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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/25/2018 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Updated Mileage: 288,565. 2018 Round trips included NY to Seattle and NY to New Orleans. Still not driving as much as I'd like. #4 cylinder down to 75%. Trying to hold out to 300k before rebuild.
  2. 2 points
    Front trunk, rear engine cover, doors, center console, interior sensor.
  3. 2 points
    The horn beeps and lights flashing is the alarm system telling you there is a alarm system zone fault somewhere. Could be an open (or maybe in this case closed/locked when it should be open) zone. Zones are: drivers/passenger doors, trunk lid, engine lid, glass (targa) top, gas cap lid, center console lid, and if you have it the glove box door. There are also two interior sensors in the overhead that detect motion when the car is locked. I think getting to the battery and disconnecting is a good idea. However, you have a problem since the trunk is not opening. First thing to try is actually seeing if the trunk is already open. Put your fingers under the trunk lid and try pulling up. Second is to locate the emergency release cable under the passenger side headlight. Unfortunately you need to pop the headlight out to make this a simple exercise, and you can't do that without opening the trunk. So you have to pull the passenger wheel well liner and fish out the cable from behind. Hopefully your wheel lock socket is not in your trunk!
  4. 2 points
    LONG STORY SHORT,,...My entry and drive system went bad one day., after almost a year of testing , replacing the battery, buying the test tool, almost brought a china piwis ,.... and bringing it to dealer and 800 dollars of dealer time., I had it fixed for 5 Dollars in parts. and one hr of soldering at first my kessy do not communicate to the darmatic tool or PIWIS at all, the dealer went ahead try to replace it , with a superseeded module, HOWEVER they wasn't able to program it for unknown reason, there is no module out there that will take my car's pin and complete the marry process because they said all the module has been superceeded. The dealer offer me to replace ALL the module in the car to an updated version for a cheapo $3000 dollars.! OF COURSE I refused,. ...,. I only lost my alarm horn , entry and drive function and its not worth $3000 dollars,. I was investigating myself trying to see what causing the problem, I came in to the touareg forum and found out those guys there have a lot of the problems with their module too. ... I was like ,hum.,,. then go under my dash and found the kessy module that is EXACTLY the same as theirs including the part number (WHICH IS A VW part number stamped on a sticker btw).... there is one guy there that took his module to a local electrician and found he has 2 fried mofset and 6 fried resistors.!!! I was like, fxxx it, why don't I give it a try, at first I couldn't found the 0.22ohm resistors (its was HARD trust me I took almost 2 months looking for them)., so I went ahead replaced the two mofset........... 15 mins and a lot of smoke later....... MAN,,,... the module can communicate with my Durametic tool...! HOWEVER,, all the antennas are reporting short to ground ERROR!!! I tried to clear it but the code come back instantly. then I went on to test the resistor value,... and found all six of the 0.22ohm resistors are SHORT (they are fusible resistor btw)....,,. sooooo I tried my best and finally able to locate those 0.22 ohm resistor .., fast forward 2 months later............ I received those resistors today.............. another 15 mins of smoke and sweat with my resoldering station... I plug the module back... run the scan tool clean the fault codes!!!!................... moment of truth,, I plug my dummy key in to the key cyclinder with the real key in my pocket!!!!!!!!!!!!! turn and the CAR STARTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have successfully fixed a $3000 dollars repair (that don't guarantee will work) with 5 dollars worth of resistors !!!!!! NOTE: IF your kessy don't communicate with the scan tool,. Its the TWO MOFSET that is Fried. if you have all antennas short to ground or not responding its the 6 resistors!
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
    I think you need option 666 or 619 for Bluetooth phone. 619 can be retrofitted, which is less expensive than 666. By the way, you can't update the system to v2.24 in one step. You have to update to v2.23 first. Your dealer should know this. I would try to find one who knows what they are doing. The 619 Mobile phone preparation retrofit involves fitting an additional microphone and entering an activation code for the Bluetooth using a PIWIS tester.
  7. 2 points
    15-year-old car - absolutely yes. Best to change every 5 years.
