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I recently replaced the coolant pipes in my car. I needed to do the job myself because there was simply no way I was going to shell out anywhere from $1500 to $3500 in labor to have it done by the dealership or an independent shop. Plus, having read about the job, I knew they would be tearing through a ton of stuff and I really feared the "oh, it also needs this" scam. I did a LOT of research on the various forums before undertaking this job. Reading and printing out anything I thought was useful information. I would highly encourage anyone reading this to do the same. Fortunately, I was not in the position that the pipes simply failed and dumped all of the coolant. I just had a semi-slow leak… dropping about a gallon of coolant every two to three weeks. So, I had time to order the parts and prepare. Prior to doing this the most complicated thing I had done myself was change the oil, replacing the brake pads and swapping out some plastic bits in the car. I had absolutely no prior mechanic experience whatsoever. However, I do work in IT, and am by nature a very technical person (I'm sure every mechanic reading this just rolled their eyes). My job is troubleshooting very complex problems on very large networks, and I think that experience probably lent itself to a successful outcome here. I'm also patient, and that is critical to getting this job done. I will say that I now have a much greater appreciation for mechanics and their skill set. This was hard. I want to caution anyone reading this that this is a BIG job and it will take a long time. My goal in writing this is so that my fellow Cayenne owners can be spared a lot of the mistakes I made and be better prepared than I was. I will say I am relieved to have this done. I feel a ton better about my car now that I don't need to worry as much about some catastrophic failure hitting me unexpectedly. One rule that I really appreciated was to only place metal on metal when working (until you actually get to removing the pipes). This prevents you from breaking plastic or tearing rubber with something metal. Trust me, pay attention to that rule. I am breaking this down into tasks, because I think it's easier to follow that way. This is how I did it. I am sure there are other ways that may even be easier, but this worked for me and my schedule. I ended up working 4-6 hours at a stretch in the garage with breaks every couple of hours. Step 1: Contribute to this forum I have absolutely no affiliation with this forum whatsoever other than I am a contributing member. The advice on this forum has personally saved me thousands of dollars, and being in IT I know the time and money it takes to run a site like this. So, contribute to the cause. However, there is a second reason to contribute, and that's to get the Porsche TSBs. The TSB for this job contains some diagrams that give you a better idea how all the replacement parts go in to place, and I thought that was handy to have. As an aside, I searched some other issues in the TSBs and found answers to some things the dealership didn't even know… such as there being a $33 replacement latch for my armrest. They wanted to sell me a whole new armrest for $750. Step 2: Obtain the Parts I looked around on the Internet and called some local sources and found a dealership that provided the parts for $550, and that included two gallons of coolant shipped to my door. To me, that was a fair price, and when I received the parts I really thought it was a fair price... there's a lot of quality stuff in there. I'm sure there may be cheaper 3rd party sources. I would just be sure they include all gaskets and such that don't necessarily need to be replaced, but should be replaced if you're tearing everything apart. Once you get the parts, pull them out of the box and examine them. Look at the pics in the forum and look at the TSBs. Get a feel for what you are replacing. Step 3: Verify you have the tools I found the following tools very handy to have, and frankly, necessary. I suggest going to your local auto parts store for most of them and get mechanic grade tools. Socket Wrench 3" Socket Extension 6" Socket Extension Metric Socket Set Torx Socket Set (think of this as a "male" Torx Socket set, you will need #27 & #40) E-Torx Socket Set (think of this a "female" Torx Socket set) Screwdriver that accepts interchangeable bits (there are times this is easier than a socket wrench) Torx Bit Set (Specifically you need a #27 and #40, I just bought a set) Locking Long Nose Pliers (6" is fine, no need for anything bigger) Regular set of pliers Wrench Set (somewhat optional) Real flat head screwdrivers Very long flat head screwdriver (this came in handy a lot) Needle Nose Pliers Small Chisel Set Hammer Tin snips Safety Glasses Mechanics Gloves One of those extension things with a magnet on the end One of those extension things with a mirror on the end WD-40 Some all-purpose grease, like White Lightning Baggies to store the screws in Masking tape/Painters Tape to cover up any exposed openings Old Bath Towels (used to protect the car) Good flashlight Lint free rags Shop Vac Two gallons of distilled water Drain pan (needs to hold 4 gallons) Shop lights A small block of wood, about 2" x 4" x ¾" A radio playing energetic music of your choice Advil and Tylenol Hope and a prayer (optional but doesn't hurt) Step 4: Book the Time I know some people say you can have this job done in less than 8 hours, but being a beginner this took me much longer. If I took out all the time running back and forth to the store for tools and such, and had a guide like the one I am writing, I still think it would have taken 10-12 hours. I ended up removing all of the engine covers on one weekend night, and then doing the actual job the following weekend. I then drove the car for a week with the new pipes and finally put all the engine covers back on over the weekend (I cleaned the covers and the engine thoroughly with a damp rag at the same time to pretty it up a bit). You don't really need to do it that way, but that split the work up a bit. I work in an office in front of a PC all day; I'm not used to working in a hot garage for 8-10 hours at a time... I'm a skinny computer geek : ) When I did the work, I draped some old bath towels over the sides and front of the car to protect it. The last thing I wanted to do was mess up the paint on a zipper or with a dropped tool/screw. Step 5: Remove the Engine Covers There are really two parts to this. You have the decorative covers over the actual engine, and then you have the covers that border the engine. You'll want to remove all of the covers around the border first. There are five of them in total. They all have these little black plastic plugs that you just turn 90 degrees. They should just pop up at that point, but you might have to give them a little lift with a screw driver. While you're removing those covers you might want to pay attention to how they go together and where they slide in to place. You'll also want to remove the windshield washing fluid cap (use the masking tape to cover up the exposed hole) before you remove the cover that surrounds it. Those little things are $4.25 each from the dealership, so try not to lose them. Now you have the three silver looking decorative covers; one on each side of the engine and one towards the front middle with the engine type on it. First, you need to unbolt the two secondary air injection units. Those are the round things with the plastic covers near the back of the engine compartment. You do not need to disconnect them from anything, just unbolt them (three screws each) and then move them off to the side. It might be a good idea to get some labeled baggies to store the screws in. Once those are removed you can get to the side engine covers a little easier. The engine cover in the front middle you just lift off, just work it back and forth a little and it should pop off. Take note that there are four little plugs that fit into holes on the cover itself, you'll need to find them again when replacing it. Now remove the one on the driver's side. It's pretty easy to remove. There are four screws towards the bottom that need to be removed, and then the cover will just come off. The one on the passenger side is a bit different. You have the engine mount right in the middle of things. Assuming you have the tools, you can unscrew the engine mount and get it out of the way. That will let you get to each of the four screws easily on the cover and remove it. I wasn't so lucky here (didn't have the right tools at the time), so I just got the four screws out of the cover and ended up wedging it out. While doing that, the piece of the cover under the engine mount snapped off. I wasn't too concerned about this, because where it snapped is hidden by the engine mount. When I put everything back together I just slid it back and screwed it in. You can't tell at all that it was ever snapped in half. Step 5a: Remove Fuel Pump Fuses You'll want to check your manual (you can also download the manual from this site), but you need to remove a couple of fuses for the fuel pump. Right in front of the driver under the hood there is a small compartment. Remove the cover, and then remove a second cover to expose the fuses. Mine were fuse 14 & 15 for the fuel pump. Store them somewhere safe. Once those are removed, start your car. It will run for a few seconds and die. Congrats, you just removed most of the fuel from the fuel line. I know some people don't disconnect the fuel rail or anything, but to me that's a bad idea. I had a lot of time to try it that way and honestly I'm glad I got it out of the way. Step 6: Disconnect the fuel line The fuel line is near the back center, it's just one tube running to the fuel rail. You'll disconnect it by using a wrench and a pair of pliers. You're unscrewing the part on the left (the thin part) from the part on the right (the wide part) which shouldn't turn as it is part of that tube. Once unscrewed, the fuel rail is only connected to the manifold. A little residual fuel might leak out, so you might want to have a rag handy to wipe it up with. Use masking tape to cover up any exposed holes. It wouldn't be a bad idea to disconnect the batteries now either. I didn't, but that was probably stupid. Step 7: Remove the Y-Pipe that goes to the Throttle Body This plastic Y-Pipe is right up front so it's very easy