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I have an 03 Boxster with 95k on the clock. When you first start driving the car, everything is tight and quiet. After about 25 - 30 miles, the front start to knock lightly and rumble. Most noticeable between 0 and 30mph in queuing traffic. You can feel the knocks on the steering wheel and brake pedal. The further you go the worse it gets. The sound is like a bolt being jarred in a plastic bottle. Up to now it has had new bake disks and pads. Track rod ends and wishbones replaced and something That looks like coffin struts changed. Wheels and tyres have been checked. When the knocking started, the brake warning light came on. The front sensors have been changed so the warning lights don't come on when the knocking starts. I am not mechanically minded but In my mind its a brake problem as the issue only shows up after driving for about 30 miles and things are starting to warm up. The garage cannot identify the issue and have run out of ideas. Can anyone suggest or identify the problem as I have been replacing bits without success

Recommendations for good quality after market oil filter for 1997 boxster? I have ready access to: Fram, Mann, Purelator, Do I need to get any additional parts for the DIY oil change? (asside from the oil) e.g. orings, brass washers, etc... Thanks John

Hello everyone, As some of you may already know, we talked about designing a waterproof case for the Alarm Immobilizer Unit in Boxsters and 996s. These units get water damaged easily if the convertible top is left open during rain, or just by the accumulation of water by the car's water drains, because Porsche installed them right on the floor of the car. The costs entailed to repair this problem can reach $1,000's easily, that's why it would be more cost effectuve to protect the CLU to begin with. Therefore, after many months of revisions and working with vendors to complete this enclosure, we began shipping waterproof cases last week to the members that where on our waiting list. Below are a few screenshots of the installation video final Immobilizer Waterproof case. If you are curious about how it is mounted here is the installation video: and PDF instructions: http://goo.gl/A9NQou We're excited about this project and what it could mean to the Porsche community. Please share if you know someone that could benefit from this.

1999 Porsche Boxster 986 shows check engine light (CEL). Code read at autozone as P0112 Error Code (Intake Air Temperature Circuit Low Input). According to <http://repairpal.com/obd-ii-code-p0112>, the error code causes could be Defective Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IAT) Dirty air filter Defective Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) Faulty or corroded Intake Air Temperature wiring or connection MAF: Bosch 996 606 123 00​ (serial number?:0 260 217 007) DME: Bosch 996.618.601.04 (serial number?:0 261 204 605). Lots of other numbers on DME. Can post image if required. After doing some research, I did some basic digital multi-meter tests between the MAF, IAT, and DME (MAF/IAT are combined into one unit in the '99 Boxster). NOTE: Engine Control Unit (ECU) seems synonymous or very related to DME or Digital Motor Electronics in the Porsche Boxster, Boxster S Service Manual: 1997-2004 by Bently Publishers {ISBN-10: 083761645X -- ISBN-13: 978-0837616452} I detached the MAF cable from the MAF, and I uninstalled the Engine Control Unit (ECU) from the trunk wall and detached the ECU cable from the ECU. I then measured the resistance between the following terminals. These results were: MAF 1 to DME 15: 0-0.5 Ohms MAF 2 to DME 54: 0-0.5 Ohms MAF 3 to DME 45: 0-0.5 Ohms MAF 4 to DME 47: 0-0.5 Ohms MAF 5 to DME 17: 0-0.5 Ohms Based on the pinout of the MAF to DME, and according to Porsche Boxster, Boxster S Service Manual: 1997-2004 by Bently Publishers, I have a DME version 5.2.2. I'll have to update what the service manual descriptions of these terminals are tonight when I am near the book again. Then, with the MAF re-installed and the DME re-installed and all cables reconnected, I measured the following values: Engine @ idle, MAF 4 to MAF 3 is 5v. Engine @ idle, MAF 1 to MAF 3 is 3volts Engine @ idle, MAF 2 to MAF 3 is 13.6volts. Engine @ idle, MAF 3 to car ground is shorted. Engine @ idle, MAF 3 to MAF 5 is 1.38V. Engine @ 3000 RPM, MAF 3 to MAF 5 is 2volts. From these measurements, it appears as though the MAF is running properly. Could someone confirm? Other tests/info: I cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner, which had no effect. I drove the car with the MAF cable removed from the MAF and the car drove exactly the same as with the MAF cable connected. I bought the car with the P0112 error code showing, so I don't know what the car drove like without it. That said, the car does not have difficulty idling and is definitely faster than my 2008 Corolla LE. I can't say if it is as responsive or as quick as it should be, however. To try to find vacuum leaks, I sprayed carburetor cleaner on literally everything I could see in the engine with the top engine cover removed. the engine speed did not change from idle at any point during the carburetor cleaner test did. With the engine off, the MAF removed, and the air temp around 60-70°F, I measured the MAF terminals below. MAF 1 to MAF 3 is 1.7 kOhm. Maf 2 to everything is either open loop or megaohms. Then, with engine still off and the MAF removed, I breathed on the thermistor and read the following values: MAF 1 to MAF 3 is 1.4kOhm Maf 2 to everything is either open loop or megaohms. Based on a DME 7.8 manual, the IAT is supposed to read 2.3-2.7kOhms at ~20°C. Which would put the resistance of my IAT (1.4-1.7kOhms) a little low. Does anyone have a DME 5.2.2 manual to confirm what the resistance of IAT (pin 1 to 3) should be? If this resistance is OK, then does anyone have ideas as to what else the problem could be? It seems like my current options are: Replace MAF (~$250 <http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=996-606-123-00-M14&catalog_description=>) Vacuum system smoke test Re-flash DME (~$400) Replace DME(~$1000 min) ​I've read bad things about using after-market MAF's, so I will only be replacing w/ official MAF if that is the correct path to take.

