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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/04/2010 in Posts
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:welcome: For the Cayenne S and Turbo (V8) <----- FRONT 1 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 1, bank 1 2 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 2, bank 1 3 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 3, bank 1 4 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 4, bank 1 5 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 5, bank 2 6 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 6, bank 2 7 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 7, bank 2 8 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 8, bank 28 points
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Yes that tube goes to the resonance flap. It's probably a really long tube right? That's the one that goes to the rear of the engine (front of car). From my above post: "In the diagram link below, the tubes you are talking about is #19, which goes into #21 (another hose) which then goes into the resonance flap: http://www.autoatlan...9-05/107-10.php" Yes the DIY link I posted has the procedure you need to remove the throttle body and t-plenum so you can reach behind the rear intake crossover and reconnect a new tube from the resonance flap to the change over valve in the position you7 points
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Which radios fitted to Porsche can have their unlock code recovered through serial number? - CR-220/CDR-220 - Becker - CR-210/CDR-210 - Becker - Traffic Pro NAV/CD - Becker Which radios can not have their unlock code recovered through serial number? - CR1 - Alpine - CDR-23/24 (or later) - Becker - PCM (Porsche Communication Management) – Siemens & Becker How to get your radio serial number? CR-220/CDR-220: Hold down the TP button for at least 10 seconds after you turn the radio on. "Becker 1" will be displayed. Rotate the right knob (slowly) and it will display th7 points
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LONG STORY SHORT,,...My entry and drive system went bad one day., after almost a year of testing , replacing the battery, buying the test tool, almost brought a china piwis ,.... and bringing it to dealer and 800 dollars of dealer time., I had it fixed for 5 Dollars in parts. and one hr of soldering at first my kessy do not communicate to the darmatic tool or PIWIS at all, the dealer went ahead try to replace it , with a superseeded module, HOWEVER they wasn't able to program it for unknown reason, there is no module out there that will take my car's pin and complete the marry process becau4 points
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Air Oil Separator Replacement (AOS) EDIT: Fixed text boxes to see text better. This is an AOS DIY that walks you through the process of replacing the AOS. This is for a 2000 996 C2 Cab, six speed. I tried to be as thorough as I could in writing the DIY. If there is something left out or lesson learned from your personal experience with the AOS and or this DIY, please let me know so I can incorporate it into the document. Regards, Ken How do you eat an elephant? -- One bite at a time! Air Oil Se Author4 points
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Cayenne 2003 4.5S I needed to pressure test my coolant system to identify a leak that, when hot, could be smelt but not seen & when cold didn't leak! I wanted to buy a Coolant Pressure Test Kit but was not sure which one to buy. During my research, I noticed there was one type of generic non-branded 'universal' kit that appeared multiple times on the general market (eBay & Amazon for instance).. Most listing for this generic kit listed all the car types it would fit but of course, Porsche was not listed - however, a few VAG applications were listed so I took a punt & orde4 points
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You would need to get in line, others have been there before you. Mityvac, amongst others, have promoted this concept for years. Unfortunately, there is are a couple of major downsides: Going in through the dipstick tube, you rarely get all the old, contaminated oil out. Secondly, and perhaps more importantly, there are a lot of sharp edged things down there that can catch flexible tubes inserted down the dipstick tube. We have had more than one car flat bedded to the shop after an oil extraction unit line got stuck and could not be removed, requiring us to run up some expensive shop time4 points
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The P1123 Code "Oxygen Sensing adaptation range 1 Cylinders 1-3) Lean limit" is referring to the fact that DME has reached its limit is trying to lean out that bank and the car is running too rich as the result. Usual two suspects are either high fuel pressure or a leaking injector(s) on that side. As you have not identified your year or model, in some cases is can also be a defect fuel pressure regulator on the injector fuel rail, depending upon the year, as some models do not have the external regulator. There is little probability of the MAF being involved in this issue. Step number on4 points
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Here's the video. Sorry for the shakiness and poor audio. I found my old 24-bit PCI soundcard isn't supported in Windows 7, and I've yet to invest in a new USB recording system. I only make these when something on my car breaks, so if anyone else in the Houston area wants to collaborate, I'll be happy to assist and film your next project.4 points
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I did this over the weekend, so I videotaped it. My apologies for the narration. I need to not drink beer while editing. Hope this helps somebody.4 points
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2003 Boxster - Purchased new in December '02 with mileage from the Port to my dealer here in So Cal (17 miles). I just changed my oil at 135,000 miles yesterday. I've only performed standard maintenance and do most of it myself: Oil and Filter (Amsoil 5W-40/Mahle Filter) every 15K Front Brakes - 60K Drive Belt - 60K Front and Rear Brakes - 120K Drive Belt - 120K Clutch as not been replaced on the vehicle. I have had to have my key reprogrammed on a couple of occasions over the years. I also had to purchase the shroud that must be removed to fill the transaxle twice due to roa4 points
