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If the oil cap is hard to remove, you have a high vacuum level in the sump, which is bad for a variety of reasons, including lean stalling. The correct way to access the AOS is to fully warm up the engine by driving the car for 10-15 min, then replace the oil cap with the one in the picture above with a hose that connects to the digital manometer. If the vacuum level exceeds 6-7 inches of water vacuum, the AOS is leaking air into the intake system, causing the lean stall conditions. The normal level of vacuum is typically 4-5 inches of water, which is a really weak vacuum level, so it doesn't take much of a leak to cause problems, which is why we always checked every car that passed thru the shop with the manometer.

The AOS can either be pin pointed or eliminated by having the car's sump vacuum level checked with a digital manometer (most quality shops have them as the AOS is a perpetual issue; surprise the dealer didn't do this).

Welcome to RennTech If you do not have access to a wiring diagram for the vehicle, probably the easiest way to check the ground is to pull the bulb in the light and use a multimeter to check the condition of the ground at the bulb socket.

We have used them here in the US for years at MUCH colder temperature's than you get without ANY issues. Put on the adaptor, add external magnets such as the Filter Mag, and enjoy both better filtration and peace of mind.......

Welcome to RennTech The factory radio had a ground wire that had to be attached to the car's chassis under the dash as a simple anti theft device. If that ground is not there, the immobilizer will prevent the car from starting.

Be sure to use some protective material on the mirror base. Set the pliers with the protecting parts to the windshield to the diameter of the mirror base and secure to the mirror base. Turn the rearview mirror through 90 degrees at the mirror base using the pliers. Then, unclip the base of the interior rearview mirror from the retainer plate on the windshield. When you reinstall the mirror be careful not to go beyond the 90 degrees locking point. If you remove the mirror base from the windshield you will need a special cleaning/glue kit from Porsche to reinstall it.

Chances are your 20 plus year springs have softened and are already sagging a bit. Springs, swaybars and struts are a matched set - I would not mix them as you could produce unstable handling. Especially if you track the car. RoW 030 is fine for street and most track driving - you just have to be careful of large speed bumps on the street. PSS-9 (adjustable) Coilovers can supply suspension tuning and even lower for track days - but you would definitely want to raise it up for street.

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I waited until I could confirm my problem is solved. After asking the dealer multiple time about vacuum level measured with a digital manometer and never getting a straight answer, I spent some time talking to the tech before proceeding. According to him, the reason the car would start when cold is it was still going through the 90ish second startup sequence with secondary air injection, coupled with the vacuum leak caused by the AOS. Which, to my not-very-Porsche-tech brain kind of made sense. After getting the AOS replaced, along with a cracked brittle oil fill tube and one or two other related minor bits that were also old, cracked and or worn out, the car seems to run fine, was actually quieter than I ever remember, and the stalling problem is resolved. And no CEL since the repair. There was never any big clouds of smoke usually associated with a failing / failed AOS.

I put it in my 2004 Turbo Cab and it works great. plug and play though playing content through your iphone is not as loud as the normal stereo... you don't have to purchase the NAV card; you can use apple carplay... works a treat. Hope that helps.

P2189 Lambda control adaptation FRAU (lower load range) (FRAU > 0.7) - below limit value Possible fault causes - Incorrect main filling signal from hot-film mass air flow meter - Fuel pressure too high - Injection valve faulty (dripping) - Tank vent faulty (does not close completely) P2189 Lambda control adaptation FRAU (lower load range) (FRAU > 1.3) - above limit value Possible fault causes - Intake system leaking (secondary air) - Incorrect main filling signal from hot-film mass air flow meter - Leak in exhaust system - Fuel pressure too low - Fuel injector faulty (stuck) - Fuel pump delivery too low P2187 Lambda control adaptation FRAU (lower load range) (FRAU > 0.7) - below limit value Possible fault causes - Incorrect main filling signal from hot-film mass air flow meter - Fuel pressure too high - Injection valve faulty (dripping) - Tank vent faulty (does not close completely) P2187 Lambda control adaptation FRAU (lower load range) (FRAU > 1.3) - below limit value Possible fault causes - Intake system leaking (secondary air) - Incorrect main filling signal from hot-film mass air flow meter - Leak in exhaust system - Fuel pressure too low - Fuel injector faulty (stuck) - Fuel pump delivery too low

