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Central Locking/Alarm Issue


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HiI've just bought my first Porsche, a 1997 2.5 Boxster Manual UK RHD spec. It has got a few problems that I suspect are linked but don't know how to solve. Issues as follows:-Passenger (left side) door does not lock either with the key or the remote or the button on the dashRemote button on key does not work even though the LED lights up and the red light on the dash flashes.I can open/lock the drivers door with the key but when I do, the horn beeps twiceOther than that, car works fine and starts/runs perfectly.I've got hold of a durametric and got the follwoing fault codes/messages:-AlarmCurrent Fault Codes47No Central Locking PossibleCentral Locking synchronisationStatus: PresentNumber of times DTC present: 146No Central Locking PossibleCentral Locking synchronisationStatus: PresentNumber of times DTC present: 141No engine start possibleTransponder pill faulty or not presentStatus: Not presentNumber of times DTC present: 134No passenger compartment monitoringInterior monitoring sensor short to B+ or faultyStatus: PresentNumber of times DTC present: 145Central Locking or unlocking not possibleServer motor. Central Locking system short to B+Status: PresentNumber of times DTC present: 2Bit of a long list but anybody got any idea what all that means on a practical level ie how do I fix it!Thanks for your helpRichard

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Best guess - the passenger door lock unit is broken. I'm guessing this for two reasons. One, the passenger door doesn't lock remotely, with the key or the console button and the driver side door does lock with the key. Does the driver side door lock with the console button? Two, no synchronization typically means the car recognizes one door is locked and the other one is not locked, hench no sychronization.

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It's hard to know. When I had a central locking system problem, I had multiple codes and multiple symptoms. For example, the keys worked sometime and didn't work other times. The center console lock LED would come on by itself and shut off by itself. I thought for a while that the problem was in the infrared internal motion sensor. I thought it at other times it was broken key electronics. I wondered still at other times if it was some other system component. Luckily one day, I noticed that I could make the console LED come on by lifting the passenger door handle. I figured that one of the mircosensors failed in the lock mechanism and replaced the locking unit. Since then everything has worked normally. Perhaps a dealer with a Porsche diagnistic computer could pin the problem down to the precise part by acutating the locking system components one component at a time and look for what piece triggers a fault. Otherwise, I would replace the door lock if I didn't want to spend money paying someone to run further diagnostics.

Edited by thom4782
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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks everybody for the advice. Turned out to be the box as expected. Old water damage had ruined it even though it was completely dry when I got to it. Box was £300 and about £100 to reprogramme the key. Oh well! All sorted now.

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  • 1 year later...

I hope you don't mind me jumping in on this; I have what appears to be a very similar problem with my 2001 S and its driving me nuts.  Symptoms: car alarm will occasionally chirp twice while driving (very embarrassing) and door locks actuate.  Car will occasionally do the same thing while its at park, with the key out.  The door lock light in the dash occasionally comes on and stays on.  Other symptoms: locking/unlocking the car with the key in the door handle seems to work fine.  Both doors lock and unlock, but I notice that the gas filler door doesn't become locked.  If I use the key remote the alarm chirps once, the lights flash, and both doors plus the gas door lock, and the alarm indicator light on top of the dash flashes.  Upon unlocking/disarming with the key remote, the alarm chirps twice and everything gets unlocked as it should.

 

I took the car to my neighborhood Porsche guy and he read the error codes for me.  They are: #10 Voltage Failure at #30; #61 Center lock unit position not reached; and #47 Control locking syncronization unlocking not possible.

 

I'm seeing so many explanations for this, from the alarm control module, to a door latch mechanism, to a door handle microswitch, to a loose glove compartment lid.  Desperate to find out what is wrong before bringing it to the dealer.  I am suspicious of the door lock mechanisms, but which one?

 

Can anyone shed some light for me?

