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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/14/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    A couple of days ago my head unit started cycling off and on every minute or so. I found some posts that these things are notorious for failing so I started looking for a place that would repair it. Luckily I found the Becker office in Saddle Brook NJ, called them, and they emailed me instructions how to fix it. Apparently my XM SAT provider caused the problem. It required a reboot as per below: WARNING It was brought to our attention, that the PCM 3.0 and 3.1 units have been rebooting continuously on a number of Porsche vehicles at the moment. It seems that a signal was sent by SiriusXM which has caused this issue. SiriusXM and Porsche are investigating currently and are working on a fix. VERY Important: Please DO NOT replace any parts or hardware on a vehicle, due to this issue. In order to rectify this issue, you will perform a “PCM handover” (also known as a PCM Hard Reset). Instructions are listed below; Press and hold the PCM>>Info button for approximately 10 seconds until the PCM reboots. Immediately select the following from the PCM; CAR>>OPTION>>Set PCM System>>Reset PCM>>Vehicle Handover>>Yes>>Yes These instructions can also be found in the respective Owner’s Manuals for affected vehicles. Hopefully this may prevent Dealership / workshop visits. If your vehicle is already at the workshop, recommend that the technician update it to the latest available software level. **PLEASE NOTE: Performing a PCM Hard Reset will also erase all of the radio presets and Bluetooth connections and these will have to be reentered by you after the reset.** In order to rectify this issue, you will perform a “PCM handover” (also known as a PCM Hard Reset). Instructions are listed below; Press and hold the PCM>>Info button for approximately 10 seconds until the PCM reboots. Immediately select the following from the PCM; CAR>>OPTION>>Set PCM System>>Reset PCM>>Vehicle Handover>>Yes>>Yes WARNING Reboot for PCM 3.1.docx WARNING Reboot for PCM 3.1.pdf
  2. 2 points
    OK, first of all, either twisting wires together and wrapping them with tape, or using wire nuts is totally unacceptable for automotive applications. Both are pathways to shorts and even fires. Wires should be reconnected with crimp connectors at a minimum, with soldering them and then using heat shrink tubing to cover the soldered joints the actual preferred method. Most likely, in the process of doing this swap, you disturbed something, but exactly what is hard to say, particularly as the previous owner used the twisted wire and tape wrap method of connecting things. It is entirely possible that you may have pulled another such "MacGyver" like repair loose that is not related to the radio swap. Probably the best approach at this juncture is to get the vehicle scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool to see what the various communication modules are doing. Good luck with this one.
  3. 2 points
    Hi guys, I bought my 1999 Porsche 911 C4 Tiptronic back in January and I've been doing little projects on it ever since. I used to have a 2016 Dodge Challenger R/T Scat Pack with a 6.4 liter V8 that I traded in last summer, but I was missing the sports car feeling too much so decided to buy the Porsche. One of the things that stood out to me on the test drive was just how sluggish and unresponsive the Tiptronic gearbox felt compared to the one I had in the Dodge. Since the rest of the car was in very good condition (invoices for every oil change & repair going back to 2003, IMS bearing changed, etc.) I decided to buy it anyway, assuming I would get used to having to mash my foot into the carpet everytime I wanted the thing to move. Looking through this forum and others, I heard about the Sprint Booster and how it might help with this problem. For those of you that don't know what this is, it is a small plug that sits between the gas pedal and the cable harness running to the ECU and that changes the signal sent to the car from the position of the gas pedal. The factory set up makes it so that when you push the gas pedal, the revs rise very slowly for the first 50% of pedal travel. I think I read somewhere that halfway down, the pedal will only give you about 25% of the power. This means that in order to get the Tiptronic box to do a downward shift, you really REALLY have to mash the pedal and do it in a quick manner. In general it makes the whole car feel unresponsive and not at all like the free-revving, happy sports car I thought I was getting. The Sprint Booster module (which only works on cars with electronic throttle control or "e-gas" pedal) will take the gas pedal input and modulate it to reflect a more aggressive pedal action. The only thing that changes really is the voltage that is sent to the car's ECU, and how this is calculated in relationship to the position of the gas pedal. The unit comes with a little control gadget where you can set it to one of three basic settings - Factory (simple pass-through, nothing changes from stock), Sport (about a 30% more aggressive response), and Race (about 50% more aggressive). Within both Sport and Race you can then fine tune with an additional setting from 1-9 for each of the two categories. By default the device will put you in "5" or the middle ground. The device costs you about $300 and there is no discount to be had from any of your typical market places. I simply bought mine directly at the manufacturer's website. Since it was my birthday last week, I decided to treat myself and see if it might work. You have a 30-day money back guarantee and the install process is completely reversible, so I figured I'd give it a go. If it actually helps make my tiptronic feel peppy it will have been worth every penny. If not, I'll just return it. For the installation my first problem was figuring out if my particular car had an e-gas or electronic throttle system or not. Looking at the gas pedal I can see a cable running up the bulkhead so I wasn't feeling too optimistic. With the help of others on this forum, I learned that all 996's have e-gas except the 98-99 C2. I also popped the hood and looked at the throttle body itself. To be extra sure, I also asked the vendor to confirm that my particular model would work with the product. The manufacturer's website only shows MY 2000 and beyond as approved for installation, but they came back and confirmed that in fact the -99 C4 does have e-gas and so I could proceed with the purchase. 