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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/04/2010 in Tutorials

  1. 31 points
    Does anybody has this problem with their horns? Basically, if I go over a bump, or stop on a slope, the horn will turn on. It is very annoying especially people in front of you thought your are hornking at them. Any advise, will be helpful. Thanks, -Nat
  2. 30 points
    This is a continuation from the front wheel bearing change. That was good practice for the rear of your car. Although i thought the rear was more difficult than the front but after i was done and found a couple of tricks that i will share, it might actually be easier. Having the right tools always make things go smoother. The B90-P2 tool i bought at http://www.samstagsales.com/Porsche.htm#axle Took only 3 days to get it. I was away at work for 4 days so the timing was perfect. Great service. Earlier this year people were wondering where to get the tools to take apart the electrical connectors. Well sams tag sales has all the Porsche tools needed. With the SIR TOOLS kit they sent me the catalog with all the speciality stuff. If you don't have an arsenal of basic tools i would recommend going to Sears. The prices are higher than a China Freight but Sears does treat their people well and nothing like supporting the american people right? Attached is a photo of a great tool set that has almost all that you need. It even comes with the 32mm large socket for the hub bolt. Aside from those tools you will need some larger wrenches. 21mm for the track arm. (Actually you don't have to take this apart...more later) But you do need some larger wrenches for the Sir Tools Kit. 1 and 1/16. Some allen key sockets. Best to get a set of 7 in metric. Sears also sells the Torx socket set too. You will need at least 2 torque wrenches. My trick for the 360 foot pound setting is later. Some plyers, punch, screwdriver set. Phillops, flat etc... Discount auto parts sells a paint can full of GunK degreaser. And has a tin to put the small bolts in. Great stuff. Don't drink it. If i forgot some i will post it further down. So lets get going... Have the car parked so you have lots of space to work around it. Back the car into the garage far enough so you have room to close the garage door if you need to make a run to the tool store. Don't ask me why i mention this! Set the parking brake, and remove the center cap. I pushed in an allen key and used a vice grip to pull it out. Pull hard. Get your long 4 foot bar, 32mm socket and loosen the axel bolt. You can even take it off all the way, it doesn't reall matter. Loosen the 5 lug bolts, 4 19mm and the third i hope you have the locking one. Jack the car up and put it up on stands. You will need to use the jack later and it just isn't safe to have your head under a car with just a hydraulic jack. Remove the wheel bolts and then the wheel, don't forget to use the factory supplied tool to help with the removal and installation of the wheel.
  3. 24 points
    First off - thanks to everyone who has been down this road before me for providing tips and suggestions and troubleshooting regarding this common problem. I have been dealing with a key that would stay all the way to the right upon starting meaning that the A/C, heated seats and some other items would not function. My solution had been to simply start the car and then just move the key back one notch to the left and everything worked fine. So if others have that issue, my original solution will work but obviously the problem remains and at some point you may end up stranded if the ignition switch completely fails. I stumbled upon some of the other threads and found that this needed fixing and I opted to replace just the switch as opposed to upgrading to the new complete unit that Porsche has moved to. This procedure is not new to the board, but I thought a step by step with pictures may be useful to those looking for an inexpensive solution. It cost me $12.11 including tax. If your ignition mechanism has been changed to the newer revised unit the ignition switch is a different part number but I assume the steps would be the same. The part for just the switch - no longer available through Porsche since they are only selling the entire $150 unit - is 4A0905849B. The switch alone is available mail order through Pelican for $10, Autohausaz.com was +/- $8.75, Ebay has them all over the map from $15-30. All of these options will work but require shipping charges and delivery time. I was hoping for a local option since I had the time to do it today. Here is what I found in Houston - a local Audi dealer had one in stock for $35, while VW had to order it (for more than $35 believe it or not). Doing a search online at parts stores using my Porsche got me nowhere so I opted to use an older Audi - in my case a 1997 Audi A8 since the part is the same. I found Autozone had one for >$40, OReilly came up blank but I did not call to check, a specialty imports place had one for $27 and then I found it in stock at NAPA for $11.19 + tax. Since NAPA seems to have stores all over the place I suggest looking there first if you don't feel like mail order. The complete part number at NAPA was ATM 4A0905849B using the 1997 Audi A8 as the vehicle. Here is a picture of the NAPA part (left) alongside the original part which I removed from my 996 cab - note the AUDI rings on the old part. Equipment needed: Small flat screwdriver - eyeglass or electronics size Philips screwdriver Torx driver 10mm wrench rubber pry tool Cold beer to celebrate 1) Disconnect the battery - I just undid the negative with a 10mm wrench 2) OPTIONAL but makes the job easier than the shop manual in my opinion. Remove the side air vent by pulling the headlight switch towards you and inserting a small blade screwdriver up from the six o'clock position. You should notice a spring like resistance which will release the knob and allow it to pull towards you. Here is a picture of the back of the knob showing the release mechanism Once the knob is off remove the three torx screws – one in the headlight control recess and two on the side After the screws are out take a rubber pry tool (or be careful with a flat screwdriver) and remove the vent housing - it will pull towards you with a little effort but not much. Once off I pulled it out far enough to gain access but left the headlight control connected because I was lazy and saw no need to unhook it. I forgot to take a picture of this part but it should be self explanatory. You will now see a philips screw directly in the back of the air vent - remove. 3) Crawl under the dash and remove the center piece (A) of the air vent - there is not much room and you will not miss it. The piece can be nudged towards the side to release on one end and then the other. Since you removed the screw from above you should be able to remove the middle and side piece now out the bottom. 4) Unplug switch by pulling directly off the back - do not unhook the purple tabs just pull the entire unit back. Make sure to pull this off BEFORE unscrewing and removing the switch as the screws holding the switch in make this much easier than trying to get a hand in there - believe me I jumped ahead and then resorted to screwing it back in. 5) Unscrew two set screws - one on the bottom on one on the opposite side. The screws are coated with red paint that may need to be chipped through with your screwdriver before you can get the screw to grab. I unscrewed the bottom screw while under the dash and then from the seat I reached under and could view the top screw through the side vent area and unscrewed it. Do not remove the screws just undo them far enough to remove the ignition switch. Bottom screw noted in this picture Top screw as viewed from side vent opening - this can also be done from underneath but the small space and clutch pedal against my head led me to look for easier access 6) Now that the screws are loose you should be able to pull the ignition switch out and replace it with the new one. Screw in the set screws, hook the harness back to it and get ready for a cold beer - not quite but almost 7) Slide out from under the foot well, hook up the battery and see if all is well. You may as well check before reattaching the rest. If the car starts as it should you will notice a nice smooth ignition with the slight spring back to the left just after ignition. Hook up the air vents, screw everything back together and push the headlight knob back in place 8) Crack open a cold beer and smile - you just saved a lot of money. This is one of the simplest "repair" DIY out there - it took me probably less than 20 minutes including removing the side vent and I took my time since I had never done it before. If I need to replace it again - which is likely - it will be even quicker. You can always replace the entire ignition module with the new and improved unit at around $150 I think - and alot more effort - but for $12 and 20 minutes I am hoping I can get some decent life out of this switch and then just replace it again in a few years if I need to. Like I said before - this is not a new DIY but I am hopeful that these pictures will be helpful. Thanks again to all of those who provided the prior posts.
  4. 14 points
    I like pictures when I read a DIY, so I made these up to demonstrate what you are in for when you want to change your plugs. Use these pictures in conjunction with the writeup by ebaker...
  5. 12 points
    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 1 set 996 352 949 03 Front Brake Pads - Porsche (Pagid "S" Pads - Dark Blue - T5104SRS14) 1 set 996 351 088 01 Front Vibration Dampers for Brake Pads (recommended) 2 ea 996 351 959 00 Front Pad Repair Kit (consisting of 2 bolts, springs and securing clips) 2 sets 996 612 365 00 Front and Rear Wear Sensors (if needed) 1 set 996 352 939 03 Rear Brake Pads - Porsche (Pagid "S" Pads - Dark Blue - T5105SRS14) 1 set 964 352 096 01 28 mm Rear Vibration Dampers for Brake Pads (recommended) 1 set 964 352 096 00 30 mm Rear Vibration Dampers for Brake Pads (recommended) 2 ea 996 352 959 00 Rear Pad Repair Kit (consisting of 2 bolts, springs and securing clips) Tools you will need: Jack 19 mm socket for wheel bolts Brake Parts Cleaner (do not use other cleaners) Needle Nose Pliers Punch (for driving the pins out) Hammer or soft mallet Caliper Spreader or large Water Pump Pliers Note: The brake pads must be replaced (both sets of pads per axle) if the brake pad warning indicator lights up, but no later than when there is a residual pad thickness of 2 mm. If brake pad wear is indicated by the warning light, the warning contact sensor (sender including wire and plug connection) must also be replaced. Replacing the warning contact sensor can be avoided by replacing the brake pads no later than when the pad thickness is 2.5 mm. Warning contact sensors with a worn wire core must be replaced. However, if only the plastic part of the warning contact is worn, replacement is not necessary. Also, do not disassemble the caliper when changing the vibration dampers (or painting the calipers) as Porsche does not sell inner seal kits. Jack up the vehicle at the lift points provided and remove the a wheel (you will need to do this for each wheel). Visually inspect the brake pads for wear. The wear limit is reached when the pad has a residual thickness of 2 mm (or less). Front Pad Replacement Remove the retainer (arrow) and extract the retainer pin inwards. Pull out the warning contact wire on the brake caliper and remove the warning contacts from the brake pad plates. Remove brake pads with a brake pad puller or use the water pump Pliers to spread the pads. (Photos are courtesy of Greg Heumann) Important Notes: Pull out brake pads together with the vibration dampers. If this is not possible (depending on wear of the brake pads), use a spatula to detach the vibration dampers from the brake pad plate before removing the pads. In both cases, first set back the brake pads as far as possible with the piston resetting fixture. If necessary, first remove some brake fluid by suction from the brake fluid reservoir. If necessary, carefully push back the piston to its original position. Fit new vibration dampers in the pistons. Do this by removing protective film from the vibration dampers before installation. Insert the brake pads. Caution: The pad backing plates (rear side of the brake pads) must not be greased. Note: If you are using Pagid (or some other 3rd party pads) you will likely have to drill the pad for the wear sensors. Just look at the old pads and drill the sensor holes in the same location. Fit new expanding spring, new retaining pin and new retainer (retaining bracket). These parts are available as a repair set and must be 'renewed' each time the pads are changed. Insert the warning contact wire and warning contacts. Firmly press the brake pedal several times with the vehicle stationary so that the brake pads assume their fit in accordance with the operating state. Next, check and, if necessary, correct the brake fluid level. Bedding in the brake pads New brake pads require a bedding-in period of approximately 125 miles. Not until then do they achieve their best friction and wear coefficient. During this period, the brakes should be subjected to full stress only in emergencies when traveling at high speed. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Rear Pad Replacement Remove the retainer (arrow) and extract the retainer pin inwards. Pull out the warning contact wire on the brake caliper and remove the warning contacts from the brake pad plates. Remove brake pads with a brake pad puller or use the Water pump Pliers to spread the pads. Important Notes: Pull out brake pads together with the vibration dampers. If this is not possible (depending on wear of the brake pads), use a spatula to detach the vibration dampers from the brake pad plate before removing the pads. In both cases, first set back the brake pads as far as possible with the piston resetting fixture. If necessary, first remove some brake fluid by suction from the brake fluid reservoir. If necessary, carefully push back the piston to its original position. Fit new vibration dampers in the pistons. There are 2 sizes of vibration dampers. The lower piston is 28 mm (smaller) and upper piston is 30 mm (larger). Be sure you get them in the right places. As you install them you will need to remove the protective film from the vibration dampers. Insert the brake pads. Note: The pad backing plates (rear side of the brake pads) must not be greased. Fit new expanding spring, new retaining pin and new retainer (retaining bracket). These parts are available as a repair set and must be 'renewed' each time the pads are changed. Insert the warning contact wire and warning contacts. Firmly press the brake pedal several times with the vehicle stationary so that the brake pads assume their fit in accordance with the operating state. Finally, check and, if necessary, correct the brake fluid level. Bedding in the brake pads New brake pads require a bedding-in period of approximately 125 miles. Not until then do they achieve their best friction and wear coefficient. During this period, the brakes should be subjected to full stress only in emergencies when traveling at high speed.
