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If the oil cap is hard to remove, you have a high vacuum level in the sump, which is bad for a variety of reasons, including lean stalling. The correct way to access the AOS is to fully warm up the engine by driving the car for 10-15 min, then replace the oil cap with the one in the picture above with a hose that connects to the digital manometer. If the vacuum level exceeds 6-7 inches of water vacuum, the AOS is leaking air into the intake system, causing the lean stall conditions. The normal level of vacuum is typically 4-5 inches of water, which is a really weak vacuum level, so it doesn't take much of a leak to cause problems, which is why we always checked every car that passed thru the shop with the manometer.

The AOS can either be pin pointed or eliminated by having the car's sump vacuum level checked with a digital manometer (most quality shops have them as the AOS is a perpetual issue; surprise the dealer didn't do this).

Welcome to RennTech If you do not have access to a wiring diagram for the vehicle, probably the easiest way to check the ground is to pull the bulb in the light and use a multimeter to check the condition of the ground at the bulb socket.

We have used them here in the US for years at MUCH colder temperature's than you get without ANY issues. Put on the adaptor, add external magnets such as the Filter Mag, and enjoy both better filtration and peace of mind.......

My 2001 C2 top has not worked the entire five years I've owned the car, full saga below.* Without all the back story, here's where I am today. When I click "Calibrate," nothing happens and PIWIS 3 returns "Function inactive, end position not reached." The front latch is reset per the service manual, and the clamshell potentiometer was installed at as close to 6.2k ohms as I can get it (about 6.24-6.26). [I rebuilt this engine in my dining room with my cat, 12,000 miles ago—I may not know what I'm doing, but I can follow directions.] Top is in service position. Actual Values / Input Signals Latch locked Catch not locked Latched unlocked Catch not unlocked (can't be both, right, has to be one or the other?) EDIT: RESOLVED, please see follow up post. Convertible top Convertible top raised Convertible top compartment Convertible top compartment lid unlocked Right side flap up Right side flap not up Right side flap down Right side flap down Left side flap up Left Side flap not up Left side flap down Left side flap down Speed Speed >5 km/h (3 mph) (that's not correct) Handbrake Applied Latching hook Latch hook not actuated Engine-compartment lid Engine-compartment lid closed Convertible top button Close convertible top button actuated Supply voltage 14.45 v Warning light on 36044.3 min (!) Actuation counter 1 1746 Actuation counter 2 65536 Calibration counter 2 Pot 1, convertible top 0.92 v Pot 2 (conv. top compartment. lid) 2.51 v Calibration: Pot 1 val 1 0.80 v Calibration: Pot 1 val 2 1.27 v Calibration: Pot 1 val 3 1.88 v Calibration: Pot 1 val 4 2.29 v Calibration: Pot 1 val 5 2.96 v Calibration: Pot 1 val 6 3.22 v Calibration: Pot 2 val 1 1.55 v Calibration: Pot 2 val 2 1.82 v Calibration: Pot 2 val 3 2.00 Calibration: Pot 2 val 4 2.71 These aren't even actual calibration values, are they, they're stored values from the last time it successfully calibrated. It's my latch isn't it. There's a microswitch I've overlooked, a stupid simple on off switch, and because of that, it never starts the calibration process. Guess I'm going out there one more time this weekend and taking that off again. Insight invited, thanks for letting me ramble. 😄 Keith *The Complete Saga I bought the car like this in January of 2001. Tip cab with a top that had been manually put up via emergency procedure. Dash light for the top was on. I found a matching hardtop an hour away that same week, manually put the top down, slapped the hardtop on, and drove it. Turns out, the left rear window regulator had failed and someone had manually pulled it up (the motor was missing) and then drove a drywall screw through the regulator frame close enough under the bottom of the window bracket that the window stayed up. I rebuilt both rear window regulators and in October of 2021, started working on the top. I probably didn't reset the latch correctly at that time, or the clamshell pot. Still, I told Durametric to calibrate and it started to. When the top moved doubt 1/2 way up, I could hear the pump motor straining and—since the rear interior panels were still off—I took a look: both hydraulic pistons were jetting fluid down the rain drains. I put the hard top back on. Then the engine failed, then (unrelated) I moved, and I spent all of 2023 rebuilding it. July, 2024, I sent two cores to Cab Hydraulics in Sarasota to rebuild. Put them in, new hoses too, and this time I reset the latch and the clamshell pot correctly. I think. But there was no longer a top warning light on on the cluster. I told Durametric to calibrate it, and it wouldn't. Opened a dialogue with the developers, sent them logs they asked for, did everything the guy said, and the last I heard was that maybe their software wouldn't calibrate it unless it was in an error state. Then (not their fault) I took a job and started the process of moving. Hard top went back on. July 2026, time to get back to it. I knew I was going to have to have access to PIWIS, so I followed that thread on some other forum ("under $75") and got the image running on my shop computer. Which, I understand, isn't the same as pulling up to the dealer, so I'm aware that's a possible failure point. I 100% believe the latch and clamshell pot to be correctly reset now. No dash light. When I click "Calibrate," nothing happens and PIWIS 3 returns "Function inactive, end position not reached."