3-4 days later I get the box in the mail. It is a tiny little thing and doesn't appear to be much for the $300 I paid for it, but whatever. The installation manual shows pictures of the device being plugged into a port located somewhere on the gas pedal assembly itself. It is clearly the most common spot for most manufacturers to link the throttle to the ECU, but that's not the case in a Porsche 996. The gas pedal pulls on a cable and if you follow the cable up from the pedal, you'll see it attaching to a metal box conveniently located under the actual dashboard, and at an impossible angle for any human being to get to. In these cases I like to resort to child labor, so I bribed my 13-year old son to help me. By laying upside down in the driver's seat and sticking his head + one arm under the dashboard, he was able to get the device plugged in correctly in as little as 2 hours. I was basically reduced to cheer leader, and voice of reason to guide his efforts. We made use of my cell phone camera to try and figure out from the pictures how to disconnect the old plug and get the new Sprint Booster in place. The pictures attached to this post will show you how we figured it out: The entire installation process is done by touch and feel as you cannot see any of the components directly. I would recommend our approach of using a camera, talking about what we need to do next, and then use your fingers & imagination to figure out what it is that you are doing. We found it helpful to start with where the cable attaches to the box, then run your fingers over until you hit the little metal flange that sticks out with the white plastic butt underneath it. When you have your hand there you know that the plug itself is just above it. After the initial installation we immediately took the vehicle out for a ride. The gas pedal felt weird, and we had intermittent revving and a noticeable delay when pressing the pedal. I figured it was simply down to the device having to calibrate itself so we went for a ride. 20 minutes in we get a check engine light come on so we headed back to the garage. Ever the optimist, I simply disconnected the battery to reset the CEL and then went out for another drive. This second time it worked beautifully! The car felt like a different animal all together, and the gas response was crisp and immediate. Problem solved, or so I thought, and we called it a day. The second day I went for a drive and got not only a CEL but also the PSM and ABS warning lights. At this time I was ready to call it a day and send the device back since I don't want to have to deal with buggy electronics or stuff that I can't trust. Called up the son again to have him pull everything out and that's when he noticed that the OEM male connector at the end came lose by simply touching it. Turns out we hadn't been able to plug it in all the way until it latched onto the Sprint Booster module. I guess it is not manufactured to the same tight spec as the OEM stuff, and by a fraction of a millimeter the plug can't go in far enough to secure it with the latches. Using force and patience, we eventually managed to push it all the way in until we heard the very satisfying "click" of the plug latching onto the module. If I have to take it off again because it comes loose, I will certainly use a file to remove a bit of material on each latch and ensure that they lock into place without having to push too hard. Since this point I have driven the car 4-5 times and about 50 miles, driving it as I usually do and without holding back in any way. No CEL or other warning lights and the thing runs really well. Having tried the different settings, I have decided to leave it in Sport-5 which I think is a happy medium for a sporty feel without compromising the ability to drive smoothly when you want to. Race mode makes it more binary, and it is like mashing the pedal at every stop light. It might be fun on a track, but for everyday driving it is just too aggressive. In Sport-5 it'll pull away softly in 2nd gear like it did with the factory settings, but if you simply give the pedal a little shove it'll immediately downshift to 1st gear and take off with gusto. All in all I have to say that this was very much worth it. The car feels different - more sporty and responsive, just like you'd want a Porsche to feel like. I know this doesn't add any power to the engine but just by having the Tiptronic gearbox work more like a modern sports car it really changes everything. I'm now planning on driving it for the full 30-day money back period, and if I run into any issue I will post an update to this forum. Cheers, Magnus Update - April 22nd, 2020: I've now driven with the Sprint Booster for 6 weeks and I can honestly say that this was the best bang for the buck modification that I've done to my Porsche. I would rate my Alpine head unit & speaker system upgrade as the mod that I most appreciate, but that was $2,400 and this was only $300. Just be careful with the installation and count on it being a PITA...