  6. 11 points
    One of the problems that I see with many 996/986/997/987 owners complaining about is a lumpy or erratic idle and sometimes sluggish acceleration. I have a quick cure for this problem. In fact, this cure will work for any car that has a throttle body. The issue is that over time a sludgy gunk will build up in the throttle body where the throttle butterfly opens and closes. This gunk will eventually change the airflow characteristics of the gap between the butterfly and the throttlebody which will cause the erratic idle. In addition, this gunk can cause the butterfly the stick as it opens which will effect acceleration. The car's DME will compensate for this buildup over time, but if it gets too thick, then the "Throttle Adaption" will reach its limit, and will throw a code. Many times people think that it is the MAF that is bad, when it is just a dirty throttle body. Notice that the butterfly valve is slightly cracked open. This is for the idle airflow, and that crack can get clogged because of the gunk buildup. The solution is to remove the air cleaner box for access to the throttle body, and simply clean the throttle body with spray carburetor cleaner. Open the butterfly valve with your hand, and wipe out all of the gunk on the backside of the valve, and the inside of the throttle body. You will see a dark brown ring inside the throttle body. This is the buildup you want to remove. Take a rag, wet it with carburetor cleaner, and wipe out the gunk. Be sure to get the edge and the back side of the butterfly valve as well. You will know when you are done because the surfaces that you are cleaning are polished, and easy to see if there is stuff left on them. Here is a picture of what your throttle body should look like after it is cleaned. Notice how shinny the inside is. Don't worry if you spray too much in the engine, when you fire the engine up, all of that stuff will burn off in the combustion chamber. Where does the gunk come from? It is residue from the crankcase vent opening that is right there behind the butterfly. The reason it is there is because there is high vacuum there that will suck the crankcase oil vapors back into the combustion process of the car. Over time oil solids will accumulate there and will form a sticky lip around the opening. This cleaning should be part of your 30,000 mile maintenance as a minimum. However if you have never had your throttle body cleaned, try doing this weekend. You will be amazed at how much better your car runs.
  7. 11 points
    I have modified the rear storage compartment to handle two (2) 5" subs and two (2) 4" speakers. I will be using Focal speakers, the 5" 13KS subs and a pair or 4" 100CA. The Focal 5" subs are the best sounding subs that I've ever heard. I have spent weeks cutting and shaping this compartment and its finally ready to make the master mold. I will be selling these Rear Speaker/Sub Boxes in the very near future if anyone is interested. They will have a gelcoat finish and I'll make a few colors. I have attached a couple of photo's of the prototype so you can see what it looks like.
  8. 10 points
    EDIT: Fixed text boxes to see text better. This is an AOS DIY that walks you through the process of replacing the AOS. This is for a 2000 996 C2 Cab, six speed. I tried to be as thorough as I could in writing the DIY. If there is something left out or lesson learned from your personal experience with the AOS and or this DIY, please let me know so I can incorporate it into the document. Regards, Ken How do you eat an elephant? -- One bite at a time! Air Oil Separator Replacement.pdf
  9. 10 points
    I had heard this urban legend that you can repair door dings and dents by rubbing dry ice over the dent and then heating it with a hair dryer or heat gun. It seemed simple enough, so I decided to try it on the wife's urban assault vehicle which has its fair share of door dings. I went over to our neighborhood grocery store and got 2 pounds of dry ice for $3. Here is the what the test door looked like before the test. Essentially the process is to take some dry ice (while wearing gloves, as it is very, very cold), and simply run the dry ice back and forth over the dent until the metal has cooled to the temperature of dry ice. This shrinks the sheet metal, and pulls in the dent. Next blow hot air onto the dented area using a hair drier or a heat gun making sure that you don't heat the sheet metal to over 195 ~ 200 degrees as you can damage the paint by heating any more than that. This will expand the metal and further smooth the dent. After you have the sheet metal hot, then run the dry ice over the dent again until the metal is cooled to the temperature of the dry ice again. It takes about 3-6 times of this hot-cold-hot-cold routine to get complete results, but you will start to see the dent go away after the 1st cycle. Repeat this process until the dent is gone to your satisfaction. Your end result should look like this: This trick works even better with aluminum panels, does not scratch, discolor or harm the paint because the face of the dry ice on the sheet metal has a thin layer of Carbon Dioxide gas that is boiling off from the frozen dry ice. I next tried this technique on the 996 with a small ding on the left rear quarter panel, and it worked perfectly. So $3 worth of dry ice and about 30 minutes saved me several hundred dollars for a paintless dent repair guy to do essentially the same job.
  10. 10 points
    I am posting some notes as to my process in removing the rear half axles from my 2000 Boxster S, and replacing the CV Joint “Boots”, both inner and outer. I hope this will be of use to folks, and I want to acknowledge the good assistance from those on this Board who helped along the way: Note: For tools, you will need a large torque wrench. I bought mine from Harbor Freight for $79.00. I’d highly recommend not only that wrench, but a good set of metric wrenches and sockets, a NAPA CV Boot clamp tool, and a good set of snap ring or “circlip” pliers. I'd also suggest a ball joint separator tool. I’ll leave it to you, but when you order your new boots and clamps, you might want to order new CV Joint end caps, new snap rings/circlips, new hex head bolts for the CV Joints, and definitely new axle nuts, and perhaps a few extra nyloc nuts for the ball joints discussed below. Here is the process I followed: 1. Remove Porsche emblem hub center pieces using a 90 degree bent awl, or similar tool, and loosen, but don’t remove, the 32mm axle nut on each rear wheel axle. 2. Block the front wheels and raise the rear of the car from the middle rear jacking point approved by PCA and Bentleys, just rear of the engine oil sump, where the two bolt heads fastening the under-pan to the frame support appear. 3. Place a sturdy jack stand under each rear jacking point, using a rubber pad or jack stand pad (from Harbor Freight or elsewhere) to protect the car, leaving room to access the forward bolt from the diagonal cross arms on the underside, and gently lower the car onto the stands. 4. Remove each rear wheel and remove each 32mm axle nut, and slide wheels under each side of car as an added “catastrophic” precaution in case the car should somehow fall from the jack stands or should a jack stand collapse. 5. Remove diagonal underside cross arms and under-pan. 6. Remove bolts from each side of sway bar and swing out of way. 7. Remove six hex-head bolts from each inner CV Joint half-axle, and let each axle rest down on the exhaust pipes. Note: Use a nine inch ratchet extension and a good 8mm hex head socket fitting, loosening one bolt at a time, and using the parking brake for each bolt to keep the wheel hub from rotating. The 9 inch extension will help to achieve access to each bolt with the CV Joint Boot kept out of the way. Release the brake to rotate to the next bolt, then reset the brake. 8. Remove each nut from toe-in/track arm at the side of each wheel carrier, then separate ball joint with a ball joint separator tool (Harbor Freight) and, using hand pressure only on the track arm, push the ball joint pin out of the wheel carrier. 9. Remove nut and bolt from the trailing arm to the middle of the control arm, and slide the forked end up the control arm to allow movement 10. Remove nut from control arm ball joint and separate ball joint from control arm. You may have to hold the ball joint pin firmly in place with a torx/star or similar fitting into the top of the pin. 11. Mark the position of the control arm eccentric bolt on the inner mounting point on suspension frame, then loosen, but do not remove the eccentric bolt or the nut on the opposite side. 12. The control arm should now fall freely out of the wheel carrier 13. Pull each wheel carrier out a few inches and place a brace of wood (I used a 1.5 inch square piece, about 13 to 16 inches long) behind the heavy structure of the wheel carrier, squeezed between that carrier and the frame bracket of the control arm. Do this one wheel at a time, not together. The purpose is to hold the wheel carrier outward and firmly in place while you remove the axle from the wheel carrier hub as explained below. 14. Now that you have enough clearance with the wood braces, pound the axle out of the wheel carrier by using a good heavy hammer, perhaps 5 pound one, and buffering the blow to the axle with a small block of wood, perhaps 1.5 inches square and a few inches long. The axle will pop right out. 15. Now remove the wood brace spacer (the 13 to 16 inch one), but realize you must now grab each wheel carrier, pull the carrier out, even farther than the wood spacer accomplished, and remove the axle from the car. A good firm pull is required, and remain confident that neither the brake lines nor the strut will be harmed by the process. 16. Place each axle being worked on in a good vice or on a bench where it can be confined. Tap off the inner end cap, remove the steel snap ring (actually called a “circlip”) with special needle pliers, tap off the CV Joint, in all cases using a piece of wood as a buffer, and then remove the boot clamps and both the inner and outer boots, and clean out all old grease and ascertain that no contamination exists. Then in proper sequence slide the boot clamps and new boots back onto the axle, and repack with CV Boot grease. Be careful not to force grease into the bolt holes of the six hex-head bolts; otherwise, the grease may contaminate any loctite or similar product used when you “re-torque” the bolts at the transmission flange. Also, if you disassemble the inner CV Joint, remember that the ball hub has a camfered inner end that must face toward the axle after you re-grease it and install it into the ball cage, then into the CV Joint. 17. Reassemble in reverse. Torque all fittings. Use loctite where appropriate. You may need to use a jack under the control arm when re-fastening the control arm ball joint nut. When re-tightening the eccentric bolts at the control arm, be sure the markings remain lined up. 18. Only torque the axle nut to 100 foot pounds while on the jack, and even then only carefully. After replacing the wheels and lowering the car, bring the torque to 340 foot pounds, drive the car a few miles and recheck the torque again. Then replace the emblem caps. I hope this helps someone. I’m posting it only because I had some difficulty in my own process, and felt some of the detail here, though perhaps different than offered in other posts, might be useful. The attached drawing will be of assistance in identifying parts involved. Follow all factory torque specs and other mandatory procedures. You may want to check rear wheel alignment when done as well. Good luck all. And use care to be safe. Marking eccentric bolt before loosening: Drawing of axle and control arm/ball joint components: Wheel carrier with axle pushed out: Greasing the CV Joints--the outer joint does not come apart, only the inner: Transmission flange for six hex-head bolts: Working on the removed axle: Removing circlip: Showing CV Joint End Cap to be removed for grease packing:
  11. 9 points
    The symptoms for this include CEL and Long Cranking times when starting after filling up. Part Required 948 110 202 01 (75 from dealer, 45 from Sunset) Some new Twist locks for the trim panels, since they have a mind of their own. You will need to remove the throttle design cover pull up it comes right off. then you will need to remove the 4 t 30 torx screws on the drivers side coil cover. then that cover will pull up although it is a pain, you can wiggle it out. Use a large flat blade screw driver or a penny to remove the 1/4 twist locks that hold down the drivers side engine compartment cover (the big black one) there should be 4 1/4 ttwists Then remove the rearblack panel, 1 1/4 twist in the center and 2 on the pass side of it. Remove the panel the purge valve is in the front of the engine between the head and the intake on the drivers side. It looks like a black cylinder little bit bigger then a film canister with a hose on one end to the front and the back is a hard black plastic line that runs along the intake and comes up in the back and goes to a rubber hose on the fire wall. Un plug the valve and push it off its bracket, undo the clamp with a pair of plairs and pull the hose off (sometimes you need gently grab the hose with the pliars and twist to loosen it up from the valve, you can damage the valve just not the hose). In the rear you will need to do the same, the rear hose never comes off easy I think they glue it on, use you pliers to crush the plastic line where the hose is over it. once it is crushed enough it will come off with needle nose pliers. Undo the injector electrical connections (wire clip on each) and pull them off, also free the ratcheting clip on the 1 inch flexy pipe crossing over the top. These 2 steps make removing the pipe a lot less violent. I did not and I would do the next time (hope not) I would cut the pipe after you have sprung it out of the gold clips along the intake, it make it easier to remove The pipe has some sleeving which is re-used, see when they are before you remove and put them back the same The hard part is the removal, putting it back is a piece of cake., Dont forget to hook a durametric to clear the code. I filled up for the first time this morning, perfect start afterwards. I need to give credit for this to a certain dealer tech from Miami (Firehawk) without whose help I would not have been brave enough to do this myself.