I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and so far, seems to have fixed the problem. The engine has started a lot quicker when cold and when warm. One of the easier jobs I have done on this vehicle. Although I do have one of these lifts I purchased about 8 years ago, it sure helps a lot (made in Germany): Scissor lifts WWW.TWINBUSCH.DE Scissor lifts

Try 1098

Try 9786

I'd start with checking the alternator, is it putting out 14.5 V DC at idle? If not, I would check to make sure you properly reconnected the wiring.

You are likely going to need a Porsche specific scan tool like Durametric or Porsche PIWIS to diagnose the fault in the alarm system. Once you scan the fault codes post the fault number(s) here and we will give your the possible causes of the fault.

Try 5425

Try 3098

I came across this old post in a Google search and thought I'd provide an update. The Porsche part number for the adjustable linkage is 986-424-931-06 and is available from Pelican Parts for about $250. Numeric Racing makes an all-metal version for $130. The adjustment procedure for the adjustable-length linkage is available in the Porsche OEM Service Manual.

Try 4870

If you get a honk it means you have at least one zone open or one (or more) fault codes. You will need a Porsche compatible scanner to get the fault code and report it here. It should narrow down exactly where the problem(s) are.

Try 9098

Now you know why Loctite exists...........

Sorry, my typo try 9510

You should be fine.

Try 6814

I haven't seen on these forums anyone who has rebuilt their 997.1 using LN Engineering nickies. I just thought I'd share my experiences. I had a stock 997.1 2006 Carrera S. At 132,000 i scored a cylinder in the middle of nowhere in Kansas. the rebuild consisted of: 1. LN Engineering 4.0 “nickies”, ceramic hybrid ball-bearing IMS retrofit, and JE Pistons2. LN Engineering low temperature thermostat3. 997.1 "Competition" Carrera IPD Plenum & GT3 throttle body 4. third radiator 5. replaced water pump the ever so quick summary: low end power--amazing. mid range--amazing. high range rpms--amazing. for those of use that like the “feel” of a 996 and 997.1 (the 997.2 and the 991 are, to my mind, fundamentally different in this regard), this rebuild results in an intoxicating drive. I haven’t put this thing on a dyno and to be honest i’m not all that interested. the horsepower gains are so prominent, it would simply be an academic exercise to establish that I have from +60hp to +75hp--it’s that impressive.Things to keep in mind This turned out to be a very long process. if you are deciding on doing this, please check with LN Engineering to understand what tools are required. I had my car rebuilt twice by a nationally renowned porsche mechanic (he has won several awards on his expertise in building porsche race engines) at a porsche dealer. the first time didn’t go well as there was a chip in one of the pistons that required them to do it again. what went wrong? i don't really know. on the one hand, upon looking at the old water pump after the second rebuild, all the "fins" were chipped away and indeed the pieces may have found a way to the piston. on the other hand, there appears to have been special tools that even they didn’t have to properly install the pistons the first time around (this is my interpretation of what representatives at JE Pistons and LN Engineering told me). they purchased the necessary equipment the second time around and the result is amazing. Ladies and Gentleman, there aren't many porsche shops in the United States that have opened up a 997.1 engine and put it together again successfully. This particular shop had three mechanics who regularly open up 997.1 engines. The mechanics at Aristocrat Motors in Kansas City are excellent at what they do and sill we had to do it twice to get it right. we learn from making sense of the unknown and I have no doubt that Aristocrat Motors would do an excellent job on your car if you decided to go this route. I’m only mentioning this to emphasize that no matter how good that mechanic is, check with LN Engineering to make sure that the place where you are having this done has the proper equipment. if not, there is a more than probable chance that mistakes can happen during the tuning.