My convertible top has never worked so today I started testing all systems. I reset the lid potentiometer to 6.2k, manually opened the front latch and told the PIWIS to perform a calibration. The windows begin to lower but they stop moving after a second, triggering the dreaded "Function inactive, end position not reached" error. I tested all of the microswitches and got good results. I moved on to the "Drive links checks" and can move everything (except for the side flaps) but not for more than a second before receiving "Function inactive...etc" errors every time. For some reason the convertible top ECU is receiving an actual speed value of "Speed >5km/h (3mph)". (Highlighted in yellow on the attached screen grab). Is that enough to halt every attempt to perform calibration or drive links checks? I found a DIY from Loren (see below) that said to cut the GREY/ PINK wire leading to the top ECU if you want to eliminate the speed check for top operation. I checked it against the 2000 wiring diagram and made sure it was pin 13 on connector 1. CUT! And there was no change in the Speed value. Still reading above 5km/h - 3mph with the car standing still, parking brake on. Is there something else that will cause "drive link checks" or calibration to last only a moment before returning a "Function inactive, end position not reached" error? Thanks! )

I have a '99 Carrera and I'm struggling here... I just replaced the gas filler vent valve and I was still having trouble filling. I did a search and read about re-installing the reed sensor. I pulled the fender liner and vent valve, but I can find the reed sensor anywhere. Where is the connector for the sensor? There are no loose wires anywhere to be found and I didn't tuck away or see anything dangling when I removed the original vent valve. I find this so strange.

Must not be seeing one of the microswitches (dirty, misaligned, or broken).

Try 4897

Try 5016

Try 5430

Porsche only - find a donor car to get them from.

Try 7682

It that a plug or plastic pop rivet? I am only finding the plastic rivet.

Having spent months chasing down my very heavy steering (yes I know some like it like that) I have finally managed to over come the heavy steering by bypassing the servotronic system and locking it into 75% assistance effort. Here's how I did it, but I would appreciate any thoughts on why it wasn't working if anyone has any constructive comment about the acceleration sensor readings - which is what I think the main culprit is.

Chances are your 20 plus year springs have softened and are already sagging a bit. Springs, swaybars and struts are a matched set - I would not mix them as you could produce unstable handling. Especially if you track the car. RoW 030 is fine for street and most track driving - you just have to be careful of large speed bumps on the street. PSS-9 (adjustable) Coilovers can supply suspension tuning and even lower for track days - but you would definitely want to raise it up for street.

Blue/white marking are stock springs. For factory Sport Suspension you will need new springs, stuts, and swaybars. RoW Sport Suspension Package for 3.2S 6 speed - Carnewal WWW.CARNEWAL.COM

👍

I waited until I could confirm my problem is solved. After asking the dealer multiple time about vacuum level measured with a digital manometer and never getting a straight answer, I spent some time talking to the tech before proceeding. According to him, the reason the car would start when cold is it was still going through the 90ish second startup sequence with secondary air injection, coupled with the vacuum leak caused by the AOS. Which, to my not-very-Porsche-tech brain kind of made sense. After getting the AOS replaced, along with a cracked brittle oil fill tube and one or two other related minor bits that were also old, cracked and or worn out, the car seems to run fine, was actually quieter than I ever remember, and the stalling problem is resolved. And no CEL since the repair. There was never any big clouds of smoke usually associated with a failing / failed AOS.