to get to. There are two flexible pipes on either side you need to remove first; just use a screwdriver to loosen the two clamps on each of them and you should be able to compress them enough to remove them. The Y-Pipe itself is attached to the throttle body via two long, plastic bolts. They have a screw head on them but they are not screws, they're more of a key. You just turn them a bit to line the key at the bottom (use a flashlight and you'll see it move as you turn it with the screwdriver) with the slot. When it's lined up, use a pair of needle nose pillars to lift it straight out. It's plastic and may be brittle, so be a little careful. You will need to remove an electric connection to the throttle body in order to get to one of them. There is a tube connected to the bottom of this y-pipe, so you can't just lift it out. It has some give to it, but not a lot… just enough to get your hand under there once you pull the y-pipe off the throttle body. You have to press the buttons on each side of the tube in order to get it off the y-pipe. Step 8: Remove Emission Tubes & Electrical Connections from Throttle Body There are two emission tubes crossing the throttle body, Porsche refers to them as "vent tubes." I know this because one snapped in half when I removed it, and the dang thing was $130 to replace. To remove them, you just need to press the clips at either side of the end of the tube together and then pull it straight out. I don't think mine had ever been removed, and in retrospect a bit of WD-40 used sparingly here might have been a good idea. I think I used too much force and that's why the small one snapped. I have read that some people have replaced this broken tube with a more generic tube from a hardware store. I just spent the $130 and did it right. There is a third tube connected to the throttle body, you just need to remove that one end of it. You will also have two electrical connections to remove. One you had to remove to get the y-pipe off in the previous step. Just remove the second one and then you're done. Step 9: Remove the Throttle Body The throttle body is connected to the manifold via four bolts. Remove those four bolts and it will come off. You sort of have to wiggle it out because of that thin metal bracket that's holding it there, but it will come out easy enough. Some people take this opportunity to clean it. You'll probably see some gunk on the back side of it on the inside. Step 9: Remove the Electrical Connections to the Fuel Injectors There are eight fuel injectors connected between the fuel rail and intake manifold. Mine were blue plastic, and there is an electrical connection running to each of them. There is a metal clip at the bottom that you just need to press up. I placed a flat head screwdriver between this clip and my index finger, and pushed up and pulled at the same time to disconnect it. Once you remove one you'll get the trick and the rest will come right off. Step 10: Remove the Intake Manifold with Fuel Rail Attached I know a lot of people have different ideas here, some people want to remove the fuel rail independently, and that was the first way I tried it. In retrospect, it's much easier to just leave it attached. There are four screws that hold the fuel rail to the intake manifold. I would recommend leaving these alone, especially since the one at the back on the passenger side is nearly impossible to get to. These screws are $6+ each… I know because I lost one. :P There are 10 bolts that need to be undone to remove the manifold. They don't come all the way out, they'll stay attached to the manifold. Once you loosen them enough they sort of come free and wiggle around. The one at the back on the passenger side was a bear to get to. I ended up placing the Torx Socket bit on top of it using the magnetic extension thing. I then put the 3" extension on top of it, and finally attached my socket wrench to it. I kind of built it all up I guess. I then went really, really slowly and loosened it up. Once loose, make sure to vacuum up any debris on the engine. When you pull the intake manifold off you will have eight gaping holes right down to your cylinders, you don't want anything falling in there. You can now scoot it forward a bit to get to the tubes you will need to disconnect. There are two tubes at the back of the manifold… a firm one and a flexible one. The firm one is just like the one under the y-pipe, and is easy enough to remove IF you can get enough pressure on the connector. The flexible one was just kind of stuck on mine and I left it on. You kind of have to scoot the manifold forward and angle it out, but it will come out with the fuel rail attached. You may have to remove some tubes and such from their guides or brackets. That flexible tube was long enough that I just put the whole thing on the driver's side of my engine and left it there. It didn't seem to be sitting on anything that couldn't support it. I'm sure it can be removed, but at this point in the job I was tired, hot, and just wanted to keep going. Once off, IMMEDIATELY cover up the exposed intake holes with long strips of tape. Cover them completely, and make sure they STAY COVERED. Shine a flashlight in each hole first to make sure nothing fell down there. If so, get it out as delicately as possible. Vacuum up any other debris you see. You can now see the infamous coolant pipes. Step 11: Assessment At this point, you can see the coolant pipes and should be ready for the meat of this repair. The starter is right there too… right under the leaking pipes. Brilliant, isn't it? This may not be true for you, but I had an AMAZING amount of debris in here… honestly looked like a bird had built a nest. I have no idea how it all got in there, but some where at some point tons of debris got in here, and now it was all soaked in coolant. I think my coolant leaking may have been mitigated because the wet debris probably acted as a mud and sealed everything up a bit. I vacuumed it up with a shop vac prepped for a wet cleanup. Now you need to decide if you will see this repair through or not. Once the next step is taken, there is no going back, and honestly the toughest part of this job by far is getting the old pipes out. Step 12: Drain the Remaining Coolant Your first goal is removing as much coolant from the car as you can. On the V8's, there is a drain plug at the bottom of the car, but on the turbo's you won't have one. That drain plug required an allen bit that was larger than I had on hand or could even find at a hardware store. Honestly, in retrospect I wouldn't have even bothered locating it. I'm sure there's a pipe down there you could remove, but I didn't waste time looking for. I took a tip I found on a forum, and drilled a hole right in the middle of the center coolant pipe (of three) and used a siphon with a hand pump to drain out every bit I could. I repeated this process on the larger lower pipe. DO NOT SIPHON BY USING YOUR MOUTH. Coolant is dangerous, nasty stuff. Make sure there are no animals or kids around while you are doing this. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AT ALL TIMES! Doing it this way you're going to spill a lot of coolant, but it is what it is… they've been leaking all over everything anyway. I used my shop vac to vacuum up anything I could that escaped the siphon. I've also read of people renting professional vacuum pumps to suck it all out, but again, that's more complicated than it needs to be. I did some research, and coolant is not currently controlled by the EPA for disposal, and it can't be recycled. The unofficial advice I got was to dump it in the woods and douse the area with a hose for a bit. Do not dump it down the drain or dump it where animals could readily drink it. Don't dump it in a stream. Presumably it breaks down fast enough on the ground that there isn't a long lasting effect. Step 13: Remove the Three Upper Coolant Pipes The first pipe you need to remove is the long skinny pipe with three connectors. This one is easy enough to remove, and you should have a replacement as part of the kit. One of the connectors broke off in the hole, and I had to very carefully remove the pieces. Relatively speaking this was easy compared to the rest. There is a compression ring that needs to be removed for the connection at the back of the engine, use the locking pliers to do that. Cover up the exposed holes with masking tape. You now have to remove the three upper coolant pipes. There is a bracket at the back of the engine holding the three pipes. There are also two clips attached (you'll be looking at the back side of them) to that bracket that just support a hose at the back (just has electrical connections in it, and it's probably already split so you don't have to be super careful). Pinch the connectors with a pair of needle nose pliers and they'll come off. You now have to remove three bolts from it to remove the upper half of that bracket. I removed two of them but couldn't get to the third without snapping the thing in half. Porsche was kind enough to provide a new one in the kit so I wasn't worried about it. You will now see three rubber hoses attached to the plastic pipes. They are held on to them with compression rings. Use the locking pliers on the rings to loosen them (they need to be squeezed together to loosen) and slip them back over the pipes. I did one at a time, completely removing the ring and setting it off to the side for safety. The locking pliers really excelled here. When using them, attempt to come at the ring from the top instead of the side, the grooves on the pliers will then secure the ring quite nicely. You might have to adjust the pliers a couple of time to get the right amount of the compression for the ring to move freely. With those ends free, I used the shop vac to suck out a lot more coolant. Once done, cover up the exposed holes with masking tape. Once those three ends are free, you'll need to free up the other ends. Here's the deal, they are probably going to break when you try to remove them, and probably going to snap off at the spot where they connect to the coolant reservoir. I twisted and pulled and sure enough, they snapped off. You can remove the lid of the coolant reservoir by removing several screws, a small aluminum pipe on top, and the rubber pipes towards the front of the car. The small aluminum pipe has a single screw that needs to be removed. There is probably a lot of corrosion here