2012 Base boxster with Bose sound. Had the passenger side drain clog, with resultant water under the passenger side seat. Part of the collateral damage is now no sound from any source, i.e Radio, Aux, CD or Phone. The radio works as far as I can tell. I understand that the amp in this MY is located under the passenger seat. When I moved the seat forward to squeegee out the water, I noticed what appeared to be a slight burn mark on the carpet near the rear right hand seat rail. So, is this possibly a fuse on the stock Bose amp? If so, what type? I imagine I will have to pull the seat to get to it, but I also think there is an airbag cable\sensor there, so don't want to turn that idiot light on. If I have to go the route of replacing the amp, what specs hsould I be looking for, as far as wiring, etc? All advice welcome. Thanks in advance!

So I go to put the passenger window down the other day and it emits a screeching sound, both going up and down. Sounds like 'nails on a chalk board'... I haven't had the time to tear the door apart to check it out, but, am wondering if there are any 'well known' problems with the regulator or window mechanism? Would appreciate any insight... Thanks john

Hey everyone, it's been a while since I've been on here. I'd like to thank everyone for their help thus far with my current Boxster fixes and issues. I am now looking at (upgrading?) to a '70 911t. I love the older styles and have wanted to get my hands on one. The one I am looking at is matching numbers, has been rebuilt, just needs a paint job. Let me know what you all think, what to be aware of/scared of, any input is great! Thanks so much

I'm getting ready to put my engine back in after rebuilding it and I was wondering if I am going to need to have a rear wheel alignment done afterward. You have to take off so many brackets, braces, and supports that I'm feel like the whole procedure would throw the alignment out of whack. My problem is that my nearest Porsche shop is 50 miles away and I wouldn't want to have to drive it there with the alignment out badly. Any thoughts or advice?? Tom

hello just bought a 2002 boxster 73k miles top chatters or drags while going up or down... can only operate if I keep pushing the switch and releasing it... it opens and or closes in spurts.. I have checked fuses changed top relays (twice) changed motor (three times) parking brake light is on so switch seems to be working- have greased or oiled all tracks and hinges I have not changed cables or transmissions any ideas on what to try would be greatly appreciated (ps also changed micro switch at mirror) thank you

How can I identify if my 1998 Boxster head lights are LHD or RHD? The car originally is a LHD car imported to the UK. I do not know if the headlamps were changed or adjusted to work in the UK. I am shipping the car to France and before I have it MOT'd in France I need to check the headlamps so that I can avoid a failiure. Anybody know if their is a part no. or some way to idetify? You would not believe what a pain it is to sort things out in France!!!

