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If the oil cap is hard to remove, you have a high vacuum level in the sump, which is bad for a variety of reasons, including lean stalling. The correct way to access the AOS is to fully warm up the engine by driving the car for 10-15 min, then replace the oil cap with the one in the picture above with a hose that connects to the digital manometer. If the vacuum level exceeds 6-7 inches of water vacuum, the AOS is leaking air into the intake system, causing the lean stall conditions. The normal level of vacuum is typically 4-5 inches of water, which is a really weak vacuum level, so it doesn't take much of a leak to cause problems, which is why we always checked every car that passed thru the shop with the manometer.

The AOS can either be pin pointed or eliminated by having the car's sump vacuum level checked with a digital manometer (most quality shops have them as the AOS is a perpetual issue; surprise the dealer didn't do this).

Welcome to RennTech If you do not have access to a wiring diagram for the vehicle, probably the easiest way to check the ground is to pull the bulb in the light and use a multimeter to check the condition of the ground at the bulb socket.

We have used them here in the US for years at MUCH colder temperature's than you get without ANY issues. Put on the adaptor, add external magnets such as the Filter Mag, and enjoy both better filtration and peace of mind.......

Welcome to RennTech The factory radio had a ground wire that had to be attached to the car's chassis under the dash as a simple anti theft device. If that ground is not there, the immobilizer will prevent the car from starting.

Be sure to use some protective material on the mirror base. Set the pliers with the protecting parts to the windshield to the diameter of the mirror base and secure to the mirror base. Turn the rearview mirror through 90 degrees at the mirror base using the pliers. Then, unclip the base of the interior rearview mirror from the retainer plate on the windshield. When you reinstall the mirror be careful not to go beyond the 90 degrees locking point. If you remove the mirror base from the windshield you will need a special cleaning/glue kit from Porsche to reinstall it.

Item 13 is the radial shaft seal. (click the image to enlarge it)

Blue/white marking are stock springs. For factory Sport Suspension you will need new springs, stuts, and swaybars. RoW Sport Suspension Package for 3.2S 6 speed - Carnewal WWW.CARNEWAL.COM

I waited until I could confirm my problem is solved. After asking the dealer multiple time about vacuum level measured with a digital manometer and never getting a straight answer, I spent some time talking to the tech before proceeding. According to him, the reason the car would start when cold is it was still going through the 90ish second startup sequence with secondary air injection, coupled with the vacuum leak caused by the AOS. Which, to my not-very-Porsche-tech brain kind of made sense. After getting the AOS replaced, along with a cracked brittle oil fill tube and one or two other related minor bits that were also old, cracked and or worn out, the car seems to run fine, was actually quieter than I ever remember, and the stalling problem is resolved. And no CEL since the repair. There was never any big clouds of smoke usually associated with a failing / failed AOS.

I put it in my 2004 Turbo Cab and it works great. plug and play though playing content through your iphone is not as loud as the normal stereo... you don't have to purchase the NAV card; you can use apple carplay... works a treat. Hope that helps.

Try 8964

That's trouble. Recheck connections. Use Deoxit on the plug-in connectors. Use fine grit sandpaper (and clean off the grit left by sanding) on the nutted connections. Is it possible you shorted something out as you removed the battery? Were the battery cable ends removed at the battery? Is it the original alternator? It might be possible that it's only the voltage regulator module.

What are your voltages? Resting, idling, driving above 2000rpm? There are gizmos to help with this monitoring - Antigravity Batteries has a battery tracker. Others plug into the cigarette lighter. Do you have any codes (can be read with Durametric and other (OBDII) readers)? I've read stories on Rennlist about induced electrical noise in the sound system even when the sound system is not turned on. Might your alternator be damaged or no longer have a high quality ground? Could the noise be mechanical (transmitted noise)? You did change pulleys. Run the car a few minutes without the serpentine belt and see if the noise is reproduced.

Try 5346

Try 6909

Try 2190

Perhaps - what is more important is the wheel offset. The fronts should be fine as both Boxster and 996 use 50 mm offset on 17 inch front wheels. The rear wheels for Boxster are 50 mm standard with an option of 55 mm. With the 55 mm offset wheel you are not allowed to install chains as they will damage the fender. So just be careful of offset for your uses.

Try 5425

Try 5048

Try 5435

If the cluster has ever been taken out there is a chance that they did not get all the plugs re-inserted properly (making poor contact). I would start with that and re-test.

