Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,852
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    211

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. More likely they would be related to a low voltage issue; check your battery (load test it) and alternator for correct output.
  2. Let me start by saying we have had a lot of cars similar to yours through the shop, and this is no where near a common issue; and is obviously not even in the same league with losing an IMS bearing. Sometimes even hardened bolts have internal faults that cause them to shear off; Porsche does not require individual bolt testing on all fasteners on these engines. It is also possible that the original bolt was not torqued properly, or that the replacement was over torqued, but we will never know the answer to that question. As we do not know what kind of bolt your mechanic used, it is impossible to comment on what happened there. This time, insist that your mechanic obtains the correct part number bolt from Porsche, and installs it to the recommended torque setting. It is entirely possible that it will not happened again, but you have to start from a known position.
  3. My point is that it isn't necessary to delete the cats, remap the DME, or mess with O2 extenders, you just need to use the correct sensors and everything will probably be just fine..........
  4. From the OBD II diagnostics manual, read it and weep: You most likely have an incompatible O2 sensor, which is why it is always a good idea to go with the correct parts. Good luck defeating the system.....
  5. Couple of points: The resistance reading spec on the circuit you are working with is infinite resistance per the OEM service manuals. Instead of screwing around and trying jury rig a fix to defeat the system, why don't you just repair or replace the sensors if they are bad? They are not that expensive, and relatively easy to replace if they are actually bad. Your problem could be as simple as a connector or wiring issue.
  6. OK, you have a no start condition, what codes are you seeing, and what diagnostics have you run?
  7. It would be far easier to test it in the car using a Porsche scan tool. Why do you want to test it?
  8. Unfortunately, you will have to replace the entire pump, and I would suggest getting it from board sponsor Sunset Porsche ( 1-888-502-5927) rather than Pelican. Nearly all modern cars use plastic extensively on their fuel systems, simply because it is lighter than metal.
  9. That would be the EVAP system purge valve, which connects to the canister next to the gas filler tube.
  10. Fully charged, the battery should give you around 12.6-12.8V DC (open circuit, no load, engine off). With the engine at idle, you should see 13.5V-14.5V DC. The ideal method to test batteries is to run a load test, but that requires a piece of equipment to accomplish. Here, many auto parts stores will do them for free in hopes of selling you a replacement.
  11. I believe that is a 999-590-036-40-01C, which retail for about $1.30 each.
  12. The PDCC system may be low or have an air pocket in it. You need to get the vehicle scanned to really know what is going on.
  13. Porsche's suggested service intervals for the Tip could best be described as "optimistic". We prefer to do a fluid drain and filter in the 40-50K mile range simply because it is nearly impossible to change out all the fluid (most of the fluid is in the torque converter when the engine is not running), so you typically get less than half of it out during service. I would seriously consider servicing the transmission.
  14. Error codes are covered in the OBD II manual, which was a separate publication.
  15. Welcome to RennTech Just be aware that jumpering or otherwise disabling a Federally mandated safety equipment device can get you a failure at your annual state inspection in many states. These are also the kind of "cheap out" mods that liability lawyers love.
  16. Fehlercode 7014 Fehler: erwarteter Blocktitel nicht eingetroffen Translates to "Error: expected block title not arrived"
  17. Which could happen if there was no communications from one or more cam position sensor.
  18. By running either a compression or leak down test on each cylinder. If you have a cylinder head to water jacket leak, you can also detect it by analysis of the coolant for combustion byproducts.
  19. First of all, welcome to RennTech Lesson #1: Porsche uses unique diagnostic logic on their cars, which mean you need access to a Porsche specific scan tool (PST II, PIWIS, Durametric) to get accurate information. I'm not sure that the VDO, which is primarily configured as a VAG or VW scanner can accurately read your system. If the VDO read out is correct, you have four codes, two for cam position timing issue, two others for O2 sensor issues. I'm not sure why the VDO is saying otherwise, but my first move would be to get the car scanned with a Porsche system before you start chasing your tail needlessly.
  20. I would take a close look at the sensor retaining bracket, we see these things snapped off pretty regularly:
  21. DT40 brings both excellent film strength, and one of the highest levels of ZDDP that you can find in an over the counter full synthetic, as most of the larger oil compounders have bought into the low SAPS oil formulations that supposedly help with converter life (which is at best speculation) by significantly reducing (or even eliminating) ZDDP from their formulations. The new anti wear compounds, usually other metal salts such as titanium, simply do not offer the level of wear protection that ZDDP has done for decades. As for your question about which oil for a hot climate, I would use the 10W-40 full synthetic with the highest level of ZDDP I could find. 10W-X oils inherently have better film strengths than 5W-X oils, which will offer better component protection in the heat. Gibbs had a full synthetic 10W-40 oil that they promoted for "hot rods or restored muscle cars" that would be an excellent choice, as would some Motul offerings in the same weight range. I would also keep an eye out for diesel oils like Shell's Rotella (which is available as a 15W-40). Because diesel engines are very hard on oil, and do not carry catalytic converters, their oils still carry high levels of ZDDP.
  22. It is more complicated than you might imagine. First of all, there is a lubricant that is distributed throughout the system, and you must add the correct amount of the oil when you replace components (the factory service manual has a table listing how much for each component). Secondly, if you opened the system, you should replace the system's receiver dryer before evacuating and recharging it. A new one costs about $60, but will save you a ton of headaches.
  23. Glad to hear you are making progress. It is almost impossible to say why the old oil was so black. I would send them a sample of the DT40 when you drain it as it will give you an idea of where the engine is now, so you know where you stand going forward.
  24. It is not a single value, it is a curve because the system is variable, from 0 to 25 degrees depending upon the engine operating conditions.
  25. That is for the VarioCam which is a fixed change, yours is a VarioCam + system which has variable timing changes with engine RPM.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.