  4. 2 points
    You should not have to - unless you hooked up the new battery backwards. If the polarity was hooked up correctly then you need to start looking for poor grounds. Starting with the battery cable then chassis grounds.
  5. 2 points
    Welcome to RennTech On cabriolets, the number 2 relay panel is mounted to the rear of the roll over protection frame. You need to put the top in the "service" position to gain access to it.
  6. 2 points
    Are you sure you don't have fuses mixed up? I'm currently on 1 pump in my CS with fuse 14 pulled and can hear the right side pump running/whinning when the car is on. I think Fuse #14 is for the driver side pump and #13 is the right pass side pump, but feel free to correct me If I'm wrong USA
  7. 1 point
    I'm not sure. I've heard it's best to stick with a Porsche branded pump (rather than even the OEM Pierburg).
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    Auto's en lichte commerciële voertuigen AFTERMARKET.ZF.COM Personenauto's This is the catalog of the transmission manufacturer, country and language can be changed if necessary.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    I finished a full cylinder replacement using LN Engineering Nickies 3.8 L kit last year that cost $6k in parts and machine services. I did the assembly work. It was a great education in 996 mechanics and special tools. Definitely not for the faint of heart! Looking back I should have done the heads at the same time so that I could call it a full rebuild. It took about 3 months total. Keith 2003 996
  13. 1 point
    Anyone wanting to rebuild this engine would first need to have the cases re-sleeved, which is going to set you back a ton of $, and then you would need to drop another $10-12K to just do a stock style rebuild. Something like this would not be for the faint of heart or wallet.......................
  14. 1 point
    Likely a bad pump or leaking lines.
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Check the high current connections, they are to thick ones from the battery under the seat to the starting circuit and to ground. Now that you know it's a corrosion problem then unbolt and clean them, don't just look. Check any connectors you can get access to as well.
  18. 1 point
    They are welded, need to grind it off from below, drill 8mm hole, fit the replacement by welding it underneath to the body. Stud should be M6, normally that would be 10mm socket for the nut. Tightening torque is 6.5ftlb.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Excess fuel, Mass air flow sensor dirty, engine temperature sensor faulty, dirty air filters, oxygen sensor faulty. Then go on to check fuel pressure and related items. All engines have blow by and it would be expected the blow by gas will be rich in UN-burnt fuel and oil mist in your case. The AOS will have oil around it including the hose, so when the crankcase has a little pressure then the valve will work sending the oil rich gas to the intake to be burnt ( causing carbon build up on intake valve stems, but that's another story). Look at how the engine knows the correct fuelling, one of those inputs to the ECU is giving the wrong information, I have mentioned a few, find it!
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    I found a neat program that puts the 987 Chrono on your computer desktop. It displays the time and temp. I am also working on getting the workshop manuals to add to the 987 Basic Workshop manuals and 2005 wiring diagrams I have in electronic format. If you are interested email me or PM me Thank you
  25. 1 point
    I agree with Pierre; a large expense with little benefit.
  26. 1 point
    No, you can't switch them. Once the immobiliser code has been programmed into a KESSY/PAS control unit, it can't be over-written with a PIWIS tester. You might want to try an automotive electronics repairer, to see if they can write the immobiliser code directly to the eeprom. I have heard of that being done, but have no experience.
  27. 1 point
    996 Ignition Switch replace (just the switch) with pictures First off - thanks to everyone who has been down this road before me for providing tips and suggestions and troubleshooting regarding this common problem. I have been dealing with a key that would stay all the way to the right upon starting meaning that the A/C, heated seats and some other items would not function. My solution had been to simply start the car and then just move the key back one notch to the left and everything worked fine. So if others have that issue, my original solution Author scb71 Category Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 09/16/2009 01:31 PM Updated 03/13/2017 05:24 AM  
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    Lol, and to think I was expecting a picture of a BMW. Still in the family!
  30. 1 point
    There is a vacuum line to the brake booster right behind the firewall. Have you checked that? Might be a bad seal or something. See #10 here Brake Master Cylinder Brake Booster Pre-charge Pump WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
  31. 1 point
    You had a hydraulic not mechanical clutch. Does the ticking speed increase if you touch the accelerator lightly? Is it there at any time while driving? Johan
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    Both are for getting into restricted spaces, and can be great time and knuckle savers, but there are other ways to skin this cat....