Just now figured it out on my ‘09 C2S Step 1. Press Info button Step 2. Press Option button Step3. Click the on screen option ‘Set PCCM System’ Step 4. Click the on screen option ‘Reset’ Step 5. Click the on screen option ‘Vehicle hand over’ (did not choose factory settings as did not want to rick loosing any version updates ir messing something else) Step 6 and 7: select Yes for confirmations to proceed. All devices should be gone now plus any other data like phonebook and navigation addresses. you may also notice that in the Source menu, some options like AUX/iPOD etc have also disappeared. Go to Source: Select ‘Disc’ (have to have a disc inserted and car engine running), then click Options and it takes you to a menu to select various sources to select and display in the Source menu Hope this helps. Good Luck

This is what it looks like right now. First extended drive completed without any issue. Slightly more precise shifter feel (duh.. less slop) 🙂 . .

I confirmed by using, as well as a reputable Porsche indie, the Pentosin CHF 11S works well without issue. Also Pentosin CHF 202 works well if you cant find the 11S. A friend whose had his 911 cab much longer than I uses John Deere trans/hydraulic fluid and it works well.

The RHS rear window regulator on my 02 C4 Cab broke last week too. Above posts were helpful to get this thing out and in quickly. My remaining problem was that I had that quick replacement for the broken regulator was not as simple as I thought (not much supply on intact used items, and rebuilds will take at least a few days back & forth). Short on patience, I analyzed the technical problem itself it turned out that the upper roll and rear string guide were compromised ((cracked in two pieces and missing at all resp.)). I ended up making a custom roller and guide from some old in-line skate-type rollers (yes, including one ball bearing) and another Polyamid block for the guide. The rest was some filing / cutting (I had a lathe to cut the string grove , but otherwise I used hand tools), and after about two hours later, I had the roll-arch-drive back to life assembled. The drive runs very good, and I think the bearing is a real upgrade to the drive, and possibly will outlast many other bits on the car. Since it was really no big deal to get this fixed much quicker that ordering anything- here a few pictures for those who may consider a DIY - fix of the drive parts as well. iH