  12. 9 points
    by drpaulmarsh, Ryan Hanson & Hans Wiederrich Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Front Strut Removal and Installation: 1. Loosen lug nuts slightly and block rear wheels. 2. Remove the shroud on the trunk with a torx screwdriver. 3. Mark the location of the three (3) 13 mm bolts on the top of the trunk that holds the strut to the body with a ink pen. 4. Jack up the car and remove the wheels. 5. Loosen the 18 mm sway bar bolt that is on the bottom of the strut (counter with open-end wrench). 6. Take off the caliper from the hub. Don’t let it fall as it may stretch and break the brake line. (*Porsche recommends replacing the two caliper bolts and not re-using them) 7. Remove the nut on the strut spindle assembly, the abs wires and brake lines. 8. Remove the three (3) 13 mm bolts from the top of the trunk that holds the strut to the body. Peek down in and note the installed position of the spring strut mount. The arrow markings must point to the outer side of the vehicle (A). The shock absorber piston rod is thereby shifted outwards. 9. Now with a friend, push down the arm and gently pull towards you. The strut will be in the wheel well now. 10. This is the tricky part; my friend and I covered the strut top w/ a shop towel and carefully pushed down the strut and pulled it towards me to pull it out of the wheel well. Be careful not to hit/scratch the lip of your fender. (If it doesn’t go easily, you may want to try using a spring compressor to shorten it a ½ and inch or so.) 11. Once cleared you can wiggle or slide out the strut from the spindle assembly. Front strut disassembly and assembly: 1. Apply spring compressors to both sides and compress the spring a ½ inch or so. This may be difficult to do as the front springs are conical shaped, but will ensure that the nut on top is easily removed. 2. Remove the 21 mm nut on top of the strut. (item 1 in picture below) Counter the piston rod when loosening the nut. 3. Pay attention to how it comes apart. 4. Put all the necessary parts on the new strut (You will be re-using the old rubber bump stop so don’t throw them out) and assemble back wards. 5. The new springs are shorter so the assembly will not have as much tension. 6. Tighten the fastening nut to 59 ftlb. 7. Install the new strut in the reverse as described above and use the sheet below for torque values: Cross member/side member (one component) Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Cross member/side member to body M14 x 1.5 160 (118) (Front and rear) Corner plate to side member M10 x 1.5 65 (48) Corner plate to body M12 x 1.5 100 (74) Corner plate to body M14 x 1.5 160 (118) (With diagonal arm and side member) Diagonal brace Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Cross member/side member to body M14 x 1.5 160 (118) Diagonal brace to body and side member M12 x 1.5 100 (74) Axle strut (control arm) Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Axle strut to side member M12 x 1.5 120 (89) Axle strut to diagonal arm M14 x 1.5 160 (118) Axle strut (ball joint) to wheel carrier M12x1.5 75 (56) (also applies to GT3 RS) Camber basic setting to two-part axle strut M8 27 (20) - 911 GT3 /911 GT3 RS Spring strut/wheel carrier Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Spring strut to wheel carrier (stabiliser mount) - 911 Carrera 2 M12 x 1.5 85 (63) (shock-absorber tube clamp) - 911 Carrera 4/ M12 x 1.5 85 (63) 911 GT3 / 911 GT3 RS Spring seat clamp - 911 Carrera 4 M6 10 (7.5) Spring strut mount to body M8 33 (24) - 911 GT3 / 911 GT3 RS M8 35 (26) Spring strut mount to piston rod M14 x 1.5 80 (59) - 911 GT3 / 911 GT3 RS M14 x 1.5 80 (59) Stabiliser mating bearing to spring strut (lock nut) - 911 GT3M52 x 1.5 50 (37) Height adjustment to spring strut (lock nut) - 911 GT3/911 GT3 RS M52 x 1.5 50 (37) Brake cover plate to wheel carrier M6 10 (7.5) Brake disc to wheel hub M6 10 (7.5) Brake caliper to wheel carrier M12 x 1.5 85 (63)* Speed sensor to wheel carrier M6 10 (7.5) Combination coupling to wheel carrier M6 10 (7.5) Retainer plate for wheel bearing to wheel carrier M8 37 (27) Wheel hub to wheel carrier M22 x 1.5 460 (340.4) * Replace screws at front and rear axle whenever they have been removed Front-axle final drive/drive shaft (911 Carrera 4) Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Front-axle drive shaft to transmission M8 39 (29) Front-axle drive shaft to wheel hub M22 x 1.5 460 (340.4) Rear front-axle transmission support to transmission bearing MlO 65 (48) Rear front-axle transmission support to body MI0 65 (48) Front front-axle transmission support to front-axle cross member MI0 65 (48) Stud to front-axle cross member M8 20 (15) Front-axle transmission support at front to trans mission MI0 65 (48) Tank strap to body M8 23 (17) Stabiliser Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Stabilizer to side member MI0 x 1.5 65 (48) Stabilizer mount to stabiliser MI0 46 (34) Stabiliser mount to shock absorber pipe and wheel carrier - 911 Carrera 2M12 x 1.5 85 (63) Stabiliser mount to spring strut MI0 46 (34) Rear Strut removal: 1. Climb in the back seat of the car remove the panel behind the rear seat. It has no clips. 2. Mark the location of the three (3) 15mm bolts on the top of the trunk that holds the strut to the body with a ink pen. 3. Loosen lug nuts slightly and block front wheels. 4. Lift rear of car from cross member bar under motor and put jack stands in rear jack points. (***Make sure you have a low profile jack so that after you install the struts and you go to let it down it will fit under the engine. To help with this I approached the cross member bar from a 45 degree angle near the rear portion of the wheel well.) 5. Use spring compressor to compress the strut and give you some wiggle room to move it up and down later. 6. Disconnect both sides of the sway bar - 17 mm open end and 15 mm nut the bar should swing easy on the mounts. 7. Climb back inside the car and remove the three (3) 15 mm nuts in the car to drop the strut. 8. Remove the long 18 mm bolt connecting the strut to the arm. (You may have to push up and down on the hub, while you turn the screw left to get it out…) 9. Use two people a pry bar, screwdriver, and/or rubber hammer to force the shock off its mount. (You may have to push up and down on the hub again here too.) 10. Once the strut is dropped you can remove it easily it to prepare the new one. Rear strut disassembly and assembly: 1. Apply spring compressors to both sides and compress the spring a ½ inch or so. 2. Remove the nut on top of the strut M12 x 1.5 (item 1 in picture below). Support the piston rod from turning when loosening the nut with a 7 mm open wrench. 3. The rest is similar to preparing the front, but this time you will use the new yellow bump stops. Rear Strut Install: 1. Install the strut back in the housing and don't tighten up everything up top just yet. 2. Place a jack under the shock to compress it so you can put it on the arm. Its kind of hard. 3. You need to be a little strong. Once on the arm the bolt wont align properly. 4. Use a screwdriver or hex tool with the rounded end to lift up the shock just a little on the arm so you and your friend can push the bolt through. 5. Try turning the bolt as you feed it through so that the threads don’t catch. This was by far the hardest part of the entire install and took 3 guys to line it up and push it through. 6. Once through, install the new strut in the reverse as described above and use the sheet below for torque values: Carrier side section/cross member Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Carrier side section to body M12 x 1.5 110 (81.5) Studs for carrier side section to body (screw-in M12 x 1.5 46 (34) torque only) Cross member at rear to carrier side section M12 x 1.5 110 (81.5) Cross member at front to carrier side section MIa x 1.5 65 (48) Brake hose holder to carrier side section M6 10 (7.5) Diagonal brace to body MIa x 1.5 65 (48) Diagonal brace to cross member M12 x 1.5 110 (81.5) Diagonal brace to carrier side section (collar nut) M10x1.5 23 (17) Axle strut Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Control arm 2 (toe control arm) to wheel carrier M12 x 1.5 75 (56) To cross member (toe eccentric) M12 x 1.5 100 (74) Lower axle strut to carrier side section (camber eccentric) M12 x 1.5 100 (74) To wheel carrier M12 x 1.5 75 (56) Camber basic setting on two-part lower axle strut M8 27 (20) - 911 GT3 RS Diagonal arm to cross arm M14 x 1.5 160 (118) To carrier side section M14 x 1.5 180 (133) Control arm 3 and control arm 4 (upper control arms) M12 x 1.5 110 (81.5) To carrier side section M12 x 1.5 110 (81.5) To wheel carrier Wheel carrier Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Wheel bearing to wheel carrier (lid) M8 37 (27) Speed sensor to wheel carrier M6 10 (7.5) Tightening torques for rear axle Rear wheel suspension, drive shafts 911 Carrera (996) Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Brake cover plate to wheel carrier M6 10 (7.5) Brake disc to wheel hub M6 10 (7.5) Brake caliper to wheel carrier M12 x 1.5 85 (63)* Holder for combination wire to wheel carrier M6 10 (7.5) *Replace screws at front and rear axle whenever they have been removed. Spring strut Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Spring strut to body - 911 Carrera M10 46 (34) - 911 G13 / 911 G13 RS M10/10. 46 (34)* Spring strut to wheel carrier M12 x 1.5 100 (74) Shock absorber to mount (piston rod) - 911 Carrera M12 x 1.5 58 (43) - 911 G13 / 911 G13 RS M12 x 1.5 60 (44) Stabiliser mating bearing to spring strut (lock nut) - 911 G13 / 911 G13 RS M52 x 1.5 50 (37) Height adjustment to spring strut (lock nut) - 911 G13 / 911 G13 RS M52 x 1.5 50 (37) * 911 GT3 with roll-over bar: Carry out a test drive after performing assembly work on the roll-over bar/spring strut support bolts on the body and then retighten the M10 fastening nuts (three per side) to the same torque. Drive shaft Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Drive shaft to transmission M10 81 (60) Drive shaft to wheel hub M22 x 1.5 460 (340) Stabiliser Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Stabiliser to carrier side section M8 23 (17) Stabiliser mount to stabiliser and spring strut - 911 Carrera M10 46 (34) - 911 G13 / 911 G13 RS M10/10. 65 (48) Stabiliser mating bearing to spring strut (lock nut) - 911 G13 / 911 G13 RS M52 x 1.5 50 (37) Ancillary equipment mounts Rear wheel suspension, drive shafts Location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Engine mount to body M8 23 (17) Engine carrier to engine - 911 Carrera MIO 46 (34) - 911 GB MIO 65 (48) Engine mount to engine carrier MI2 x 1.5 85 (63) Transmission support to body MIO x 1.5 65 (48) Stud for transmission support to body MIO 20 (15) Longitudinal support to body MIO 65 (48) Mount to longitudinal support MIO 65 (48) Plug-in couplings for clutch and steering hydraulics location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Steering pressure line Wrench size 15 mm 30 (22) Steering return line Wrench size 19 mm 40 (30) Clutch line Wrench size 15 mm 30 (22) Wheel fastening location Thread Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.) Wheel to wheel hub MI4 x 1.5 130 (96)* * Thinly grease thread, shank and under head (between screw head bearing surface and spherical cap ring) of the wheel bolts with Optimoly TA (aluminium paste). Do not grease bearing surface ofthe spherical cap facing the wheel. If heavily contaminated, clean bolts first with a lint-free cloth.
  13. 8 points
    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 1 ea 996 110 131 52 Air Filter or equal (BMC or K&N Filter) Tools you will need: 13 mm socket or wrench Regular screwdriver Phillips screwdriver Remove hexagon-head bolt M6 x 34. (13 mm wrench) Loosen the hose clamp on the throttle body and remove the connection of the sucking jet pumps (not present on early cars). Pull connecting plug off the mass air flow sensor by squeezing the connector clips. Then unclip the cable on the air cleaner housing. Subsequently unclip the oil filler snorkel. Remove the whole air cleaner housing out of the engine compartment. Unscrew the 7 (phillips) fastening screws on the air cleaner housing and remove the upper part of the air cleaner. Subsequently remove the cleaner element. Clean air cleaner housing. Insert new filter element and replace the upper part of the air cleaner housing (BMC filter shown). Tighten the 7 fastening screws. Place the air cleaner housing in the engine compartment again. Make sure that the rubber mount of the air cleaner housing is still seated in the body. Tighten the air cleaner housing with the fastening screw M6 x 34, the screw is tightened with 7.5 ft-lb. Clip in oil filler neck again.. Reconnect the intake pipes on the throttle body. Retighten the hose clamp. Subsequently insert the connection for the sucking jet pump (again, if present) and mount the spring band clamp. Fit the connecting cable and clip into the holder on the air cleaner. Push the connecting plug on the mass air flow sensor.
  14. 7 points
    Filter location underneath the rear seat behind the driver side Replacing the filter: Recommended to do this job while the fuel tank is almost empty Fuel tank located underneath back seat Gain access to fuel filter need to flip back seat and look under the carpet Pull the seat buckle below the seat and flip the seat bottom Remove seat mount hinge, note you need special socket to fit the nuts Find below a round cut made on carpet, open Find round stainless steel caver with four screws, open it Then you will see the filter Use special tools to open the lock ring or use big flat screw driver with light hummer to remove the ring, slowly slowly, hit from different angles and corners to distribute the hummer pressure, Then disconnect fuel hose and electrical connection from top, be careful fuel house might be under pressure Note: petrol smells very strong and harmful, do this job in good ventilated area Note: there is a house connected between fuel filter on the left side of the fuel tank and fuel bump at the right side of fuel tank. Go to the right side of rear seat and flip the seat Find carpet cut same as left seat Remove seat mount hinge, note you need special socket to fit the nuts Open the stainless steel cover Find the plastic cover same as fuel filter housing Open the lock ring Then disconnect electrical connection and fuel house from top of plastic cover Be careful fuel might be under pressure Pull the plastic cover up, look down you will find a house that going to the filter at left side and some other house going to fuel bump, pull the house which is going to filter side several times back and forth to make sure it is the correct house going to filter side Then go to filter side on the left and remove the filter and note the house going to the right side, and pull to make sure that this is the right house going to left side After you are sure of the right hose Go back to right side are and tight the house with a string (or any available robe) before pulling the house this string will help you pull back the new house for the new filter back to the right side, Unplug the house go to left side and slowly pull the filter and un plug the other house and wire connection at the bottom of the filter side and make sure to tight the house and wire connection with strings to make sure not to fall down inside the tank bottom, Note: much petrol will comes out from filter After removing old fuel filter bring the new filter and first thing to do is to tight the string we all ready have from the old filter house side and insert in the fuel tank and pull slowly to right side Then connect back house and wire connection of the filter. Go to right side pull the string until you catch the new filter house and connect back to the plastic cover and put back all parts. Go to right side and put back every thing once an again.
