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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Normally, fuel delivery problems do not manifest themselves in this manner, but if you think you have a filter issue you can either run fuel pressure and delivery volume tests, or simply replace the filter itself. Usually, this is an intake air leak issue. Intake air leak issue in between the AFM and throttle body? Or broader like Intake manifold leak? I've once sprayed carb cleaner around the engine when it was idling to see for any change, nothing... It could be anywhere in the intake system; a loose connection, crack in a plastic vacuum line, an injector O-ring, vacuum accumulator, etc. You need to do a complete search as these things are often very hard to spot.
  2. PID's are something the car's control computer has programmed into them, not something that can be added to a phone app. If you cannot see the PID you are looking for, the computer is not programmed to display it, and you need to use an external tool (non contact pyrometer, thermistor, etc.) to get the reading.
  3. Water pumps are maintence items at around 40K miles unless they start to leak or make noise earlier. Surge tanks are less mileage dependent, some actually going the life of the car. By far, the biggest reason we see for early failures of either, and in particular the tanks, is the use of aftermarket parts. We have seen third party water pumps not make it 3K miles, and aftermarket tanks so poorly made that they would fail right out of the box, which is why we only use the factory units.
  4. I've seen this misinterpretation on several forums and it's a common mistake. The "B2=20" single micron format reads differently than the multi-micron formats listed for standard filters (values are reversed). What it actually means is: "B2=20" -> "95% efficiency @ 2 microns" "2" = micron size & "20" = filtration ratio If you don't believe me, listen to the folks at Cummins filtration: "A Beta Ratio may be given for a filter as B10=50. This simply means that the Beta Ratio for 10 microns equals a ration of 50." That's from a Cummins technical training flyer dedicated to filter beta ratios, there's even a quiz question about this (#2). Feel free to take a look... Cummins Filtration Training Flyer Welcome to RennTech :welcome: You are correct in your assessment of what the Beta Ratio implies; since that posting two years ago, we have found "beta ratio" to be completely misunderstood by most posters. From your attachment, the key on how it works is as follows: A Beta Ratio may be given for a filter as B10 = 50. (Depicted in this way on many filters) This simply means that the Beta Ratio for 10 micron equals a ration of 50. Now divide the ratio, in this case 50 into 100, ie. equals 2. Subtract the answer, in this case 2 from 100, the answer is 98. This filter is 98% efficient at removing 10 micron particles.
  5. Normally, fuel delivery problems do not manifest themselves in this manner, but if you think you have a filter issue you can either run fuel pressure and delivery volume tests, or simply replace the filter itself. Usually, this is an intake air leak issue.
  6. They are also very handy around the shop for checking what you can touch, and what you shouldn't until it cools off. Saved a lot of blisters already...... :eek:
  7. Non contact pyrometer or a kitchen temp probe are the DIY favorites. Thanks! I need to get one of those.. You can find one on Amazon for less than $20:
  8. You are supposed to put the system in "service mode" before jacking it up. Should be in the owners manual.
  9. Non contact pyrometer or a kitchen temp probe are the DIY favorites.
  10. Hope so...wife went 20 miles to work with no issues. Why would loose intake hoses cause the DME to transmission/PSM communication issues and give a key immobilizer error? Did the throttle go crazy adjusting to the scenario and the system just threw its hands in the air and gave up? The short answer is that they shouldn't be able to do that. The loose connectors should have allowed air into the intake after the MAF, which should confuse the Hell out of the DME and cause it to try to adjust the air fuel ratio to compensate, which is totally unrelated or connected to the transmission or PSM system.
  11. Everyone makes mistakes.........glad you got it sorted. :thumbup:
  12. Low battery/alternator voltages can cause the car to illuminate MIL lights, but usually does not make it throw codes. While checking both is a good idea, I would also suggest getting the full list of codes as well.
  13. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: As there seems to be a lot of communications issues going on here, I would suggest taking it to the dealer while the CPO is still in effect.
  14. No. The DME is linked to multiple systems such as the immobilizer/alarm computer by coding, and if the coding does not match, the vehicle will not run.
  15. Thank you JFP , maybe i will try first to take the head Bank2 out with engine in but not sure that i can remove from the head the exhaust manifold ! what you think about exhaust manifold The exhaust manifold's are always a pain because you end up with broken bolts.
  16. It would be easier, and quicker, to drop the engine. You can pull the heads on the V6 with the engine still in, but the V8 is much tighter.
  17. I would also take a look at the crank position sensor, which is famous for failing hot on the Boxster. When the CPS goes out, the DME thinks the engine is not turning and won't let the car fire.
  18. Yup. When something fails under vacuum, you usually get a loud noise and an implosion; when things fail under 100 psig of air pressure, you get loud noises followed by shrapnel.
  19. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: I would look at the internal motion sensor (33 - passenger compartment monitoring sensor) which is supposed to detect motion inside the car. We have seen this tripped by excessive sun heat and even an insect moving around inside the car.
  20. Yes, we have used that system. A couple of customers have noted that they experienced some droning a highway speeds however.
  21. The engine compartment fan is controlled by a temp sensor mounted near the intake manifold, or the coolant temp sensor itself, that triggers the fan when: "Switch-on conditions for engine compartment fan (this fan pulls air into the engine compartment) The engine compartment fan is switched on when the engine compartment temperature is > 176 degrees F or the coolant temperature is > 216 degrees F. After-running of engine compartment fan If the ignition is switched off and the engine compartment temperature is more than 140 degrees F, the DME control module remains in readiness for another 20 minutes. During this time, the engine compartment temperature is retrieved every 10 seconds. If the engine compartment temperature is > 185 degrees F , the engine compartment fan is switched on for 20 seconds. If the engine compartment temperature is still > 185 degrees F after this time, the fan remains on for a further 30 seconds."
  22. You might be surprised what you find in there, we actually found a dead bird once:
  23. Your idea is fine as well, only I have found it is easier for most DIY'ers to pull vacuum rather than go to pressure. Usually also results in fewer fatalities. :eek: With a little jury rigging, you can even use the Airlift vacuum filling tool to do this.
  24. There are four round openings on the bottom of the cooler, two in and out passages for the oil and water. The easiest way to test it is to plug one opening and pull a vacuum on the other for each loop, taking the vacuum down to around 24 inches or so, and then seeing if it holds for 10-15 min. A simple hand vacuum pump is all that is needed, along with some rubber plugs.
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