so you may need to use a flat head screwdriver to pry it out. Be careful, it's flexible enough to come out and get out of the way but just barely. There is a compression ring on each of the rubber pipes that is easy enough to get to, just loosen and slide it down the pipe. Suck out any coolant and cover the exposed pipes with masking tape. Once you have that lid out, you'll see the remaining plastic bits in the holes. It's difficult to move, but those plastic bits are just in there with pressure, they aren't glued or anything. I used a small chisel and the hammer to break them out. As I got to the o-rings I pulled on those with needle nose pliers and in one instance the whole chunk came out. I also used a lot of WD-40 to work everything out. What you don't want to do is take any risk of chiseling into the metal of the lid, so be careful. This is all about removing the plastic material. Each bit you remove gets you one step closer to freeing up enough pressure to get the remaining bit out. Once it's all clean, leave it off to the side while removing the big pipe. Step 14: Removing The Big Pipe This one is tough. Make sure you're rested, well fed, and cooled down a bit. If you're aggravated already, walk away and relax a bit. You will need to break this pipe into two pieces. I used a boring bit to drill a big hole in the top, and then used tin snips to cut chunks out until I got it in two parts. Again, I used a shop vac to suck out any remaining coolant as I went along. Really, anything will work… you could even use a chisel to break it out. It's coming out one way or the other, no need to be pretty about it. Once it's in two pieces, you can probably rotate the two halves apart. Use WD-40 generously on the ends first though, and give it a bit to work in there. Regardless, when I went to pull out the two ends, they ended up snapping off… leaving their end pieces in the hole. If you read through the three forums, different people use different techniques to try and avoid this with mixed results. This is the worst case scenario though, so lucky for you I fought through it and have plenty of advice. Assuming your pipe broke off as mine did, you will see a metal ring in each end, with black plastic between it and your car. That metal ring was an inner support ring for the original pipe and needs to be removed. This is a violent procedure. IMPORTANT: I cut up some lint free cloths and stuffed one into each end as far as I could so that any material from the following procedure wouldn't go any further. Once done with the procedure below, I vacuumed up anything I could and then removed those cloths. Again, use WD40 a LOT. I sprayed and sprayed as a worked, and I think it helped. READ THIS CAREFULLY: Removing the plastic and metal ring from each end is all about removing material. You are trying to get as much plastic out as possible. If you get the ring out first, great, but it's not 100% necessary. The plastic is what needs to come out, and you need to get it out from all around it. In addition to the plastic, there are two o-rings in there, so they are just adding more friction preventing this from moving. You'll get bits of that out as you work, and that's good. Eventually, you get enough bits out that the rest will just fall out. Use a hammer and chisel to collapse the metal ring on the top and sides as much as possible. I used to the chisel to cut in to it a bit too. Once I got it that far, I switched to the long screwdriver, hammering the end of it into the plastic over, and over, and over again. I pried as much as I could and worked out bits of material. This took a long time, but sometimes you'll get a big chunk out and that will give you renewed hope. Again, this is all about material removal. Keep telling yourself that. Every bit you get out makes this easier. Once you get enough plastic out, you'll see the metal ring move a bit as you work. This is a great sign and you are almost done. Ultimately, you should be able to pry it out with the screwdriver. NOTE: When working you want to work as much towards the metal ring as possible. You want to avoid scraping the inside of the hole where your new pipes will go. I did scrape up mine a bit, it's unavoidable, but regardless my new pipes don't leak. When you go to remove the bits closest to you, you're working somewhat blind and it is hard. This part almost broke me, but I used a mirror to check and recheck my work as I went along. Bright lights help here too. Honestly, I really can't say enough how hard this part was and how long it took in comparison to everything else. It was the part that had me the most worried, but I got through it. Once it's all out, remove the cloths from inside the pipe and vacuum a lot. Now is the time to clean stuff up too, as you're about to put the new pipes in. As a best practice, you should clean up the inside of those holes. I used some steel wool; I know some people used scotch bright or even buffing pads. I didn't go overboard with this; I just want to get any grime out of there. Step 15: Install the New Big Pipe At this point you should be elated. You're through the worst. Installing these pipes are a bit difficult, but not bad. If they are not already on there, put the O-Rings on the small pipe. Use the White Lightning grease or whatever you bought and coat the inside of the hole on the engine and the outside of the pipe. Use it liberally. A bit of WD40 wouldn't hurt either. Press it into the hole at the back of the engine and do your best to get it all the way in. This is where a small block of wood and a hammer come in handy; you can use those to tap it in the rest of the way. Do not put the rubber sleeve on it. For the big pipe, install the o-rings and lube everything up good with the grease, both the hole it goes in and the pipe itself. You will also need to grease up the end the rubber part goes on and the other end of the short pipe that the rubber sleeve will slip over. Place the tightening rings over the rubber sleeve as well. Slide the rubber sleeve as far as it will go over the pipe. Push the pipe into the hole, I found a twisting action worked well. I also used my metal screwdriver against the bottom of the engine bay as a lever to slide it in the rest of the way (it required a lot of pressure). You then need to rotate it to line it up with the short end of the pipe. You'll slide the rubber sleeve over it and then tighten up the two rings. NOTE: Be sure to rotate the rings as far down as possible so that the screw does not interfere with the three pipes you're about to place on top of it. The new big pipe should be in place, and you're now done with the hardest part of this job. Step 16: Install the Three Pipes You'll want to put the lid back on the coolant reservoir (replacing the seals Porsche included with the kit), reattach the pipes and tighten up the screws. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE SCREWS. I snapped one clean off. Make sure they're tight, but don't put all your muscle into it. Once on, you are ready to slide those pipes in. You do not need to put the lower bracket at the back on first; I did it after installing the pipes. Again, make sure everything is lubed up well so that any points of friction are well covered. Slide the pipes in. I used by long screwdriver again as a lever to apply the necessary pressure. On both these pipes and the big pipe it looked like I could have gone another 16th of an inch, but nothing leaks so I guess it was far enough. Put the bracket on at the back before you attach the hoses. You'll use your locking pliers again to attach the compression rings. With the bracket in place it is obvious how far up the hoses go. You'll put the upper bracket on, using the spacers for the screws and screwing it down tight. Don't forget to attach the two brackets that hold that electrical cable in place. Not a big deal if you do forget. Step 17: Install Final Pipe Now install that skinny pipe. This one is easy. Don't forget about the small compression ring that goes at the far end. Everything else just clips in. Step 18: Assess Your Work Look over everything and make sure it all looks right. At this point you should have a sealed coolant system. Check all your connections and make sure everything is solid. At this point you're home free, and you should be feeling pretty darn good. Step 19: Fill Up Coolant I use a 50/50 water to coolant ratio… so I mixed everything up with what I had and filled up the coolant tank. Once it was full, I left it overnight and checked in the morning for any fresh coolant. I was totally beat from a long day of working on it and thought putting everything back together fresh in the morning was a good idea. Step 20: Put Everything Back Together You tore it apart, now put it back together. I cleaned everything as I went, so now my engine looks great and I think that's a good idea. You don't need to go overboard, just use some lightly damp, lint free rags and wipe everything down. Porsche should have also provided new seals that go on the bottom of the intake manifold. I replaced mine dutifully, and I am glad I did. The old ones just looked worn out, no way they weren't leaking. Putting everything together is pretty straightforward once you've taken it apart. Just be careful and make sure you get all electrical connections and hoses in back on securely and in the right places (hard to mess that up). Also make sure you remove every bit of masking tape as you go. Final Thoughts I am very, very glad I did this project for two reasons. One, it saved me a ton of money and two, I now know tons more about the engine. Doing this project means I could replace my fuel injectors, spark plugs, injection coils and a host of other things when and if I have to. I know where the throttle body is, and if it's sticking I know where to go to clean it. If I need to replace the starter, I know where it is and how to get to it. I can now take my car on trips without fear of a massive coolant leak. This was the last "major" Cayenne defect for me that needed to be fixed. The water pump & drive shaft were already replaced. With 116,000 miles, I have quite a bit of faith in my car not having a catastrophic failure (knock on wood). At the end of the day, I'm pretty proud of myself for getting this all accomplished, and I hope I've saved some other poor soul a ton of time by writing all of this down. If it does help you out, please reply to this post and let me know.