hey guys, this is my first post in hopes of coming to a conclusion, i currently have a 1998 porsche boxster with tiptronic transmission, the following problems are as follows. 1.when in parking the car doesnt stop 2.when in automatic drive car doesnt go to 3rd gear it jumps from 2nd to safe mode with a big kick 3.when left on first gear in manual mode car exhaust sound gets louder, and when letting of the gas does big kick to safe mode 4.when the car is turned on and switched to manual the tiptronic controls only lets me move up to 2nd gear. i was thinking it was the transmission ecu but it wasnt, i have tried 2 other ecu's one with the exact serial codes as the original (besides actual ecu serial) and still same problem Might it just be the transmission itself? if so where can i buy rebuild parts? and guide on how to. I really need to get this figured out any advice would be helpful, thank-you for your time :)

need help, it is a 98 Boxster 2.5 as you see in the picture the red lined tube is the one not in diagram, the blue and green circles i dont know where they go, neither the purple, now the yellow line leads to the back and that too i dont know where it goes, thank-you :)

Hey all, New the forum so hello there! Rebuilding a Carrera two and pulling some mangled-a$$ control arms off the front. They are stamped with "996.341.341.05" When I google this number all I get is european eBay listings and some random russian website. Anybody have any idea what this is? Cheap chinese knockoff control arms? I have a 99634105316 to replace it which is clearly a slightly different casting but appears dimensionally similar. I would share a photo but I am in the shop (read- my garage) right now. Cheers! Gabe J

hi all trying again to post this so sorry if it shows up few times just got a 2.5 2000 87k after 25 yrs with mercs ive allways used slik 50 every few oil changes as it helps on cold start ups as well as other things any one have any thoughts about useing in my boxster im not talking thickners im talking about teflon based products cheers all dave

Dear Forum Users, firstly thank you in advance for any contributions, they are much appreciated. The Background; I'm coming from a low knowledge-base, though am fairly good at following instructions, I don't have enough experience to diagnose problems. I have a '99 Boxster, owned for nearly 2 years. Unitl recently this was my primary car in everyday use and worked pretty much perfectly (though I'm sure it could do with a little TLC). I recently moved to a new job with company car provided, meaning the Boxster is used much less. I've endevoured to drive it every couple of days to keep things running smoothly, however, very stupidly, due to bad weather I left it completely inactive for a about three weeks. The Problem; I came to start the car after three or so weeks and got the 'clicking' sound at the point of ignition. I presumed this meant the battery was dying. I purchased some jump leads and returned the car a couple of days later, now the battery was completely dead, couldn't even open the bonet/hood. I searched the forums and found the emergency release cable. I excitedly hooked up the jump leads to my company car and Boxster. Immediately all the electronics, including fan, worked perfectly. I turned the key in anticipation only to be met with the 'clicking' sound and no ignition. I waited a few seconds and tried again, same thing. I tried again holding the key in the final position, only to get a repeated clicking. At one point the car did sound like it was about to fire, it almost jerked a little, but then went back to clicking so I stopped. The clicking sound was definitely coming from the engine. Your help is much, much appreciated, I can't wait to hear the sound of the engine firing again!

Hey guys, I think it's time to replace my clutch. Its been slipping pretty bad and I'm doing my best to drive it very gently or not at all. Its a 986 2.5L manual transmission. I've read up on pelican the whole DIY and parts list. I just wanted to see what clutch kit you all would suggest? Also, should I plan on replacing my flywheel? Any suggestions or words of advice would be VERY much appreciated. First time doing a clutch replacement 8)

I am planning on changing my bumpers on a Porsche boxster 987 first generation. would it be possible to install second generation bumpers. are the bolts in the same position are the lines for tail lights and headlights the same???.

My 1998 Boxster will not sttart. New Battery.The strarter is okay. The car would turn on.However it will not start. It does not even crank..My normal non Porsche mechanic has been piulling his hear out trying to figure things out. Any suggestions??

The convertible top on my Boxster has a verticle tear close to the seam. I'd like to replace it with a Porsche part, but my local dealer quoted $3200 just for the part (labor not included). That seems outrageous, since the OEM part seems to be available on-line for less than $1000. I don't want to attempt the labor myself. Any advice is appreciated.

