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If the oil cap is hard to remove, you have a high vacuum level in the sump, which is bad for a variety of reasons, including lean stalling. The correct way to access the AOS is to fully warm up the engine by driving the car for 10-15 min, then replace the oil cap with the one in the picture above with a hose that connects to the digital manometer. If the vacuum level exceeds 6-7 inches of water vacuum, the AOS is leaking air into the intake system, causing the lean stall conditions. The normal level of vacuum is typically 4-5 inches of water, which is a really weak vacuum level, so it doesn't take much of a leak to cause problems, which is why we always checked every car that passed thru the shop with the manometer.

The AOS can either be pin pointed or eliminated by having the car's sump vacuum level checked with a digital manometer (most quality shops have them as the AOS is a perpetual issue; surprise the dealer didn't do this).

Welcome to RennTech If you do not have access to a wiring diagram for the vehicle, probably the easiest way to check the ground is to pull the bulb in the light and use a multimeter to check the condition of the ground at the bulb socket.

We have used them here in the US for years at MUCH colder temperature's than you get without ANY issues. Put on the adaptor, add external magnets such as the Filter Mag, and enjoy both better filtration and peace of mind.......

Welcome to RennTech The factory radio had a ground wire that had to be attached to the car's chassis under the dash as a simple anti theft device. If that ground is not there, the immobilizer will prevent the car from starting.

Be sure to use some protective material on the mirror base. Set the pliers with the protecting parts to the windshield to the diameter of the mirror base and secure to the mirror base. Turn the rearview mirror through 90 degrees at the mirror base using the pliers. Then, unclip the base of the interior rearview mirror from the retainer plate on the windshield. When you reinstall the mirror be careful not to go beyond the 90 degrees locking point. If you remove the mirror base from the windshield you will need a special cleaning/glue kit from Porsche to reinstall it.

At the end of the day, it is your car and your money. Just be aware that there always has been a limit as to how cold an automotive AC can be allowed to get; some manufacturers actually set a minimum permissible temperature for their system in order to prevent some rather strange problems. We actually had a customer that complained his system seemed to be cooling fine and then would just shut off for no apparent reason during a rather warm and humid period. After some intense diagnostics, we discovered that his system was getting so cold (very low 30F air temps), that under some humidity conditions, the car was actually freezing over the inside heat exchanger, blocking air low until it defrosted, giving the appearance that the AC had quit. We traced the problem to an AC compressor replacement prior to his purchase of the vehicle, where the wrong part number compressor was installed that had a higher capacity rating than the factory unit. We evacuated the system, replace the compressor with the correct part number, recharged the system and found the air temps inside the car's ductwork now stayed at around 41F, one degree above the manufacture's minimum allowable internal air temp. The car never froze up again. While getting you system's AC temps as low as possible seems like a worth goal, sometimes the law of unintended consequences rears its ugly head............

Blue/white marking are stock springs. For factory Sport Suspension you will need new springs, stuts, and swaybars. RoW Sport Suspension Package for 3.2S 6 speed - Carnewal WWW.CARNEWAL.COM

I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and so far, seems to have fixed the problem. The engine has started a lot quicker when cold and when warm. One of the easier jobs I have done on this vehicle. Although I do have one of these lifts I purchased about 8 years ago, it sure helps a lot (made in Germany): Scissor lifts WWW.TWINBUSCH.DE Scissor lifts

Your alternator is not functioning, running you should have 14.5V DC. Pull the alternator, check the wiring connections to be sure they are tight and seated, if they are you are in the market for a voltage regulator..........

Manual is a huge component of my attraction to Porsche. Where I live, 2 similar spec 997.1 vs .2, the price difference is $15,000. i chose a .1 four and years ago. That 15k delta was left in the stock market (S&P 500) and has atleast doubled. Meanwhile my cars only trip to a shop has been a gashed tire caused by road debris. I’ve done all small repairs and major maintenance. (Although I have new issue today) Do you see yourself keeping this car for a year or 2? Or 10 years or more? If you plan on keeping a .1 I’d recommend the following: Swap to a low temp thermostat X51 baffle upgrade in the sump. consider upgrading AOS to aftermarket Ultimate AOS. 50 weight oil instead of factory 40 add 3rd radiator. ignore ALL internet boogeyman stories about the IMS. 2008 era, it is just another moving part. However if you ever drop engine for a clutch or rear main seal then have a seal removed such that IMS is no longer sealed and engine oil will splash in to lubricate it.