Thank you

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I hope you don't mind me jumping in on this; I have what appears to be a very similar problem with my 2001 S and its driving me nuts.  Symptoms: car alarm will occasionally chirp twice while driving (very embarrassing) and door locks actuate.  Car will occasionally do the same thing while its at park, with the key out.  The door lock light in the dash occasionally comes on and stays on.  Other symptoms: locking/unlocking the car with the key in the door handle seems to work fine.  Both doors lock and unlock, but I notice that the gas filler door doesn't become locked.  If I use the key remote the alarm chirps once, the lights flash, and both doors plus the gas door lock, and the alarm indicator light on top of the dash flashes.  Upon unlocking/disarming with the key remote, the alarm chirps twice and everything gets unlocked as it should.

 

I took the car to my neighborhood Porsche guy and he read the error codes for me.  They are: #10 Voltage Failure at #30; #61 Center lock unit position not reached; and #47 Control locking syncronization unlocking not possible.

 

I'm seeing so many explanations for this, from the alarm control module, to a door latch mechanism, to a door handle microswitch, to a loose glove compartment lid.  Desperate to find out what is wrong before bringing it to the dealer.  I am suspicious of the door lock mechanisms, but which one?

 

Can anyone shed some light for me?

Thank you

 

61 and 47 indicate that one of the door locks is not reaching the locked position and causing an alarm fault.  Most likely a mechanical issue in the lock mechanism.  He should have also been able to seen the last then alarm location faults in the system, which would of told you which door.  The OBD II manual says it could be either door, or could also be the module itself, but offers diagnostic's to help track it down:

 

Fault code 61 Central locking limit position - unlocked not reached Diagnostic conditions • Control of central locking system in the direction of "unlocked" Possible cause of fault ♦ Wrong country coding ♦ Short circuit to ground/open circuit in the wiring between the alarm system control module, central locking switch or door locks ♦ Door lock (driver/passenger) faulty ♦ Control module faulty Affected terminals Plug A, terminals 5, 28, 29, 30, 32 Plug B, terminal 3 During troubleshooting, the micro switches of the door locks are tested in Step 4. The test is to be used only for vehicles with "safe position". USA vehicles do not have a "safe" position; "Driver’s door secured" and "Passenger’s door secured" are therefore displayed during the "Input signals" test. Diagnosis/troubleshooting Note! Work instruction Display OK If not OK 1 Check coding ♦ In menu item "Country coding", check whether the alarm system control module is correctly coded for the place of use ⇒ Step 2 Recode the alarm system control module (country coding) → Ende 2 Check central locking switch ♦ In the menu item "Input signals", select "Central locking system button" ♦ Actuate central locking system switch and check the statuses on the screen ⇒ Step 3 ⇒ Step 5 96-63 page 2 9601 Fault code 61 61xxxi48 96 3 Check leads between the alarm system control module and the door locks for short circuit to ground ♦ Pull plugs A and B off the alarm system control module ♦ Pull plug off both door locks ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 5 and ground ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 28 and ground ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 30 and ground ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 32 and ground ♦ Measure resistance between plug B on alarm system control module pin 3 and ground ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 4 Repair wiring harness → End 4 Check leads between the alarm system control module and the door locks for open circuit ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 5 and pin 7 on plug of door lock on driver’s side ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 28 and pin 7 on plug of door lock on passenger’s side ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 30 and pin 3 on plug of door lock on driver’s side ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 32 and pin 3 on plug of door lock on passenger’s side ♦ Measure resistance between plug B on alarm system control module pin 3 and pin 2 on plug of the driver’s side and passenger’s side door locks ♦ Measure resistance between plug B on alarm system control module pin 9 and ground< 5 Ω ⇒ Step 5 Repair wiring harness → End 5 Check micro switches of the two door locks (possible detection of faulty driver’s/passenger’s door lock) ♦ Push plugs A and B back onto the alarm system control module ♦ Reconnect plugs to both door locks ♦ Close doors ♦ Vehicle not secured and not locked ♦ Select "Driver’s side locked", "Passenger’s side locked" "Driver’s side secured" and "Passenger’s side secured" in menu item "Input signals". Driver’s side not locked Passenger’s side not locked Driver’s side not secured (not applicable to USA vehicles) Passenger’s side not secured (not applicable to USA vehicles) ⇒ Step 12 ⇒ Step 11 6 Check central locking switch ♦ Remove central locking switch and pull plug off the switch ♦ Measure resistance between pins 4 and 1 on the central locking switch Central locking switch actuated in "open" direction< 5 Ω Central locking switch not actuated in "close" direction ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 6 7 Check central locking switch ♦ Measure resistance between pins 4 and 2 on the central locking switch Central locking switch actuated in "open" direction< 5 Ω Central locking switch not actuated in "open" direction ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 7 8 Check the wire from the central locking switch to the control module for short circuit to ground ♦ Pull plug off central locking switch ♦ Pull plug A off the alarm system control module ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on control module pin 29 and ground ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 8 9 Check the wire from the central locking switch to the control module for open circuit ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on control module pin 29 and plug on switch for central locking pin 1 10 Check the wire from the central locking switch to the control module for open circuit ♦ Measure resistance between pins 1 and 2 of plug for central locking switch approx. 180 Ω at 20 °C ⇒ Step 10 11 Check wire from fuse C 3 to central locking switch ♦ Switch on ignition ♦ Measure voltage between plug on the central locking switch pin 4 and ground> 11 V ⇒ Step 12 Check fuse C 3 or repair wiring harness → End 12 ♦ Depending on the test result of the input signals test in step 4, replace the driver’s/passenger’s door lock → End 13 ♦ Replace alarm system control module