  8. 2 points
    Just in case anyone comes across this thread trying to solve unstable idle issues, bigbuzuki was on the right track. I replaced the vapor canister purge valve, pretty easy and inexpensive, and the crankcase breather check valve, even easier. the purge valve may have been a contributor, but the check valve was the main culprit. What is interesting here is that all of my ventilation hoses were intact and without leaks, but if you peered inside the removed check valve, you could clearly see that the membranes inside had completely disintegrated. That immediately did the trick.
  9. 2 points
    As I noted on another forum, your expectations for power gains are probably a bit of a pipe dream. Normally aspirated Porsche engines have historically showed only very small gains in either torque or HP from the type of modifications you are considering when validated in dyno testing, and even these small gains only occurred at the very high end of the RPM curves. While the marketers of these products typically make substantial improvement gains, before and after dyno runs have not born out their claims. To get the 40-50 HP you are seeking is going to require significant internal engine modifications, which is not going to come cheaply.
  10. 2 points
    Personally, if the body shop damaged it, I would insist they replace it. It's there fault. That being said, you'll have to remove the door panel to replace the upper window weather seal. Check out this video...
  11. 2 points
    Reset 'Service Now' Message - Durametric I know this is a super simple one, but I have seen many inquiries with plenty of people saying this is not possible. So thought to provide accurate steps. In case you need to reset that pesky message appearing on your speedo, telling you to service your car now, do the following. I have been doing this via Durametric, with 100% success rate so far. Durametric sw ver: - Connect cable to ODB2 port in car, and other end of cable into powered on laptop - Start Durametric SW - IF asked to choose your year/vehicle, do so and click OK to proceed - Click the + sign next to Instrument Cluster section to expand it - Highlight the 'Commands' section - On right side of window, you will see prompt is you want to reset the service message. - Click reset, wait for completion message, click OK to close window and close Durametric. Done. Author ciaka Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Maintenance Submitted 10/13/2016 06:24 PM  
  12. 1 point
    Refer to my first graph above; what concerns me is that you are not getting a true nearly flat line from the rear O2 sensor and a rhythmic sine wave like curve from the front sensor, yours are showing a bounce that should not be there. You could have fouled cats.
  13. 1 point
    You need a scan tool that reads the O2 sensor voltages in real time, and preferably graphs the values. One sensor on each side should by cycling, while the other draws a straight voltage line. If both are cycling, one of the sensors is out. My concern would be that someone just worked on the car and may of crated a wiring issue that is screwing up one sensor on each side, causing the issue. This is where there is no substitute for the correct diagnostic equipment. I would start by using the above chart to determine that you really have the correct sensor in the correct locations; otherwise you will be chasing your tail trying to sort this out......
  14. 1 point
    Definitely recommend a low temp thermostat. If you never cleaned the radiators then you will be shocked and that could help a lot. Most importantly, don’t give up, it is probably something simple!
  15. 1 point
    Fuse 16 in the left fuse support. In many cases, it is not the fuse but a bad horn (or horns). The factory horns are not very good.
  16. 1 point
    Hi Toby, I used this as a general guide, it should be very similar to any valved exhaust you plan on installing. Hope it helps! I hope they don't mind installation links here - Akrapovic Install
  17. 1 point
    Yes, we are talking about the front diff, as it sits under the fuel tank.. How hard is obviously related to how well you are equipped and your mechanical expertise.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Does the car have a new (main) battery?
  20. 1 point
    i would ensure emergency blinkers are on and engine is off when you clear faults in all modules.
  21. 1 point
    Color codes front to rear are different. They are also different depending on RoW or US/Canada springs (ride height). They are also different depending on coupe or cabriolet -and whether you have a manual (6-speed) or Tiptronic.
  22. 1 point
    Hi to anyone who had this exact problem i have found a solution. after i changed my undamaged water pump and thermostat i got temp gauge dead and flashing. changed coolant sensor, to no avail. turns out that i needed to clear error codes with code reader and that instantly bought the gauge to life back to normal. 2.7 boxster 2001
  23. 1 point
    Yes, those will fit on a narrow body car. I have them on mine.
