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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Any Motive model will work, what you need is the correct adaptor for your car, witch would be either #1100 or 1109.
  2. OK, we have had issues with reflashed DME's. Window's 10 should not be the issue, I run Durametric Pro on two Windows 10 machines in the shop without any issue. As a next step, I would try reading the DME with a simple OBD II scanner, if you don't have one, many auto parts stores will lend you one. If that does not connect, you have an internal issue in the car.
  3. Question: Is the car running the factory DME software, or has it been reflashed?
  4. I would go back again and really look closely at the front engine mount, and both CV joints. These are common sources of your complaint.
  5. I would not use thread locker on these bolts as they are rather small and in a difficult position should they snap off. Instead, I would use a good quality anti seize compound and torque them to spec. We have not had any issue with them coming loose using this method, and they always came back out when needed down the road.
  6. The SAI works independently of the cats, so cat performance will not effect it in anyway. With your Durametric, you should be able to select both O2 sensors on each side, then graph their voltages in real time with the car running. If everything is correct, you should see a graph trace that looks like my first example; if one or more sensor is off line, it will be obvious.
  7. OK, couple of points: When you reprogrammed the DME, it has the same effect as clearing all codes, namely the car needs to run for some miles and drive cycles before the SAI will reset. On some of the early 986's, it could actually take a couple hundred miles before this happened, so do be surprised. As for the O2 sensor issue, Oxygen sensor voltages should be between 0.04v and 0.79v. The DME is looking at the relative voltages before and after the cats to confirm the car is in air/fuel spec. One sensor (the one behind the main cat) will produce a fairly steady voltage, while the one ahead of the cat will cycle in a sine wave like fashion if the cat is in good order:
  8. Yes, there are two, but you only need to replace the one that isn't working.
  9. Buy the best torque wrenches you can afford, and stop looking at them as an expense, but rather consider them an investment in maintaining your vehicles. Better equipment typically gives better accuracy as well and maintains the accuracy over time. Literally, "you gets what you pays for" when it comes to tools. Every fastener in your car has a torque spec range, which can be found in the OEM service manuals for the vehicle. Again, consider the manuals to be an investment in correctly maintaining your vehicle. Using most spec ranges mid values as your torque targets would keep you in good stead with either a +/- 2% or 4% tool.
  10. More likely they would be related to a low voltage issue; check your battery (load test it) and alternator for correct output.
  11. Let me start by saying we have had a lot of cars similar to yours through the shop, and this is no where near a common issue; and is obviously not even in the same league with losing an IMS bearing. Sometimes even hardened bolts have internal faults that cause them to shear off; Porsche does not require individual bolt testing on all fasteners on these engines. It is also possible that the original bolt was not torqued properly, or that the replacement was over torqued, but we will never know the answer to that question. As we do not know what kind of bolt your mechanic used, it is impossible to comment on what happened there. This time, insist that your mechanic obtains the correct part number bolt from Porsche, and installs it to the recommended torque setting. It is entirely possible that it will not happened again, but you have to start from a known position.
  12. My point is that it isn't necessary to delete the cats, remap the DME, or mess with O2 extenders, you just need to use the correct sensors and everything will probably be just fine..........
  13. From the OBD II diagnostics manual, read it and weep: You most likely have an incompatible O2 sensor, which is why it is always a good idea to go with the correct parts. Good luck defeating the system.....
  14. Couple of points: The resistance reading spec on the circuit you are working with is infinite resistance per the OEM service manuals. Instead of screwing around and trying jury rig a fix to defeat the system, why don't you just repair or replace the sensors if they are bad? They are not that expensive, and relatively easy to replace if they are actually bad. Your problem could be as simple as a connector or wiring issue.
  15. OK, you have a no start condition, what codes are you seeing, and what diagnostics have you run?
  16. It would be far easier to test it in the car using a Porsche scan tool. Why do you want to test it?
  17. Unfortunately, you will have to replace the entire pump, and I would suggest getting it from board sponsor Sunset Porsche ( 1-888-502-5927) rather than Pelican. Nearly all modern cars use plastic extensively on their fuel systems, simply because it is lighter than metal.
  18. That would be the EVAP system purge valve, which connects to the canister next to the gas filler tube.
  19. Fully charged, the battery should give you around 12.6-12.8V DC (open circuit, no load, engine off). With the engine at idle, you should see 13.5V-14.5V DC. The ideal method to test batteries is to run a load test, but that requires a piece of equipment to accomplish. Here, many auto parts stores will do them for free in hopes of selling you a replacement.
  20. I believe that is a 999-590-036-40-01C, which retail for about $1.30 each.
  21. The PDCC system may be low or have an air pocket in it. You need to get the vehicle scanned to really know what is going on.
  22. Porsche's suggested service intervals for the Tip could best be described as "optimistic". We prefer to do a fluid drain and filter in the 40-50K mile range simply because it is nearly impossible to change out all the fluid (most of the fluid is in the torque converter when the engine is not running), so you typically get less than half of it out during service. I would seriously consider servicing the transmission.
  23. Error codes are covered in the OBD II manual, which was a separate publication.
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