Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Just posted a docu. on my completed  02 996 M96 3.6 l engine rebuild for a gorgeous C4 cab barn find, I bough back in August 17 as roller with complete engine (Head&Case failure).

http://ow.ly/SjDf30fJkID

 It  is not about performance upgrades or how it should be done. Is about the process to get it done with very details on the critical steps for the hands-on engineer.

 

The car  drives fantastic now, and if it breaks I will be confidently enough to spend the needed money and time to order  on the new hard parts  (Nickies, rods, heads, etc.... For now I did not spend anything other than on a high-mileage used 997.1 donor engine  and a couple of 996 cases with paired pistons/rings from engines with other type of failures). 

 

I wish I had an alike docu. when I started - so I share it here, and hopefully  it is useful for someone who wants to bring a M96 996 3-chain engine back to life .  

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

Very good.

 

What do you think I should buy in relation to work shop repair manual(s) ?. 

 

I would so be interested in knowing the capacity and make of your sonic bath 

 

cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Tony Z- thanks for the comment! Let me give you some input on your questions:

2 hours ago, tony z said:

 

What do you think I should buy in relation to work shop repair manual(s) ?. 

I think it would be worth to get the workshop manual in German (Myself as a German  would say the translation to eg. English is sometimes misleading/requiring to cross-check/study more context), but if it comes down to dimensional specs, torque, tightening sequences  http://workshop-manuals.com was fully sufficient to me. 

 

 

 

1 hour ago, tony z said:

I would so be interested in knowing the capacity and make of your sonic bath 

It is a BT1800 cleaning system made by Omegasonics (18 Gallon / 1KW/ heated, variable frequency controller up to 40MHz )... https://omegasonics.com. Not produced anymore (got mine back in '08) , but the current model of comparable spec is BT1900. One of the best investments I ever made for my garage (originally acquired for my passion for collecting and restoring VMX motorcycles...). The M96 crank case was the very limit in terms  size, and I had to flip it over to complete the cleaning. Sonic cleaning  restored all parts and surfaces of lubrication channels pretty much to as close to original state as it can be. It is the level of cleanliness which, I think makes a big difference to success for such a project.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the comprehensive reply ......

 

I am now looking for advice in the forum wrt engine stands and whether I should buy a yoke or just use my traditional engine stand i.e. one that has 4 bolt fixing points. Am guessing that I will need to purchase the expensive yoke rather than run the risk of the engine crashing to the floor !!!

 

cheers

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, tony z said:

The Risk of crashing/impact damage actually scales physically with the potential energy to put the engine up on the stand :) Using a stand must not be safer, but the added convenience may certainly be worth the money...   

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You should change your pen name to Issac -:)

 

So where is the best place in the US to buy the parts I need for the rebuilt ?

 

cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

^+1 not just because they are the board sponsor but because their price and services are great. I've been buying parts from them for more than 10yrs. Last rebuild I had I got thousands dollars worth of engine parts from them, all shipped to my front door.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/6/2018 at 12:00 AM, tony z said:

Thanks for the comprehensive reply ......

 

I am now looking for advice in the forum wrt engine stands and whether I should buy a yoke or just use my traditional engine stand i.e. one that has 4 bolt fixing points. Am guessing that I will need to purchase the expensive yoke rather than run the risk of the engine crashing to the floor !!!

 

cheers

 

 

I used a standard engine stand (with U base) that I got from Summit Racing, attached with 4 bolts - honestly I was a little wary of this method myself, but seeing as I was about $4k into the project in parts, I decided I didn't really need another ($600) tool that I'd most likely use one time (I have no further plans to pull my engine). If you do some checking, it seems that many folks have put their M96 motors on stands without the yoke. While it clearly makes it more convenient to work on the engine and probably makes it safer for the crank case in question, it's not really necessary (at least it wasn't for me and several others). If I was a professional that was working on many motors (especially customers motors), I wouldn't hesitate to spend the $...For a one time use, I think the chances of your "engine crashing to the floor" are near 0...Good Luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By Garra671
      Tried googeleing it but couldn’t find what I was after.    Was curious if anyone knows what type of flat 6 the 986 boxster has?
       
      Is it a a true boxer engine? Or a horizontally opposed flat V?     True boxer meaning it has individual crank pins for each piston and is a true 180degree angle.    Thanks in advance 
    • By Michael hurta
      Hi - 2002 996: Scoured the lists but can't find this particular cluster problem anywhere.  In short, my salvage cluster shows a list of errors on start up but my original was fine....  Here's the details.  My current cluster shows an intermittent airbag failure warning on the led screen followed by the idiot light.  It usually occurs at start up, clears at the stalk and the idiot light remains on, but flickers on occasion.  My mechanic had ruled out everything he could related to the airbag warnings and since he didn't have a spare cluster, couldn't swap to test for that. I personally purchased a salvage cluster, removed the battery terminals, installed it and it came to life (I'm also having to buy replacement connector housings because mine disintegrated).  The problem is the info screen pretty much scrolled through a variety of issues like oil pressure feedback, temp feedback, fuel feedback, etc.  The oil pressure gage was also unresponsive.  I expected the odometer to be wrong, but didn't expect all the errors.  I also started the car and while it ran, it did run rough, sputtered a bit.  Do I have a bad salvaged cluster?  Does the cluster need to be programmed (beside the odometer)?  
    • By Kevin Bryck
      2002 996
       
      Welcome everyone to another installment highlighting the wonderful world of fragile Porsche parts!
       
      Have both 17" and 18" wheels and have recently lost the metal Center Cap logo medallion off of one wheel of each size.
      While removing the other center caps every remaining medallion fell right off in my hand.
      Metal medallion secured with a random dab of some type of adhesive.
       
      We have reached the end of lifespan of whatever adhesive the Center Cap supplier used to keep precious colored metal medallions stuck to those cheap plastic caps.
       
      Anyone know how to remove old adhesive?
      Anyone have any idea what adhesive to replace it with?
      Anyone know how much the Porsche/Piech families made selling replacement center caps last year?
       
      Remember when paying through the nose for your precious replacement Center Caps that the Porsche and Piech families are the 7th wealthiest oligarchs in the world per Wikipedia.
       
       



    • By stephen magee
      wires came out of my camshaft sensor and not sure what order they are
       
    • By Kevin Bryck
      Okay this is REALLY specific.
      The adjustable tension cable on the drivers side of my cabriolet disconnected at the top where it threads (8mm) into the top frame, not at the bottom where it snaps onto the ball.
      The is a larger diameter (10mm?) clean smooth painted hole where the cable needs to thread in, which leads to the presumption that there was a nut on the back side?
      Searched all over including removing driver's side rear 'door' panel and fishing around with a magnet but no loose nut found.
      Looks like getting to back side of this frame casting would entail a major disassembly of the cabriolet top frame?
       
      Also, what does this clip that goes over hydraulic cylinder do?
      Right side clips is in place about halfway down length of cylinder.
      Left side clip was down around the base of the shaft.
      Replacing it where there appears to be a shiny spot looks like it would interfere with the cabriolet top potentiometer arm.
      Right cable threaded into frame at top
      Right cable threaded into frame at top
      Missing cable location
      Smooth clean painted hole in top frame where 8mm cable end is supposed to thread in
      Left cable
      Left upper cable end with 8mm thread
      Clip question
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.