  35. 1 point
    Your part number is correct except for the M14 at the end, which tells me it is a Pelican number. Don't buy it from them, they a known for swapping out non OEM for the real thing. Get it from board sponsor Sunset Porsche.
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    New member here. This is a great site with loads of useful information, so thank you! I recently bought my dream car, finally, a 2007 997.1 turbo with Tip with 27k. Long story short, I bought the car and had it serviced right before winter. However, after the service which included an oil change, code P0021 came up for the first time. I took it back to the dealer and they cleared the code and told me this happens at times after an oil change. I drove the car for a few more weeks until the weather changed and the CEL light never returned, until yesterday. Again, because of the weather, the car has been sitting for a few months and I just took the car out. It ran perfect all-day long. Then the very next morning, I take the car out and about 5 min into the drive the CEL light comes on with "Visit your local shop" or something to that affect. My OBD reader indicates Code: P0021 - camshaft position over-advanced bank 2. 1 - Should I clear the code and see if the code returns, or should I have someone look further into it? 2 - I was going to clear the code and see if it comes back like previously noted by the dealer but wanted to acquire some more experienced thoughts on this. Car seems to run, idle, and drive perfectly fine. Any thoughts or guidance on what to do next would be greatly appreciated! Sorry for the long post. Thanks in advance for you guidance!
  39. 1 point
    Tape...find the ground wire and wrap some tape around the connector. That means it is not connected to anything. Originally the brown ground wire was connected to the radio chassis. Now what you want to do is disconnect the ground wire and wrap some tape around the connector so it is not touching anything.
  40. 1 point
    So I was looking at dashcams and thought maybe I would use my GoPro instead with a remote - seems their handlebar mount is made for the rear cross bar (£17 on Amazon at the moment) Will run a USB-C cable from the socket in the console when it arrives Quite happy with the result and I can’t see it in my rear view mirror at all
  41. 1 point
    Quick follow up in case others need this. It was the AOS. All fixed and back on the road.
  42. 1 point
    Cs can be done without engine removed
  43. 1 point
    Porsche stopped publishing their service manuals around 2004 and switched to an online subscription service for those without a PIWIS unit (it is included with the PIWIS), so there are no reliable sources for legitimate PDF files. Part numbers you can get online from sources like board sponsors Sunset Porsche’s parts website. The Durametric system is hands down the best aftermarket diagnostic tool for Porsche.
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    991-631-155-02 Direction Indicator Light (left) -- US MSRP $32.74 991-631-156-02 Direction Indicator Light (right) -- US MSRP $32.74 Your bulb should already be white so just change out the lens/socket assembly.
  46. 1 point
    A real check for a mechanical diff is to lift the rear, and rotate a wheel. If the other wheel rotates too, but in the opposite direction, then it has a mechanical locking diff. I added a Guards 60/40 LSD to my 986S racecar. There are certain turns at certain tracks with poor rear grip (Homestead Miami Speedway for example) where the LSD kicks in a lot. The Boxster race cars in the Grand Am Sports Car Challenge ST Class are also using this same diff. If anyone else is thinking of adding a diff for track use, the Grand Am guys tested both the 80/20 and the 60/40. The 80/20 caused excessive understeer. The 60/40 also makes it biased to understeer, but it can be dialed out with shocks, springs and sway bar settings. If anyone is thinking about a diff for spirited street driving, the torque biasing diffs are good.
  47. 1 point
    Thanks for the replies. When I bought the centre piece, it definitely made a big difference. I had my doubts about the mesh pieces. They are meshes for starters, and also they fit just behind the seat which doesn't make much sense. I will probably save my money on this one then.
  48. 1 point
    Ive just done this mod now, took me about 10 mins, i earthed mine to the center console bracket. works a treat and still drops the windows when you unlock the top cant fault it, dont think i would use it anything over crawling speed for fear of damage, but i think like some others, its a bit OTT for the hanndbrake and stopped settings
  49. 1 point
    The problem is most likely the headlight switch. Mine flickered or acted more like a strobe light when you turn it on. Try to do what I did. Pull out the switch to the fog light position, then slam it back in. This ensures a GOOD connection to start the lamp. The contacts get worn or dirty over time. I did this standing up just outside the car and with my right hand/palm. After doing this a couple of times... BAM, my light came on. I am pretty sure your lights will turn on. If so, R&R the switch.
  50. 1 point
    Finally got clutch sorted out. When they removed the tranny, they must have supported part of the weight of the tranny on the input drive shaft. This bent the disk slightly. After reinstalling it this made it wobble and drag slightly when released. Got a new disc installed with many appologies. 0 dollars out of pocket. Grief and worry was no charge.
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