You shouldn’t let the car warm up while you make coffee. The result is bore scoring due to the bottom and top of the pistons being heated at different rates. I don’t even start the car until my belt is fastened and I’m ready to put it into gear. This ensures the car will warm up the way it was designed to.

Does the battery have a vent port and did you connect the vent tube?

Try 0687

Sorry, my typo try 9510

Please do not double post your problem in multiple forum sections, it is against forum rules, and you will get an answer when one becomes available.

The valve lift system, like the Vario Cam system, are hydraulicly operated using the engine oil pressure network. One of the biggest problems with all of these systems is that they were designed with very small oil passages, making them very susceptible to problems with particles of debris in the oil blocking the passages. The fact that you found debris in the valve lift screen points to where the issue probably lies.

Attended an introductory high performance driving school at the National Corvette Museum Motorsports Park in my new to me 2002 996.2 C2! It was awesome! Learned a lot and had a great time. We had classes, autocross, & track time all day long. There were only 10 of us so we pretty much had an instructor to each pair all day. I learned that I am slow & can’t rev match downshift very good at all. Also learned that my stock suspension car has some body roll, understeer, & some brake feel issues. I’m thinking about some braided brake lines, good fluid, new tires, & some Ohlins suspension to start with. I have read a lot of threads about suspension, sway bars, tops, and linkages. Is there a definite go to for top mounts? I’ve been looking at the Ohlins or Tarett mounts. I want to do the coil overs first & then the sway bars. Any comments or recommendations are appreciated. The car will be used as my sunny day driver & once a month track day experience.

Yes.

Try 1076

The engine serial number would have been built in late 2005 or early 2006. Porsche rebuilt engines always get the latest parts and a warranty. To be sure you would have to open the engine to get the IMD diameter. If you want insurance then you can install one of the 3rd party IMS oiler solutions. IMS Solution: Oil Fed Plain IMS Bearing - No Ball or Roller Intermediate Shaft Bearings LNENGINEERING.COM IMS bearing failures are expensive. The IMS Solution is the only permanent solution to the IMS problem. Proven protection and the industry’s best warranty.

On my 2000 C4 I was lucky enough to have nylon screws. They broke of course, but drilling and tapping was easy with a few tricks and observations: Using a soldiering iron to melt a hole through the center of the nylon screw makes drilling MUCH easier Used a 3/16" drill bit to remove the majority of the nylon then used a 6mm x 1.0 to clean the threads Plunge depth is 3/4" Use a "bottom" tap rather than a "tapered" tap so you clean threads quickly and without significant insertion.

OK. With a "little" poorly documented and explained help from this forum I managed to remove my right rear window regulator from my 2003 Carrera 4 Cabriolet. I am going to provide as many pointers here as I can to make this effort much easier on the next DIY mechanic. Thoroughly read this and other forum posts first. Convertible top needs to be down or in the service position. Remove rear seat cushion, rear interior panel and rear window trim piece as described in this post or others. Rear seat back should be in the up position. For removal of the regulator itself...The total of number bolts and or nuts to remove is 9 (13mm) (possibly 2 more(11mm) if your window is stuck in a down or partially up position). For total of 11. (2) 13mm nuts - Convertible top hydraulic piston; (1) from the rear piston mount point and (1) from the front piston mount point. (3) 13mm bolts - Seat belt pillar; (2) from the face of the pillar and (1) from the top of the pillar where the seat belt loop is mounted to the pillar. (remove the loop and seat belt pillar insert to allow regulator to eventually be removed. (1) 13mm bolt - center of the convertible top support bracket; this is required to allow the bracket to be pried away from the pillar (see 30mm block of wood) to create clearance for the regulator to be removed. With a pry bar of some kind you should set the block in place at this step. (3) 13mm nuts/bolts - window regulator mounting points (recommend removing these last); (1) nut at the bottom accessed by removing a rubber plug; (2) each at the top; (1) one rear and one front. For the rear remove a styro foam plug to access with socket. For the front; if the window is in the fully up position access through the aligned opening in the convertible top support bracket. (IMPORTANT) If the window is stuck down or partially up this front bolt/nut is not accessible. The window blocks access to it through aligned opening in the convertible top support bracket. Follow these steps... you will need to use a goose neck closed end 13mm (6 point) wrench; loosen and remove this bolt/nut. Place or stuff a rag just under this nut/bolt to prevent it from falling to the bottom of the body cavity should you lose a handle on it. remove rag, regulator should now be free to move upward but not out all of the way out BECAUSE the window (still attached to the regulator) CANNOT clear the seat belt pillar. move the window and regulator upward sufficiently enough so the window mounting nuts (the (2) additional 11mm noted above in item 1) are accessible with the 11mm socket; loosen to free the window from its regulator seat. (be careful not to scratch or break the window by applying to much force) Carefully remove the window from the regulator and you will now have sufficient clearance to remove the regulator from the car. Remove the regulator by pulling it up first (free the bottom mounting bolt from its bracket) and then towards the rear (got to get the motor to clear the body) then straight up. Take it slow. It will come out. Good luck. Its not really that difficult once you see what needs to be free.... and the window itself is out of the way.