Do this someplace safe... Put in Neutral and see if the noise continues or not. If it does not continue then it is likely in the drivetrain (transmission, transfer case, driveshaft, rear end}. If it does continue then it is likely in the running gear (wheel bearing, axle shaft, or even warped brake discs).

Try 0758

Try 5346

Try 6909

Yes.

Perhaps - what is more important is the wheel offset. The fronts should be fine as both Boxster and 996 use 50 mm offset on 17 inch front wheels. The rear wheels for Boxster are 50 mm standard with an option of 55 mm. With the 55 mm offset wheel you are not allowed to install chains as they will damage the fender. So just be careful of offset for your uses.

Here is the documentation from the Porsche DME manual P0327 210 Knock sensor 1 - below limit Diagnosis conditions • Engine speed more than 3600 rpm • Engine load greater than 45 % Possible fault cause ♦ Break in wiring or short to ground ♦ Contact corrosion on the connector ♦ Knock sensor loose ♦ Short circuit to B+ ♦ Knock sensor ♦ When a fault is stored, the ignition angle is retarded for all cylinders in the range in which knock control is active. ♦ Knock control adaptation is inactive. ♦ If knock control becomes active here, this may indicate engine damage (increased noise level) Affected terminals Terminal III/49 and III/50 Diagnosis/troubleshooting

Try 3098

Try 6704

You need a Porsche specific scan tool to see the faults, something like the Durametric system or a PIWIS system, no other scan tools will be able to see the faults.

Try 3412

Try 0687

Try 4870

Try 9371

Try 7571

Now you know why Loctite exists...........

Did you have it coded to the vehicle with a PIWIS system? If not, start there...................

The valve lift system, like the Vario Cam system, are hydraulicly operated using the engine oil pressure network. One of the biggest problems with all of these systems is that they were designed with very small oil passages, making them very susceptible to problems with particles of debris in the oil blocking the passages. The fact that you found debris in the valve lift screen points to where the issue probably lies.

The engine serial number would have been built in late 2005 or early 2006. Porsche rebuilt engines always get the latest parts and a warranty. To be sure you would have to open the engine to get the IMD diameter. If you want insurance then you can install one of the 3rd party IMS oiler solutions. IMS Solution: Oil Fed Plain IMS Bearing - No Ball or Roller Intermediate Shaft Bearings LNENGINEERING.COM IMS bearing failures are expensive. The IMS Solution is the only permanent solution to the IMS problem. Proven protection and the industry’s best warranty.

Found the solution, the circuit board inside to control unit was corroded at the power input, cleaned resoldered and now working! That’s saved a fair few pounds, just all the trim to put back

I need to replace the handbrake on my 2008 C2S. Right now it's engaged and won't disengage without significant effort (button basically doesn't work without extreme force and lifting it slightly). I know how to remove the center console (here's a good video for future readers 2008 Porsche 911/997 Turbo Center Console Removal Airbag Light and Shift Cable End Links - YouTube), but are there any specific instructions for replacing the handbrake itself? Also, I'm worried this handbrake is going refuse to disengage at any time. Is there a way to disengage it if I end up in a pinch? Finally, while I'm going through all of this is there anything else I should correct/replace? I had the Function First Shift-Right Solution installed a few years ago.

I found my emergency release cable behind the driver's side rear wheel plastic wheel housing, towards the rear bumper. I had to remove the rear wheel to gain access to the plastic screw and the plastic nut that holds the plastic housing to the frame of the car. I didn't have to remove the housing entirely, though. I just removed the two fasteners and pulled the housing enough so I could see into the area behind it with a flash light. Lo and behold, the emergency release cable was sitting there waiting to be fished out!

Hi..I live in rainy Ireland and this has been a real problem in my 996 Cab. I brought your water drain diagramme to my garage and they removed the interior side panel to find an easy solution. A number of drain tubes collate into a collection point like a mini funnel which had built up a pot of sludge and water could no longer flow through same and out of the car...so diverted to the back foot wells. Who thinks up the stupid systems??