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For MY99 Boxster4 points
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Hi, I hope someone can help. I just had my car painted and they disconnected the battery and now I have lost the radio code. this is the info I have found. I'm not sure how to go about getting it. Any help would be appreciated. Becker 1 type 4462 # Y5038582 24/99 Thanks3 points
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Updated Mileage: 288,565. 2018 Round trips included NY to Seattle and NY to New Orleans. Still not driving as much as I'd like. #4 cylinder down to 75%. Trying to hold out to 300k before rebuild.3 points
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I recently decided to place some bright white LED's in both the driver's side and passenger's side footwells of my '98 Boxster. The lights are super thin and come with a 3M adhesive. I placed the driver's side LED strip on the vent tube that runs horizontally and the passenger's side LED strip accross the bottom of the footwell foam cover in the natural grove channel. The foam cover is held in place by 2 screws with large heads. Both sets of lights are wired together and are joined together on the passenger side above the foam cover (and now new LED light) and connect to two (2) wires, pos3 points
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I had the same problem. There is a rubber coupling between the motor and window cable drive pulley. The rubber softens with age to the point where the window barely moves when the handle is operated, however when the window is fully opened or closed everything appears fine. The mechanism can be stripped very easily, I made replacement rubber coupling inserts just using a Stanley knife and 8mm rubber gasket material. The end result was a perfect cure that cost pennies.3 points
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I recently successfully self-diagnosed and repaired the A/C on my Cayenne. Total cost for parts and refrigerant ~$65. Vent temps went from 17 C before the fix to 4 C in ~24 C / 75 F ambient temps and high humidity. I will post details on the fix and the way to diagnose this particular problem (and other HVAC issues) in a new thread. Anyways, one thing I discovered is that there is a lot of incorrect information out there regarding the HVAC system on these cars. One of the more pertinent items: The Cayenne uses a variable displacement compressor with an electronic compressor control3 points
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Yes. But the bolts are difficult to get from underneath. I tried bending an end wrench and ended up making one by welding a socket to a cut off end wrench and grinding some away. The mounts drop by about 3/4 of an inch with wear.3 points
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Welcome to RennTech I can tell that your mechanic does not specialize in Porsches. This is a topic that has been discussed many times, and a good search would help you fill in the details. In a nutshell, cold air systems are a waste of time and money on these cars as it came from the factory with a very well designed one already installed. Your current fuel injectors are capable of delivering more than enough fuel, so putting in larger ones is also a general waste of time and money. They also won't add anything as the DME will step in and throttle them back to mainta3 points
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Coolant Pipe Replacement Detailed Instructions I recently replaced the coolant pipes in my car. I needed to do the job myself because there was simply no way I was going to shell out anywhere from $1500 to $3500 in labor to have it done by the dealership or an independent shop. Plus, having read about the job, I knew they would be tearing through a ton of stuff and I really feared the "oh, it also needs this" scam. I did a LOT of research on the various forums before undertaking this job. Reading and printing out anything I thought was useful information. I would highly e3 points
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Recently PCA posted attempt to accommodate 996 owners who may be frustrated with value and IMS controversy. We're aware of the class action suit won against Porsche regarding the original IMS. Also, it's recommended that we replace the original IMS anyway and don't know how to determine if it was defective to begin with. There's a company publishing on Facebook, believe called Gearheads, that put the 996's as one of 8 sports cars that, if bought, should be done with extreme caution. Some of PCA comments included that maybe 1 of 10 996's may experience IMS failure (local dealer told me mayb3 points
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So, again in an effort to help others that might look for this in the future: 996 GT3, Airbag Light and Durametric fault " Code 30, ignition circuit - side airbag, passenger". Side airbag = door airbag: There was nothing wrong with it, the connector was good, and I also electrically swapped a spare airbag that I had, but the fault remained. Knowing the issue was coming from that circuit, and since I had disconnected the door and the controller when I stripped the car, I looked at both of those, looking for a bent pin, or? I expected the door connector to be3 points
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I hadn't driven the car lately and took it out for a spin. After it warmed up, I stretched it's legs until the speedo pegged stupid, then i eased out of it for a mile or so and exited the highway. When I got to the intersection the oil pressure lamp lit up and i noticed it was about .3 bar. I could hear my sphincter pull my Levi's into my collon. A quick blip of the throttle brought it back up to 1.5, where it mostly stays. Even cold it doesn't usually make it over 3. So I headed to the house and hit this forum to find what I thought was my best guess as to what is causing this. The top3 points
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To anyone who is following this topic: It CAN be done and is not as nearly complex as you might think. After my initial post I received an email from another forum member. He informed me that he had done the swap successfully a couple of year ago and that while it was not bolt on/plug and play, it was by no means as difficult as the internet would have you believe. He was amazingly helpful during the process and the only reward he wanted was knowing that another 3.6 swap would be done. I am currently driving the car with no issues, it has terrific power & drivability and I could not be3 points