  15. 7 points
    This is a short DIY about installing white LED daytime running lights on your 996. But first, thanks to Loren and all the other members who have posted DIY articles. Lately I have used them to do the PSE cutout mod, removed those ugly airbag stickers from my visors and changed the plugs at 30K. Got those lousy Bosch plugs out, installed NGKs and it runs like a different car. Smoother and more power. I found some white LED bars on Ebay that looked like they would fit just right in the air intakes. Search for item 390103978391 on Ebay, they go for about $50. In order to install the wiring you will have to remove the front bumper cover. I followed Loren's DIY on installing the third radiator. Also, you will have to remove the liner in the trunk area to get the wires through the bulkhead in back of the bumper. Here is a picture of the lights installed. I used double sided tape to mount them to the separator bar. Here the bumper cover is removed and I am running the wires up to the bulkhead. There is a round rubber plug just below and to the side of the latch that you can feed the wires through to the inside of the trunk compartment. Testing the lights before buttoning everything up. Everything back together. The only thing I have not completed is to find a source of switched 12 volts in the trunk area. If anyone out there knows of an easy way to pick it up I would appreciate hearing from you. Otherwise I will run the wire under the dash and pick up switched 12 there.
  16. 7 points
    Happy New Year everyone! It was cold and foggy here in Sacramento so I decided to do something about the yellowish headlights on my 03 996 C4S. I got the car about 3 weeks ago and it looks great but the headlights were somewhat yellowish. Looking at them closely, I noticed that there were very fine cracks and oxidation on the surface and decided to try to polish them. I found a "headlight lens restoration system" by 3M for $20 at Autozone. I removed the headlights and cleaned them well. Then I used a 500 grit disc (dry) on a drill to remove heavier scratches: The headlight looked completely ruined after sanding them with the 500 grit sand paper disc :o Then I used the 800 grit disc (dry) also on a drill to remove the scratches left by the previous disc: The headlight was not looking any better yet. The next step was to use a 3000 grit Trizact disc but I decided to wetsand using 2000 grit paper before: Then I used the 3000 grit disc (wet) on a drill. The disc is part of a thin foam pad so it stayed wet and worked nicely: The it was time to use the polishing compound on a foam pad. Just a little went a long way: This is the passenger's side headlight after polishing: And the driver's side headlight after polishing: I didn't take any photos before polishing them but I compared them after polishing only one and the difference was amazing. It removed all the yellowish tint from them. I'm going to buy some UV block for plastic tomorrow and see how long they stay clear and shinny. It took me about an hour and a half to do both headlights. So, if your headlights are not as clear as you would like, don't be afraid to sand them ;) Oscar
  17. 5 points
    These rubber "accordians" can crack over time. Fortunately the rubber piece is only around $60, and can be replaced easily. You'll need to set aside about an hour and a half if you haven't done this before. Tools needed: Flat-bladed screwdriver 4mm allen wrench Ratchet with short extension and 10mm socket Parts needed: The bellows Two plastic expanding fasteners (might come with the bellows) First, deploy your spoiler manually, and shut off the ingnition. No need to disconnect the battery. You will see, along the rear edge, four caps, as seen below. These pry out easily with your fingers or with a flat bladed screwdriver. No paint to worry about, just try not to mar the plastic. With the caps off you can access the 4mm allen head bolts: I found these to be a bit tight due to exposure to the elements, but I was able to get them off with an allen key. A long allen socket would work better. Once the bolts are out, the top tray (painted part) of the spoiler can be slid toward the rear and off. Put it somewhere where it won't be scratched. Now you can see the fasteners holding the top of the bellows to the spoiler. There are two explanding plastic fasteners, one on each corner, and several sliding hooks. I destroyed my plastic fasteners since my new bellows came with new ones. Just nipped them off with wire cutters. With the two plastic fasteners off you can disengage the hooks and detach the top of the bellows by sliding it to the right, and down. The top edge of the bellows is actually sandwiched between a long metal strip and the spoiler. The metal strip has the hooks that go through pre-cut holes in the bellows. View from below: With top of bellows detached: With the top of the bellows detached, open the engine lid. You will see several circular clips holding the bottom of the bellows to the engine lid: There is one under the fan, so you will have to detach the fan. Just three 10mm bolts. Just let it hang by the cable, out of your way. Be careful not to scratch your paint while removing the clips. In my case, the clips themselves had scratched the paint a bit. Fortunately this is one of the body areas that receives only a "rough" paint job from the factory anyway. Save those clips. It is not necessary to replace them. With the clips removed, you can pull the bellows out. As with the top, there is another frame piece running the length of the bottom of the bellows. This sandwiches the bottom of the bellows to the engine lid. The bellows has pre-cut holes for the nubs on the metal strip: Lay your old bellows alongside you new one, so that you can see how the top and bottom frame strips fit. Reassembly: Transfer your frame pieces to your new bellows. Then attach bottom of bellows to engine lid with the circular clips. Push those numbs through and get those clips up as tight as possible. The idea is to clamp onto the lower bellows edge. Re-attach the fan. Close engine lid Make sure the top frame piece hooks are threaded through the top of the bellows, push up through the corresponding holes in the spoiler, and slide to the left to secure. Make sure all of the hooks are engaged and snug. Then insert and secure the two plastic expanding fasteners in the corners. This step will confirm that you have the bellows and the spoiler snug and aligned properly. Now grab your painted spoiler top, and look under it to make sure the locking tabs are lined up. Push down, and slide toward the front of the car to lock the tabs. The top and bottom of the spoiler should mate very well. If you feel gaps around any edges, check and adjust. Finally, secure the top of the spoiler with the four allen screws. Put the plastic caps on, and manually raise and lower the spoiler to make sure you haven't left any tools in there...
  18. 4 points
    Thanks again to all of those contributors that helped me while I went through this upgrade. This topic appears to be a common one and one that doesn't appear to have a complete solution for contending with the MOST bus. Hopefully my DIY will help owners with the MOST bus successfully upgrade their factory stereo system as I have with mine. Also note that the wiring and process described should work with any system (Kenwood, Alpine, etc.), not just the AVIC D3 as the signal requirements and factory harness wiring is detailed here. Also note that this upgrade also covers the iPod interface, Sirius satellite radio and Bluetooth module install. Good luck! 03_04_Boxster_AVIC_D3_Radio_Upgrade.pdf
  19. 4 points
    you may be surprised where it's REALLY coming from. My lack of heat problem had me finally pull the heater core and there was the surprise... EDIT: Gang I've had to make some changes to my webserver that has affected the link above. Since this has been one of the more active topics on my site I have attached a PDF of the page. The photos were poor to begin with so being so small on the PDF is not as big as a disadvantage as you may think. Regardless of the photos my uber super write up is all there, send me a PM if you need any help. 986 Heater Flap Repair.pdf 986 Heater Flap Repair.pdf
  20. 4 points
    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 1 ea 996 107 225 52 (or 996 107 225 53) Oil Filter (with large O-ring) 1 ea 999 707 465 40 Small O-ring 1 ea 900 123 010 20 Copper Sealing Ring - Oil Tank 1 ea 900 123 118 30 Aluminum Sealing Ring - Engine 9 ea 996 106 665 55 Mobil 1 0W-40 or equal (approx. 8.5 liters (MY04 GT3 9.0 liters)) Approved Oils as of June 2004 The list is now very long (for worldwide coverage). Here is a short list of popular oils (US/Canada): Castrol Syntec 5W-50 5W-50 ncp G Castrol Syntec 5W-40 5W-40 ncp GL Mobil 1 0W-40 ncp GL (factory fill) Mobil 1 5W-40 ncp GL Mobil 1 5W-50 ncp GL Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 0W-40 ncp GL Texaco Havoline Synthetic 5W-40 ncp GL Note: ncp oils are synthetic (or "non-conventional processing") oils. GL oils have good light running properties because of their light low-temperature viscosity as well as a high level of temperature stability. G rated oils can be used as non-seasonal oil, but do not have the same light running properties as "GL" oils. Tools you will need: Tire ramps or jack 15 mm socket for crankcase drain 27 mm wrench and 19 mm socket for oil tank drain Oil filter wrench (p/n 000 721 920 40) (tool 9204 about $7 to $22 at your dealer) image 9 plus quart oil catch pan Torque wrench (optional) Oil should be changed when the engine has reached normal operating temperature. CAUTION - oil will be hot, take adequate precautions to avoid being burned. Always dispose of the waste oil in accordance with local legal requirements. Use ramps or jack up the vehicle at the points provided. Remove the oil drain screw and collect the engine oil in a disposal container (at least 9 quarts). Wait about 20 minutes for the old oil to drain. Then clean the oil drain screw and screw it back in with a new aluminium sealing ring. Tightening torque is 52 ft-lb. Remove the oil tank drain screw (19 mm) while holding the nut above it with another (27 mm) wrench (this avoids twisting the tank itself). Collect the engine oil in a disposal container. Wait about 20 minutes for the old oil to drain. Then clean the oil tank drain screw and screw it back in with a new sealing ring. Tightening torque is 44 ft-lb. Remove the oil filter using the oil filter wrench. Pull off and dispose of the old oil filter element. Clean the oil filter housing thoroughly inside and outside and replace the two O-rings. The new O-rings will go on easier if a light amount of oil is on them. Do not put them on with a screwdriver or other sharp object as a sharp object will damage the O-ring. Remove the remaining quantity of oil from the oil filter housing by suction. Install the new filter element. Lightly apply oil to the housing threads. Install oil filter housing and tighten to 19 ft-lb. Fill with engine oil. The oil change quantity is approx. 8.5 liters (MY04 GT3 9.0 liters) after a draining time of approx. 20 minutes.
  21. 3 points
    Symptom: CEL light comes on and when investigated, P0492 code (or similar) is detected. The following code description is observed in Durametric SW: Secondary Air Injection System Bank 2 - Value below lower limit value, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and causing a DTC lightWhat is wrong:From my experience and from others' posts, this is usually caused by the failure of the secondary air pump that is located inside engine compartment (the two horn like structures on either side of the bay, near the firewall).The failure is apparently caused by the valve getting dirty and failing to open, which causes filter foam (you will see once you open this sucker out), to back up into the pump itself, causing fan blades to break off and plug up the hose even more.Once the fan blades are broken, the pump will need replacement.NOTE: If you choose to only replace the pump, please understand the cause of failure, since it may be likely you will have another failure. I did not think this would be the case until I removed the valve with hose and cleaned out a bunch of debris from there....so if you are servicing pump, you will do yourself a lot of good by cleaning the valve/hose at same time.Anyways, DIY is using pics, each successively numbered with instructions.Hope this helps someone make the repair.Plan on about 2-3 hours of work for this repair (1 pump), at nice leisurely pace. The other pump repair will be very similar, except pump part number will be different and location of mounts/screws will be on passenger side.Have fun. *** EDIT*** - I was gone for a while and all my pics had been removed from my tutorials. Regardless how it happened, here they are.