I had the same problem with my 1999 Boxster. Here's what worked for me: Since it is an '00 or older, the release levers for the trunks are manual and there is a 'lock out' plate to prevent them from being release when the car is locked or the driver's door is closed. However, you can use a small flat headed screwdriver to slide between the two levers on the driver's door sill to manually unlock them. Here's how: With a flashlight and skinny 3-4" long flat screwdriver (like one of those electrician promo ones handed out at trade shows...) slide it down between the front and rear levers. Under the front trunk lever, you'll see a U shaped cut out that will have a white plate under it. The white plate, when the vehicle is locked or doors are closed, slides over the U shaped cutout to prevent the levers from being raised. Using the screwdriver, slide the white plate from the outside of the car towards the center. Once it's clear, just pull up on the lever to release either trunk. To that note, have you started the car yet to reinitialize your key w/ the car and the immobilizer? This may solve your problem as well (a dead battery will put the car into 'sleep mode' and since it was locked... the trunks remain as such). Otherwise, you'll likely have to remove the sill plate cover w/ the levers to see what's going on, or not, underneath for a permanent fix.

I did install the the the less expensive C4 fan (996 624 135 00) in the C4S with the following results. 1. Fan is the same diameter and size. 2. Motor diameter and flanges are the same size and will bolt into radiator shroud. 3. Offset of motor flanges are different, moves the fan 1/4 inch closer to radiator. 4. Changed style rubber grommets in shroud to gain 1/8 more clearance, but fan is still closer to the radiator than the stock fan. I'll let you know if the spacing gives me any problems.

Oh man, I hope you have a better result than I did with my 09 2S. Mine failed when I tried to pull away from a traffic light a year ago. Got the transmission emergency run on the dash. Car wouldn't move forward or backward. The gear indicator flashed back and forth between 1 and 2 when I had it in drive but the car wouldn't move. Couldn't clear it with Durametric while at the traffic light. Shift rod 3 failure. Towed the next day to a PIWIS which cleared some of the codes but could not clear the Shift rod 3 error. Tech tried first to run PIWIS calibration routine and then to reflash it - both to no avail. I was out of warranty and ended up paying for PCNA re-manufactured unit to be installed. Based on other failures he had seen, tech thought the issue was in the hydraulic section of the box but of course Porsche doesn't share what they found when the failed unit was opened up in Germany. What part of the country are you from?