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News to me... the only big confusing issue that I know of is the bad engine ground (splice) that caused all sorts of erroneous faults. But there was a TSB with instructions of how to fix that. Any combination of faults for the sensors listed may indicate this ground splice is broken or faulty. Mass air flow implausible (P0068) Intake Manifold pressure sensor (P0069, P0106, P0107, P0108, P1183, P1184) Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor faults (P0116_P0119, P050C, P3081, P3082) Radiator exit Coolant Temperature Sensor faults (P2183_P2186) System too Lean or too Rich (Bank 1 & Bank 2)3 points
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My 996tt Key is just too badly abused to be used lol So SunCoast Porsche Dealer was kind enough to honor the PCA discount and sent me the NEW design KEY which is an easy gut swap from old to new! As this process went on you can really see and feel why they went with a new key design. New weather seal design is much better and and the construction is 100% more solid. Of course its light years more pleasing to own. Box Old Key New Key Old and New OPENed Up Remove the Transmitting Crystal Pull back this Clip and this one Pull out the Circuit Pull t3 points
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I've added a new section to the OBD II section that gives a table of Porsche System Tester(s) codes and their cross-reference to P-Codes. Useful when the service technican gives use a two or three digit code that is not a (Standardized DTC SAE J 2012) P-Code. This listing is also useful to related P-Codes, to determine fault types and whether the MIL (CEL) light on, off or flashing with a specific code.I think I transferred everything ok but let me know if you see typos or other mistakes.Porsche OBD II P-Codes Section3 points
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Because the Tip uses an oil to water cooler mounted on the side of the gearbox instead of running trans fluid lines all the way to the radiators, there is literally no way to use a power flushing system on them. So you are limited to draining 3-4 liters out when you drain the pan and swap out the filter. Doing multiple refills and dumps will help clean out a trans that has not been serviced properly for some time. Once you have got the system cleaned out, a better regimen would be to do at least an annual trans fluid dump (changing the filter every other year), so that you are constantly re3 points
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So for everyone that has been discussing Porsche Cayenne ATF....AKA JW3309/LT41171.Porsche PN 000 043 205 28There has always been debate on Toyota Type IV being the same as the Cayenne ATF. So i sent in VIRGIN SAMPLES to blackstone to get the analysis on additives.The results are shown below:..........................................Cayenne ATF....................Toyota Type IVBoron.......................................73.........................................84Calcium...................................128.......................................105Phosphorous...........................292...3 points
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Well thanks for the comment. I figured a way to get the Reservoir out and it indeed did leak from the seam at different locations. Received the parts and coolant within a day, and re-assembled the whole thing yesterday. The system is not leaking anymore, and the remaining task will be to find a place to get old coolant disposed before I can replace it. Overall I split the job over 2 vacation days, where-off most of the time I did spend analyzing function of components and how things are assembled and of course removing more parts then needed. Looking into these things is always interestin3 points
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996 owners don't hate their cars either! I love my C4S! That being said, I'm pretty excited to test drive a 991. I think my next 911 purchase will be a 991.3 points
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There are three possible adjustments to the position of the windows: 1) inboard/outboard, 2) up and down at the front of the window and at the back of the window, and 3) forward and backward. The access holes on the underside of the door are two near the front edge of the door and two near the rear edge of the door. The ones closest to the front edge and rear edge of the door are for accessing the adjustment for 2) above. The ones furthest from the front edge and rear edge of the door are for accessing the adjustment for 1) above. To perform the adjustment for 3) above, you must rem3 points
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Hi All, I've located the problem, quite simple really apart from the lack of space behind the dash. I located the servos, there are three I could see, and one under the dash controls the recirculation system. one nearest the shifter is the footwell, there’s one a little further up I assume that’s for the face vents or windscreen. In order to access the servos first remove the bottom panel, one torx screw nearest the seat in the centre, then drop the panel down & detach the 12v aux sockets (there’s 2 on mine). Also detach power from the footwell light. Then remove the glove box, very simp3 points
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The keys for these cars are a reoccurring theme: Expen$ive. They require a special (read expensive) tool to cut, which many locksmiths do not have. I am not aware of any aftermarket source for the blanks. The coding is an issue because it requires proprietary software (PIWIS) to accomplish. Unfortunately, for the most part, only the dealer network has access to all three components, which limits your options. You can try shopping around different dealers, they often vary widely on what they charge, but in the end you are probably going to have to pay more than you want to get it. Not th3 points