  22. 3 points
    I decided to remove the rear seats out of my 2003 C4S and eventually build a shelf with doors, i.e. the RS kit (?) that was sold at one time. I would sure like to get my hands on the doors shown in this pix. Anyway, the purpose of this "mod" is to utilize the tear drop opening where the shoulder strap of the seat belt was anchored. My first thought was to just install a piece of painted sheet metal behind the opening, then I came up with the idea to make the opening an interior light. A friend of mine gave me a 12" square of 1/8" white plexi. It turns out that the backside of the opening isn't flat so I had to first cut out the shape on the band saw with about 3/8" over lap on the bottom of the opening and a fitted edge to the top of the opening. Then I heated the plastic so I could warp the plexi piece for fitment to the backside of the opening. Not slam dunk, it's trial and error to get the shape to lay down on the back side of the plastic piece. Naturally if you had a mirrored shaped block of wood you could just heat the plexi and drape it over your fixture. Also remember there's a left and right so it would take two fixtures. So I just heated and bent the plastic to make a pretty good fit. Note you have to be careful not to dent the plastic when it's hot with pliers or a Crescent wrench. I used a ViseGrip with wide jaws that are covered in leather. I think if you had 1/16" plexi it would work better than my 1/8", I might add that I used a red Magic Marker to fine tune the fit. It seems to me that the black Magic Marker really gets into the material and it's hard to remove even with lacquer thinner. Once I had the fit, I sanded the shiny plexi with 1200 wet or dry sand paper to remove the gloss. Then used black RTV silicone and glued the lens to the back of the Porsche upholstery. I bought a strip of white LED's that has a self adhesive back. I just stuck the strips directly to the car body. I haven't wired the lights up yet, however I did light them up, I'm very pleased with the look and the light. I'm thinking I might wire the LED's into theinterior door lights so I don't have to worry about a separate switch and leaving the lights on. If you wanted to get weird you can buy LED's that can change colors. Remotes are available to rotate the color of preference if that's your thing. FYI: You can get these LED strips on-line from superbrightled.com - P/N NFLS-NW30X3-WHT - Natural White. These LED's run on 12 volts so you don't need power pack, just 12 Volts to the strips. The strips come 19" long with 2 leads, I cut the strips down to 6 LED's per side,then soldered + and - leads to the other strip. The strips are polarity sensitive, but they're well marked.
  23. 3 points
    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Images are for LHD cars - RHD cars will be on the opposite side. Parts you will need: 1 ea 996 571 219 03 Pollen Filter (Charcoal activated filter) Tools you will need: T25 Torx drive Remove T25 Torx screw that holds the panel cover in place (passenger side front trunk). Remove the panel cover. Remove the particle filter upwards and out of the housing guide. Insert a new particle filter into the housing guide. Check that the filter is correctly fitted and in the correct installation position. Replace the panel cover. Tighten T25 Torx screw that holds the panel cover in place.
  24. 2 points
    I hope that others find this information helpful. Upgrading Two-Way Power Seats.pdf
  25. 2 points
    I was looking for things to do to the CTT I own, and decided it will need a refresh of the door sill aluminum plates. Have one of these on each door, plus rear bumper skid pad and rear trunk like bottom edge. So had to repeat this on every plate I wanted to apply this to. Simple process: 1. Buy equipment - aluminum polish kit - Harbor Freight Tools - under $5 including tax (believe it was $3.99) - masking tape for taping off areas you do not want to touch (about $2) - general cleaner/degreaser to cleaning of the sills after job is done ( about $4) - corded drill (any will do, but cord drill will not discharge forcing you to wait - any self respecting man already has one) 2. Prep car - mask off each plate that you want to restore - Use exacto or other device to trim along plates for perfect coverage 3. Do the job - Apply polish compound to buffer - Slowly work one section at a time, pressing medium light, to medium pressure (slightly harder than pressure applied when buffing a car surface - remember, you are polishing scratches out) - continue to work small section at a time, for about 30 minutes total per plate - continue to apply more polish compound onto buffer when noticing compound not getting getting applied onto plates anymore when buffing - Wipe plate off to verify you achieved proper sheen and scratch removal (if not, continue, focusing on areas/scratches to remove) - When done, wipe clean and clean out entire sill area (polish compound peels off and gets thrown around the area - vacuum is best way to remove) 4. Repeat on every door sill plate you want this done to. 5. Inspect and enjoy the result of work
  26. 2 points
    Getting into a 996 when the Battery is Flat. The conventional route seems to be opening the front trunk lid with the emergency wire and then applying jump start leads to the battery. This certainly works, but sometimes the wire is hard to find and with the wheel in place it is difficult to get behind the front wheel arch liner. In my view, it is a great deal easier to get in from the back, with the emergency release wire, and then to apply power to the jump start points in the engine compartment. Proceed as follows:- Tools: A short length of coat hanger wire with a small hook at one end and a narrow timber or plastic wedge. Method: There is an emergency engine cover release wire under the left back light cluster. You need to fish this wire out and when it is pulled the engine cover will be released. Insert the wedge between the underside of the light cluster and the top of the rear fender. Make the gap wide enough to insert the wire hook. Push the hook in about 4 to 6 inches. Turn the wire slightly and withdraw it pulling the caught emergency wire out. Pull the wire to release the engine cover lid. At this point the alarm will go off if there is sufficient current in the system. Locate the jump start points. The earth -ve (black jump wire) is near the engine cover catch and doubles as an air box fixing. The +ve (red jump wire) is just above the power steering pump within a plastic box. Attach both the jump wires, placing the red +ve wire first. The system is now energised and the central locking can be used and the alarm switched off. If you have never seen this wire, it is a good idea to locate it so you know where it is. It's easy to remove the rear light cluster. There is a single set screw with a 10mm hex head visible when the engine cover is raised. Options for the front emergency wire: Although the front trunk wire is more difficult to find it's worth looking for it before you need to do so in a hurry. I have extended my front release wire with a short length of nylon cord, bringing it out to a more accessible location. There are a number of options available for this, including running it to the side flasher unit.
  27. 2 points
    Here is the situation: When I went to close my convertible top, it wouldn't do so. I get out of the car and find that one side of the metal convertible deck lid wouldn't open. I find that there is a very small little latch that the hydraulic system unlocks before the deck lid slides back out of the way so the top can close: (This is the picture of the properly connected latch.) It is a little hard to see the latch with the top folded down in the way. To get to it, you have to lift UP the little rubber/plastic flap, and use a flashlight to look in there and you'll see the gold metal rod disconnected from the latch: To unlock the latch, simply rotate the metal latch one direction or the other and the latch will "unlock". Then press the Close Top button and the top will now close. I suspect that the lid could also lock with the top in the up position, but I suspect that it might be easier to get to the latch in this sitation. Here is a picture of the latch with the rod disconnected (the way I found mine): The missing little metal clip that is the culprit here, was nowhere to be found. The helpful people at Sunset Imports were able to figure out the part number (999-166-05401) and it cost $.39. This could be the least expensive porsche part ever! Happy touring, navin
  28. 2 points
    Well I did it! I successfully modified a Blaupunkt iPod connector cable to work with my Becker CDR-220 stereo. I also installed a factory rear speaker kit at the same time. Suddenly I find myself in audio bliss! Time for another long road trip! ***Important Note: This cable plugs into the same port as the factory CD-changer (C3). Both cannot be attached at the same time without additional modifications not described here.*** At first glance it looks like the Blaupunkt and Becker auxiliary input connectors are identical, but don’t let this same plug shape and location fool you. These two manufacturers have different pin assignments. Bus In is still Bus In and Bus Out is still Bus Out, but the 12 volt and ground leads are switched up. Here is a short comparison of the pinouts for the C3 (auxiliary) port on the rear of either brand’s stereo unit: Pin # Blaupunkt Becker 13 Bus - In Bus - In 14 Bus - Out Bus - Out 15 Steady +12V (Unknown) 16 Switched +12V (Unknown) 17 Bus - Ground Steady +12V 18 AF - Ground Bus - Ground 19 Line In - Left Aux Left 20 Line In - Right Aux Right The C3 port is designed to allow attachment of 6-disc CD changers, Mini-Disc players, and cellular phones. It also happens to work for iPods. For iPod use soe of these pins like 15, 16, 19 & 20 simply aren’t needed. The *KEY* difference between the Blaupunkt and Becker pinouts is #17. If one where to take the cable as it is sold and attach it to a Becker CDR-220 and an iPod, you would have one fried iPod battery! Here is what I did to change the cabling around so that this cable would allow both playback as well as charging support for an iPod: Tools Needed: Insulating Electrical Tape, Wire Strippers, & a Knife. Figure #1: View of the unmodified cable. 1.) Trim back the shrink tubing used to protect the wires near the 8-pin mini ISO plug (the blue plug) end. 2.) Snip the wires to pins #15 (blue wire) and 16 (red wire) near to the plug. Snip the black wire leading to pin #17 as well but closer to where the shrink tubing was. Figure #2: Cut cables 3.) Strip the ends of the blue and black wires and splice them together. This will result in the blue wire now corresponding to pin #17 instead of 15. Figure #3: Spliced black and blue wires 4.) Trim down an inch or so of the black outer tubing to expose more of the multicolored wiring. Now strip the black wire that is no longer attached to a pin and splice it with the zinc wiring wrapped around the exterior of the six small wires. This should route the second ground line present in the Blaupunkt setup through the single ground wire used by Becker. Figure #4: Spliced ground wires 5.) Wrap all of the exposed wiring with black insulating electrical tape making sure to keep the spliced wires connected. Do not skimp on the tape here because these wires will be bent and pulled on each time you remove your stereo from the console. Figure #5: All taped up 6.) (OPTIONAL) Take a black sharpy to that ugly white iPod dock connector and black it out. My boxster doesn’t have any white in its interior so I felt this was a must. Also cut off the yellow video cable. Unless you have some sort of LCD display installed this cable is useless. Tape off the end to make it neat. Figure #6: Video cable removed and taped up 7.) Remove the head unit from the dash using the factory stereo removal keys. (Not included with your car, but easy and cheap to get through a dealer. Mine came with my rear speaker kit.) 8.) Remove the leather and carpeting pieces to the right of the upper console. Grabbing the far edge and giving a swift tug to remove either of these pieces. 9.) Snake the blue plug end of the cable up through the exposed side of the console to where the rest of the stereo cables are. 10.) Attach this cable to the rest of the stereo cables either by more electrical tape or zip-ties to reduce the risk of them getting pinched. 11.) Plug in the cable to the C3 port on the top right of the stereo facing the rear. 12.) Reinstall the head unit and trim pieces being careful not to pinch the wiring in the process. 13.) Enable auxiliary input on the stereo if it isn’t already. Turn the radio on, hold down the TP button until “Becker 1” is displayed. Turn tuning knob until “AUX OFF” is displayed. Then arrow down and change it to “AUX ON” and turn the radio off. 14.) Plug in your iPod and enjoy. Figure #7: All done! ***NOTE this cable does not work with the latest iPhone 3G and iPod Touch 2nd generation. My iPod Video 60GB and early iTouch work just fine. With the Scosche passPORT charging adapter this cable will charge an iPhone 3G, but it will not send audio to the stereo. iPod Nano 4th Generation will play audio through this cable, but the Scosche adapter is required for charging.*** One more word of caution, this cable uses a 12 volt charging circuit that is always on. It is conceivable that leaving the iPod attached with the car shut off could drain your battery. The iPod will interrupt the circuit when it no longer needs to charge eliminating the issue more or less. This modification of the cable is really quite simple, but if you don’t think you can do it contact me. I have perfected the modifying of these cables so that no splicing and soldering is needed. An already modified cable from me with detailed installation instructions costs $50 including domestic shipping. Payments can be arranged by PayPal, but please contact me via e-mail first at j w a e n {at} l m i (dot) net Enjoy! -Jeremy :renntech:
  29. 2 points
    Hello Here's how to change wiper blades inexpensively buy just the rubber scraper at a store specializing in meter disassemble the brush to remove the 2 plastic caps on the ends of the brush with a small screwdriver prying to lift up the ends paw stuck rubber levering pull the rubber to change up the tab again to close the rubber blocks that give tips and here the brand new wipers Cayann friendly
  30. 2 points
    Options and opinions about installing the V1 itself have been discussed elsewhere so all I will say there is that I opted to use a fuse tap and ran it from the right side fuse box (I used the right headlight fuse (17 IIRC)). The main problem I had with installing the display was where to put it as it seems like every square inch of the dash is covered in buttons or something you need to see. After poking around and looking I found that the "non-smokers pocket" in front of the gear selector appeared to be a perfect location. The pocket is larger at the top than the bottom. Sizing it up I found that with holes cut on the front and back the display could slide in and be supported by the remaining pocket material as the wider part at the top matched the depth of the display nearly perfectly. I did have to grind away part of the display's case for the best fit though. I also trimmed a hole out on the side for the cable to plug in: Ultimately I had to extend the cable hole downward as well as add a hole on the front (first picture) that allows the cable to run in, runs back out the side, and then plugs it. It also gives somewhere for the excess cable to go. The next problem I ran into was getting the console apart. In a thread about changing out the trim pieces some one gave me the tricks to get the gear selector off (need to twist the ring at the bottom of the knob to unlock it and then pull the locking button outward (towards the PCM)) and center vents off. What wasn't included in those directions was that the PCM needed to come out as well and the LED that lights up the pocket (though mine never has...) is annoying (more later). The trick to the vents (also the side vents too) is that there are little tabs you can see inside when you move the slats around. Those need to be pried inwards (towards the center of the vent) to make it easier to pop the vent out. Where I ran into issues was that I initially could only see the two next to the PCM (pulling a side vent was much easier and let me get a better idea of what I was dealing with). There is also a fifth one at the top which I never could see the tab for while it was installed. Additionally there is a cable plugged into the bottom of the vents (it just pulls right off). The method that worked best for me was a small steel bar (an awl should do) I had to pry the tabs with. I started with the bottom (since I could get my fingers under the bottom of the vent to pull) and worked around while pulling. Here are some pictures (right center vent) with the tabs circled which will hopefully make it clearer: After that the PCM had to be removed so that the rear of the trim could be lifted out. I managed to do without disconnecting the PCM itself, but it was challenging due to how the routed the wire for the pocket LED in a way that gives almost no slack. I had to use a pick to de-route that wire which gave me just enough slack to get the trim over the selector post. Here is the center console with the trim removed. The red circle is the annoyingly routed LED. The green circle is a hole that was already there that I routed the display's cable through. The extra hole I mentioned cutting into the pocket matches up with this hole. Routing the cable out of the center console was a bit challenging as there is no space at all in there. When I ended up doing was lifting the rest of the center console. To do this you need to unbolt it (two torx screws under the pocket) and just pull up on the leather bolsters forward of the grab handles. This let me run the cable towards the rear of the car, around a bit, and then forward again along the outside of the console (for reference the left side of the pic is the gear selector unit): And here is how the cable comes out of the center console at the dash: There is actually a lot of empty space behind the trim piece above the glove box, so that's where I chose to run it. I suggest that unlike me you wait to reinstall the vent until after the trim is back on . You can get it back on, but it would be easier otherwise. On my cheap basic trim there is a trough behind the sliver bit at the top that was a perfect fit for the cable to run in: And finally here it is put back together and working: Since I couldn't find anything about installing the remote display in a 958 I hope this helps/inspires others.