P0455 Leakage in fuel tank system Diagnostic conditions D Vehicle speed = 0 km/h D Engine speed = 0 rpm D Correction factor, height > 0.73 D Coolant temperature upon starting the engine may be no more than 6.8 K above ambient temperature D Coolant temperature when engine starts > 3.8 °C D Period for which the engine needs to have been running before ignition is switched off > 20 minutes D Ignition has been switched off for at least 10 seconds. D Ambient temperature 4 … 35.3 °C D Active charcoal filter load < 3 for minor leak D Fuel tank fuel level 10 … 54 litres D Battery positive voltage 11.02 ... 14.5 V D No fuel tank filling D No faults detected for ambient pressure sensor, coolant temperature sensor, vehicle speed sensor D No output stage faults detected for DMTL pump motor, DMTL switch-over valves and tank vent D No fault detected for tank vent (flow) E The diagnostic conditions can also be established using the PIWIS Tester via the short test "tank leakage test". After the test has begun, the ignition must be switched off. F NOTE E In this context, please also observe the function description. Possible fault causes E Tank cap not closed correctly, leaking or missing E Purge air line leaking E Tank vent leaking E DMTL (Tank Leakage Diagnostics Module) leaking E Leakage in fuel tank system Page 140 of 398 07/20/2006 Function description Tank leakage test/DMTL – Tank Leakage Diagnostics Module F Note E The tank leakage test is performed only on USA vehicles. Construction of the tank leakage diagnostics module: The diagnostics module consists of an electric motor with a small air pump, switch-over valves and a reference nozzle. In addition, the modul is heated so as to prevent the forming of condensation and ice. Procedure of the function: E The pump is operated via an electric motor and conveys air through the reference leak. The power consumed during this process is determined. E The switch-over valve switches and the air current is now directed into the fuel tank. The power consumed during this process is also determined. After a waiting period dependent on the fuel tank fuel level, it must be at least as high as the power consumption was during the reference leak test if the tank system is leak-free. E The system is identified to by leaking if the power consumption is lower during the actual leakage test as it was during the reference leak test. E An evaluation of the power consumption levels when the pump is started and after the switch-over valve has switched serves to identify faults within the tank leakage diagnostic module (e.g. pump blocked, motor spins at idle speed, valve does not switch etc.). E The diagnosis of heating, motor and switch-over valve is performed via the output stage of the DME control module. P0456 Leakage in fuel tank system Diagnostic conditions D Vehicle speed = 0 km/h D Engine speed = 0 rpm D Correction factor, height > 0.73 D Coolant temperature upon starting the engine may be no more than 6.8 K above ambient temperature D Coolant temperature when engine starts > 3.8 °C D Period for which the engine needs to have been running before ignition is switched off > 20 minutes D Ignition has been switched off for at least 10 seconds. D Ambient temperature 4 … 35.3 °C D Active charcoal filter load < 3 for minor leak D Fuel tank fuel level 10 … 54 litres D Battery positive voltage 11.02 ... 14.5 V D No fuel tank filling D No faults detected for ambient pressure sensor, coolant temperature sensor, vehicle speed sensor D No output stage faults detected for DMTL pump motor, DMTL switch-over valves and tank vent D No fault detected for tank vent (flow) E The diagnostic conditions can also be established using the PIWIS Tester via the short test "tank leakage test". After the test has begun, the ignition must be switched off. F NOTE E In this context, please also observe the function description. Possible fault causes E Tank cap not closed correctly, leaking or missing E Purge air line leaking E Tank vent leaking E DMTL (Tank Leakage Diagnostics Module) leaking E Leakage in fuel tank system Function description Tank leakage test/DMTL – Tank Leakage Diagnostics Module F Note E The tank leakage test is performed only on USA vehicles. Construction of the tank leakage diagnostics module: The diagnostics module consists of an electric motor with a small air pump, switch-over valves and a reference nozzle. In addition, the modul is heated so as to prevent the forming of condensation and ice. Procedure of the function: E The pump is operated via an electric motor and conveys air through the reference leak. The power consumed during this process is determined. E The switch-over valve switches and the air current is now directed into the fuel tank. The power consumed during this process is also determined. After a waiting period dependent on the fuel tank fuel level, it must be at least as high as the power consumption was during the reference leak test if the tank system is leak-free. E The system is identified to by leaking if the power consumption is lower during the actual leakage test as it was during the reference leak test. E An evaluation of the power consumption levels when the pump is started and after the switch-over valve has switched serves to identify faults within the tank leakage diagnostic module (e.g. pump blocked, motor spins at idle speed, valve does not switch etc.). E The diagnosis of heating, motor and switch-over valve is performed via the output stage of the DME control module.