See if any of the fault codes have changed. If not, then I would still go the path based on the FRAU readings.

Still Fighting the misfire, local shop checked some things and found that my battery cable, the bolt that goes through the fire wall and starter / alternator cable needs to be replaced ( starter also ) before they go farther with diagnostics. $720 for diagnostics and $4000 to replace above parts (parts included) Payed for diagnostics and did all work myself. Still same problem - misfire on cyl-1 and sometimes on 3 ( misfire on 4 was just loose coil from my sloppy install ) work in progress 😞

I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and so far, seems to have fixed the problem. The engine has started a lot quicker when cold and when warm. One of the easier jobs I have done on this vehicle. Although I do have one of these lifts I purchased about 8 years ago, it sure helps a lot (made in Germany): Scissor lifts WWW.TWINBUSCH.DE Scissor lifts

Try 1098

Just to close this thread. The alternator died sitting on a shelf for 6 weeks while other work was being done. A new alternator fixed my issues. I hate when something goes wrong simultaneous with other issues.

Sometimes these systems store a lot of secondary codes that confuse what is really going on. I would start by clearing all the codes and then see what comes back.

You should be comparing the voltages for the O2 sensor ahead of the TWC to those after the TWC: The voltage curve for the senor after the TWC should be a relatively straight line, the one ahead the should be a sine wave like pulse; if the voltage curves are both sine waves, the cat is toast.............

Non, push down with one hand, squeeze the ribbed bottom ring with the other hand and pull up, this is not as easy as it looks, succes.

Your alternator is not functioning, running you should have 14.5V DC. Pull the alternator, check the wiring connections to be sure they are tight and seated, if they are you are in the market for a voltage regulator..........

Do this someplace safe... Put in Neutral and see if the noise continues or not. If it does not continue then it is likely in the drivetrain (transmission, transfer case, driveshaft, rear end}. If it does continue then it is likely in the running gear (wheel bearing, axle shaft, or even warped brake discs).

Sorry I have not replied. I did not buy the Cayenne it belongs to a friend of mine and I enjoy working on them when I have time so I spend a few days a week fixing stuff. It been fund and I love finding something that is bad from either age or the last repairman messed something up. so far I have replaced both valve cover seals with the cam actuator seals and spark plug tube seals and new spark plugs. I also replaced the vacuum pump and fixed the power brake vacuum hose that was cracked on both ends, I also replaced the purge valve. I also made a new vacuum line from the oil air separator to front timing chain cover out of copper pipe with rubber ends. I was very pleased to see how nice the motor runs now. I also replace the rear hatch actuator to unlock the rear hatch before you would hit the button but it would not unlock you had to use your finger to manually unlock it from the inside. that's fixed now. Right now I have the head liner and the sunshade off and getting ready to clean the old headliner before I put in the headliner but, before I put back the headliner I'm going to replace both struts for the rear hatch, the glass does not stay up at all and the hatch does stay up but it slams when its closing. I also fixed the drivers seat back cover that kept coming off, I ran a screws 1/4 through bottom of the back cover to hold it to the seat. I have to do the same thing to the passenger side seat too. once I have everything fixed inside the car I need to see what the oil leak it has/had is coming from it could be from old valvecover seals that I replaced or the transmission is leaking. when he first dropped off the car the oil leak was massive and now after the work I have done to the car the oil stain is a drop so that may be fixed, but I need to see and make sure. Oh I'm having a problem finding the struts for the hatch the car has the power liftgate, I find the struts for the glass but I can't find for the power lift gate, does it now use struts for the hatch on the power lift get?

You need a Porsche specific scan tool to see the faults, something like the Durametric system or a PIWIS system, no other scan tools will be able to see the faults.

If you get a honk it means you have at least one zone open or one (or more) fault codes. You will need a Porsche compatible scanner to get the fault code and report it here. It should narrow down exactly where the problem(s) are.

Try 5350

Thanks for the heads up! Maybe they meant litres. I fixed my lack of bass with gutting the stock cabriolet subwoofer enclosure and sealing it for a proper 8" DVC subwoofer install. Super happy that I did and only cost me my rear speakers since running 5 channel amp. Cut a hole in the box and flipped it over and cut to epoxy the old speaker hole closed. Added more foam to the "bass tube" after trimming to seal the whole enclosure.

