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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Try bypassing the switch and see what happens; if it starts fine, its the switch, if the problem remains. it is elsewhere.
  2. JFP in PA
    I would start by checking the wiper fuse in the fuse panel under the driver's side dash.
  3. JFP in PA
    By far the most common reason TPMS systems act up is dead or dying batteries in the sensors inside the wheels. While we have replaced literally hundreds of the wheel TPMS sensors because of this, we have never had to replace the control units in a Porsche. If you take the car to a well equipped shop, they can place a hand held diagnostic tool by each wheel and quickly determine if the wheel sensors are out. Takes about 5 min.
  4. JFP in PA
    I would budget for between $1000 and $1300, depending upon what parts need to be replaced, all in including alignment for the front struts.
  5. JFP in PA
    Good point!
  6. JFP in PA
    It is not that simple. The strut bearing swap requires removal of the strut assembly, compression of the spring, and then disassembly of the strut itself to get at the bearing. And after putting the car back together, you will need an alignment. If the strut cartridges themselves have a lot of miles on them, or show signs of leakage, etc.; now would be a good time to replace them as well.
  7. JFP in PA
    I think you will find that the valve opens much sooner than 65 inches of water. And yes, that is the valve on the cam cover on the other end of the long hose from the AOS. You still have something amiss in the sump evacuation system, as these are very low tension ring engines and not designed to work well unless there is slight vacuum in the cases. When your engine goes to positive pressure, the rings are no longer able to control the oil and you get the smoke. It should not be able to go from vacuum to pressure.
  8. JFP in PA
    It does sound like the strut bearing, which is a common problem.
  9. JFP in PA
    If I were you, I would be saving a sample of that oil to send out for analysis. And if there is substantial fuel intrusion into the oil, the next question becomes why?
  10. JFP in PA
    Pre oilers would not do anything to address abnormal cylinder liner scoring and wear as the oil would simply just wet the bearings and not the cylinder liners.
  11. JFP in PA
    That process should be fine, if you also change the filter.
  12. JFP in PA
    Year of the car would be useful.
  13. JFP in PA
    Unless the car is exceptionally cold, no, it is not necessary to start it. You should, however, plan on letting it drain completely.
  14. JFP in PA
    In general, yes. They tend to run hot, which does not help, and can be generally hard on lubricants, which is why product selection and maintenance timing is critical.
  15. JFP in PA
    Without starting another "oil war", usually because of the starting blend stocks quality and/or the additive package is breaking down prematurely.
  16. JFP in PA
    You could have the battery load tested, but if it is below 12V, it is probably toast.
  17. JFP in PA
    The responsibility for what you do with your tools in your shop rests with you, so that is an option. Shops regularly are approached about disabling all sorts of mandated systems, like TPMS, seat belts, air bags, etc.; and simply will not get involved because if someone get injured, the shop is the "deep pockets" in the liability equation.
  18. JFP in PA
    I would be willing to bet the sleeves are an iron alloy rather than steel, which would destroy the pistons in no time. There is another alternative in the LN Engineering "Nickies" aluminum allow liners; they are much stronger than the factory units, and do not have the issue of using dissimilar metals in an alloy engine case. Not cheap, but they do work.
  19. JFP in PA
    You are correct in your assumption, but many dealers or equipped independents won't do it for liability reasons (you would be disabling a mandated safety system and can be held liable for injuries resulting from doing so).
  20. JFP in PA
    Afraid I cannot agree. While switching from another oil to the DT40 would benefit from a pre flush to remove any remaining old oil, it is not absolutely necessary. Within on to two oil changes, any residual from the old oil would be removed by normal dilution and evacuation. We have a lot of customers using DT40, and more than 90% chose to go with a simple oil change over the pre flush method, without any noticeable effect either in the engine or their UOA analysis when compared to those that chose the pre flush method. Based upon that, if you want to go "belt & suspenders", do a pre flush; other wise just do a compete drain and refill. As for total ZDDP levels, we often find UOA's on DT40 after 5-6 K miles demonstrate a higher ZDDP level than virgin Mobil products right out of the bottle.
  21. JFP in PA
    With the multimeter still hooked up to the car, try pulling the fuses one at a time until you hit the one causing the draw.
  22. JFP in PA
    A good smoke test unit is upwards of $1.5K, so I would consider doing what Loren says and take it to a shop with one.
  23. JFP in PA
    Gibbs DT 40 is a 5W-40 oil with exceptional film strength and very high ZDDP levels to reduce further wear. You really do not want to run excessively heavy weight oils as they will effect how the VarioCam system function. Stick with the DT40.
  24. JFP in PA
    That could be difficult from Porsche, they do not make many of them available separately. Most are VW parts, so I would find a friendly VW parts person and buy them a six pack. You could also try the bone yards as well.
  25. JFP in PA
    That could be difficult from Porsche, they do not make many of them available separately. Most are VW parts, so I would find a friendly VW parts person and buy them a six pack. You could also try the bone yards as well.
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