Hi Everyone, Well, I finally managed to purchase my first Porsche - a 2004 Turbo Cayenne with 86k miles and most of the normal out of warranty work already done (coolant tubes, cardan shaft, etc) and am thrilled to be a member of the Porsche community! Prior to purchasing it, I read through many articles on Porsche ownership to get an idea of normal problems and remedies. Renntech has been a treasure of information and I would now like to give back a little bit to the community. The dreaded CEL arose after 2 months of ownership and I took the CTT into O'Reillys (thanks O'Reillys) to get a fault code read out. It showed that my passenger side pre-cat O2 sensor was bad so I order a new one and proceeded to read through as many DIY articles as I could find on the topic. This one and the one on Pelican Parts were most helpful and are what I used as my basis. My initial plan was to remove the inner wheel well per sswong98"s good details above. I started down this path, took off the wheel and decided to take a peek underneath before removing the wheel well simply to assess how much room I had to work with. To make a long story short, I ended up being able to remove and replace the O2 sensor within the very confined space given and without removing the wheel well. In all, it took 90 minutes after jostling about quite a bit and trying different tools. I thought this might be another alternative of value to offer to this community so I'll describe it briefly here. 1) Follow SSwong98's steps of: a) jack up vehicle B) turn wheels right ​to wheel lock c) remove front passenger tire d) remove 02 sensor electrical connection at firewall. At this point you can see how much room I had to work with between the body, suspension, etc. The photo with the end of the 3/8 ratchet extension shows where to view and then subsequent photos show the amount of clearance and the 02 sensor. Basically, I was able to use a 22mm open ended wrench and get it into the space shown in the photos. Lying on my back, I was able to get the wrench between the suspension and inner wheel well and break the 0@ sensor loose. Once I had it broken loose, I could use my fingers to unscrew the O2 sensor, again lying on my back and from underneath the vehicle. Unscrewing the )2 sensor was not difficult but took about 5 minutes as I could only turn it slightly, then re-grip the sensor so that the wire did not cause it to screw back in, and then continue this process until it was removed. I could have also cut the sensor wire which would have eliminated some of the torque produced by the wire and made it slightly easier to unscrew the sensor. Once the sensor was out, I removed the original heat shield from the original O2 sensor wire by cutting it lengthwise. My goal was to reuse it on the new sensor. I then drilled 4 small pilot holes on both side of this heat shield (sorry, forgot to take photos) and placed a pop rivet into each in order to have it hold in place around the O2 sensor wire. The most challenging part was getting the new 02 sensor started into the mounting hole. I dropped the sensor in from the top of the engine and was able to locate the sensor quite easily. I was also able to reach up from underneath the vehicle, grasp the sensor with a thumb and finger and get the O2 sensor into the mounting hole. However, once again, the sensor wire created a torque that prevented me from being able to start the sensor correctly into the threading. After trying various options for 5 minutes, I called in the calvary... I asked my son to hold the sensor wire from the engine bay side and to turn the wire slightly in a clockwise manner so that the sensor wire torque worked in my favor. I also repositioned myself so that I could get a much better grasp of the sensor. Instead on lying on my back looking up at the sensor, I sat down in front of the caliper and was able to reach the sensor through the same opening as before. While I could not see the sensor, I had it placed into the mounting hole from before so all I needed to do was to get it to start threading properly. In this seated in front of the caliper position, I was able to much more easily grasp and turn the sensor and got it threaded within a few seconds. At the same time, I told my son to slowly keep tuning the sensor wire. Once the sensor was hand tight, I used the 22mm open ended wrench to tighten it. All told, it took about 90 minutes from wheels up to wheels down. Some other notes: I ordered the special O2 sensor socket from Pelican (same one shown in SSWONG98's write up) but, very oddly, could not get enough room from the top or bottom to be able to get it onto the sensor. Removing the inner fender well would have helped here. I also would suggest getting a stubby 22mm open ended wrench as this would allowed more freedom for movement. The one I had was about 14 inches long. I also had a line wrench (shown in one photo) that was a bit shorter in length and worked very well. Well, I hope that this is some value to this great community