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After reading this forum on Saturday, I went about replacing my amber side markers with clear side markers. After partially removing the wheel well liner like this forum and the owner manual suggests I struggled to remove the first side marker. After about 20 minutes, the first amber marker was out. What a chore. Now that I could see specifically how and where the marker attached (with pressure clips) I decided to take a different approach on the second side... 1. Slip a piece of fishing line (I used 40lb test) under the front point of the side marker. You may have to put a little pressure3 points
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Removing selector knob 1. Selector lever is in position D. Note! -- The button (inset) at the front must not be pressed down when the selector knob is pulled. 2. Pull selector knob up and off. Installing selector knob Note! -- The button must not be pressed down when the selector knob is installed. 1. Selector lever is in position D. Caution! Spring in selector knob is overstretched! - Only move the selector knob as far forward until the tool can be inserted. - Avoid any further overstretching. 2. The unlocking hook in the selector knob must retract to the button gr3 points
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The famous plastic cooling pipes are indeed connected (push in) in to the thermostat housing, a small coolant leak at that spot drips into the V between both cylinder banks and evaporated before the coolant hit the floor, that could be the smoke you have seen. A leak on the water pump typically falls on the floor or the under tray.3 points
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I change the driver side fuel pump (primary) last week end. If you need to drive the car and avoid to pay a towing, just remove the #1 pump relay in the engine compartment fuse box. You need a torx 30 because the relay is located in the hidden part right next to the firewall. If your car starts and stall in less than 30 secs... Remove the key, remove the #1 fuel pump relay, then restart the car. If the car still running after 30 secs, like me your primary fuel pump is defect. By doing this, the computer think there is no fuel on left side and run the secondary pump !!! I drove the cayenn3 points
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3 points
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I have a 1997, which was the first year. It has been so long I do not remember all the details. The door lock thing I think was for model year 1998. In the US we did not even have a one touch up for the passenger window in 1997. That started in 1998. The window and top up thing started in 2002. I remember this because we took the top relay out of a 2002 and tried it on an older car. Did not work. Different control units. Live with what you have or buy a newer car..3 points
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I know when I need technical information, I come to this board. So for all those who search the board for 997 air filter housing removal, hopefully they will find this thread...3 points
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Because of the demand for disassembling sun visor - here it is: 1. Unclip mirror insert 3 -- Insert a narrow screwdriver between the mirror insert 3 and the mirror housing 2 at the bottom center, and unclip the mirror insert. 2. Remove mirror insert 3 -- Pull the mirror insert 3 upwards and remove from the mirror housing 2. 3. Remove bulb 5 and contact clips 4 -- Remove the 12V /3W bulb 5 from the contact clip 4. Take the contact clips upwards out of the holder. 4. Unclip mirror housing 2 -- Insert a narrow plastic spatula between the mirror housing 2 and the sun visor 1 on the l3 points
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I would add the following to help others attempting this ... please read the above and the below completely BEFORE starting your work. You'll thank yourself ! Getting the tank out I'd remove the air pump instead of tying it to the side as above. Its very simply and takes 30-40 seconds. It gives you room you REALLY need. Plus you won't break the air hose by bending it too much. NOTE: There are two screws that hold the air pump in place - at the bottom. In my case I found out that the nut thse screws go into had fallen off during removal. The nuts are 'suspended' in a rubber tube and age/temp3 points
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For those with the horn problem, I wanted to steer you towards the black hi temp silicone repair. I tried going to Lowe's, Home Depot, and even Ace for the o-ring solution suggested by jporter, but could not find an o-ring #38 or nylon washers of the right spec. Very frustrating. When I took off the airbag, I found that my rubber bushings were all still in place! This intrigued me because everyone else's had tears or even torn all the way through. Nevertheless, the silicone fix has solved my horn problem, and I conclude that my rubber bushings, though still intact, had become exceptionall3 points
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Easier fix is to fill the rubber bushing completely with Black hi Temp silicone gasket in a tube available at all auto parts stores. It dries hard and returns the horn to normal operation.3 points
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Removing: Lever the locking button A off with a suitable tool or finger. The locking button must be pressed so that the tool can be inserted between the selector lever B and locking button. (The ignition key must be in position 1 before the locking button can be pressed.) 2. Remove compression spring A and pull spring clip B off toward the rear. 3. Pull selector lever up and off. Installing: 1. Assemble the selector knob with spring clip, compression spring and locking button. Fit conical compression spring with the small diameter facing the guide peg.) 2. Press th3 points
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The M96/97 engine can blow a puff of oil every now and again and be considered "normal", but not every morning. Sounds like you may have and AOS on the way out; try removing the oil filler cap with the engine running. If it comes off with little difficulty, you are fine; if it does not want to come off, you have too high a vacuum in the sump because the AOS is toast.......2 points
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Yes, use your actual paint number code.2 points
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2 points
