone with a similar issue. My passenger side window was functioning normally except for when I closed my door the automatic window drop to clear the door seal was not returning to the complete up position and was staying down. The automatic up feature on the window was also not working. The auto-down feature worked and all other functions of the window performed normally.
So to be clear, when you pulled the exterior and interior door handles the widow dropped the 10mm or 1/4 inch it should. However, upon shutting the doot the window would stay down in this position and not return up. So....
I decided to do some research and came across the "latch micro switch issue".. I figured hey part isn't that expense so I replace the latch and the issue remained. After much more research, I came across a post about that issue being caused from a faulty door motor ECU. This IS the reason for the issue. After, disconnecting the battery, taking off the door panel using numerous videos and instructions from this site and others I was able to quickly replace the motor unit with a new one that I got on ebay for $120. The motor is easy to remove, 3 screws and then just pull the motor straight out and it will disconnect from the window regulator. Next, pop in the new one and you are good to go. Finally, the issue was resolved upon reconnecting the car battery and the motor auto cycled up and down and is now functioning normally. I wanted to post this as I am hoping someone else who does a google search for a similar issue will find this and save them hundreds if not a thousand dollars from taking the car to a Porsche dealer. The part number for the motor that I used to replace the current window motor was 997.624.182.06 replacing the original part that was 997.624.182.03