And with regards to the original post, which I hope is already fixed (just posting all this because Im new and have been doing evap for 15 years all makes but porsche lately) since this had a pump sense circuit in addition to large leak...Id generally start with pump diagnostics (does it turn on/pump when commanded?) and is it getting vacuum (the small line). If its getting vacuum (remove the small line at the pump when running) and it cant see it...pump is bad. If there is a problem with the pumps diaphragm leaking internally so it never moves despite vacuum...same issue, bad pump. If its pumping like a champ...but the vent is plugged solid as loren said, it will still see itself as bad. (most cars dont measure pressure for anything by the tank itself, they dont know how much PRESSURE anywhere else in the system, they see the CHANGE as indication that it worked. pressure change on/off switches are much cheaper to make than pressure measurement sensors that can record exact amounts). TYPICALLY, in most diagnostics post 2000, when a code uses the word CIRCUIT, you are chasing something electrical that isnt changing as expected or isnt showing proper voltage/ground as expected even when not active. unplugged stuff sets a CIRCUIT CODE.Shorted wires set CIRCUIT codes. leaking hoses set LEAK codes or PRESSURE codes. RANGE codes are the factorys way of saying IT COULD BE EITHER, SINCE A LEAK WILL SHOW SENSOR VOLTAGE THAT ISNT WHERE WE WANT IT, BUT ISNT SHORTED....but they like to hedge so they say RANGE. It means its likely electrical, but dont rule out a leak entirely and look at the electrical values if you have a tool to do so. So if you get a code that says PURGE CONTROL CIRCUIT, or LDP CIRCUIT, the 1st thing I check is the component is plugged in, and the wires going to it arent broken down or oil soaked. IF they look good, most solenoids are 2 wires, 1 a constant hot of 12v, the other a switched ground from the computer to turn it on or pulse it on rapidly to control flow. Evap solenoids almost always are pulsed...hence why they CLICK when they are working...they dont stay open or closed because that is uncontrolled flow. By pulsing at different amounts, they can open it 50% of the tyme or 70% or 20% and regulate flow. If the circuits function, and have power and ground (on or pulsed), then start checking for leaks as described above. It will be there. Also be aware, you can set circuit codes quite easily while testing. Unplug anything that is constantly checked (most components on newer cars) and check codes immediately...code is instant...even if you plugged it in 1 second later and its reconnected. Just clear the codes and if the code comes back instantly, its broken internally, bad wiring, or bad computer. circuits are constant...they are plugged in and work. Or they set codes.

Although embarrassing to air my mistake, I thought I would post this in hopes I might save someone else from the same problem: If you have adjustable coilover shocks, do not attempt to change your car's ride height unless you are doing it while corner balancing with scales. I rationalized that if I set the ride height using the factory measuring method (documented in multiple places on this site) I would get "close enough" to a balanced car for a 996 that isn't tracked. Wrong. I worked on a level floor, with a full tank of gas (per spec), new tires with factory-recommended tire pressures, using the factory-recommended ride height measurement points, drove the car a few yards after each change to settle the suspension, and after a lot of hard work I was dead on with each of the four measurements. A local indie shop, not really performance oriented, vetted my approach and said it should be fine, it's what they would do. Even after a perfect-to-the-spec alignment this morning the car pulls to the right, enough at 40 mph with hands off the wheel to change lanes in less than 50 yards. My effort was wasted and I'm out the cost of that alignment. The car goes in for a pro corner balance to correct the issue and I'll end up paying for another alignment. Lesson learned. In truth, the effort wasn't entirely wasted because I learned about the stiffness of the chassis, how even a minute change of 1mm in shock adjustment can affect all four wheels, and how each of the wheels is affected. Dialing in the ride height was a PITA but a learning experience that I believe transfers to doing a corner balance. If you install height-adjustable shocks, you must corner balance for optimal handling even if your car is a daily driver and not tracked. Bless you suspension techs who do corner balancing for a living!

Latest: Faultless starting, hot or cold, during past 2-3 months.

Uwon, 1. i'm not particularly patient. at some point, it became evident to me that the problem was beyond my control 2. first water pump failed and was replaced around 32,000 miles. 3. the low-temp thermostat: oil temps appear to heat up just as quick but the oil temp is much quicker to cool down when things get hot (>225 degrees Fahrenheit) .

Do you have photos of the stitching? I'm a bit afraid to go that route without seeing how it might look. With a good needle and (a lot of) patience, you can actually sew the stitches exactly into the original stitch holes and it will be completely undetectable. Regards, Maurice.

Correct.

