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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. This one says its good for 125 amps and I can pick it up tomorrow in store: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200611634_200611634 Google isnt turning up much for testing the alternator with a load tester (it is all multimeter)...how do you do it? Instructions should come with the unit, but this is the basics: http://www.delcoremy.com/MediaLibraries/DelcoRemy/DelcoRemy/Literature/Troubleshooting/Delco-Remy-Charging-Troubleshooting-Guide-8-13.pdf
  2. With my battery pushing 3 years and the battery from Advance Auto being such a good deal I just went and got it. If the air suspension works properly again after install thats probably a good sign. I did the "turn everything on" alternator load test suggested in ekstroemtjs old thread. Idling with headlights, rear defrost and A/C on, Im at 13.6v. My multimeter broke so I dont have the greatest capabilities at the moment. The fact that the live data read 9.5v the first time I tested a startup would at least suggest the battery isnt great right? If the new battery doesnt make an immediate difference (suspension) Ill get a meter and do some better testing. Could be, but I would not be swapping out anything with out testing first. The correct way to test a battery and alternator is with a load testing device, which puts extreme loading on each while also monitoring how each responds. The devices themselves are not particularly expensive, and many auto parts stores now have them available for customers to use for free. This is the one we use in the shop, very quick and accurate testing, and it cost about $75:
  3. I dont know how accurate the DME live data feed voltage is, but I had 12v at rest, 9.5V when starting the car, and 13.6-13.9 running. Voltage is slightly low, normal range is 13.5-14.5V. I would load test both the battery and alternator.
  4. I would note the codes, and clear them, then test the car again. If the same codes come back I'd start with the throttle position sensor system, which seems to be the source of many of the codes, but I would load test the battery and check the alternator voltage as well.
  5. To my knowledge, every car came with a dash equipped for cruise, regardless of if the car had the option or not. The Porsche parts list does not list a "non cruise" cluster, so yours must have it, and according to the owners manual for your car, it should be in the speedometer section, not the warning lights section (page 84 of the attached: http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/Owners_Manual_Boxster_PCNA.pdf). Most likely, your car simply does not have the bulb installed. Thanks for your reply. In the Owner's Manual that came with my car it says the Boxster (2.5L engine) has the warning light on the speedometer. My car is the Boxster S (3.2L) and the manual indicates the Cruise Control Indicator Light is on the 'warning lights section'. You are partially correct, this is the "official" image of the dash that is in your car: There are two cruise indicators possible, 3A and 3B. 3A is for the base car (which is a 2.7L, not a 2.5L which was discontinued a couple years earlier), 3B is for the 3.2L S car. In any case, again, the parts listing does not show anything about "with cruise" or "without cruise" part number option; so I would still look for either a missing or non functional blub. Awesome photo. My car is 3B. Is there a possibility that the instrument cluster/warning lights & DME didn't get activated for cruise control by my mechanic? Not likely, the cruise activation is a single step process, so it should be active if the cruise is working.
  6. Do a search on removing and drying the internals of the box under the seat, some can be recovered this way. If that does not work, the car will need to be flat bedded to the shop.
  7. Not really. The new thermostat may be a bit hotter than the old one, unless you used the LN low temp unit. I would also hook the car up to a Porsche diagnostic tool and check the coolant temp with that, the dash gauges in these cars are not known for their accuracy.
  8. To my knowledge, every car came with a dash equipped for cruise, regardless of if the car had the option or not. The Porsche parts list does not list a "non cruise" cluster, so yours must have it, and according to the owners manual for your car, it should be in the speedometer section, not the warning lights section (page 84 of the attached: http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/Owners_Manual_Boxster_PCNA.pdf). Most likely, your car simply does not have the bulb installed. Thanks for your reply. In the Owner's Manual that came with my car it says the Boxster (2.5L engine) has the warning light on the speedometer. My car is the Boxster S (3.2L) and the manual indicates the Cruise Control Indicator Light is on the 'warning lights section'. You are partially correct, this is the "official" image of the dash that is in your car: There are two cruise indicators possible, 3A and 3B. 3A is for the base car (which is a 2.7L, not a 2.5L which was discontinued a couple years earlier), 3B is for the 3.2L S car. In any case, again, the parts listing does not show anything about "with cruise" or "without cruise" part number option; so I would still look for either a missing or non functional blub.