  24. 1 point
    Hi, after an hour of work, I’ve reached the front BCM module under dashboard, opened it and at the first look i found a bad transistor? Maybe it’s the problem?
  25. 1 point
    Small world. While it is currently closed for Jan and Feb for some renovations, visit the museum when you get the chance, particularly if you have kids, as it is focused on education about the heritage, history, and wildlife of the Chesapeake of southern Maryland, much of which has disappeared over the last fifty years. And there are several excellent seafood restaurants on Solomons Island as well. http://www.calvertmarinemuseum.com
  26. 1 point
    Very cool! I'll try it out. Thanks for doing this!
  27. 1 point
    It can be used at any angle, but any angle other than 90 degrees to the torque wrench requires an adjustment to the get the desired torque from the actual reading: Torque Wrench Adapter Formulas WWW.FORDSERVICECONTENT.COM Have fun!
  28. 1 point
    You either have PCM2.0 (navigation) or a CDR23 (radio). Neither have user-entry security codes. In both cases, codes are stored in the head unit and in the DME (engine control unit). When you switch the ignition on, the codes are compared, and if they match the radio/PCM will start. It sounds to me like the bluetooth adapter has been incorrectly installed. I would take it back to the fitter, and get them to put it right.
  29. 1 point
    Not surprisingly, if you follow these manuals instructions and take your time, it is really not that difficult. Most people that we see in trouble "after the fact" either did not follow the instructions, or decided for unknown reasons to take a short cut. Follow the instructions and you will be fine.
  30. 1 point
    Couple of possibilities, both actuator's, or solenoid's. are jammed, or the engine has jumped time. I can personally say that I've never seen this type of problem on both banks simultaneously, so you need to move forward with a diagnostics plan to evaluate the component's involved as "parts swapping" will get very expensive, very quickly...….
  31. 1 point
    If your not driving through rivers or the like and you want a long term solution, remove the plug permanently.
  32. 1 point
    Sway bars do not influence the wheel alignment, you can easily replace them.
  33. 1 point
    Hello, I am planning to replace the clutch of my 996 4s and therefore need to remove the transmission. I will put the car on these 20" (max) Bahco jack stands. Would a 5th of this jack stand also be able to support the engine? In my opinion the effect is similar to the original Porsche tool (except that it stands on the bottom and is not connected to the car). The stand could be screwed exactly to a height "touching" the crankcase. Or am I wrong and need more of these or something different? Further I need a transmission jack! Can someone recommend one? What is the maximum lowest height of this jack to remove the transmission from under the car. Thanks for hints! Gert
  34. 1 point
    Forgot to mention to run your heater whilst running the engine with the burp valve open. Whilst I've never done it, I believe that the valve can be left open (metal clip in upright position) whilst driving the car if necessary ... provided you keep a close eye on the coolant level.
  35. 1 point
    Used them on my 911's for years. No issues as long as you don't over oil them after cleaning.
  36. 1 point
    Did you read the Lost Radio Code FAQ? That is a PCM unit. "Can you give me a code for my PCM? These units are manufactured jointly by Siemens and Becker, and the only place where you can get the codes required is from the dealer/OPC. The PCM’s require two codes, the ICS/Siemens code, and a Becker code. The ICS is the first code requested. Sorry, the only place you can get a PCM code is from a dealer/OPC."
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    I hear some pingimg sound in the first video that sounds like a loose element inside a catalytic converter so you may want to use your stethoscope to check out both cats, the area where the engine and the transmission mate (IMS), on engine heads and then move toward the crank. Just probe anywhere (safely). Also check if all spark plugs are tight. The same sound is also hidden in the second video. The last video has two different sound. One very rapid ticking, which is likely from the evap regeneration valve (normal). The other rattle sound is less regular, sounds like something loose and rattling. Probe the idle pulleys, the alternator case carefully with the stethoscope. You may also want to try depressing the clutch and see if the noise changes.
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    Hey, I think that is my picture (-: But when this happened it was making a loud clacking noise, not a groan. The picture shows the top mount for a C4, which is quite different from a C2. in the last couple of years my car started making unbelievable groaning noises when the steering wheel was turned. Replaced the front lower control arms and the noise is gone.