  31. 2 points
    My Porsche is a 1999 996 C2 Cabriolet. The convertible top compartment lid (the “lid”) is attached to the body via two hinges which each have two arms. The front arm on the left hinge was broken, so I replaced the entire hinge, as replacement arms are not available. Here is the step by step process of how I did it :(I had a bunch of great photos with this article, but for some reason they did not copy and paste with the article) (I'm what you might call "format impaired".) : Tools needed: Flat Head Screw Driver 10mm Box Wrench T-30 Torx Bit 13mm Socket Short Socket Extension Electrical Tape Parts Needed: Replacement Hinge Part #996-561-907-02 (Left side) Replacement Seal Part#996-561-904-00 (“Cabrio Plate” in Porsche terminology) 1. Open the top partially so that the top is open about half way and the lid is in the fully open position. 2. Disconnect the cables that keep the rear-most part of the top secure to the car. There is one cable per side. Push the cable inward (toward the center line of the car) to release it from the ball connection. Release both cables. 3. Let the top move forward toward the closed position and push the window section up and out of the way. 4. Use the flat-head screw driver to remove the 4 plugs that keep the rear carpet in place. Remove the carpet, starting at the top and working it around the trim. 5. Once the carpet is out, follow the lid stop light wire down and disconnect it. It simply unplugs. 6. Release the wire from fastening elements (Porsche terminology) on the rear arm of the left hinge. 7. Mark the location of both left and right hinges in relation to the lid, then use the 10mm wrench to remove the 2 nuts securing each hinge to the lid. Prior to removing any parts, cover the drain hole below the hinge with a paper towel to prevent any small bits from falling into it. Once broken loose, they can be turned by finger. (This is probably better done with the assistance of a helper to support the lid, but can be accomplished by one person working alone by removing the rear nuts first and supporting the lid in place with one hand while removing the front nut on each side with the other hand.) Remove the lid from the car by lifting it up off the hinge. 8. (For the left hinge, only.) Remove the plastic fasteners for the lid stop light wire from the hinge for reuse on the replacement hinge. These both just clip on and can be easily remove with needle nosed pliers. 9. Remove the additional flap for reuse with the replacement hinge. The flap is removed by pushing the locking lever forward, then pulling the flap backwards and pulling downwards out from the underside of the hinge top. 10. Undo the motor drive from the hinge rear arm by removing the 2 Torx screws with the T-30 Torx bit. 11. Disconnect the motor drive push rod from the front locking hook at the front of the hinge by releasing the small clip retaining it. It should come off by releasing the locking tab slightly and pushing down at the same time. 12. Remove the motor drive body from the body of the hinge by removing the 2 Torx screws with the T-30 Torx bit. It’s not necessary to remove the pin with the flat head slot on it in order to remove the motor drive from the hinge. It may take a little rocking, but the part should come right off without much effort. 13. To give more play in the hydraulic line to the motor drive to be able to get it well out of the way, with the flat head screwdriver release the tie securing the line to the bottom of the compartment. This just pops off and presses back onto a threaded retainer. 14. Move the motor drive out of the way and with the 13mm socket remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt attaching the body of the hinge to the body of the car. The 2 nuts are clearly visible, but the bolt is concealed behind a plug in the trim piece covering the front of the hinge. To access the bolt, remove the plug with the flathead screwdriver. (Be careful not to drop the socket or the bolt behind the trim piece as fishing them back out may be a challenge.) Once the nuts and bolt are removed, the hinge can be gently removed from behind the trim piece by pulling up on the back of the hinge and rotating the entire hinge about 90 degrees counter clockwise and pulling up and back while gently prying up on the trim pice with the other hand. (This is probably the hardest part of the entire procedure.) 15. Adhere the seal to the back of the new hinge replicating the position of the old seal on the old hinge. Clean up around the openings in the body panel to remove debris left behind from the old seal. Remove the backing film from the seal before installing the hinge. Make sure the contact surfaces of the hinge and body are not adhered over by the seal. Installing the new hinge is the reverse of the removal procedure: Work the front of the hinge back behind the trim piece; Attach the hinge to the car body with the 2 13mm nuts and the 13mm bolt and torque to 7.5 ftlb.(I used the electrical tape to temporarily secure the bolt to the socket and the socket to the extension to ensure I didn’t drop either down behind the trim piece.); Attach the motor drive to the hinge body with the 2 long T-30 Torx screws and torque to 7.5 ftlb.; Attach the motor drive to the rear hinge arm with the 2 short T-30 Torx screws and torque to 7.5 ftlb.; Reconnect the motor drive pushrod to the lock hook at the front of the hinge with the small clip; Re-secure the hydraulic line tie in the bottom of the compartment; Attach the brake light wire fasteners to the rear arm of the new hinge; Reattach the additional flap by inserting it onto the pins on the underside of the hinge and pulling it forward then pulling the locking lever backward until it locks; Install the lid, leaving the 10 mm nuts slightly loose and press the stop light wire into the plastic fasteners and plug it back into the connection; Reinstall the carpet; Reattach the rear roof cables; Next align the lid, so it will close properly aligned with the body. Using the marks made at the beginning of the process should make this a bit easier.
  32. 2 points
    Here is how I replaced the micro-switch. Here is a picture of the switch. Here is the door. Use a torx socket to remove the handle. Remove the clip near the speaker. You can grab it and pull it out. This picture shows the torx bolt inside the removed clip. Now remove the clip on the end of the door. You can see another torx bolt. This shows the clip behind the door handle. You can see that I damaged it a little by using a screwdriver to pry it out. You can just push it and it will pop out. Now remove the mirror control. Start at the bottom. The top slides into a hinge. The last torx socket is located at the grab handle. You can see my thumb holding up the clip and a torx socket with an extension is in the door. No we see the interior off the door. Pry a litlle bit around the entire door until it snaps free. Then release a few electric items and a door pin. Here is the door with the interior off. You next want to undo about 9 to 10 torx bolts that hold the door cover on. Here is a clip I removed on the end of the door but you do not need to do this. Now you want to connect the electrical, the battery, and roll the window up. Then dis-connect the battery and the electrical. Reach into the door and undo two 10mm nuts. This will release the exterior handle. working from inside and outside, you can work the handle partly out. Here is a close up of the switch. You pry out the old one and install a new one and connect up the electrical. This picture shows the window up. It also shows the door plate undone. I had no reason to remove the door plate. The last picture shows the door back plate installed. Before you install the interior piece I found it easier to connect the electrical and battery and roll the window down. I then dis-connected the battery before I installed the interior piece. I found this project to be very hard and would not recommend this project to anyone who has not replaced a door window. It took me about two hours so it is not a long project. The bottom line is, my window problem was not solved and I will be looking into the lock switch next. Paul
  33. 2 points
    I originally did this for the PCGB forum, but I thought it might be useful for Renntech members. The main fuse board is located in the driver's footwell. Remove the cover by pulling on the hole at the top of the cover. The fuses are arranged in 5 banks of 10: Rows A to E (top to bottom) and Columns 1 to 10 (left to right). A small paper chart clipped to the back of the cover shows the fuse assignments for your car and these quite often get lost. There were some subtle changes in layouts and ratings over the production period. Here is a pdf document showing the fuse assignments, for each model year (1998 to 2004) which have been taken from the wiring diagrams in the workshop manual. tec_996_fuses.pdf tec_996_fuses.pdf
  34. 2 points
    Replacing Switch on Transmission for Reverse Lights / Back-Up Lights Replacement Parts: 1. SWITCH, BACK-UP, part number 996.606.103.01 (This is the correct part number for my '99 911 Carrera 4. Check with your local dealer to confirm the correct part number for your car.) (Cost at my dealership on 21 Oct 2005: $8.16 + tax) Tools Required: 1. 19mm box-end wrench 2. Medium-sized flat-blade screwdriver Procedure: 1. If you are working under your pickup or SUV (and the wheels are still on) and the jack breaks or your stands slip, at least there is enough space for your body under that vehicle when it comes crashing down. Under your Porsche, there is no room for you unless you are only 3.6 inches thick. If the jack fails or the stands slip and the car falls, you will either die, or at least be crapping in a bag for the rest of your life. So lift the rear of the car up in a very SAFE and STABLE manner. I recommend the use of ramps, as shown in the picture below. Note how the front wheels are chocked, the ramps are super-sturdy and have stop blocks at the ends, and the car is in gear with the handbrake very tightly engaged. 2. Locate the reversing light switch on the portion of the transmission that is furthest forward in the vehicle. The switch is mounted in a hole in the transmission housing that faces directly up, and has a two-wire snap-on connector. (This is the location for a '99 911 Carrera 4 with the 6-speed Getrag transmission; your car may be different. Regardless, it shouldn't be hard to find.) 3. Using a medium-sized flat-blade screwdriver, pry the snap retainer of the wiring connector open slightly so that the connector will come off. Note that you will have to pry the connector so the plug can slide out, while at the same time applying pressure to the plug to push it out. The green rubber portion of the connector is to keep water out of the connection area, but it also adds some friction to the connection. You won't have to push too hard, so just make sure you're moving the snap retainer out of the way enough. 4. With the connector removed, drop your 19 mm box-end wrench over the switch from above. There should be plenty of room and it's easy to access. The threads are standard, so lefty-loosey righty-tighty. You should only have to turn the switch with the wrench about 1/12th of a turn at the most to break it loose, it should come the rest of the way out very easily with your fingers. When installing the new switch, be sure the switch body is aligned with the axis of the hole! The switch body material is either aluminum or magnesium, so be careful not to cross-thread the new switch upon installation. The new switch should screw all the way in VERY easily with your fingers. Apply a small amount of torque to the switch with the wrench when bottomed out. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the switch, you wouldn't want to strip the threads of the new switch. There is no seal ring between the switch and the transmission housing. When fully seated, the barb/emboss on the white plastic part of the switch (that the snap retainer snaps onto) should be facing the front of the car, approximately. (See photo below.) 5. Reinstall the wiring connector, be sure to push it all the way in so no green rubber boot is visible, and you hear the *click* of the snap retainer. Cheers! You've just saved yourself over $100...
  35. 2 points
    I just installed the clear side marker's on my father's Cayenne that I ordered from Gert. It's a lot simpler than I'd heard. First off, his truck has the 20" wheels and I did not need to remove the wheels. Here's a simple "how to:" 1. Turn the steering wheel completely so that one wheel is facing in. 2. Remove the 4 torx screws below the light and 1 torx screw above the light (size 20). 3. Pull back the wheel well lining and hold out with one hand. 4. Remove 1 torx screw holding in the light (size 25). 5. Push in the light from the outside and jiggle it loose. You may break the two clips on the light when removing. 6. Disconnect the lightbulb by twisting and pulling. It will pop out. It is not like a 996 that locks in by turning. 7. Note that the lightbulb will plug into a different spot on the European clear light. It installs in the lens that faces the wheel well whereas it plugs into the side lens in the U.S. I left the clear bulbs in as opposed to putting in the yellow bulbs. 8. Carefully put the light back in making sure the two clips lock into place and the light is centered in the opening on the bumper. 9. Install the number 25 torx screw on the light. 10. Pop in the liner and install the number 20 torx screw. You're done. The first one took maybe 15 minutes. The second one is a 5 minute job. Good luck!