  9. Such information is the copyrighted intellectual property of Porsche and cannot be published on a forum without their permission.
  10. To my knowledge, every car came with a dash equipped for cruise, regardless of if the car had the option or not. The Porsche parts list does not list a "non cruise" cluster, so yours must have it, and according to the owners manual for your car, it should be in the speedometer section, not the warning lights section (page 84 of the attached: http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/Owners_Manual_Boxster_PCNA.pdf). Most likely, your car simply does not have the bulb installed.
  11. Hind sight is always 20/20. When these mounts go bad, the rubber isolator typically tears, allowing the mount to go metal to metal, which is what makes the noise.
  12. Yup, front motor mount. You symptoms are the common ones when this starts to fail. Not a bad DIY swap as well.
  13. So you are looking for the standard values you would expect from a properly running vehicle. In their most condensed form, you would find them in the specifications section of the OBD II diagnostics manual for the specific vehicle, which is difficult to find as Porsche has stopped printing them several years ago. A second source would be in the Bentley manual for the 996.
  14. For checking for leaks, would putting the Motiv Pressure Bleeder on it, and taking it to 20PSI and leaving it on over night work to check for leaks? It might, but it may also mislead you somewhat as the braking system operates at hundreds of PSIG, which the Motive system cannot duplicate.
  15. It sounds like you have an alarm system malfunction. Get the car scanned with a Porsche diagnostics tool like the factory PIWIS or Durametric, specifically looking at the alarm system, there should be stored faults for the last ten beeps you have heard that should point towards the fault.
  16. I would not let the trans fluid go that long. Because you can only do a partial drain on these transmissions (the converter retains a large amount of fluid that will not come out in a gravity drain), we adopted a 5 years/50K miles maximum service interval for these cars, with an even shorter interval for a car that is tracked. Fluid is cheap, transmissions are not; and we have seen too many Tips acting up that had literally black as ink fluid in them which smelled burnt long before the factory recommended service intervals that responded positively to being serviced. On occasion, we have had to drain, fill, run, drain again, etc. multiple times to get them back to normal operations.
  17. First of all, pressure bleeding does not cause problems, we use it all the time in the shop without issue. As you are uncertain of the braking system, I would replace the bad bleeders and lines, then try bleeding it with the ABS/PSM system activated, just to be sure there is no air in the system control network.
  18. +1. I run a business using the Durametric system as well, and have always found it to be an excellent tool. And for the previous poster, don't get your hopes up, Porsche does not make the PIWIS system for Apple hardware either :oops:
  19. The holder for the sensor is a rubber grommet that slips inbetween the manifold runners the sensor slips into the center. Nothing exotic, but it is essential. Look under the intake runners for both the sensor and the grommet, they are both very easy to knock loose.
  20. In the engine compartment, mounted on the intake manifold, is the temperature sensor for the fan: It is possible that this sensor has either fallen off its mount (common) and is laying on something hot, or is going bad. I'd start there.
  21. Looks like you need a security or "tamper proof" torxs bit which has a recess in the center to go around the pin:
  22. Normally, fuel delivery problems do not manifest themselves in this manner, but if you think you have a filter issue you can either run fuel pressure and delivery volume tests, or simply replace the filter itself. Usually, this is an intake air leak issue. Intake air leak issue in between the AFM and throttle body? Or broader like Intake manifold leak? I've once sprayed carb cleaner around the engine when it was idling to see for any change, nothing... It could be anywhere in the intake system; a loose connection, crack in a plastic vacuum line, an injector O-ring, vacuum accumulator, etc. You need to do a complete search as these things are often very hard to spot.
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