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2007 997 was running rough. The Durametric said misfire cylinder one. Checked the forums and saw most likely culprit was either bad spark plug, bad ignition coil, or both. Oreilly’s had the Bosch spark plug and a coul that was labeled Import Direct. For the sake of convenience I bought the plug and coil from them. The coil was actually the newer version Beru (oem) with the longer bolts. Much easier job than I ever imagined. There are good tutorials on YouTube. Engine runs great and I cleared the codes. No check engine light and codes haven’t returned. 

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That's good to know the a discount store has "the good stuff", meaning, correct late version part! Very good indeed!


As an FYI, my local Porsche dealer honors PCA members with a discount. They take care of me very well! The last part I purchased, a push rod including the pivot bolt and captive nut for Tiptronic shifting linkage (986-426-043-01), ended up costing less for all 3 parts than online sources charge for just the rod.

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Sort of, . . . it wasn't that it was difficult, it just wouldn't - do anything!


There is a "cam" on the side of the Tip where the shifter cable connects to, and this pushrod. The pushrod then is attached to the electronic box that tells the car what gear it's in. My old pushrod broke, the plastic ball-socket end totally came off of the pushrod, hence nothing. I was in a parking lot and had just shifted into Manual but the dash indicator show M-2, not M-1. I found that at that moment no other shifting could be accomplished. I could go forward only.


After ten minutes of tinkering, my date and I went to dinner in her car. Afterwards I had mine towed home where I confirmed my assumption of "where" the problem was, and discovered "what" was broken. After much searching I found only two posts related to this problem. I ordered the part from my pal at Porsche on Monday and installed it the next day.


I can imagine that if someone has a "difficult to shift" problem that it could be that the plastic end is slightly pulled from the metal rod making it "longer". It doesn't have a very long throw to its operation, so it wouldn't take much to make it "outa wack" as My Cousin Vinny would say.


In the attached photos, the first one shows the cam linkages. The larger joint on the right is where the metal rod end of the shifter cable connects to, and the middle joint is the pushrod that broke. The second photo shows my fingers holding the plastic end that pulled off the end of the pushrod. Keep in mind that this is on a 986, and I know this is off topic, but I don't know how else to answer the question of the op except for keeping this info here.




Edited by ttocs
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I put the car up on jack stands and was able to remove the broken pushrod and install the new one without removing anything else except one rear wheel. The toughest part was removing the old captive nut (push-on washer with fins).I worked on it for probably a half hour, then I finally had to resort to using a roto-hammer with a chisel bit to totally destroy that thin piece of metal, took about a minute.


You may want to consider becoming a Contributing Member which gives you access to Porsche mechanical diagrams with part numbers, etc. This is how I got the part number for the pushrod. When I went to the Porsche dealer to order the part they had the same diagram on their computer, I just pointed at the parts I wanted because I was already familiar with that diagram.

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Thanks for the information. I think I will become a contributing member. I have Durametric cable and software and the shop manual (all 5000+ pages) on dvd, but this website has been extremely helpful. Folks who have “been there done that” are an invaluable resource. 

Thanks again. 

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