P0455 Leakage in fuel tank system Diagnostic conditions D Vehicle speed = 0 km/h D Engine speed = 0 rpm D Correction factor, height > 0.73 D Coolant temperature upon starting the engine may be no more than 6.8 K above ambient temperature D Coolant temperature when engine starts > 3.8 °C D Period for which the engine needs to have been running before ignition is switched off > 20 minutes D Ignition has been switched off for at least 10 seconds. D Ambient temperature 4 … 35.3 °C D Active charcoal filter load < 3 for minor leak D Fuel tank fuel level 10 … 54 litres D Battery positive voltage 11.02 ... 14.5 V D No fuel tank filling D No faults detected for ambient pressure sensor, coolant temperature sensor, vehicle speed sensor D No output stage faults detected for DMTL pump motor, DMTL switch-over valves and tank vent D No fault detected for tank vent (flow) E The diagnostic conditions can also be established using the PIWIS Tester via the short test "tank leakage test". After the test has begun, the ignition must be switched off. F NOTE E In this context, please also observe the function description. Possible fault causes E Tank cap not closed correctly, leaking or missing E Purge air line leaking E Tank vent leaking E DMTL (Tank Leakage Diagnostics Module) leaking E Leakage in fuel tank system Page 140 of 398 07/20/2006 Function description Tank leakage test/DMTL – Tank Leakage Diagnostics Module F Note E The tank leakage test is performed only on USA vehicles. Construction of the tank leakage diagnostics module: The diagnostics module consists of an electric motor with a small air pump, switch-over valves and a reference nozzle. In addition, the modul is heated so as to prevent the forming of condensation and ice. Procedure of the function: E The pump is operated via an electric motor and conveys air through the reference leak. The power consumed during this process is determined. E The switch-over valve switches and the air current is now directed into the fuel tank. The power consumed during this process is also determined. After a waiting period dependent on the fuel tank fuel level, it must be at least as high as the power consumption was during the reference leak test if the tank system is leak-free. E The system is identified to by leaking if the power consumption is lower during the actual leakage test as it was during the reference leak test. E An evaluation of the power consumption levels when the pump is started and after the switch-over valve has switched serves to identify faults within the tank leakage diagnostic module (e.g. pump blocked, motor spins at idle speed, valve does not switch etc.). E The diagnosis of heating, motor and switch-over valve is performed via the output stage of the DME control module. P0456 Leakage in fuel tank system Diagnostic conditions D Vehicle speed = 0 km/h D Engine speed = 0 rpm D Correction factor, height > 0.73 D Coolant temperature upon starting the engine may be no more than 6.8 K above ambient temperature D Coolant temperature when engine starts > 3.8 °C D Period for which the engine needs to have been running before ignition is switched off > 20 minutes D Ignition has been switched off for at least 10 seconds. D Ambient temperature 4 … 35.3 °C D Active charcoal filter load < 3 for minor leak D Fuel tank fuel level 10 … 54 litres D Battery positive voltage 11.02 ... 14.5 V D No fuel tank filling D No faults detected for ambient pressure sensor, coolant temperature sensor, vehicle speed sensor D No output stage faults detected for DMTL pump motor, DMTL switch-over valves and tank vent D No fault detected for tank vent (flow) E The diagnostic conditions can also be established using the PIWIS Tester via the short test "tank leakage test". After the test has begun, the ignition must be switched off. F NOTE E In this context, please also observe the function description. Possible fault causes E Tank cap not closed correctly, leaking or missing E Purge air line leaking E Tank vent leaking E DMTL (Tank Leakage Diagnostics Module) leaking E Leakage in fuel tank system Function description Tank leakage test/DMTL – Tank Leakage Diagnostics Module F Note E The tank leakage test is performed only on USA vehicles. Construction of the tank leakage diagnostics module: The diagnostics module consists of an electric motor with a small air pump, switch-over valves and a reference nozzle. In addition, the modul is heated so as to prevent the forming of condensation and ice. Procedure of the function: E The pump is operated via an electric motor and conveys air through the reference leak. The power consumed during this process is determined. E The switch-over valve switches and the air current is now directed into the fuel tank. The power consumed during this process is also determined. After a waiting period dependent on the fuel tank fuel level, it must be at least as high as the power consumption was during the reference leak test if the tank system is leak-free. E The system is identified to by leaking if the power consumption is lower during the actual leakage test as it was during the reference leak test. E An evaluation of the power consumption levels when the pump is started and after the switch-over valve has switched serves to identify faults within the tank leakage diagnostic module (e.g. pump blocked, motor spins at idle speed, valve does not switch etc.). E The diagnosis of heating, motor and switch-over valve is performed via the output stage of the DME control module.

And with regards to the original post, which I hope is already fixed (just posting all this because Im new and have been doing evap for 15 years all makes but porsche lately) since this had a pump sense circuit in addition to large leak...Id generally start with pump diagnostics (does it turn on/pump when commanded?) and is it getting vacuum (the small line). If its getting vacuum (remove the small line at the pump when running) and it cant see it...pump is bad. If there is a problem with the pumps diaphragm leaking internally so it never moves despite vacuum...same issue, bad pump. If its pumping like a champ...but the vent is plugged solid as loren said, it will still see itself as bad. (most cars dont measure pressure for anything by the tank itself, they dont know how much PRESSURE anywhere else in the system, they see the CHANGE as indication that it worked. pressure change on/off switches are much cheaper to make than pressure measurement sensors that can record exact amounts). TYPICALLY, in most diagnostics post 2000, when a code uses the word CIRCUIT, you are chasing something electrical that isnt changing as expected or isnt showing proper voltage/ground as expected even when not active. unplugged stuff sets a CIRCUIT CODE.Shorted wires set CIRCUIT codes. leaking hoses set LEAK codes or PRESSURE codes. RANGE codes are the factorys way of saying IT COULD BE EITHER, SINCE A LEAK WILL SHOW SENSOR VOLTAGE THAT ISNT WHERE WE WANT IT, BUT ISNT SHORTED....but they like to hedge so they say RANGE. It means its likely electrical, but dont rule out a leak entirely and look at the electrical values if you have a tool to do so. So if you get a code that says PURGE CONTROL CIRCUIT, or LDP CIRCUIT, the 1st thing I check is the component is plugged in, and the wires going to it arent broken down or oil soaked. IF they look good, most solenoids are 2 wires, 1 a constant hot of 12v, the other a switched ground from the computer to turn it on or pulse it on rapidly to control flow. Evap solenoids almost always are pulsed...hence why they CLICK when they are working...they dont stay open or closed because that is uncontrolled flow. By pulsing at different amounts, they can open it 50% of the tyme or 70% or 20% and regulate flow. If the circuits function, and have power and ground (on or pulsed), then start checking for leaks as described above. It will be there. Also be aware, you can set circuit codes quite easily while testing. Unplug anything that is constantly checked (most components on newer cars) and check codes immediately...code is instant...even if you plugged it in 1 second later and its reconnected. Just clear the codes and if the code comes back instantly, its broken internally, bad wiring, or bad computer. circuits are constant...they are plugged in and work. Or they set codes.

