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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Does your pump look like this:
  2. JFP in PA
    Depends, what are you trying to do?
  3. JFP in PA
    Based upon customer experience, a TPMS will give you some alert time if the tire loses air slowly; but if the tire simply blows out catastrophically and loses all the air suddenly, the TPMS would not give you a chance to pull over from highway speeds before the tire was toast.
  4. JFP in PA
    Not to take anything away from your OBD II scan tool, but there are systems on these cars that a "global" OBD II scanner simply cannot access or read. If your lady Porsche specialist has the diagnostic tool, I would let her have a look at it and the sensor she is questioning. Without reliable diagnostics data, we are simply guessing and throwing out ideas.
  5. JFP in PA
    That is what I was thinking. We always encourage people to become familiar with their diagnostics tools, but not to go trying things unless the know exactly what they are getting involved with, because things like this can be the result. Some of the clones also have the ability to program, but not the programing files themselves, so starting the process kind of leaves you in the lurch.
  6. JFP in PA
    Not a problem. Sometimes the oddest sound suggestions are based in hard earned experience. Get the car scanned, we need a bit more information before we can offer more sound suggestions.
  7. JFP in PA
    Slow down a bit. While seeming odd at first blush, the questions asked are valid as either one of the suggested things to check could cause the circumstances you are encountering due to low level vacuum leaks, which are known to cause surging problems; particularly as you have just had an oil change . I would also agree with Loren, get the car scanned with a Porsche specific diagnostic tool (PIWIS or Durametric) for both active and pending codes. I would also look closely at both the fuel trim values and readings from the MAF at the same time.
  8. JFP in PA
    Depends upon how you define "improved technology". Porsche is very slow to change and/or adapt on something like this, preferring to stay with a proven technology they know well and that their customers accept. A lot of dealers stock ceramic type pads (as well high bite race pads) for their customers, but they are not Porsche branded.
  9. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: More than likely, the reason you cannot pull any fluid out of the system is that it is already too low. Try filling the system, cycling the top a few times, then drain and refill.
  10. JFP in PA
    They were in the block after I removed the cylinder head (sorry for the confusion!) My next step is to look more closely at the IMS. Shards of water pump impeller. Well that's very interesting! Must be from a previous water pump, since mine has metal impellers! Get rid of that pump, you should not be using a metal impeller pump in one of these engines. I would also say that whomever installed that pump did not know what they were doing as absolutely no sealant is needed. I would also agree with Duncan, you may have a slipped gear on the IMS shaft, which would stop the cams from turning.
  11. JFP in PA
    You can see the K lead on the lower right of the diagram, circuit is DR/BK colors. I believe that it is also pin 88 at the DME.
  12. JFP in PA
    Oh boy. Question #1: Is this a legitimate PIWIS II or an aftermarket clone?
  13. JFP in PA
    Yes, it should look like this: You are going to need a wiring diagram to start tracing the K line circuit.
  14. JFP in PA
    Shards of water pump impeller.
  15. JFP in PA
    It is referring to the central locking/alarm module, which is under the driver's seat. One thing that caught my eye was fault 49, "no communications with PST 2", which says one of your main communications links (K-line) is shorted to ground. I would track that down first, as it could be the source of everything else.
  16. JFP in PA
    Basically, and signs of problems (cracking, discoloration, etc.) and the coil should be tossed. Replacements are not that expensive, and on some models, just getting at them is a chore. So if it looks at all questionable, it goes.
  17. JFP in PA
    Please do not double post, it is against forum rules. Your duplicate post has been removed. Your car has a hydraulically actuated clutch, there are no adjustments. If the system has been correctly bled, and you still have problems getting the car into gear, you most likely have a clutch failure and need to pull the car apart to see what needs to be replaced.
  18. JFP in PA
    P1538 and 1539 are codes for VarioCam actuator codes indicating no active position. Causes: – Open circuit, triggering – Open circuit, B+ supply – Actuator defective.
  19. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: To my knowledge, the Durametric Pro system will not address this issue, you need the PIWIS.
  20. JFP in PA
    I would also go under the car and read the engine number, looking for the letters "AT" in the engine number sequence to be sure if it is the original lump or a later version.
  21. JFP in PA
    Yes.
  22. JFP in PA
    I'm trying to visualize where we looking, it that looking up at the bottom of the heater box?
  23. JFP in PA
    My ambient was about 65 deg F for yesterday's run. Here's this morning's chart (60 deg F ambient; same route; but one longer episode of stop-n-go traffic) with car speed (to suggest that there is sufficient radiator air flow). I'm not convinced the tstat is the low temp variety or not defective. Of course, i'm trying to avoid cracking open the coolant system again to replace it - hence my dilemma. But I will because I want the added engine protection of the lower tstat set point. Is there a "poor man's" way to check the density of my coolant mix? Hydrometer's are not that expensive but was wondering it there's way to compare perfectly mixed brand new 50/50 with a sample from the car... I would say yes, for the simple reason that the OEM stat does not start to open until 186F and is not fully open until around 205F; your system is trying to stay below that. A 50/50 mix of distilled water and coolant should have a specific gravity around 1.07, and a freezing point below -35F. You could check the SG using a battery hydrometer, just be sure to clean it out thoroughly before using it on a battery again. You could also check the freeze point using a readily available coolant tester:
  24. JFP in PA
    It looks slightly warm, but not by a lot. I would expect a car with the 160 stat and an otherwise clean cooling system to run 175-185F on a stead state run (copious air flow over the radiators) in 68F ambient temperatures (you also did not mention your ambient during your test). The same car with the factory stat would run 205-215F under similar conditions.
  25. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Unless you have gotten air into the ABS/PSM control network, a scan tool is not needed to do a brake system flush.
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