Try 9432

In case someone searches for vacuum line routing in the future

P0441 code is EVAP purge valve, alongside the drive side intake manifold tubes. P2281 Code is most likely an air leak between the MAF and the throttle body, the code generally means that the powertrain control module (PCM) has detected a degree of airflow at the mass airflow (MAF) sensor which does not exist at the throttle body.

On my 2000 C4 I was lucky enough to have nylon screws. They broke of course, but drilling and tapping was easy with a few tricks and observations: Using a soldiering iron to melt a hole through the center of the nylon screw makes drilling MUCH easier Used a 3/16" drill bit to remove the majority of the nylon then used a 6mm x 1.0 to clean the threads Plunge depth is 3/4" Use a "bottom" tap rather than a "tapered" tap so you clean threads quickly and without significant insertion.

I had the same problem. I found a thread,not too long ago, mentioning to take driver side sill plate off and look under seat memory pushbuttons to check for a disconnected plug. Yup, mine was unplugged. Whole thing took me 20 minutes to do with an ipad to display the dyi instructions, flat screw driver and hex heads. Now my keys and seats work flawlessly. Might be worth a try. Happy hunting!

P0455 Leakage in fuel tank system Diagnostic conditions D Vehicle speed = 0 km/h D Engine speed = 0 rpm D Correction factor, height > 0.73 D Coolant temperature upon starting the engine may be no more than 6.8 K above ambient temperature D Coolant temperature when engine starts > 3.8 °C D Period for which the engine needs to have been running before ignition is switched off > 20 minutes D Ignition has been switched off for at least 10 seconds. D Ambient temperature 4 … 35.3 °C D Active charcoal filter load < 3 for minor leak D Fuel tank fuel level 10 … 54 litres D Battery positive voltage 11.02 ... 14.5 V D No fuel tank filling D No faults detected for ambient pressure sensor, coolant temperature sensor, vehicle speed sensor D No output stage faults detected for DMTL pump motor, DMTL switch-over valves and tank vent D No fault detected for tank vent (flow) E The diagnostic conditions can also be established using the PIWIS Tester via the short test "tank leakage test". After the test has begun, the ignition must be switched off. F NOTE E In this context, please also observe the function description. Possible fault causes E Tank cap not closed correctly, leaking or missing E Purge air line leaking E Tank vent leaking E DMTL (Tank Leakage Diagnostics Module) leaking E Leakage in fuel tank system Page 140 of 398 07/20/2006 Function description Tank leakage test/DMTL – Tank Leakage Diagnostics Module F Note E The tank leakage test is performed only on USA vehicles. Construction of the tank leakage diagnostics module: The diagnostics module consists of an electric motor with a small air pump, switch-over valves and a reference nozzle. In addition, the modul is heated so as to prevent the forming of condensation and ice. Procedure of the function: E The pump is operated via an electric motor and conveys air through the reference leak. The power consumed during this process is determined. E The switch-over valve switches and the air current is now directed into the fuel tank. The power consumed during this process is also determined. After a waiting period dependent on the fuel tank fuel level, it must be at least as high as the power consumption was during the reference leak test if the tank system is leak-free. E The system is identified to by leaking if the power consumption is lower during the actual leakage test as it was during the reference leak test. E An evaluation of the power consumption levels when the pump is started and after the switch-over valve has switched serves to identify faults within the tank leakage diagnostic module (e.g. pump blocked, motor spins at idle speed, valve does not switch etc.). E The diagnosis of heating, motor and switch-over valve is performed via the output stage of the DME control module. P0456 Leakage in fuel tank system Diagnostic conditions D Vehicle speed = 0 km/h D Engine speed = 0 rpm D Correction factor, height > 0.73 D Coolant temperature upon starting the engine may be no more than 6.8 K above ambient temperature D Coolant temperature when engine starts > 3.8 °C D Period for which the engine needs to have been running before ignition is switched off > 20 minutes D Ignition has been switched off for at least 10 seconds. D Ambient temperature 4 … 35.3 °C D Active charcoal filter load < 3 for minor leak D Fuel tank fuel level 10 … 54 litres D Battery positive voltage 11.02 ... 14.5 V D No fuel tank filling D No faults detected for ambient pressure sensor, coolant temperature sensor, vehicle speed sensor D No output stage faults detected for DMTL pump motor, DMTL switch-over valves and tank vent D No fault detected for tank vent (flow) E The diagnostic conditions can also be established using the PIWIS Tester via the short test "tank leakage test". After the test has begun, the ignition must be switched off. F NOTE E In this context, please also observe the function description. Possible fault causes E Tank cap not closed correctly, leaking or missing E Purge air line leaking E Tank vent leaking E DMTL (Tank Leakage Diagnostics Module) leaking E Leakage in fuel tank system Function description Tank leakage test/DMTL – Tank Leakage Diagnostics Module F Note E The tank leakage test is performed only on USA vehicles. Construction of the tank leakage diagnostics module: The diagnostics module consists of an electric motor with a small air pump, switch-over valves and a reference nozzle. In addition, the modul is heated so as to prevent the forming of condensation and ice. Procedure of the function: E The pump is operated via an electric motor and conveys air through the reference leak. The power consumed during this process is determined. E The switch-over valve switches and the air current is now directed into the fuel tank. The power consumed during this process is also determined. After a waiting period dependent on the fuel tank fuel level, it must be at least as high as the power consumption was during the reference leak test if the tank system is leak-free. E The system is identified to by leaking if the power consumption is lower during the actual leakage test as it was during the reference leak test. E An evaluation of the power consumption levels when the pump is started and after the switch-over valve has switched serves to identify faults within the tank leakage diagnostic module (e.g. pump blocked, motor spins at idle speed, valve does not switch etc.). E The diagnosis of heating, motor and switch-over valve is performed via the output stage of the DME control module.