Hi, I am new to writing posts in forums so be gentle…. I will try to add as much relevant information as I can. Firstly I would like to thank some of the other forum members who have helped me so far to try and diagnose the problem I am currently having. I amongst others I have read: https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-955-957-2003-2010/1056770-kessy-unit-drain-my-battery.html https://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/37055-keyless-kessy-entry-problem-fixed-after-5-dollars-and-1-hour-o/ Although these posts have helped me to narrow down what the issue I am having might be, they haven’t solved the power drain problem I am having. My troubles started a few months ago after buying a 2003 Porsche Cayenne Turbo 955. The car is low mileage for its age (74k) but is suffers from a flat battery after standing for roughly 2 days. The previous owner used to keep the car on a constant trickle charger stating “These old cars all have flat batteries after 1-2 days”. I knew that isn’t true but as someone with previous experience with parasitic power drain issues with cars I didn’t get too worried about the problem. The battery on the car is new (bought by the previous owner, it’s the correct size and I have a receipt to prove its age!). Things I have done so far: · Used a battery tester to fully verify the battery is good. · Pulled fuses to confirm which fuse was the culprit. I did this after connecting an analogue ammeter between the battery and the car. After waiting for the initial current spike to calm down I found that Fuse 41 (KESSY) on the left hand side fuse panel was causing a 2 amp draw. After removing the fuse the current draw dropped to almost nothing (that I could read using the analogue readout). · After finding out that Fuse 41 was the culprit I removed the fuse and wired in a remote control relay as a temporary fix to stop the power going down when the car is not in use. o This “bodge” solved the power drain problem, however it’s not fixed the original issue, it’s just a sticking plaster! o After reading another post it was mentioned that the KESSY transmitters/receivers which are in the doors and the bumper can cause a parasitic power drain where that’s a faulty unit. I have since removed all of the KESSY units from the car and…. No luck. o I had a quick look today to see about replacing the KESSY ECU itself but it looks like a pig to get to (it’s above the driver side foot well) there is a thick as your arm wiring loom coming from the bulkhead going right underneath where you could remove it. So I am not keen on replacing… also a call to a Porsche main dealer mentioned that they have only sold a handful of replacement KESSY ECUs so they suggested that’s unlikely to be fix the issue, however I'm not sure. I am now completely out of ideas. Anyone else had a similar problem(s) who could offer some advise? Thanks very much in advance, Chris.

The MY05 Carrera Owners Manual is now online and available for download. You can download it here (special thank you to Viken) (corrected link)

Osunick, Your GPS antenna is located behind the rearview mirror. Hope this helps.

Those struggling with that lower nut- there is a rubber plug which when pulled provides access to the nut.

congratulations! "i almost got into a fight with my mechanic"--brings back memories…i am sure he did an excellent job. one thing i did experience was MAF and Cat and sensor and knocking issues (check engine lights, sometimes blinking, sometimes not, codes such as P420, p1097, p2195) i used a bottle is isoheet every tankful for a month and everything went away. has not come back since. is this new config engine more sensitive to water in the fuel? i dunno. thought i would mention it as your car is being put away for the season, something like this may arise when you start to play again come spring. congrats again. all is well that ends...

Oh man, I hope you have a better result than I did with my 09 2S. Mine failed when I tried to pull away from a traffic light a year ago. Got the transmission emergency run on the dash. Car wouldn't move forward or backward. The gear indicator flashed back and forth between 1 and 2 when I had it in drive but the car wouldn't move. Couldn't clear it with Durametric while at the traffic light. Shift rod 3 failure. Towed the next day to a PIWIS which cleared some of the codes but could not clear the Shift rod 3 error. Tech tried first to run PIWIS calibration routine and then to reflash it - both to no avail. I was out of warranty and ended up paying for PCNA re-manufactured unit to be installed. Based on other failures he had seen, tech thought the issue was in the hydraulic section of the box but of course Porsche doesn't share what they found when the failed unit was opened up in Germany. What part of the country are you from?

Dave, As Silver said, it should not be too difficult to track down the problem(s). All you need is a $15 multimeter. Run your engine till warm and the low voltage shows up, then let it idle and turn on the a/c and the low beam. The current draw from the alternator should now be ~50A. You can then do the following tests. I drew a diagram with the corresponding parts. Test #1: check voltage drop between point "C" (alternator casing) and "B-" (call that V(C, B-)). Note "B+' and "B-" are the actual battery terminals, not the cable connectors on the terminals. This test shows total voltage lost between the alternator and the battery on the ground side. Expect 0.2v or less. If your ground strap is bad, it will show up in this test. Test #2: check V(A, B+) where "A" = alternator output at the back of the alternator that you can't see (use an inspection mirror) and expect ~0.5v or less. "A" is hard to get to. I fabricated a J-shape hook using a stiff insulated wire and just literally probe it blindly from behind. Wear protective goggles here since you will be close to the drive belt, a hot engine, and the always LIVE "A". This test shows total voltage lost between the alternator and the battery on the power side. Test #3: check V(A, J) and expect ~0.2v. This tests #21, which is the infamous cable that can corrode and Porsche has also revised it. Test #4: check V(J, B+) and expect ~0.3v or less. Test #5: check V(A, C), your alternator output and expect 13.5v or higher. Your problem is gonna show up in one of the tests above.