  41. 1 point
    Just want to add to this topic to help those who are struggling to put the gear shifter back on. The secret to making sure the button will work it to shake the gear shifter. Hear that rattle? We've got to stop that. Here's how: 1) Hold the shifter horizontal so the button is facing the floor. 2) Insert a small watchmaker's screwdriver up between the edge of the button and the leather of the shifter on the same horizontal plane as the shifter 3) With the screwdriver in place, give the shifter a shake. If you don't hear a rattle it means you have correctly trapped the mechanism within the shifter in the right place. 4) With the screwdriver still in place push the shifter back into position in the car. making sure the car is in 'D' 5) There should be a satisfying click when the shifter is in place. When you hear this, remove the screwdriver and you will have a working button. Hope this helps
  42. 1 point
    Procedure to initialize steering column 1. Switch on ignition 2. Use seat adjustment to tilt backrest completely forward ( as far as the stop) 3. Keep switch pressed in this position ( approx. 5 seconds ) until you hear a signal tone on the instrument cluster. The control unit is initialized.
  43. 1 point
    Cabin filter Replacement Instructions in photos. 1. Open glove box to reveal location of the torx screw holding cover in place (it is located near the bottom edge of glove lid - you can see it after lid is opened) 2. Remove screw - socket - T20 - one screw in center of cover edge 3. Gently pull down on cover with fingers on left and right side of cover to remove pressure clips holding it in place. 4. Remove 2 screws with socket 5.5mm. This removes the closing cover to the filter compartment. 5. Remove filter compartment cover. 6. Using flat blade screwdriver, gently pull down on side to slide filter out of the housing. NOTE: OBSERVE AIR FLOW ON OLD FILTER - so you can place new filter in same direction. 6a. Inspect moisture collection point and blow out with compressed air as maintenance (remove any contaminants that could block water drip, which could otherwise result in wet spots in this area). 7. Place new filter back in, close and secure filter housing cover (make sure the seal on housing does not slide behind new filter as you insert it). Close the main cover and secure with the torx screw. DONE. Hope this helps you out. *** EDIT*** - I was gone for a while and all my pics had been removed from my tutorials. Regardless how it happened, here they are. Author ciaka Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Maintenance Submitted 08/06/2012 08:38 AM Updated 10/03/2016 10:21 PM  
  44. 1 point
    Well, we had another round of rain of biblical proportions last night (inches in an hour sort of rain..) so this AM I checked the P!G. I found the floor wet again. Not as wet as prior wetness, but for sure wet. I pried up the carpet and the foam was again wet, but it appeared my drain had worked, the wet wasn't up as high, and not as much got wet. Spent some quality time with towels wringing out the foam and drying it off again. So - it appears that heavy rain causes the leak (and perhaps the HVAC contributed..) So I started tearing things apart looking for the source. I first popped off the fuse cover and the trim next to it on the starboard side, to find: Hmm.. drips. Then I looked further and saw: More drips. They're appearing from behind the A-pillar trim piece (at the top of the photo..) The drips appeared to be travelling down the inside surface of the A-pillar inside trim. The path followed down past the fuse box and behind the right side kickpanel under the dash, right into the foam backing of the carpeting. I decided to look further upstream. To do so - I had to remove the A-pillar trim. This is actually rather easy. I had already popped off the little trim piece near the fuse box cover, and I went looking for what holds the A-pillar trim in place. Found it - one long T25 screw under the "AIRBAG" logo on the trim: After removing this screw, you can easily pull the trim out from the top down - pull it toward the center of the windshield to release some stab-clips on the back, and it then slides up and out from next to the dash. Quite easy actually (and a good time to tidy up any wiring that had been tucked behind it.) There is a side-curtain airbag there, so use a bit of caution (don't jam screwdrivers willy-nilly in behind it.) This is what's found once that trim is removed: You can see the path the drain hose takes. It's quite well protected, and there was no sign of leakage on the outside of the hose, so I suspected that up higher in the hose wasn't a problem (but decided to look anyway.) I