Although embarrassing to air my mistake, I thought I would post this in hopes I might save someone else from the same problem: If you have adjustable coilover shocks, do not attempt to change your car's ride height unless you are doing it while corner balancing with scales. I rationalized that if I set the ride height using the factory measuring method (documented in multiple places on this site) I would get "close enough" to a balanced car for a 996 that isn't tracked. Wrong. I worked on a level floor, with a full tank of gas (per spec), new tires with factory-recommended tire pressures, using the factory-recommended ride height measurement points, drove the car a few yards after each change to settle the suspension, and after a lot of hard work I was dead on with each of the four measurements. A local indie shop, not really performance oriented, vetted my approach and said it should be fine, it's what they would do. Even after a perfect-to-the-spec alignment this morning the car pulls to the right, enough at 40 mph with hands off the wheel to change lanes in less than 50 yards. My effort was wasted and I'm out the cost of that alignment. The car goes in for a pro corner balance to correct the issue and I'll end up paying for another alignment. Lesson learned. In truth, the effort wasn't entirely wasted because I learned about the stiffness of the chassis, how even a minute change of 1mm in shock adjustment can affect all four wheels, and how each of the wheels is affected. Dialing in the ride height was a PITA but a learning experience that I believe transfers to doing a corner balance. If you install height-adjustable shocks, you must corner balance for optimal handling even if your car is a daily driver and not tracked. Bless you suspension techs who do corner balancing for a living!

2001 C4 Cab. 58k miles. I have this exact problem, ticking that happens at idle, but slightest depression of clutch pedal makes it stop. Got new clutch 4 months 4 k miles ago. The noise started a few weeks ago,. Any idea how in the world the clutch master could be making that noise? Reluctant to replace without seeing how it could be the problem. Thanks.

I think this will do it. Good luck. DC Porsche 997 PCM Removal.pdf

Changed the master clutch cylinder and the noise is gone. Thanks for all of your comments. Carrera3.2, When I did the clutch/flywheel, I also replaced the: - IMS bearing and flange with LN Engineering upgrade - All 3 cam chain tensioners - RMS - AOS - Water pump - LN engineering Low Temp thermostat - Slave cylinder - Clutch master cylinder - Sparkplugs and all 6 coil packs - Cardan Shaft (the rubber guibo on my original shaft was cracked) - Coolant reservoir tank and cap - Changed Trans and front diff fluid - Changed oil and filter Hope this helps. If I can think of anything else I did, I'll add to the list. My car drives amazingly well now. Britt

I could not disagree more. You want the TB to be dry as only air passes over it.

They "pop" off, you can use two flat screwdrivers, a door trim clip disposer fork, or similar tool.