TSB 13/98 6119 Convertible Top Latch Cover Replacement -- dated 3-25-99

I am going to take another look - but the short answer is yes. The fuses are all fine, and the ground point looked okay by a quick visual inspection, but I will take it off and clean it to be sure. However, I did do the following: removed the fuses from the area of the box I have been describing, then tested the ground connection there by running power from another connection through it. It appeared to be fine, which is the point when I ruled out the ground connection as the failure (which was what I suspected first). Mark

Thanks dmcole for the write up, great job. I would like to incorporate my photos to your words. I hope I don't butcher it. When putting things back together I did something a little different as my light switch did not have enough wire length. First things first: 1) Completely disconnect the battery. I can’t prove that total disconnection was necessary, but I also didn’t have the alarm go off suddenly. Better safe than deaf or shot by the neighbors. 2) Remove the rubber gasket around the ignition key. I could pull mine off just using my fingers. 3) Remove the left hand vent. There’s a nice writeup on this already; so I won’t repeat all of that here. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...ost&id=6617 Here are the basic steps from the link: Insert narrow screwdriver into hole under the switch. Turn blade up, not flat. Here is what it looks like from the backside. Remove 3 screws from the above areas. Give a gentle pull from the top. mine was a little stuck. Disconnect plug connection, I had to pry with a screwdriver as my wires were not long enough to let my hands get behind the vent. keep this in mind as we get to the end of this DYI. 4) Once the vent is removed, remove the screw straight in the back back that holds the vent tube in place. 5) Now reach or crawl under the dash and remove the center horizontal vent tube under the steering column and the vertical one you just freed up in the step above. 6) Put on a long sleeve shirt. After working through the vent hole for a couple of hours, my forearm is pretty beat up today. I’ll save you the same realization… You’re now ready to start working on the issue at hand. 1) Reach to the back and disconnect the wiring harness from the ignition switch. It just goes straight off the back; no special clips there and don’t twist it. Looking through the vent hole A little closer look. 2) Remove the immobilizer. It’s the black box on top of the steering lock housing. Unclip the little wiring harness on the front right. This one has a little catch on it so don’t just pull it out. There is a little plastic Phillips head near the key that you give a quarter-turn. Mine had ‘wings’ on the Phillips head that I could turn by hand. Once you’ve turned this, slide the immobilizer straight toward you along the top of the steering lock housing. That will free it up to remove. Here is what it looks like removed. 3) Remove the key cylinder. Around the key hole is a silver beauty ring. Around the edge of that ring is a small hole. Make sure the hole is near the 7 o’clock position instead of near 1 o’clock. Mine had turned 180 degrees at some point and made this cylinder removal impossible until I figured that out. Insert your valet key (it’s just easier, but your regular remote key will work) and turn to position 1. Now stick a straightened paper clip (I used one of the larger, sturdier clips instead of a standard one) in as far as it will go. The cylinder should virtually fall out if you’ve done this right. If you’re having to tug on the key to pull it, try again. Carefully disconnect the electrical clip from the key cylinder. Leave both the key and clip in the cylinder and set the thing aside. My switch was in the 1 o'clock position when I started but went back in at 7 o'clock position.??? 4) Disconnect the steering lock housing mounting screw near the key. This requires the same Torx bit you used to remove the side vent cover. I didn’t have a stubby Tork driver; so I clamped the bit into a pair of needle-nose Vise-Grips to get it loose. Once loosened, I could unscrew it by hand. Once the screw is out, swing the vertical mounting strut up and out of the way. 5) Disconnect the mounting bolt next to the steering column. A small 10mm ratchet worked for me. I didn’t have to put a wrench on the nut, but I had to use a bit of hand work to finally get the nut off and the bolt out. 6) Remove the steering lock housing. The trick here is that there is a spring-button that locks the housing into the steering column. You can see what you’re up against by looking at your replacement part. You depress the spring through a small hole on the steering