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I just bought myself my first Porsche, a 1998 Boxster. I have an issue with the soft top that I'd like to get some guidance on.
The top goes down smoothly with no issues. It also comes up smoothly until it is nearly all the way up. Just before the dashboard Top light goes out, there is a pretty sharp metallic twang or snap. It did this when I was looking at the car before purchase, and it did it again this evening when I put the top up after driving the car home. I'm assuming it's getting caught on something but I wonder if anyone might have suggestions on what to look at given the late point in the cycle where it occurs?
After 18yrs my convertible top has finally encountered its first issue. After using this forum (thank you!!) to figure out how to access all of the components (top was stuck in closed position), I found the root of my issue, a bad cable. However, as I was very carefully removing the cable from the transmission, the "clip" which is molded into the plastic cover cracked and is no longer functional (see image). Not really surprising on an 18yr old piece of plastic. The transmission works perfectly and I do not want to replace it, so I am looking for advice on any other ways that I can keep the cable properly engaged to the transmission. Please let me know if anyone else has encountered this and if there are any viable solutions. Thank you!
By Andre Kristian
Hi guys, Newbie to the forum here. I have a 2002 996 C2 Cab new to me and been enjoying it since I got it 2 years ago. Mostly trouble free until two weeks ago when the cab top started to acting up and then quit all together. I had to do the emergency manual procedure, after checking all the obvious stuff (i.e. fuses, relays, micro-switches all tested and works). I started taking the mechanism apart, checked, cleaned and lubed everything, put it back together, run the calibration (Durametric), things start to work again wonderfully (or so I thought). The clam-shell lid started to hesitating and eventually got stuck halfway. I had to do the manual emergency operation again. Durametric gave a timeout error, the problem seems to be the clam-shell lid. Removed the motor and turned the mechanism manually it moves smoothly. Removed the lid motor by connecting it directly to the AC battery it's humming but the gear seems to turn hesitantly. So I took the motor apart and I found out that the plastic gear got chewed on one area (see attached pictures) where the worm gear rotating. I tried to rebuild the gear teeth by using JB Weld (and all kinds of epoxies brands and types), it's always working for a while and then same thing at the same area got chewed again. I guess it's not strong enough to hold the metal turning screw. My question now is, do I need to bite the bullet and get a new motor or do you guys have any recommendation if I can get this gear fix or custom made obviously within reasonable price (scratch that I just check with a CNC machine company it will cost roughly $300-$400). The price of a new motor is around 600 dollars at Sunset Porsche, a used one at eBay maybe around 300 - 400 dollars with the whole mechanism (which I don't need). Any suggestion is appreciate it. -Andre
I checked my '09 Cabs's drains at the end of summer and they appeared to drain fine down behind the wheels with good flow. However, now the rain is here, I'm getting water in the driver's side rear footwell (below the carpet) causing the alarm/electrics to go off. I've moped up the water and I checked the drains again between the rains but they still seem to drain well. I've checked the slot style drains from around the end of the top as well as the main drain towards the center of the car in a drainage dip.
Does anyone have any idea on where the water may be coming in from or perhaps other drains I've missed?
My convertible top broke in "fully up" position recently, with the clamshell at a 20 degree tilt. Was able to remove the clamshell by getting under it (painfully) and found a shredded motor cable going to the driver's side. I wanted to make sure that neither of the two transmissions were at fault, so I removed them to examine their gears. Carefully disassembling them, all the gears appear to be in good shape with no missing teeth, however, when using the old intact cable and using the power drill to rotate the cable, the circular interior that goes into the V-joint does not move at all when turning with the power drill. Does it only rotate when under pressure?
I'm thinking I'm *almost* there and would like to avoid $200-$400 for new transmissions if not needed...
Thanks in advance,