I have just completed an OBC and Cruise retrofit to a UK spec 2002 Boxster S (pre facelift). Much of this was possible due to EdBs great work as you will see. Apologies for UK shop names, currency and measurements but this is a direct copy from my post on Boxa.net. Parts List Porsche 996.613.219.10 4 Stalk Steering Wheel Assembly (£80 delivered Porsch-Apart) 999.652.972.40 Cruise Control Connector (£0.29) 999.650.513.40 OBC Connector (£2.86) 999.652.901.22 Pin Connector (9 for Cruise) (£0.27) Unknown Fuse holder connector for 1.00mm2 cable Volkswagen 000 979 009 Wires for OBC Connection (5 Reqd) (£0.99) General 1 off 6mm Eyelet Crimp Connector. 1 off 25mm rubber grommet. PVC coated copper wire (0.5mm2-0.63mm2 conductor area). 4 off 5m runs (Blue, Yellow, Brown, Black) and 1 off 2m (Black) required for Cruise. If you buy another 9 pin connectors and an extra 5 off 0.5 m of wire you can make your own wire runs for the OBC and do away with the VW set. (I used the standard 16/0.2 Equipment Wire from Maplin (£1.10 for 10m) and ran the loom inside the sheathing from standard networking cable. Even with the long wire run the voltage drop is acceptable). Porsche seem to use standard vehicle (9/0.3) cable that you can get from motor accessory shops (not Halfords). I shamelessly used, and totally relied upon, EdB’s Cruise control hack from the RennTech Forum, the Porsche Cars of America OBC hack and various snippets and advice from Boxa.net. I found the pictures from D2 Performance on the Whiteson site particularly useful for fitting the stalk assembly although I had to make allowances for my car being a 2002 Boxster S. I will comment no further on the OBC hack or fitting of the new Stalk Assembly as they are well covered already. Just remember that on a 2002 car without factory OBC you will get full functionality but on the old type of display, i.e. you will not get the dot matrix display as in the Owners Handbook. Just in case you attempt his in isolation you will need to open both rear and front luggage compartments, open the driver’s door, partially open the hood and then disconnect the battery (having left the ignition on for the sake of your ears!) All wires in the Cruise Harness, with the exception of the Fuse Box, need to be terminated with the Porsche crimp connectors above. You will need a decent crimping tool for these little devils. Work from front to back of the car, leaving the connectors at the rear of the car until you have the rest of the loom in place (you can’t stretch wire!) The Cruise Connector from the 4 Stalk Assembly exits to the left of the steering column. One of the wires (Black/Pin no 2) needs to run across to the right and into the back of the fuse box. I found a cable run, just to the right of the steering column and below the instrument cluster, that exits onto the main wiring harness under the dashboard and against the right side of the car above the fuse box. To get access behind the trim to the right of the drivers footwell, pull off the Fuse Box cover and undo the 4 philips head screws. Pull the panel forward at the bottom (lift or remove the floor mat) and it will come away. You have now uncovered the main loom running down to the Fuse Box. The Black lead (Pin No2) from the Cruise connector needs to join the Black wire running to Fuse B7. This is the brake circuit and provides the brake cut off signal to the cruise control logic. At this point you can either splice into the brake wire (easy but less elegant and I was concerned about causing voltage drops in the brake light circuit) or spend ages removing the Fuse Holder Crimp connector from the back of the fuse box and replacing it with another, this time with both cruise and brake wires crimped in. To achieve the latter, spring the front of the fuse box off the bulkhead by lifting the catches that sit behind the, now empty, screw holes. The Fuse Box drops forward so that you can remove the entire second row of fuses by lifting the plastic sprig clips at each end. A white retaining rod runs down inside this fuse matrix and is withdrawn by simply pushing on the narrower end. Remove fuse B7 and use 2 small screwdrivers to release the spring retaining clip from the front of the matrix to release the spade type fuse connector. Cut off and replace with the new connector, crimping in both original brake and new cruise wire. This is undoubtedly the hardest part of the whole job and I must admit that I have simply soldered the new wire to the existing fuse connector until I can get the correct part from Porsche. The remaining cruise wiring harness is made up of 3 wires from the Cruise Connector and 1 wire from the back of the instrument panel (Cruise Indicator). It is strongly recommended to use different colours for all of these wires, as they need to run to the back of the car. The wire to the back of the instrument panel connects into the left hand or White main instrument connector. It needs to slide into pin 17 for the Boxster S. See EdB’s