I could not disagree more. You want the TB to be dry as only air passes over it.

I have a '00 C2, 6-speed, Canada version. I keep an eye on the operating temperature, using the OBD hack rather than the gage. In traffic, the car has always run pretty warm, regularly over 100 C in the spring-summer-fall. Last night, it was up over 105 C, and I thought I'd hop out and check to see if the cooling fans had switched to high speed as they are supposed to at this temperature. On the passenger side of the car, the fan was loud and you could feel air being moved. On the driver side, the fan was on but quieter, and less air was moving. Is this normal? If not, can you suggest an explanation? I can imagine losing a fan altogether, but I can't figure out why it would just refuse to switch speeds. TIA, Bruce.

997 1. Find the middle of the lid. 2. Position logo Carrera with the dimensions A and C Carrera logo dimension 129.6 mm+/−1 mm and B Carrera logo dimension 45 mm−1 mm and stick on lid. 997S 1. Find the middle of the lid. 2. Position logo Carrera with the dimensions A Carrera S logo dimension 175.6 mm+/−1 mm and B Carrera S logo distance 45 mm−1 mm and stick on lid. 3. Position logo S with the dimensions C Carrera S logo dimension 175.6 mm+/−1 mm and D Carrera S logo distance 39 mm+/−1 mm and stick on rear lid. 9974S 1. Find the middle of the lid. 2. Position logo Carrera with the dimensions A Dimension: 175.6 mm +/-1 mm and B distance: 45 mm -1 mm and stick on lid. 3. Position logo 4 with the dimensions C Dimension: 19 mm +/-1 mm and D Dimension: 2 mm +/-1 mm and stick on rear lid. 4. Position logo S with the dimensions E Dimension: 190 mm +/-1 mm and F Dimension: 3 mm and stick on rear lid.

I'm just toooooo slow. Thanks Loren.

Hi, yes Mobil 1 5w-50 is the only SAE50 viscosity lubricant Approved by Porsche. It is an excellent lubricant with a long history. It ia available in most Countries except the USA Mixing most Mobil 1 products to achieve a "supplementary" viscosity can be done without the risk of loosing the benefits of the overall base fluid/additive package There are two exceptions to this however. M1 0w-40 and M1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40 (non Approved) should not be mixed with other Mobil 1 lubricants if you wish to retain their unique and quite sophisticated formulation I use the "parent" of M1 TDT 5w-40 - it is a Commercial lubricant called Delvac 1 5w-40 Regards Doug

Some advice for C4 fuel filter replacement on MY99 On the C4, the filter is by the coolant tank. You need to remove the air filter box. See that link. Also, when removing the AF box, there are two wire guides for the MAF sensor. Pull out the whole wire guide with stem as you could break the little clip that holds the wire. To change the fuel filter: (again, remove the AF box for access). Loosen the hose clamp on the filter. Get it really loose (almost with the hose clamp apart). It is up to you if you open the clamp fully. They can be tricky to re-thread in tight spaces like this. Undo the top clip by pushing the little gray section on the quick clamp. Have a rag in the area to catch the fuel. Pull the filter forward for access to double wrench the nut. (Hold back wrench at filter and loosening wrench on fitting). Use rag here also to catch fuel. Stubby, open-ended wrenches would be better, but I did it with standard lengths. You need to pull the filter toward you enough to get clearance. The wrench sizes (almost 3/4" size whatever tha is in metric). When all disconnected, you either open up the clamp fully to get the rear tube out, or manipulate the tube through the clamp. When installing, you need to do the same thing. Manipulate the rear tube through the clamp first. Reverse procedure to replace.

The use of the engine case center point is a temporary lift point that is used by Porsche trained service technicians and with the jack placed correctly is perfectly safe. The use of the rear suspension cross-member can also be used, but requires the use of a jack with a long and low tongue. The possibility of inadvertent damage to the engine is much higher using the suspension cross member because of the requirement to reach under the engine to get to the lift point. The use of the rear suspension forward attachment points is high discouraged because of the high probability of bending the attachment bolt in the center of the casting. Using the engine case as a lifting point puts the lifting pressure to the body through the engine to the engine mounting points which are compressed upon lifting. This puts the same amount of force on the mounting points of the the car as if was resting on its wheels. As long as one does not lift on the engine sump cover, there is little chance of damage to any components, or the car slipping off of the jack plate. Remember this is a temporary lifting point that is only used until the rear jack stands are in place. It is misinformation to suggest that lifting from the engine is not safe or effective.