On occasion during the most humid months of the year, the air coming out of the vents of my nearly 8-year-old car would smell a little 'off.' Since the a/c condensation was draining just fine and the odor wasn't ever-present, it wasn't a major concern to me. However, surfing the web I found a variety of A/C refresh kits that seemed worth a try, if for no reason other than to experiment and see if it was any benefit. But, no good deed goes unpunished. There are a variety of kits out there, some seem OE but most are aftermarket. I found them to have so much in common that I began to think they were made by only one or two manufacturers. The kits I was considering are two products: 1) a foaming spray that you inject into the evaporator housing through the condensation drain, and 2) a spray that you empty into the external air intake while changing the HVAC settings. The kits state or imply that they will clean the evaporator of crud that comes from dirt, mold, mildew, etc. and kill whatever causes odors in the venting. As I mentioned, the kits seemed nearly identical to each other so I bought one based on convenience at a local parts supplier for about $18. For another point of reference, there is a Toyota kit, part number 00289-ACRKT, that you can find here for instance. The product I used was the following: Note: This attempt to clean an HVAC system was for my particular 2003 986S. Other vehicles may be different and there are safety risks involved in doing mechanical or electrical work on a vehicle. What's presented here is a general overview of my DIY project, not a complete step-by-step set of instructions. Please obtain, understand, and follow the necessary repair and installation procedures in order to work safely, avoid damaging anything, and achieve a safe result. Preparation steps: I raised the vehicle up onto four(4) jack stands. Then I loosened or removed numerous underbody panels to expose the area under the passenger side floor pan. The location of the condensation drain is identified by an arrow in the photo below: First use the larger can of "evaporator foaming cleaner." You can read the instructions on the can in one of the photos above. I had to use another piece of tubing between the tapered nozzle and the condensation drain because the drain tube is not flexible and wouldn't hold the nozzle. That should have been the first indication to stop. Notice the grommet around the drain tube in the photo above and how the tube is inconveniently situated between the hot water supply/return for the heater core. As I was trying to force the tubing onto the drain, I pushed the drain tube and grommet into the passenger compartment. I knew it was going to be a pain to put it back, and it was. I had to remove the umbrella trim along the passenger-side door threshold, loosen the floor carpeting, and shove my arm under the carpet to reinstall it. Photos of the attachment and foam injection below: The foam went in, it seemed to sit for a while, it liquefied a bit, and then it drained out. The photo below was taken at a moment just as it was starting to drain: The liquid in the bucket was mostly clear, with a little particulate matter--nothing worth photographing. It didn't have much of a smell; it was slightly medicinal, like disinfectant. Following the instructions on the can, the next step is to use the "a/c intake refresher." Take out the pollen filter and spray into the air intake. You are supposed to change the vent settings between spraying intervals so that the mist runs through different duct work. Again, it has a slight disinfectant smell--pleasant but not flowery and not too strong. Not too bad, right?... Well, I was too preoccupied with the camera to realize what was happening inside the car: After all the effort for something that wasn't really necessary… I had to laugh. I was doing this process as I was preparing the car for winter storage. It was about 40° F (4° C) in my garage. Obviously, a lot of the foam didn't liquefy and drain. If I were to do this again, I would warm up the HVAC system beforehand, or just do the whole process at a higher ambient temperature. I'd also let the evaporator core drain longer (a lot longer) before doing the 2nd can. The photos above are the worst of it; only a little came out of the other vents. I blasted the system for a long time after that and it cleaned up without a problem--no damage to any surfaces. A few days ago I fired up the car for the season. No issues. Live and learn and pass it on. --Brian

1.) Un-screw the one phillips head screw at top center of side air intake... 2.) The molded air duct and the intake grill are still attached by three delicate plastic tabs at the three points... The best way to remove this is gently insert your fingers through the grills into the intake at the points circled in red and gently try to free the tabs... All three points come forward towards you, but if one is stuck or gets caught it will break... 3.) Inside the drivers side air duct you will find a snorkle... The snorkle is added to most US cars for noise restrictions. Now this piece is attached by no screws or tabs, but it most likely will give you some troubles removing... The best way is to remove this, just grab a hold of the long snorkle (not the small dish on the end)... Now wiggle it from left to right and vice versa while pulling out towards you. This works, but might take a little effort. 4.) This is what the intake is going to look like after the snorkel is removed... Just carefully insert the three tabs back into their points... Make sure that all three are tightly in by pushing the airduct cover (not the grill)... Insert your 1 screw into top center of cover and you are done.

This DIY tutorial covers how to remove the intake manifold on the 3.6L V6 Cayenne. Removing the intake manifold gives you access to several parts of the engine that you may need to service. Disclaimer: Perform at your own risk. This is for reference only, I am not responsible for any damage/injuries that may occur from this procedure. Please do not attempt if you are not comfortable with doing work on your car or working around the fuel system. Work in a well ventilated area as you will be releasing a small amount of gas and fumes. Difficulty: 5/10 Estimated Time: ~2 hours If you’re getting a Durametric error code P0674, you likely have a bad PCV valve that needs to be replaced. An easy way to test a bad PCV valve is to unscrew the oil fill cap on the engine while it is idling. If you feel suction on the cap and/or the idle fluctuates once the cap is removed then your PCV valve is bad. The PCV valve is built into the valve cover so your options are to buy a whole new valve cover assembly (95510513500- ~$347) or buy just the PCV membrane (aftermarket $20-25) and replace it in your existing valve cover. To get access to the valve cover, you will need to follow this DIY article to remove the intake manifold first. Other reasons to remove the intake manifold are to service your fuel injectors or to make it much easier to replace the thermostat. The thermostat can be changed without removing the intake manifold (I did it twice), however you basically need to be a contortionist to reach the bolts to remove housing and you will scrape some knuckles along the way. Tools Needed: -Flathead screwdriver -Assortment of torx bits (T20, T25, T30, 6” long T30) -Pliers -Torque Wrench -3/8” ratchet set with various extensions and a universal joint -1 1/16” Deep socket -10mm Triple Square Spline Bit -Crescent Wrench -9/16” Open End Wrench -Dental pick Parts Needed: -Brake Booster Vacuum Hose- 95535557941 (your existing hose is probably brittle and will likely crack from removing it, I recommend getting a new one) -Lower Fuel Injector Seal Kit (3X) - 95511091000 (existing seals may be brittle and once you have removed the intake manifold, they may not seal properly upon reinstallation, I recommend getting new ones, need 3 sets) Procedure: First start by removing the plastic covers surrounding the engine. Using a flathead screwdriver, remove the quarter turn plastic trim fasteners. Rotate them in either direction by 90 degrees and pop them out. Be ready to catch them as sometimes they like to jump out. Next you will need to remove the 2 torx screws on either side of the engine cover with a T25 bit and the screw under the windshield washer reservoir cap with a T20 bit. Remove the oil fill cap and front engine cover by pulling straight up. They are held on by friction rings around a stud so pulling straight up will release it. Now that you have the covers removed, it’s time to remove the intake filter box and intake piping. Using your T25 torx bit, rotate the 2 screws until the dot on the screwhead lines up with the lower indication on the filter cover. Now gently use your pliers to pull them straight out. With your flathead screwdriver, pop up the two clips to release the filter housing. Pivot the filter house towards the passenger side of the car and remove it. Remove the engine air filter as well. Next, remove the wiring harness from the MAF sensor located in the middle of the intake piping. Loosen the