column. I used a 2mm allen wrench to depress the button so that I could wiggle the housing out. Now you need to prep the new part. 1) Remove all of the clips from the old housing and attach them to the new one. There is a metal clip that secures the mounting screw near the key hole and two plastic wiring guide clips. I removed the plastic clips by punching out the center pins from the bottom (they are small and actually come completely out; don’t lose them) and then carefully squeezing the prongs until the clip came off. Attach them to the new part. 2) Put a little lubricant (just a light surface wiping, nothing more) on the housing surfaces that insert into the steering column. Install the new steering lock housing: 1) If the shiny silver steering lock ‘spear’ is extended from the housing, use a large flat blade screwdriver in the center of where the key cylinder would go and simulate turning the car on. This will retract the spear. 2) Insert the end of the housing into the steering column. This was the hardest part for me. I don’t know if the new part was just thousandths of an inch bigger or what, but it was 20 minutes of wiggling and jiggling that thing to get it in. Don’t forget that you will have to depress the little spring pin once it gets to the flange. I wasn’t sure I heard the spring pin pop into place in that hole; so I crawled under the dash to inspect it to be sure I seated the thing completely. 3) Replace the mounting screw near the key hole. By the way, I never replaced the 10mm bolt at the steering column. I couldn’t figure out how to restart the nut on the bolt, plus with that spring pin engaged, I can’t see how the housing could ever come out under normal use. 4) Reconnect the wiring harness to the ignition switch in the back. 5) Reconnect the immobilizer and its wiring clip. 6) Push the key cylinder in firmly (aligning it in the little guide on the top left of the steering lock housing) and pull the paper clip. It should be secured. Remove the key. Reconnect the tiny wiring clip to the key cylinder. 7) Reconnect the battery. 8) Start the car at this point to ensure that you’ve done everything right. If the car won’t start, something didn’t get reconnected properly or you have a different issue. Note: it is not necessary to have the headlight switch reassembled to start the car. If the car starts at this point, start replacing the rest of the stuff you pulled out. Start with the vent tubing. It was helpful to loosely attach the vertical tube with its screw before reconnecting the horizontal tube underneath. Once done underneath, tighten the vertical tube and replace everything else. Be very careful with the headlight switch reattachment as that lighted ring looks pretty fragile and the little bulbs have to fit exactly right into the plastic ring that covers it. Start ‘er up and hope that the new part is a thousand times more reliable than the one you replaced. Additions: Below are a couple of steps that I went through to put back the vent and light switch back together. I removed the switch from the vent and attached it back onto the plug. Insert the switch through the vent assy and twist to lock into postion. make sure that you connect the remaining ring plug and replace vent and screws. reattach the ring and put the nut and knob back on. now go get some Band-Aids to cover your banged up knuckels. :lol: BTW the part cost me $135 but if you plan in advance you can get much cheaper at Sunset Imports. I am not sure what I would have saved in labor. It was a fun project that took me a bit longer due to photos and dinner. (4 hrs) Enjoy, Halo

Sounds like it needs the throttle body cleaned.

On the seat mounting at the front (item 13).

Toolpants is right, www.dennisvogel.com has the information you need. Look in his Boxster section for the article on heated seats. It is great and has many pictures. I did mine in the fall of 2005 using his instructions and adpated them for a 996. I can give you an updated parts list for the 996. If you have a coupe you can put the swtiches on the rear center console like the Boxster, in a cap you need the lower dash Batwing. It also helps to have a Service manual, but I can send you the info you need. I bought all the parts from Sunset for about $650. Did all the work myself except using the hog clips to secure the covers on the upper seat back centers. I got an upholstery shop to do this for $50, but you can by the clips and a set of pliers for about $20 from JC Whitney. The project took about 5-6 hours of my time and the results are grat, just like the factory setup. Let me know if I can be of help. GOOD LUCK

You twist the shaft of the mirror. This is my Boxster mirror on the trunk. A 996 is the same way. Jeff