  36. 1 point
    Symptom: Your LCD display inside your instrument cluster is very dim, or was dim before, but now you cannot see anything at all on it. So you are left with only the analog dials (needles) to rely on, for information. This prevents you from accessing settings for the car. This DIY will help you fix this issue. Most of the time, the issue is a transformer located on the main board of cluster, that becomes defective. Remedy is to replace it. Below info will show you every step of the way, from trim removal, taking cluster apart, doing solder rework and putting it all back together. Pictures are very self explanatory. I just completed this, after collecting information from multiple sources. Collected so that one can do it all from one place. Hope this helps. Do yourself a favor, review entire DIY before you start, so you know what you will need, what you will need to do, etc. PART INFO: Ordered from: http://www.keyecu.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=3003&search=A44002 Ordered from this place for $25.90 plus about 23 bucks for shipping. If you plan to replace both transformers (one for LCD, another for analog dials brightness), order two and replace both. If you are not sure you can tackle this, get someone that can solder. Good luck.
  37. 1 point
    I did this one a little while ago, but never had time to get these organized into a tutorial for others. Here it is. Comments are in each pic, for each step to do. Each picture is numbered in the order to be done. Hope this will help you make the replacement easier (especially if you are new to doing such work).
  38. 1 point
    Hi, I have recently retrofitted cruise control on my 987, however, the procedure is essentially the same for a 997. Please see attached instructions for those of you interested. Many thanks to Richard Hamilton for all his help on the parts required etc. Cheers. Cruise_Control_Retrofit_987_997.pdf
  39. 1 point
    Hi guys, I’m new here and first of all let me say thanks for providing such a great site. The SIM-tray of my PCM2 was broken. The tray couldn’t be fixed any more and came out automatically. So I searched the web to find a solution for that problem. And I found your site. The description of t1m (http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=9559&hl=sim+pcm) [thanks to t1m] helped me very much to disassemble the PCM2. As having the SIM-tray taken out of the PCM2 I thought it would be a good idea to try to repair it by myself. And it worked :D . So if anyone of you has the same problem I like to share my new knowledge with you. 1. Take out the SIM-tray. Here you find 4 screws (see picture 1). You need a torx 3 screwdriver to unlock them. 2. After taking away the board you have to take away the front cover. Be careful not to break anything, it is only clipped. Than you can take out the drawer. In picture 2 you can see the broken bolt (red circle) lying in the guide track (arrows). 3. In picture 3 you see the drawer turned upside down. The red circle shows, were the plastic bolt was placed originally. Now the most difficult part begins: You take a very thin drill and drill a small hole right in the place where the bolt was placed before. CAUTION: You must not use a drill that is to thick or come out of center with the drill so that the whole isn’t completely surrounded by the plastic part anymore. Otherwise you loose the guidance of the plastic part. 4. After that you take a metal paperclip and cut off a small piece of the end. This will be your new bolt. The length depends on how deep the hole was drilled. It should look out of the plastic drawer round about 1.5 cm. Take some glue to fix the new bolt. Picture 4 shows the new bolt and the guide track (arrows). 5. Now you can reassemble the tray. It is a little bit tricky to readjust the 2 springs moving the drawer. I suggest to use scotch tape to fix the springs in the main body first (you can remove it later after having fixed everything), than put in the drawer and at last fix the springs at both sides of the drawer. 6. After that you close the main body with the board. Than you can remove the scotch tape. Finished. And you have the good feeling that you are now owner of a metal bolted SIM-tray. If you had bought a new tray you would have had the same problem again soon, as it is again plastics. This was the reason I improved the system. And it works really fine Good luck for your diy-projects!
  40. 1 point
    This DIY describes how to carry out a drain and fill of the differential and Tiptronic transmission for a 2005-2009 Porsche 987.1 Cayman or Boxster (as the minimum quote I got was for over $1000). The procedure will be similar for 1998-2005 996 and Boxster, plus 2005-2009 997. While it is not as comprehensive as a professional flush using a specialist flushing machine, it will get most of the fluid replaced. I am happy to modify the DIY with feedback or other advice. This work is done at your own risk, I take no responsibility for you skinning your knuckles, damaging your car or anything else by using these instructions! Total time taken to drain and refill both diff and transmission was about 3 hours and 2 beers, including taking pics and notes. Tools needed Sockets 13mm 15mm 4” extension Allen sockets 8mm (for diff fill plug) 17mm (for transmission drain plug) Torx T27 for transmission pan T40 torx socket for transmission fluid filter bolts Other tools Ratchet Torque wrench Laser temperature gauge Fluid pumps for transmission and diff fluid Jack stands Jack Drain buckets Consumables and parts Pentosin ATF 1 x 8 quarts (I bought 2x 5 quart containers from Amazon for $55 each) Differential 75W90 gear oil x 1 quart (around $20) Transmission gasket. Part number: 986-397-016-00 (around $22) Transmission oil filter. Part number: 986-307-403-00 (around $40) Transmission drain plug seal. Part number: 986-397-014-00 (around $3) Threadlock Mechanics gloves Degreasant to clean transmission pan Lots of shop towel / rags to clean up spillages   Step 1 Park on flat lever ground and apply the parking brake firmly. Then jack up the car and put it securely on axle stands. Try as hard as you can to push and dislodge the car. If you can’t move it, it will be fine. The security of the jack stand positioning is important as you will need to start the car and run it through the gears while on stands later in the procedure. Remove the 2x 15mm bolts located 1 inch aft of each the rear jacking points. Remove the 8x 15mm nuts holding the aluminum diagonal braces over the transmission sump. Move the braces out of the way. Remove the 2x 13mm nuts and 2x 13mm bolts holding the transmission skid plate in place and remove the plate.   Step 2 Remove the 2 bolts on either side that hold the rear sway bar in place then rotate it downwards to give clearance to remove the transmission pan.   Step 3 Remove the 17mm (hex or allen) transmission drain plug at the rear of the transmission pan. Drain the fluid into a bucket or oil tray. I drained about 5 quarts from my transmission at this point. Be careful as it comes out fast and splatters a lot. You should minimize spillage so you can measure the volume of fluid you remove.   Step 4 Remove the many T27 torx bolts that hold the transmission pan in place. Be careful as there will some fluid still in the pan. Try not to spill it so you can measure the volume.   Step 5 Remove the 2x T40 bolts holding the transmission filter in place, then remove the filter. Be careful, there will be some fluid in the filter and above the filter. Then remove the old green gasket from the transmission. Clean the mating surface carefully and do not scratch it. Then clean the transmission pan inside and out extremely well using degreasant then a lint free cloth. Remove the magnets and clean them. Then reinstall the clean magnets to the clean pan.   Step 6 Fit the new filter into place in the transmission after applying some transmission fluid to the rubber seals so allow them to seat correctly and without damage. Lightly screw in the T40 bolts to 6NM torque. Fit the new pan gasket in place then screw it back to the transmission. Torque in a crosswise manner to 11NM. Step 7 Refill the transmission using the Pentosin ATF 1. I got about 3 or 4 quarts in before it started to overflow. At this point, start the engine and go through the gears. Warm the engine until you can read 35-40C using the laser temp gauge on the base of the pan. While the car is in gear, top up the fluid again until it starts to drop out the filler. Then replace the seal on the filler plug, fit it into the pan and torque to 80NM. The transmission job is now finished. However, there is still a few quarts of old fluid in the plumbing to the cooler that I would like to try and remove or dilute further, so in about a week, I will do a quick drain and refill (no pan drop or filter change) with a further 4-5 quarts of new fluid. This should leave me with about 7.5 quarts of new fluid and about 2 quarts of old fluid, which should be fine for the next 50k miles.   Step 8 (Differential fluid change) Remove fill plug from the side of the diff just forward of the transmission (passenger side in a left hand drive car). Note there is no drain plug, the fluid needs to be pumped out of the filler plug. I bought a cheap ratchet powered fluid pump for this job. Step 9 When you have drained as much out as you can get (maybe ¾ of a liter), refill using the same quantity of new 75W90 and the same pump. It is full when it starts to drip out the filler hole. Fill quite slowly as there are baffles on the inside of the hole. Allow it to settle for a few mins then try to top up again. Reinstall the filler plug and torque to 35NM.
  41. 1 point
    This is most probably caused by your heat shields over the catalytic converters. They get rusty and the fixings cannot work properly. I was surprised how much the heat shields (£84 for two) and then the fixings cost (£30 for two sets) so I decided to try a DIY fix. So far this has worked perfectly! You may find that the heat shields look like this: You may have some good holes/fixings left but some rusted holes and no fixings. I used some aluminium sheet which I cut in a square then pushed into shape and then used "Fire putty" to hold in place and four "pop-rivets" so that is looks like this: Just two things to watch: "pop-rivet" with the head inside and the long part on the outside and also have the "pop-rivets" well spaced (so that they do not interfere with the brackets on the catalytic converters). Then drill a hole in the aluminium plate to match some new "U clips" which you fit on the existing brackets. Screw the covers back in place. This fixed the rattle at virtually no cost just a bit of time!
  42. 1 point
    The front bumper cover removal is really easy and give you access for a good cleanup of your radiators. I had to remove the left radiator and the fan at the same time. So here is the process….Hope this will help anyone... Toll needed: Philips screwdriver #2 Torx screwdriver 030 Tork screwdriver 025 Socket 13 and 16mm To do a good clean-up of the front radiator… (Pop rivet gun + six 1/8 diameter pop rivets 3/8 inch long) +++ Cover removal: Take out both side markers. (thin screwdriver press the clip towards the font of the car) You will discover a screw behind and a clip nut (that was not used on my car, front inner fender needs to be remove to get access to this screw...) In front of the wheel , at the bottom, you have a screw on each side. easier to get at if wheel removed... Now in front right side you got the outside temperature sensor. Just push it to the aft and it will pop out of his holder…. Open the front trunk and remove the four small plastic screws cover (1/4 turn) and remove carefully this plastic liner going from the left headlights assembly to the right side... Under this liner you will found two screws. Remove them…(Torx 030) Now under the front of the car you will found some Torx 030 and philips screws…Four on each side (3 torx and one philips) and three in the middle...Remove them. Now you can carefully take out the bumper cover….Risk of scratching is high. Be careful…. Under the bumper cover you got some ducts. Two for the side radiators and one for the front. To get proper access to clean up removal of the ducts is required…. The side radiator ducts are attach with two screws located in front and inside the ducts. Be ready for a surprise when the ducts are removed ;-) Side radiators ducts are held by two screws each. Note The small radiator in front of the big one is the condenser for the air conditioning. It is held with 4 crews to the radiator ….Remove them to give you little bit more access to clean the side radiators properly! Remove the front aluminum bumper reinforcement. (2 vertical bolts with a 16 mm socket) note 63 ftlb torque at reinstallation... Now that you have both side radiators duct removed, the front one is held by rivets. I've decided to remove it and was really happy about it because some part of the front radiator were impossible to clean with it in place…. Simply use a drill (1/8) and drill the 6 rivets out. The top or bottom one are not in front to the radiator core so don't worry about damaging anything behind those rivets… Two aluminum angles will be part of the fixture…. You can also remove the outlet duct for the front radiator if you are using water for cleaning…. Now that you have all the parts in front of the radiators removed it is really easy to get access to any of the three radiators. The front one is straight forward but the side ones need a fixture to be removed. First stop the flow of fluid with vise grip and metal plate to prevent damaging the rubber pipes... Now remove the three pipes clips and the fan electrical connector…One for the supply one for the return and a small one hidden in the back for the vent….On the installation leave the clips in place and when you put the pipes in place you will hear a small click. That means the pipes is secure in place…. Now only the aft fixture has to be remove for side radiator removal….Remove the two clips on the radiator holding pins aft portion and one in the forward portion of the radiator. (I use a screwdriver to release the lock and a center punch to force the clip out…) Also remove the forward bolt of the aft mount... Now remove the bolts and screw that hold the fixture in place. Be careful the radiator might come at the same time.Note: I have used i little bit a release oil on the radiators grommets (3) to facilitate the sliding of the grommets on the pins…. Now the radiator can slide out in the back…To remove the fan from the radiator,remove the two screws and slide it out to the left side…Note: I was able to slide out the fan assembly with the radiator in place. There is no need to remove the radiator to replace the fan assembly but the removal of the aft radiator fixture is required…. For your information. I have found the line for the headlight washer completely loose just over the bumper reinforcement Tie wrapping is a good thing because now there are no more rubbing or rattling on anything…. Of course the installation is the reverse process. The bumper reinforcement bolts should be torque to 63 ftlb. and replenishing of the coolant system is a must if you had a radiator removed. Happy wrenching!