Here's where it goes:

Thanks to Gelbster in the 986 forum for pointing me to this post by Dale_K in the Pelican forum. In fact, it was the magnetic switch which was not inserted into the space provided for it in the valve. It had fallen out when I pulled the old valve but I didn't notice. I did see it but couldn't find any information on it until I saw this post If this unit isn't working you'll have trouble filling. Also the magnetic switch. A new one comes with a new vent valve.

TSB 13/98 6119 Convertible Top Latch Cover Replacement -- dated 3-25-99

For the fingertip test: Turning on the A/C to cause the low speed relays to click on and off will only happen when the coolant temperature is below 206 degrees Farenheit. If the coolant temperature is above 206 degrees, but below 215, the low speed fans will turn on (and the low speed relay will click) without pressing the A/C button on. Regards, Maurice.

This is the support topic for the DIY Tutorial Fluctuating Idle. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.

Changed the master clutch cylinder and the noise is gone. Thanks for all of your comments. Carrera3.2, When I did the clutch/flywheel, I also replaced the: - IMS bearing and flange with LN Engineering upgrade - All 3 cam chain tensioners - RMS - AOS - Water pump - LN engineering Low Temp thermostat - Slave cylinder - Clutch master cylinder - Sparkplugs and all 6 coil packs - Cardan Shaft (the rubber guibo on my original shaft was cracked) - Coolant reservoir tank and cap - Changed Trans and front diff fluid - Changed oil and filter Hope this helps. If I can think of anything else I did, I'll add to the list. My car drives amazingly well now. Britt

The switch in my fan mod is not to correct a non functioning fan system or relay. Fixing the relay fault is quite simple and should be done with new relays when necessary. The fan mod is to turn on the HIGH speed fans at will and at any temperature. Or you can eliminate the switch altogether and have the high speed fans come on below a certain engine speed, vehicle speed, etc.

They "pop" off, you can use two flat screwdrivers, a door trim clip disposer fork, or similar tool.

Wow, this is one from the past. Use some caution when dealing with a stripped drain plug as they are made of some pretty soft metal. I was just finishing up an oil change and when I attempted to torque the bolt its head split. This happened before I was near the torque specs. With half the bolt head broken off it makes getting the remainder off a little tricky. :)

I Just replaced one and resoldered the connection. The connection is also mechanically crimped and then soldered. The metal clip is soft and can be uncrimped with a small screw driver and heat from the soldering iron. Be careful not to deform the clip to much, you will have to recrimp and resolder. It was an easy job. Don't for get to "tin" the tip of the soldering iron first. (heat the tip up, melt some solder on and wipe off with a wet sponge). I bough an extra from from Sunset and keep it for the eventual failure of the reight side. This will also be a good time to clean your radiators as well. Good luck J. Greer

I'm just toooooo slow. Thanks Loren.

Hi, yes Mobil 1 5w-50 is the only SAE50 viscosity lubricant Approved by Porsche. It is an excellent lubricant with a long history. It ia available in most Countries except the USA Mixing most Mobil 1 products to achieve a "supplementary" viscosity can be done without the risk of loosing the benefits of the overall base fluid/additive package There are two exceptions to this however. M1 0w-40 and M1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40 (non Approved) should not be mixed with other Mobil 1 lubricants if you wish to retain their unique and quite sophisticated formulation I use the "parent" of M1 TDT 5w-40 - it is a Commercial lubricant called Delvac 1 5w-40 Regards Doug