clamp around the intake piping on the throttle body and gently work the intake piping back and forth until it releases from the throttle body. Remove the top bolt on the engine lift bracket and loosen the lower bolt with your M10 triple square bit. Then pivot the bracket towards the front of the car. Remove the bolt next to the throttle body with your M10 triple square bit. Then unplug the wire harness from the throttle body. Remove the top bolt from the bracket on the passenger side of the engine with your M10 triple square bit. Remove the vacuum lines from the intake manifold on the passenger side of the engine. One hose requires pliers to open the hose clamp, the other can be removed by hand if you squeeze the lock ring around the hose to release it. Next, from the passenger side, reach your hand around to the back side of the engine. There is a vacuum line that goes from the bottom surface of the intake manifold to the brake booster. You will need to pull the vacuum line fitting straight down to pop it out of the intake manifold. I don't have a good picture of it so here is a diagram of it. Pull down on the elbow fitting, not the hose. Also on the back side of the engine just behind the vacuum line you removed there is a bolt that needs to be removed using your M10 triple square bit. You are working blindly so locate the bolt first by feel and guide your bit to the bolt. Remove the 3 screws holding the actuator with a T25 torx bit. Slowly pull it straight out towards the front of the car. There is an actuator arm that attaches to a shaft on the passenger side of the part. Once you have enough clearance to reach your finger in there, you need to slide the arm off the shaft as you pull the entire actuator off. Then disconnect the vacuum hose from the actuator. Now pull the coolant hoses out of their holder in the intake manifold and push it towards the driver side of the car. There is a T25 torx screw that attaches this water hose bracket near the back of the intake manifold. The screw is facing up, so you need to use your T25 torx bit and get creative with removing that screw. I used a crescent wrench to turn the torx bit while holding the torx bit in place with my other hand. With the water hose bracket free, slide the water hose bracket towards the front of the car to release it from the intake manifold. This bracket has a keyhole slot that will release once it's slid forward. Remove the oil dipstick tube bracket with a T25 torx bit. Just push it out of the way once you remove the screw. With your long T30 torx bit, remove the bolt on the intake manifold that was under the actuator. Next, there are 3 blind holes on the driver side of the intake manifold. You need to use your long T30 torx bit to loosen the screws inside those holes. Those 3 screws are captive screws so they will not come out. There are 3 bolts below the intake runners. They need to be removed with your M10 triple square bit. This is where your universal joint will come in handy. The bolt near the rear of the engine required me to use my u-joint with various entensions to acess. At this point, you will hear gas leaking out. Since you have released the pressure from the lower fuel rail to the lower fuel injectors, the pressurized gas in the rail will leak out. Make sure you are working in a well ventilated area. From the driver side of the car, reach behind the engine to remove the wire harness from the fuel pressure sensor. Using your 1 1/16” deep socket, unscrew and remove the fuel pressure sensor. Using your 9/16” open wrench, unscrew the nut that connects the metal fuel line running from the lower fuel rail. The slimmer your wrench the better. My crescent wrench did not fit here. Now that the intake manifold is completely unbolted, you can start to wiggle it free. You will need to lift the manifold up from the passenger side and pivot it up towards the driver side. You will need to wiggle the lower fuel rail loose to release the metal fuel line you just unscrewed the nut from. It is a flare fitting that pushes into the upper fuel rail assembly. Be gentle here as you don’t want to bend the fuel rail. Once the metal fuel line is free from the upper assembly, you can remove the intake manifold as described above by lifting up from the passenger side first to pivot it off. At this point, you have access to the fuel injectors if you need to service them, the thermostat housing and the valve cover. Unbolting the valve cover is straight forward from here if you need to replace the PCV valve, etc. The fuel injector seal kit comes with a rubber o-ring, Teflon o-ring, Teflon sleeve and metal clip. At the bare minimum you should replace the rubber o-ring and Teflon o-ring. Use a dental pick to remove the old o-rings. These 2 parts are the wear surface when you remove/reinstall the intake manifold and are prone to fail if you re-use them. Trust me, I learned the hard way. To install the intake manifold, reverse the steps above. Take care in sliding the lower fuel rail back onto the lower fuel injectors and lining up the metal fuel line back into the flare fitting. I found it was easier to pull the lower fuel line out of the manifold to line the flare fitting up first, then pushing it into place in the intake manifold. You want to apply even pressure on the surface as you tighten all 7 of the bolts down on the driver side. Torque the 3 triple square bolts evenly to 6 ft lbs, torque angle 90 degrees, then a final torque of 22 ft lbs. The bolts holding the engine lift bracket are 17 ft lbs, the other triple square bolts holding the manifold on the head are 15 ft lbs. Once you get it all back together, turn the key to the ON then START position without your foot on the brake. This will run the fuel pumps to build pressure back up in the fuel rail. I removed the key and repeated 2-3 times to get the fuel pressure up. The first time you restart, it may take a couple seconds to fire up due to the fuel pressure needing to build back up. If you replaced your PCV valve, it may idle rough as the ECU needs to remap since it adapted to a leaking PCV valve over time. If you did not replace the fuel injector seals and smell gas/hear it leaking after shutting off the engine, then your seals failed and you need to repeat the procedure and replace those seals.

Filter location underneath the rear seat behind the driver side Replacing the filter: Recommended to do this job while the fuel tank is almost empty Fuel tank located underneath back seat Gain access to fuel filter need to flip back seat and look under the carpet Pull the seat buckle below the seat and flip the seat bottom Remove seat mount hinge, note you need special socket to fit the nuts Find below a round cut made on carpet, open Find round stainless steel caver with four screws, open it Then you will see the filter Use special tools to open the lock ring or use big flat screw driver with light hummer to remove the ring, slowly slowly, hit from different angles and corners to distribute the hummer pressure, Then disconnect fuel hose and electrical connection from top, be careful fuel house might be under pressure Note: petrol smells very strong and harmful, do this job in good ventilated area Note: there is a house connected between fuel filter on the left side of the fuel tank and fuel bump at the right side of fuel tank. Go to the right side of rear seat and flip the seat Find carpet cut same as left seat Remove seat mount hinge, note you need special socket to fit the nuts Open the stainless steel cover Find the plastic cover same as fuel filter housing Open the lock ring Then disconnect electrical connection and fuel house from top of plastic cover Be careful fuel might be under pressure Pull the plastic cover up, look down you will find a house that going to the filter at left side and some other house going to fuel bump, pull the house which is going to filter side several times back and forth to make sure it is the correct house going to filter side Then go to filter side on the left and remove the filter and note the house going to the right side, and pull to make sure that this is the right house going to left side After you are sure of the right hose Go back to right side are and tight the house with a string (or any available robe) before pulling the house this string will help you pull back the new house for the new filter back to the right side, Unplug the house go to left side and slowly pull the filter and un plug the other house and wire connection at the bottom of the filter side and make sure to tight the house and wire connection with strings to make sure not to fall down inside the tank bottom, Note: much petrol will comes out from filter After removing old fuel filter bring the new filter and first thing to do is to tight the string we all ready have from the old filter house side and insert in the fuel tank and pull slowly to right side Then connect back house and wire connection of the filter. Go to right side pull the string until you catch the new filter house and connect back to the plastic cover and put back all parts. Go to right side and put back every thing once an again.