next took the trim piece off the sunvisor mounting and two T20 screws behind it, which allows pulling the headliner corner down a bit. The actual mount stays attached to the headliner and no wiring has to be disconnected. If I could have figured out how to remove the passenger assist handle in the roof I could have pulled the headliner down even further, but as was, it came down far enough that with a Maglite LED flashlight I could see the hose all the way into the drain fitting for the sunroof drain: All looked good on the drain hose. No tears, no sign of wetness. I went up top, opening the sunroof and looking around, and found there was leaf-munge in the drain area and on the tracks of the sunroof mechanism. I used my high-pressure air-gun to clean the crap out (after using my fingers to get the big stuff out - and there was some crap blocking the drain.) It turns out, if the drain is plugged and enough water gets into the area (I did an experiment with a pitcher of water), it will overflow around the edge of the sunroof, and the headliner happily routes it right down the A pillar trim with the plastic backing of the trim keeping it flowing nicely down past the fusebox and out eventually to soak the floor. Lesson - clean sunroof drains. I blew them out, then checked again with a pitcher of water, and the water happily ran out the bottom of the truck, and none appeared along the drain line, or dribbling down the headliner. Here is the rough location of the drain as seen from up top. It's actually almost (not quite, but almost, you'll need a good Maglite to see it) impossible to see due to the wind-dam popup in the sunroof housing. While I was in the area, I cleaned up the fuzzy edge of the sunroof gasket (it had hardened munge on it) and where it meets the body (which also had hardened munge on it) in the hope that the gasket seals better. I'm awaiting the next rainstorm (doesn't look like it will be a real long wait - probably tomorrow) to see if this actually helped anything. Thanks to RFM for suggesting I check the sunroof drain. Biggest trick is getting so you can see it.
  45. 1 point
    I considered buying them from Becker - pretty pricey. (price is per knob) Came across a DYI for coating the knobs with plastic and decided to give it a try - total cost ~ $6.50 - no brainer at that price. Result is excellent - like new knobs - I am german and very picky. Here is the link: http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Fix_Sticky_Radio_Buttons.html
  46. 1 point
    You need to connect the LINE outputs from your new head unit to the amplifier in the trunk - not the speaker cables, using the adapter cable like the orange one in my picture above. Pin Number Wire Color Function 5 Blue/White Amplifier Remote 6 Blue Antenna Remote - to "Exhibit A" pin A5 7 Red Accessory 12 Volts - to "Exhibit A" pin A7 8 Black Ground - to "Exhibit A" pin A8 13 Sky Blue Telephone Mute - to "Exhibit A" pin A3 14 Orange/White Illumination ( the wire isnt there ) - to "Exhibit A" pin A6 15 Not Used Not Used 16 Yellow Constant 12 Volts - to "Exhibit A" pin A4 As I said, you will need to connect the blue/white wire on the orange adapter to a switched feed. Most people hook it up to A5 with the antenna switched power, but you may be able to connect it to pin 5 of your new head unit.
  47. 1 point
    My '01 5sp. 2.7L Boxster has 130k miles. I've replaced the diagonal control arms on the front and rear (ball joints rattled), the water pump (it went out on a road trip at 120k miles), the convertible top (this was replaced with a GAHH glass window top after the plastic window cracked), and the exhaust system was realigned (loud exhaust rattle). The RMS leaks very very slightly...I'll replace that whenever I have to replace the clutch. It's still running strong, looks great, and is a pleasure to drive. I try to do all the maintenance myself and it's a pleasure to work on...those German engineers knew what they were doing.
  48. 1 point
    Forgot...three window regulators R/H side, two window regulators L/H
  49. 1 point
    The wire you want is the one farther towards the center of the console, i.e., not the one nearer towards the edge. tmc Beautiful, beautiful post! Just finished the install on an '06 CTTS and it was as easy as pie. Thanks for the efforts behind the post! I LOVE RENNTECH.ORG!
  50. 1 point
    New to this forum and seeing if there is something different outside the 356 Registry. I run a small website dedicated to the 356 and thought it might be of some value to the members here. http://www.cyberwerkstatt.com Check it out and let me know if it is helpful. ed www.cyberwerkstatt.com
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