Hi, I hope you can help. I have a 2004 (986) standard 2.7L Boxster. The last couple of days There is a loud noise when the air conditioning is running. Seems way more loud than usual - especially at idle (probably because of less engine/road noise). I think the issue is that the fan behind the front bumber is coming on when I turn the air con on. The fan seems to be on anytime the a/c is on. Is this normal. It just seems very loud and I dont think it was there a few days ago. I looked at the radiator through the vents in the bumper and there seems to be a slight layer of dust on the radiator - though not too much. Could this be the issue? The problem can be heard even when I strat the car from cold. I have read that there are two fan speeds. When the A/C is turned on - what speed should they run at - how can I tell? How do I clean the dust from the radiator (preferably without having to remove the bumper)? Thanks TS

My convertible top stopped working on my 2004 Boxster S. After researching the possible causes I discovered that the driver-side pushrod attached to the V-lever was bent and the plastic tip broken. The passenger side pushrod appeared intact. I replaced both sides with new pushrods and tips and made sure that the length of both were exact and the same as the pushrod on the passengers side. All seemed well and the mechanism attempted to raise and lower the top but the leading edge of the top would catch on the back of the driver-side rollbar during the raise operation. I can manually free the top so that it continues to raise but the operation ends and the motor stops when the leading edge of the top is about two inches from the windscreen latch point. Now what?

Please help, After thoroughly searching for someone who has had this issue, I am still lost. Vehicle is a 2000 Boxster 2.7, 5 speed manual. Vehicle has factory Becker radio with tape deck. CDR 220 I believe. I have replaced the ignition switch as recommended for similar problems, but there were no changes First, the vehicle will sometimes not crank when turned to the starter position. It takes multiple turns and sometimes even locking and unlocking the vehicle before it will start (acts like clutch is not depressed when trying to start). It seems to be happening more often and I am afraid it may not work at all in the near future. It is not the battery. Electrical connections to battery are good. I thought possibly the clutch switch but it does not seem to have any effect on it from what I can tell. All fuses look good. Radio fuse in footwell fuse box was blown but I replaced it. Secondly, the Radio does not turn off or on when key is turn to ON position. This happens 100% of the time. The radio can be turned on with the On button in the same way that it can be with no key in the switch. It has to be manually turned off or else it will play continuously. Even if the vehicle is locked. The red LED flashes when the unit is off and the vehicle is running. More pertinent information, All of this started happening after I removed the factory head unit temporarily. I have read different things online as what to do with the brown/blue wire that senses the radio in the dash. Some people say ground it out, others say to tape it off (no ground?). I cannot tell if it makes it act differently if it is grounded, but I may not be getting a good ground (short wire in dash)... Wire cannot be reconnected as originally was. Horn honks once after locking (I figure this is because of the radio security wire) and dash led blinks twice in rapid succession continuously. What should I do with this wire? Why would this affect the ON and OFF of the radio when the ignition switch is turned? Is this linked to the starting issue? I think it may have done the starting problems a couple times before removing the head unit, but I am not positive. It has definitely gotten substantially worse since about the exact same time though. I have already replaced the ignition switch. Also, can I disable the clutch switch entirely or will that not allow the cruise control system to function? Please help!!! Thank you all. The boxster community is amazing!

hi any member know where i can download a workshop manual for my 2.5 2000 boxster cheers all dave [not owners man]

My Water Pump was leaking coolant on my 1998 Boxster, so I decided to replace the water pump gasket. After removing all the components described in Wayne's Technical Article of Water Pump and Thermostat Replacement, I came across one unforgiving bolt on the Water Pump that would not budge. The 10mm flexhead would not grip the very top bolt. I noticed that the pulley for the water pump was almost touching the bolt. On further inspection I found that the pulley had actually shirred the bolt head and and rubbed off 3 of the points of the bolt head making it impossible to take off with the required 10mm flexhead. So, I tried the following methods: 1. Liquid Wrench spray with a vise a needle nose vice grip. Result: Won't stay on and keeps slipping because of the angle. 2. Attaching another nut to the sheared bolt head with JB Weld, and trying to unscrew it. Result: JB Weld is not holding the nut. Other Factors: If you were looking directly at the water pump and had you head even with the pulley, you would see the pulley wheel was covering part of the bolt head, meaning you couldn't get a socket around it. You have to come from the top because of the pulley wheel covering part of the bolt head. If you look at any manual like Bentley's or Wayne's article you would not see the pulley up partially over the bolt head. Question 1: Can I just pull the pulley straight out someway? Question 2: Can you provide me any other avenues to solve this problem? Thanks

Hi, Hopefully an easy question: Will an '01 S stock exhaust fit and '03 S? Looks like it should, but I thought I'd make sure. Thanks.