So i have had this annoying display with my 2004 CTT that my rear glass is open, when it really isn't. It would sometimes go away but could come back if i hit a large enough bump in the road. The particular annoyance happens every time you stop and start, it will beep at you again....OR the fact that you cannot lock and arm the car with the glass "open." Anyways this is how you can potentially resolve that issue: Tools needed: Your hands Adjustable wrench Step 1: Open the glass and remove the small plastic cover on the glass side as shown. You will want to get your fingers behind the TOP first, then pull the entire cover free. the clip are pretty strong, so it takes some force, just work it free evenly and slowly. Step 2: Now you have access to the latch on the left (metal hoop). You will want to use the adjustable to loosen the latch or nut. Once it's loose, you can turn it either in or out to make the adjustment needed. For me, i had to turn it OUT, loosening the latch. My guess is the rubber seal has become stiffer over the years, so it was pulling the latch away from the sensor. Reinstall plastic once you get the positioning correct and enjoy no more annoying messages or alarms every time you stop at a light.

Happy New Year everyone! It was cold and foggy here in Sacramento so I decided to do something about the yellowish headlights on my 03 996 C4S. I got the car about 3 weeks ago and it looks great but the headlights were somewhat yellowish. Looking at them closely, I noticed that there were very fine cracks and oxidation on the surface and decided to try to polish them. I found a "headlight lens restoration system" by 3M for $20 at Autozone. I removed the headlights and cleaned them well. Then I used a 500 grit disc (dry) on a drill to remove heavier scratches: The headlight looked completely ruined after sanding them with the 500 grit sand paper disc :o Then I used the 800 grit disc (dry) also on a drill to remove the scratches left by the previous disc: The headlight was not looking any better yet. The next step was to use a 3000 grit Trizact disc but I decided to wetsand using 2000 grit paper before: Then I used the 3000 grit disc (wet) on a drill. The disc is part of a thin foam pad so it stayed wet and worked nicely: The it was time to use the polishing compound on a foam pad. Just a little went a long way: This is the passenger's side headlight after polishing: And the driver's side headlight after polishing: I didn't take any photos before polishing them but I compared them after polishing only one and the difference was amazing. It removed all the yellowish tint from them. I'm going to buy some UV block for plastic tomorrow and see how long they stay clear and shinny. It took me about an hour and a half to do both headlights. So, if your headlights are not as clear as you would like, don't be afraid to sand them ;) Oscar

Installing an MY02 Carrera C2 (Manual) Instrument Cluster in an MY03 Boxster (Manual) I have a few of general observations. First, I selected a Carrera C2 (manual transmission) instrument cluster because, having read through several threads on this forum, there didn’t appear to be any systems compatibility problems with the installation. For example, fuel gage problems with a C4 cluster (due to fuel tank design) or oil quantity/car leveling errors with a Turbo cluster (due to engine sump differences) were some of the problems to be avoided. Once the additional wire for the oil pressure gage is installed, the change over from Boxster cluster to Carrera cluster is truly “plug and play”. Second, it is essential to get a donor instrument cluster that is compatible with your car, in terms of original vs. “improved” cluster design. MY02 and subsequent 996 instrument clusters are improved. MY01 and subsequent 986 instrument clusters are improved. If you just have the hardware in hand, look at the color of the three plug receptacles on the back of the cluster. The original cluster has blue, white and black receptacles. The improved cluster has green, blue and gray receptacles. Third, there doesn’t seem to be a problem dealing with the MOST bus, or absence of the MOST bus. If the installation is done in a MOST bus equipped Boxster, the only anomaly will be the “Porsche Protected” display on the CDR23 radio. This is corrected using a re-coding routine by a PIWIS. If the Boxster being modified doesn’t have the MOST bus (pre-MY03), then entering the radio security code is the only step required after hooking up the battery at the end of the installation. Fourth, because my car is still under CPO warranty, I had my Porsche dealer install the Carrera oil pressure sensor. I didn’t want any arguments if, down the road, there were any problems with the lubrication system that could possibly be attributed to me working on the engine. Fifth, I sent my Carrera instrument cluster to an instrument shop to have the mileage reset to approximate the mileage I anticipated to be on the Boxster when I affected the change. The mileage is stored in the instrument cluster and can’t be reset using a PST2 or PIWIS. I got a receipt from the instrument shop indicating the mileage they reset the odometer to. When the dealer re-coded the radio, I had them verify the mileage on the Boxster odometer and the mileage on the Carrera odometer. The dealer put both mileages on the work order and made an entry on page 1 of the maintenance booklet. Sixth, I had about 7/8 of a tank of gas in the car. Some of the threads I had read suggested that there would be a problem with the fuel quantity indication if the instrument cluster was changed when there was less than 19 liters/5 U.S. gallons of fuel in the tank. After the change, the Carrera instrument cluster fuel gage indicated the same quantity as before, 7/8 of a tank. Due to the winter weather, I haven’t driven the car enough to require a re-fuelling. But, the gage does seem to work properly. Last, my MY03 (e-gas) base Boxster was delivered with cruise control. I had done the OBC/4 stalk “hack” earlier. All functions of the cruise control and OBC work. The OBC display is in the “improved” instrument cluster, dot matrix format. REQUIRED PARTS New/used Carrera instrument cluster appropriate for Boxster, for example: P/N 996.641.223.00.70C Pressure Sensor, Engine Oil: P/N 996.606.203.01 New/used Cover, Instruments, for example: P/N 996.552.059.02 EFM (black) – if you want to use a Carrera part, otherwise modify the existing Boxster instrument cluster surround. Wire Pin: VW P/N 000.979.010 Heat Shrink Tubing: Radio Shack P/N 278-1611 Quick Disconnects: Radio Shack P/N 64-3132 Hook Up Wire, Stranded 20 Gage: Radio Shack P/N 278-1225 Tie Wraps: Radio Shack P/N 278-1631A Most of the Radio Shack sourced parts are well in excess to your needs. But for about $7.00 total expenditure……… REQUIRED TOOLS Ohmmeter 10mm socket with ratchet and short extension Soldering iron with rosin core solder Wire cutter Wire stripper Wire crimper Needle nosed pliers Small common screwdriver 24mm open end wrench T-30 Torx driver T-20 Torx driver 5mm hex key Ice pick or awl Scotch tape Wood matches or electric heat shrink heat gun Dremel tool with ½” sanding drum and 120 grit sanding bands (used if you modify the existing Boxster instrument cluster surround) INSTALLATION 1. Cut a length of about 12 feet of 20 gage, stranded hook up wire. Strip about ½ inch of insulation from one end. Crimp and/or solder a female, quick disconnect to the stripped end of the wire. This end of the wire will be attached later to the new Carrera oil pressure sensor. The other end of the new wire will be cut to proper length and stripped later. 2. Cut the wire pin (VW 000.979.010) in half. Strip about ¾ inch of insulation from the cut end. The stripped end of the wire pin will be attached to the new wire later. 3. Open the engine compartment using the procedures set forth in the owner’s manual (MY03, page 179). 4. From inside the car, remove the upholstery panel on back wall of passenger compartment. Slide both seats as far forward as they will go. Tip both seat backs forward as well. There are four large diameter plastic fasteners at the top of the upholstery panel, holding it in place. Use a small common screwdriver to loosen them; unscrew the fasteners. The upholstery is removed by pulling up on the panel. 5. Remove the forward engine compartment lid. There are seven 10mm bolts and two 10mm nuts. The lid may be difficult to remove if it hasn’t been off previously. 