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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: The "loose plug" in your pictures is for the rare factory cell phone, not the rear speakers. And as much as I hate to say it, whoever did that install is a butcher. You do not need to cut wires to do this, especially in the way that they did it so it cannot easily be reconnected. They are also responsible for why the components do not work, because they did not know what they were cutting.
  2. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Unless mistaken, I think you need to have the system recoded (PIWIS) when you change this unit out. Thanks for the Welcome and the response, are you saying I may need a recode to have the new CDC4 unit accepted or that if I eliminate the CDC4 and do a loopback that I may need a recode ? It is my understanding of the PCM of your vintage that when components are replaced, like the CDC 4, the system has to be recoded to accept it.
  3. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Unless mistaken, I think you need to have the system recoded (PIWIS) when you change this unit out.
  4. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: First of all, there is no such thing as a stupid question. What you have done is introduce air into the ABS/PSM control network, which requires the use of a Porsche specific scan tool (PST II, PIWIS, Durametric) to electronically activate theses systems in a special mode while bleeding the system to get all of the air out. This is the only known way to accomplish this. Once properly re-bled, the system will be fine.
  5. About 18 months ago or so. A lot of installers are not pushing it because they would need to acquire the Faultless installation tool to do the Pro, which costs around $750 for the tools. There is really nothing wrong with the bearing you have, it is just that the Pro is believed to be even stronger.
  6. Purely a cost & time horizon scenario, the Solution, while permanent, costs nearly $1K more for parts compared to either the old style single row or the newer Pro, and requires a bit more labor to install; and some people are simply not seeing themselves owning the car long enough to benefit.
  7. The numbers bandied around fortunately have grown somewhat with experience; current numbers are around 50K miles for the original single row bearing: http://imsretrofit.com/service-intervals/; while the newer "Pro" version for the single row engines is at 75K.
  8. Yes, there should be some play, and yours does not look all that unusual.
  9. Check with your local auto body repair supply shop, or online, 3M has a line of excellent weather strip type adhesives which will work perfectly for this.
  10. Have tried to have a dealer reset the service alert? I'm wondering if the problem is with your DME rather than the Durametric system, and if the dealer has problems, that would confirm it.
  11. Some of the early cars had a fuel pressure regulator (red arrow on the left) on the fuel rail, which can be the source of the problem, or you could have one injector that is leaking down.
  12. I am also not sure what is going on here. We use the Durametric for service resets just about every day and it works. Are you sure the system is not a clone and that it is communicating with the car?
  13. Couple of them; if you have a battery maintainer, plug it in to the cig lighter and wait an hour or so until the battery builds up some juice, the trunk will then open. On the driver's kick panel there is a fuse panel with an indicated power lug; attach another battery there and the trunk will open (for more on this, check your owner's manual).
  14. It could be the fuel system bleeding down pressure while it is sitting for longer periods. Try hooking up a fuel pressure test gauge to the fuel rail and see if the pressure is bleeding off while it sits.
  15. Using this tool: Larger problem is how you bend the electrodes to open or close the gap on four electrode plugs............
  16. I'm not sure why you are asking this question, but the changes in the Tip were mostly problem fixes and/or updated parts. I've driven several of all of the variants and they really don't seem all that different. They are also not easily interchangeable for various reasons.
  17. Welcome to RennTech :welcome:
  18. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Try this link: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/45-replacing-the-gasfuel-door-actuator/
  19. The fob section of the key can be replaced without having to cut a new key shaft, you just move it to the new fob. The fob, however, will require coding the car if the "pill" cannot be move to the new fob or does not work. If coding is required, you need a PIWIS unit.
  20. I'm afraid I cannot help you with that one, but I would suggest contacting the local Porsche Club chapter, which I believe is the Music City chapter: http://www.musikstadtpca.org/ They should be able to provide you with some suggestions based upon local user's experiences.
  21. Even when the engine is otherwise immaculate clean inside, the rather tiny oil passages in this system can become blocked by small bits of loose plastic from sealant squeeze out or other plastic bits in the engine. These are not easy to remove without dropping the engine and taking at least some of it apart.
  22. If the car has had a recent battery change, you may still need to check to see how the coding looks, we have seen several 987 lose the seat heater coding when the battery was changed. Both the Durametric (Pro) and Porsche's factory tool can reset them back to "on" if they switched off.
  23. OK, here is the entire fuse system listing for your car: I would take a look at fuse holder E, fuses 1 & 2, which are 30Amp units for the power seat controls. If no fuses are out, I would again suggest having the car scanned to make sure they are actually activated.
  24. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Have they ever worked? I have seen multiple cars that needed to have the system coded before they actually functioned.
  25. By far, most of the Tip's fluid is in the torque converter, which you cannot drain by draining the pan. At most, you will get out 4-5 L from the pan. This is one of several reasons we recommend changing the fluid in the Tip more frequently. I also removed your double posting on this topic; please do not double post, it is against forum rules.
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