  43. 1 point
    Hello. I have done this today on my 996Turbo MY2002, but it will probably work for 996 Carreras and Targas. Switchable power supply is available if your car is equipped with auto-dimming mirror. Here are the steps to complete installation: 1. There are two dimmed plastic covers on the sides of the dome light. Remove them (they go off pretty easily, do not use a screwdriver as you may damage the plastic). My guess is these are transmitter/receiver for the IR motion sensor of the car's alarm system. 2. Locate two screws there and use a philips screwdriver to undo them. 3. Now the dome light is only held back by the clips. Pull it down gently and it will hang loose. 4. Now locate the mirror harness. Shouldn't be very hard to do since you can track the wires going to the mirror. Undo the black duct tape holding the harness together and let loose the wires. 5. Now, you need a brown wire (ground) and black/orange wire (switched +12v). The latter is quite easy to find since it's the only one of this color, whilst there are 3 brown wires in this harness. One is sort of light brown, the other two are darker. You will need one of the darker wires, but you'll have to use a multimeter to find the one you need. Measure impedance between wire in question and any ground part of the car (there are metal parts under the dome light that we have removed in step 3). Find a wire whose impedance to ground is less than 10 ohms. You don't really need to remove insulation before you have found the right wire, just pierce through insullation using the multimeter's probes. After you've found the wire, use duct tape to insulate the other one. 6. Now you have the two wires you need. Locate the ground and +12v wires of your radar detector power cable and connect them in parallel to the brown and black/orange wires you have found in the mirror harness. Use duct tape to insulate the wires, then bundle them together into a harness also using duct tape. You can route the radar-detector power cable around the dome light mounting and hide it underneath the pillar. 7. Now assemble everything in reverse order and you're done! Some photos are included below. Enjoy!
  44. 1 point
    After searching around the forums for detailed instructions and feedback on how to get MP3 player connectivity through my Becker CR-210 head unit and not finding exactly what I needed, I decided to take a chance and try my luck on a cheap solution to the problem. About $ 20 plus my time. The compatibility of the plug I purchased clearly stated it would work with the CR/CDR 220, but had no mention of the 210 unit. Although I could not find any information about this on the forums or the web, my belief was that Becker would not have changed basic engineering of their audio connectivity between one unit and the next generation, and I was willing to invest my time and effort to find out. This guide will only work for head units with the CD-Changer installed. Although the engineering of the plugs is correct, the Becker Head Unit has to believe the audio is coming from the CD Changer to play the MP3 Source (you will have to leave a CD permanently in the CD Changer.) You will lose the use of your CD Changer, but cannot remove it from the vehicle as the changer must be installed for the modification to work on a CR-210. I have laid out the steps with a lot of detail to aid those with little confidence on their mechanical skills. I would think that anybody with the slightest mechanical inclination can perform the modification with no problems at all. Likewise, if you don't have the time, this guide will help your local car stereo shop who should perform the modification in less than a "billable hour." This solution is not an "IPOD integration". The head unit will amplify whatever is playing on the sound source you connect through your speakers with great sound quality; however, you will have to charge your MP3 player by other means and the head unit will not have control over the player. Preparation and Tools required The area behind the stereo and the inside of many of the parts you will be removing are dirty and covered by grease, adhesive or dust, I recommend you have Handy Wipes and Towels available and clean your hands often, so you don't leave marks on the trim and leather pieces you will be handling. I would also recommend you assign at least two hours of daylight time to finish your job, as a lot of the work will be done under the dash and good lighting really helps to do it well and quickly. - Torx head and standard screwdrivers - Power drill with a ½ inch bit or Rotary Tool with drilling and sanding bits - Hobby Knife Specialty Items required - Becker type blue 8 pin connector to 3.5 MM Audio Cable adapter ($12.95): Search for "Porsche Aux Adaptor" on Ebay, (seller: ipodmp34capa). This is a simple cable with a 3.5 MM audio jack (headphone jack) - Becker radio removal keys ($3-5 for 4 keys): search for "audi removal tool" or "rrk132" (seller: uneeksupply) I recommend buying two sets (4 keys) as they are relatively fragile. Auctions found searching "Porsche removal tool" consistently came up with twice the price as the Audi search. - Becker stereo security code: a 4 digit security code printed on a "Radio Code Card" that should be with your auto paperwork or manuals. If you don't have the code, you need to obtain it through your Dealer or request it on the forums by posting your VIN and head unit serial number (printed on the side of the unit). This code will be needed to reactivate your stereo after you disconnect the power source. Step by Step Guide Overview: This guide will walk you through the removal of the head unit and trim around it in order to change the wiring (plug and play changes) that connect the head unit to the CD Changer and install the aux cable. It will also show the steps needed remove the central column hardware and modifications needed in order to route the headphone jack to the oddments tray and have a visually clean installation. Power off and remove the key from the car before starting the process. Remove the carpet trim pieces behind the Center Column by pulling outward on the green dots and sliding toward the front of the car Remove the leather trim pieces on the Center Column by pulling outward on the green dots and sliding toward the back of the car. Remove the trim piece that covers the bottom of the Center Column by carefully pulling on the green dots Remove the faceplate of your head unit by pressing a small button on the right side of the faceplate Insert the Removal tools into the head unit and push in until they click (the flat edge of the tools should face outward, the rounded edge inward) Pull the unit straight out of the Center Column. It may need to be jiggled a little to come out. It may be best not to pull the unit all the way out, as you will have to disconnect the cables behind the stereo before taking it out completely and this is easier to do once the following step has been performed. Carefully remove the plastic trim around the Air Conditioning controls Unscrew and pull out the A/C Control unit by unscrewing the two screws marked in green close to the top of the unit Reach into the cavity and unsnap the audio and power connectors from the stereo head unit (left side from the front). Also unhook the antenna connector from the head unit (right side from the front) and slide the stereo unit out of the Center Column. Once you have taken the unit out, remove the Removal Keys from the unit by pressing in on the sides of the head unit and pulling the keys straight out. Remove the Center Column housing by removing 2 Torx screws on each side. The longer screws hold the Center Column housing at the point closest to the front of the car Side view of the Center Column Rear view of the Center Column Remove the Oddments tray and Cassete tray by pressing them from the back. The top unit (cassette holder)should be removed first. Using a hobby knife, cut a square in the rubber mat at the back of the oddments tray and using your Drill or Rotary tool drill the hole through which you will route the audio jack into the car. Be careful as this part of your work will be visible from the car cabin. The ½ inch hole may be too small to get the audio jack through. Use your hobby knife or larger bits if necessary to enlarge the hole as need. Connect the Blue Becker adapter to the back of your Head Unit as illustrated. The Green Becker connector from your car will go next to it where indicated by the green dot on the illustration. Route the cable through the opening where your stereo will be installed, straight back and down so it exits at the middle of your Center Console location where marked by a green dot in the following illustration. Start sliding your Head Unit back into the correct location, taking care to guide all the wiring to places that do not block the metal guides that will hold the unit once it is back in place. Reconnect the Black, Brown and Green audio connectors (the original blue connector from the CD-Changer will not be reconnected). Power up the vehicle and turn on your stereo, you will be prompted for the 4 digit security code. Once you have entered it with the numeric selector keys, press up on the right hand side selector and the unit should begin to operate normally. Place a CD in one of the CD Changer locations and connect your MP3 player to the audio jack. Select CD from your source and press play on the MP3 Player. The head unit should play your MP3 audio source, but the LED display will indicate it is playing a CD. Push the unit in until it clicks into place, if you feel you are pressing too hard, check the back of the unit to see if the wiring harnesses are not blocking the insertion of the head unit. The Aux cable should be routed through the back to where the Center Column housing will be installed. Begin reassembly and route your Aux cable to the oddments tray before reinstalling the carpet trim pieces at the back of the Center Column. Happy Driving with all your tunes.
  45. 1 point
    This DIY is for 99-01 996 Litronic Xenon headlamps/headlights Unlock your headlights by using the tool key (female allen wrench) on the side. Use manuals for help. Unscrew these 2 screws then pull the white box out of the way. Once the white box is out of the way you can see behind the projectors. There should be (3) star bit screws (T-20 with security hole) Make sure to mark the (TOP) just so you don't get confused when you put it back together. Unscrew 4 star bits around the projectors Clear coat it then bake for 15 mins at 250 degrees then wait the next day to wet sand and buff. Wet sand all around until everything looks dull. Use this 3M products Mothers ball polisher after compound Compound (by hand) then polish (with mothers ball) Crystal clear finish. Factory lens with frosty finish Factory lens with clear coat and buffed finish ***NOTE*** This particular picture is not a Porsche projector. I'm showing a RX330 lens with FROST/ROUGH finish. That's why the cut off line isn't sharp on some factory lens. Only some comes factory clear such as TSX S2000 300ZX and some other cars.... ENJOY!
  46. 1 point
    996TT Grill Screen DIY I managed to damage my turbo splitter, so I figured since i needed to epoxy together some inner fender liner plastics (until my new bumper cover I bought last year is painted), I figured I'd go ahead and do my own gumper grill screens... Here are some pics in order of installation... Remember, you must remove the following: Splitter (which I managed to remove by clipping it pulling into a grassy area to park at my Sisters) The inner fender liners The bumper cover... The exposed bellows for the three radiators - this is the Driver's side unit. Starting with the center unit, I punch the first hole in the center of the bellow top lip: Installing a Ziptie Starting it thru the mesh: Triming a bit of the material to fit the grill opening! Center Bellows without screen installed... Finished material behind the grill with the bumper back in place! It's cake to install these gang. Installing them in the rubber bellows is so easy, takes about two hours, and $50 in materials, along with another $30 in tools... Mike
  47. 1 point
    Here is how you replace the spring in the center console on a 2006 997S. The cost of the part was 87 cents. Here is a picture of the part. You remove eight torx screws to get the cover off. This is the cover off. Here is the cover. There were two different length screws but it does not matter where they go. Next you release tension on the spring. I have a torx socket resting on the spring release. The last step is to pull the hinge pin out. I used a vice grip and it worked real nice. Replace the spring and reassemble. This is a very easy task with a difficulty index of 1. I replaced the spring because the console door would rattle over bumps. The new spring works like a champ. Paul
  48. 1 point
    This is how I installed my new Kenwood DNX-6140. Doing this kind of work on your own car is up to you so do not blame me if you hurt yourself or damage your car. I had the car three weeks and put this in and a week after this my alternator went. I didn't take pictures of that but I should have. This is my first prosche and I'm not a motor head, that is until now.
  49. 1 point
    See Robin's DIY at his site: 996 Water pump replacement/ Alternate PDF file (if link does not work) 996_water_pump_replacement_procedure.pdf 996_water_pump_replacement_procedure.pdf
  50. 1 point
    So, if you've got a sim card tray in a PCM 2 unit which either stays in or stays out, you'll need a new sim card tray. You can order a new one by contacting Becker direct and asking for your local becker parts reseller. In the UK, its around £20 plus VAT. In terms of fitting, you'll need a set of torx head drivers, numbers 8 and 6. You'll also need a 5mm hex head allen key. You don't need to disconnect the battery, but its probably adviseable. Remember on UK (and probably all European cars) leave the key in the ignition turned on before you disconnect your battery, else your neighbours will be as unhappy as mine with the secondary siren going off! 1 - Remove the horseshoe facia. There are other posts on this, but it is a push fit. I got mine off by pullinig gently the inside of the facia from each side of the air vents. 2 - With the allen key, rotate the 4 screws (2 either side) of the PCM unit, which will push in some arms which stop the unit coming out. 3 - Pull out the unit and disconnect the connections on the back. 4- Unscrew the two torx head screws on the of the unit. The top half then pulls off from teh front first. Be gentle with this, as it holds the CD player and there is a wired connection between the top and the bottom parts. You'll need ot pull off the connector. 5 - Unscrew the two screws on either side of the case holding the bottom to the front casting. The front then pulls off with some teasing but again, be careful as you'll need to disconnect wire connectors. 6 - Once the front is a stand along piece, unscrew the torx head bolts all around the outside and you now need to get the front off of the casting. This is a little tricky, but the best way is to insert (gently!) a chisel inbetween the plastic casing and the casting around the push on slots to push the plastic up enough to pass over the casting, then use a flat blade screw driver inserted and twisted into the slot in the side to push off the front. You'll need to do this side by side. 7 - Lift off the casing and thread the wires out (you'll need to thread them back through the casing when you refit it) 8 - Lift off the LCD screen and the metal side springs and disconnect the wire connector. By now, you can see the sim card holder. 9 - Pull off the volume know (its a push fit) and lift up the circuit board, and the rubber button moldings. 10 - Unplug the sim card holder (if you havn't already) and unscrew the 4 screws (number 6 torx) holding the sim card tray in. 11 - Put the new tray in and reverse all the above. Don't forget to take a note of where all connections were, and reconnect all wires on the way back.
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