6. Remove the center console. a. Remove leather boot around the shift knob. The frame that holds the boot just unclips; pull the frame directly up. b. Remove the shift knob by pulling directly up. (Some knobs may have a 5mm setscrew). c. Remove the screw found at the forward end of the center console. Torx drive T-20. d. Unsnap left and right upper side covers from center console. e. Unsnap lower center console cover (batwing). f. Remove the CD holder (tape holder) and cubbyhole. They are removed by pulling straight back. g. Open center arm rest. Remove the rubber mat, the screw securing the plastic floor in the oddments tray and the plastic floor. Torx drive T-20 h. Remove screw found on the right forward side of the oddment tray. Torx drive T-20. i. Remove coin holder found on the left forward of the oddment tray. Use small common screwdriver to lift the coin holder directly up. j. Remove screw found under coin holder. Torx drive T-20. k. Remove ashtray (or rubber mat in non-smoker’s tray). Remove two plastic trim screws. Torx drive T-30. The plastic trim screws are threaded into two plastic bushings. If you’re not careful, you’ll loose one of the bushings. l. Pull up and remove the control panel by unclipping the ashtray light (if installed), unplugging the window operating switches and, if installed, the seat heat control switches. Use the small common screwdriver to gently pry the plugs off the switches. The plugs are tight. White switches – driver’s side. Black switches – passenger’s side. m. Remove screw found under the control panel. Torx T-20. n. Remove parking brake cover next to driver’s side seat belt fastener. Pull directly toward the driver’s seat. o. Tip passenger’s seat back all the way back, check all the wires and clips are clear, the parking brake is pulled back as much as it can be and remove center console. Lift the rear of the console while pulling back. If you have the alarm system, be sure the wire to the oddment tray latch is unplugged. p. Unclip window wire bundle from shifter base cover. q. Remove the shifter base cover. r. Using 10mm socket with ratchet and extension, loosen the four nuts that hold shifter assembly. Loosen just enough to be able to lift the shifter assembly up about ¼ - 3/8 inch. s. This information and photographs can be found at bmracing.com by downloading the B & M short shifter installation manual. And, it can be watched on 9X6 Werks, Vol. III. 7. Install Carrera oil pressure sensor. a. Put a cloth, or a blanket, over the right rear fender to protect the paint from scratches. b. The oil pressure sensor is located on the right side of the engine on the intake cam housing. c. Pull off the existing green/white wire off the Boxster oil pressure sensor. Leave the black rubber socket on the wire. d. Using a shop rag and/or small brush, clean the area around the oil pressure sensor of any dirt or debris. e. Use a 24mm open-end wrench to remove the Boxster oil pressure sensor. f. Install the Carrera oil pressure sensor. Tighten oil pressure sensor to 15+-3.5 ft-lbs g. Push the connector of the green/white wire onto oil pressure sensor terminal “WK” (the larger of the two terminals). Push the black socket down over the terminal. This terminal and electrical circuit provide a signal to the oil pressure “idiot light” on the Carrera instrument cluster. h. Push the connector of the new wire onto oil pressure sensor terminal “G” (the smaller of the two terminals). There is no socket available to cover terminal G. This terminal and electrical circuit provide a signal to the oil pressure gage on the Carrera instrument cluster 8. Route the new wire forward through the engine compartment. a. Run the wire down and forward toward the passenger compartment. Use a tie wrap to loosely hold the new wire to a wire bundle leading to a plug on the front end of the intake cam. From there, use three tie wraps to firmly (not tightly) hold the new wire to a solid, rubber covered pipe that runs low across the front of the engine compartment. b. From inside the passenger compartment, locate the rubber grommet, through which the shift cables run back to the transmission. Use an ice pick (or awl) to poke a hole through the center of the grommet. Be careful not to damage anything with the point of the ice pick. With the ice pick poked through the grommet, scotch tape the new wire to the tip of the ice pick. Slowly pull the ice pick out of the grommet while pushing the new wire through the grommet at the same time. Pull the new wire into the passenger compartment being careful not to disturb any of the tie wraps in the engine compartment. 9. Route the new wire forward under center console to the dashboard. a. Run the new wire forward between the shifter cables. b. Run the new wire under the shifter assembly, carefully keeping it from contacting any of the mounting bolts. It is possible to short the new wire to ground if it rubs up against the bolts when the nuts that secure the shifter assembly are tightened. (In the photograph below, the new wire is angled toward the shifter assembly's right forward mounting bolt. It was pinched and grounded when I tightened the shifter assembly.) c. Run the new wire up behind the CD holder and cubbyhole. d. Tighten the nuts that hold the shifter assembly. 10. Remove Boxster instrument cluster. a. Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal using the 10mm socket wrench. Cover the battery terminal to keep the cable from accidentally contacting the terminal. Depending on the Model Year, make sure the hood doesn’t get closed and locked. And, if needed, have the radio code handy. b. Press hazard-warning button so it projects out. The button can be pulled off by hand. If needed, a small common screwdriver can be used to help remove the button. With the button removed, access to the switch is available. On either side of the switch there are two locking tabs. With thumb and forefinger squeeze the tabs and simultaneously pull the switch out using the long nosed pliers. Behind the switch is one of the two cluster mounting screws. c. At the left side of the cluster, remove the trim plug/hand-free microphone. The plug can be removed if you have strong fingernails; or careful use a small common screwdriver. Disconnect any microphone wire. Behind the plug is the other cluster mounting screw. d. Using a Torx drive, T-20, remove both cluster-mounting screws. e. Have a towel, or other soft cloth, available to protect the dashboard from the clips that locate the instrument cluster on the dashboard. Remove the instrument cluster by lifting it straight up. f. To remove the three plugs, use a small common screwdriver to push down the locking tab and lift the locking lever up. It is easier to get access to the back of the instrument cluster if the steering wheel is pulled all the way out. g. Remove the hazard-warning switch plug by moving the locking tab sideways toward the center of the car and pulling the plug down and out of the cluster assembly. h. Move the instrument cluster to a safe place. i. This information can be watched on 9X6 Werks, Vol. II. 11. Finish the installation of the new wire. a. Take a three foot length of wire and feed it down through the hole on top of the dashboard, trying to get it down into the area behind the CD holder/cubbyhole. This is entirely a trial and error proposition. When you do get the wire fed down behind the CD holder/cubbyhole, tape the two ends of the wires together and pull the new wire up through the hole on top of the dashboard. b. Cut the new wire to a length that will allow it to comfortably reach the blue plug. Strip ¾ inch of insulation off the new wire. Slip a length of heat shrink over the new wire. Twist the end of the new wire and the previously cut and stripped wire pin together. Solder the wires together. Move the heat shrink to cover the solder connection. Using a match (or electric heat shrink gun) carefully warm the heat shrink material until it is tight around the connection. c. Using the ohmmeter, check that the new wire is not grounded. Attach one ohmmeter lead to the wire pin and the other ohmmeter lead to the metal structure of the dashboard. The ohmmeter should read infinite resistance. If it doesn’t, you likely have pinched the new wire on one of the shifter assembly fasteners. Don’t go any further until the shorted wire problem has been addressed. d. Open the bottom of the blue plug by squeezing the base of the plug so that the locking hooks allow the flap to be opened. e. Using a small common screwdriver, pry the lock on the side of the blue plug, allowing the assembly to be slid apart. f. The black core of the blue plug has pinholes numbered 1 through 16 on one side and 17 through 32 on the other side. The wire pin on the new wire is inserted in hole number 5. There are pins already installed holes 1 through 4 and 10 through 13. Hole number 5, in the photograph, is fifth from the left. When inserting the wire pin, orient it so the locking clip holds it in place. g. Reassemble the blue plug making sure that the blue shell locks onto the black core. Close the flap on the bottom of the plug. (The photograph below was taken before the new wire was installed in the black core. The new wire should be included in the bundle of wires when the flap is closed.) h. Use one or two tie wraps to secure the new wire to the existing wire bundle. i. At this time you can temporarily connect the Carrera instrument cluster to the three colored plugs. Make sure they are firmly and squarely connected and that the locking levers are snapped into place. Temporarily reconnect the battery and start the engine. Everything should operate correctly…..all the whistles and bells. The voltmeter and oil pressure gage should operate. The voltmeter measures the instrument cluster internal voltage and should read about 12 volts with the ignition switch turned on and the engine static. With the engine running, the voltmeter should read about 13.8 to 14.0 volts. If the voltmeter doesn’t read properly, check that the green plug is properly and securely locked into its receptacle. If it still doesn’t read the proper voltage, there may be a problem with the Carrera instrument cluster. The oil pressure gage should read about 4 to 5 bar (cool to cold oil temperature) when the engine is initially started. If the oil pressure gage doesn’t read properly, having done step “c” above, check that the new wire is connected securely to the oil pressure sensor on terminal “G”. If the connection is OK, check the continuity of the new wire, and your connections, by using the ohmmeter. Using some of the extra wire, you can connect the leads of the ohmmeter to either end of the new wire and check to see that there is zero resistance. If the continuity of the new wire is OK, you probably have a problem with the Carrera instrument cluster. The low oil pressure “idiot light” should not be illuminated. If it is, you will receive an OBC warning as well. Check that the original green/white wire is connected securely to the oil pressure sensor on terminal “WK”. If you have a car with the MOST bus, the radio will display “Porsche Protected” when turned on. In a non-MOST bus car, the radio will play if you enter the proper security code. j. At the end of the trial run, shut down the engine, disconnect the battery and unplug the three colored instrument cluster connections. 