instruction for the Boxster pin assignment. I ran my harness down the right hand side of the car, although, the left side would follow the Porsche convention and be easier if you were running the rear speakers at the same time. It really is personal preference. I ran the harness alongside the single black wire (actually all the same bundle) until reaching the bottom of the driver’s door pillar. I removed the trim running along the sill by using a 5mm hex spanner inserted into the 2 small, blanked off, holes on the inboard side of the trim. Loosen these bolts 2-3 turns and then firmly lift up the trim panel. I had to move the driver’s seat forward and then back to get the spanner into the holes. I ran the cable through the void on the inside of the sill trim, using cable ties to stop rattles. At the rear of the sill I removed the carpeted panel running up to the rollover bar. This was done by undoing the small Philips had screw concealed in the carpet about 4 inches from the floor, and then loosening the small 8mm nut at the top of the panel just behind the rollover bar. By lifting and twisting the bottom towards the driver’s seat, the panel can be removed from the car. The wiring harness was passed up through the plastic sill trim (don’t use the hole for locating the carpeted panel that you have just removed) and around behind the seat belt inertia reel. For the next phase you will need to lift the rear of the hood to provide access to the deck above the engine bay. As part of the preparations for this job you need to have operated the hood mechanism until the tonnaeu cover reaches the highest point. From outside of the car locate the small plastic gutter at the rear of the fabric top and slide it downwards and out of the retaining clips. Next slide your hand under each side of the hood just below and behind the rollover bars to locate the ball connectors on each end of the hood tensioning wire. Simply pop these off the ball joints. The rear of the hood can now be lifted to reveal the top deck. At this point you also need to remove the lining from inside the rear luggage compartment. The simplest way to do this is to remove the bottom first and then the back as they interlock. You can remove only the back but this requires some confidence. To remove the bottom carpet remove the boot catch cover by undoing the 2 philips head screws. Next pop out the 2 press connectors to each side and finally unscrew the connectors above each of the light clusters. To the right of the boot opening you will find 2 plastic slotted connectors, these must be turned a quarter turn to release them. The bottom carpet can now be removed. The back panel is held in place along the top edge by 3 push fit connectors. Simply pull the bottom of the panel forwards, disconnect the lamp and remove the carpet from the car. I had taped a large cable tie to the cruise harness and managed to feed this from inside of the car, along just inboard of the rollover bar and out under the lining of the hood stowage. I ran the wires under the soundproofing on the deck and out to a hole at the rear right hand corner of the deck. This hole ran straight into the top right hand corner of the boot. I used a standard 25mm (20mm hole) rubber grommet to prevent chaffing on the wires. At this point you can run the wires directly to the Cartronic Engine Management Unit, or up and over through the hoop frame to join the remainder of the cars wiring. I did the latter which in retrospect serves little purpose. Once you have worked out exactly how long a harness you need, crimp the remaining 4 connectors to the wires. The new harness has to be added to the second connector down from the top of the Cartronic Unit. Once you have removed the connector you will see it is numbered 4 on the mounting plate for the unit. To get access to this 40pin connector you will have to remove the gold coloured anti-tamper shield. This is bolted in place using security nuts, however, they were easily removed using strong pliers. Remove the top connector that gives access to the one that you want. At the bottom of the plug are 2 small plastic spring clips, which release the connector blocks (2x20 pins). Pin No 1 from the Cruise plug (Blue) goes to Pin No 27 on the Cartronic Unit. Pin No 3 from the Cruise plug (Yellow) goes to Pin No 25 on the Cartronic Unit. Pin No 4 from the Cruise plug (Brown) goes to Pin No 19 on the Cartronic Unit. Pin No 17 from the Instrument Panel goes to Pin No 18 on the Cartronic Unit. Now all you have to do is put everything back together! The system will not work until the car’s computer is updated from a PST2. It cost me 30 mins labour to get his done for both OBC and Cruise. Be aware that 1 OPC refused to activate the cruise for me on safety grounds after talking to Porsche GB. They had previously told me that they would be happy to do the work (I did check before I started!). I have some pictures for those who may want them but don't want to clutter the site unnecessarily.