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Sorry, I didn't see that you were the same person who posted on 986.  Thanks for your help.  Just so I'm clear, you say that 47 and 61 indicate that a "door" hasn't fully closed.  Is that to say that 47 and 61 eliminate the trunks, gas door and center glove box from consideration?

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Thank you.  One follow up question: how would I know if its the alarm module vs one of the doors?  Would the list of 10 previous alarm faults reveal that?  And if it is the alarm module, is that a dealer job?  Yikes

 

Each alarm point is recognized separately, so the alarm module should see it.  If the CLU needs to be replaced, it is definitely a dealer (or very well equipped indie) item as some recoding will be required.

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Sorry, I didn't see that you were the same person who posted on 986.  Thanks for your help.  Just so I'm clear, you say that 47 and 61 indicate that a "door" hasn't fully closed.  Is that to say that 47 and 61 eliminate the trunks, gas door and center glove box from consideration?

 

Yes.

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Awesome, this is finally beginning to make some sense, thanks.  Is the CLU the same thing as the Alarm Module that is under the driver's seat?

 

Yes, CLU stands for "Central Locking Unit", which is programmed to accept the pill in your keys and to communicate with the DME or main computer.

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Update.  I replaced the passenger side door latch mechanism, AND the ignition switch.  Best I can say is that I seem to have 'affected' the problem.  I still get the red light on the door lock button on the dash, although its less frequent.  I don't get the double-chirp while driving, although, if I press the red light button while its lit, the door locks actuate and the alarm chirps twice.

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  • 3 years later...
  • Moderators
1 hour ago, doctorz1026 said:

JFP in PA - you provided excellent diagnostic info above and mentioned the it came from the "OBD II manual".  Where did you get this manual?  Can you share it?  Thanks!

 

The OBD II manuals were originally in print (discontinued around 2005-2006) and were published by Porsche.  There is one three ring binder for each model (986, 996, etc.) and each cost between $1800 and $2300 to buy when they were still in print.  Each manual has had numerous updates (the 986 alone has nearly 100 supplement pages) to cover technology changes and super seceded parts.  Both because of their huge size, and because Porsche considers them their intellectual copyrighted property, they cannot be reproduced or shared electronically.

 

If you are interested in obtaining one for your car, search the web as they come up for sale from time to time.  

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