12. Assemble Carrera instrument cluster and Boxster instrument cover a. Remove the two mounting screws holding the Boxster cluster in the instrument cover assembly. They are the fasteners at the extreme ends of the cluster. Torx driver T-20. b. Separate the instrument cluster from the instrument cover assembly. c. Fit the Carrera instrument cluster to the instrument cover assembly and, from behind, mark the area that needs to be removed to enable the voltmeter and oil pressure gage to project out from the fascia. d. Using the Dremel tool and sanding drum, grind the plastic material away. As you get close to the line delineating the area to be removed, frequently trial fit the cluster to the instrument cover. 120 grit sanding bands will remove material frighteningly quickly. As you get closer to the final fit, a finer grit will give a smoother finish and more control over the final contour. e. Assemble the Carrera instrument cluster and the Boxster instrument cover using the two screws. Torx driver T-20. 13. Reinstall the instrument cluster a. With a towel or other soft cloth to protect the dashboard, lay the Carrera instrument cluster on top of the dashboard. b. Reinstall the hazard-switch plug. It slides up in groves behind the hole and is held in position by a locking tab. c. Reconnect the three colored plugs. Make sure they are firmly and squarely connected and that the locking levers are snapped into place. d. Remove the cloth protecting the dashboard and place the instrument cluster in position and firmly push down on it to snap it into place on the dashboard. e. At this point, with all the wires and plugs in place, you may want to do a final electrical check of the installation. Reconnect the battery and check that the instrument cluster operates properly. Disconnect the battery. f. Reinstall the two T-20 screws that secure the instrument cluster to the dashboard. Be careful replacing the left screw. If it falls before you can get it threaded, it will drop into the bowels of the dashboard. g. Reinstall the hazard-warning switch. It only fits into the plug one way. But, of course, anything can be forced. The switch should fit smoothly and click into place. h. Reinstall the hazard-warning button. It also clicks into place and should function properly when pushed on and off. i. Reinstall the trim plug/hand-free microphone. Reconnect the wire to the microphone, if installed. j. Reconnect the battery and tighten negative cable securely with 10mm socket wrench. Replace battery cover. k. This information can be watched on 9X6 Werks, Vol. II. 14. Reassemble the center console a. Check that the 10mm nuts that secure the shifter assembly are tight. b. Reinstall the shifter base cover. c. Clip the window wire bundle on the shifter base cover. d. If installed, plug the alarm system wire into the oddment tray latch connector. e. Carefully reinstall the center console. It may have to be manipulated somewhat around the parking brake lever and between the seat backs. Starting the replacement with the front of the console into position first is easiest. Route the wire bundles for the window operating switches, heated seat control switches (if installed) and ashtray (if used) through the hole for the control panel. f. Reinstall the 4 screws that fasten the center console, Torx driver T-20. They have coarse threads. A fifth screw, that holds the plastic floor of the oddment tray in place, has fine threads. One screw goes in at the forward end of the center console. One screw goes in the opening for the control panel. Two screws go in the oddment tray area; one under the coin holder and the other on the right forward side of oddment tray area. g. Reinstall the plastic floor of the oddment tray and fasten with the fine threaded screw, Torx driver T-20. h. Reinstall the rubber mat in the oddment tray. i. Reinstall the coin holder on the left front corner of the oddment tray. Push down and the coin holder snaps into place. j. Reinstall the light for the ashtray (if used). k. Plug in the connectors for the window operating switches and the seat heat control switches (if installed). The white plugs go to the driver’s and the black plugs go to the passenger’s side. l. Reinstall the control panel securing it with two black plastic bushings and two black trim screws, Torx driver T-30. Make sure the bushings are fully seated before gently tightening the trim screws. m. Reinstall the ashtray (if used) or the rubber mat for the non-smoker’s tray. n. Reinstall parking brake cover next to driver’s side seat belt fastener. Position the two tabs on the top of the cover into the holes on the center console and push straight on. o. Reinstall the cubbyhole and CD holder (tape holder). Reinstall the lower of the two first. They both just snap in. p. Reinstall the lower center console cover (batwing). It snaps into place. q. Reinstall the left and right upper side covers to the center console. They snap into place. r. Reinstall the shift knob. It pushes straight down. Some cars might have a 5mm hex screw that needs to be tightened, 5mm hex key. s. Snap the frame that holds the leather shift boot into place. Push straight down until it snaps into place. t. This information and photographs can be found at bmracing.com by downloading the B & M short shifter installation manual. And, it can be watched on 9X6 Werks, Vol. III. 15. Reinstall forward engine compartment lid. There are seven 10mm bolts and two 10mm nuts 16. Reinstall the upholstery panel on the back wall of the passenger compartment. There are four large diameter black plastic fasteners used at the top of the panel to hold it in place. 17. Close engine compartment using the procedures set forth in the owner’s manual (MY03, Page 182). 18. Re-code the Carrera instrument cluster/CDR23 combination using a PIWIS. The PIWIS used had software version 17.02. I don’t have a PIWIS operators manual and the technician who did the re-coding couldn’t remember the exact sequence…..but the routine starts something like this: a. “Special Function” b. “Sports Car Hand Over” c. F-12 d. F-12 e. F-8 “Start Function f. “Control Unit Search” From there, the technician said, the PIWIS started looking at each device in the car. The technician said that he made no inputs to the PIWIS concerning the Carrera instrument cluster or the radio. After the PIWIS ran through its program, the radio worked. As a wise man once said, “You can’t beat success”. The “Sports Car Hand Over” routine is the run on all Porsches to wake them up after being shipped to the dealers. FINAL THOUGHTS Except for the time it takes to modify the Boxster instrument cover, this is a two-hour project. Almost all of the effort is in opening up the car and then closing it at the end. I found I had two problems after the installation was complete. Fortunately, I had seen the instrument cluster in operation in the donor Carrera the day that I bought it. And later, I temporarily installed it in another Carrera to verify that it still worked and hadn’t been damaged in shipping back and forth to the instrument shop. I knew the problems were not associated with the Carrera instrument cluster. The first problem was that the oil pressure gage didn’t work. (The idiot light was OK.) After a lot of head scratching and part swapping, I found that I had pinched the new wire in TWO places under the shifter assembly. Rather than remove the entire length of new wire, I spliced in a new section to run under the shifter assembly. The importance of checking the continuity of the new wire after it is completely installed can’t be overstated. It’s an easily avoided problem if you pay attention to how you route the new wire under the shifter assembly. The second problem was that the voltmeter didn’t work. (I was batting 0 for 2!) After a lot of head scratching and part swapping, Loren pointed out that there might be something wrong in the area of the green connector. I unplugged the green connector and carefully reconnected it, making sure that the plug was fully seated before I closed the locking lever. That did the trick. For owners of Boxsters with the original instrument cluster, i.e., MY97 - MY00, with blue, white and black plugs, these are the pin positions: 1. Oil Pressure "idiot light" - white 6 (green / white wire [original]). 2. Oil Pressure Sensor (gage) - blue 9 [new wire]. Before you install the Carrera instrument cluster check to make sure there is a light bulb in the position for the "Convertable top indicator light". It is a 1.3 watt bulb, Part Number - 999.631.302.90.