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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/04/2010 in Posts

  1. 3 points
  2. 3 points
    Removing: Lever the locking button A off with a suitable tool or finger. The locking button must be pressed so that the tool can be inserted between the selector lever B and locking button. (The ignition key must be in position 1 before the locking button can be pressed.) 2. Remove compression spring A and pull spring clip B off toward the rear. 3. Pull selector lever up and off. Installing: 1. Assemble the selector knob with spring clip, compression spring and locking button. Fit conical compression spring with the small diameter facing the guide peg.) 2. Press the complete selector knob onto the shift lever until it bottoms. The spring clip must fully engage in the slot on the selector lever. 3. Check function of locking button.
  3. 2 points
    Personally, if the body shop damaged it, I would insist they replace it. It's there fault. That being said, you'll have to remove the door panel to replace the upper window weather seal. Check out this video...
  4. 2 points
    when I did my front discs and pads I found the pins somewhat redundant if you have another pair of hands to help. Although the front calipers are big suckers, it was easy to hold the caliper clear of the disc for the few minutes its takes un screw and replace rotor. I also found that it was unnecessary to replace the clips holding the pads, if you just 'unclip and replace' one pad at a time, the clip just stays in place. that bit also can be done in a couple minutes.
  5. 2 points
    An 04 Cayenne should have PCM2.0, so it might be something else in the system preventing it from changing the VIN in the PCM. I guess the 2.1 must have been retrofitted.
  6. 2 points
    A quick addition to this thread. I noticed today that the 997.2 has two drains (per side) for the cabriolet roof. One dumps out at the front of the rear wheel, but the 2nd dumps out at the rear of the rear wheel. It exits at the point where the rear part of the rear wheel well cover finishes at the top. Make sure you give that one a clear too. I found I could reach it in the gap at the end of the wheel well cover. Pouring in some water around the top and then squeezing the outlet cleaned it out nicely.
  7. 2 points
    It all depends upon how long you expect your engine to live, and how much of the marketing "Kool Aid" that oil producers and car manufacturer's spout you are willing to swallow. The optimum method to determine when the oil should be changed is by monitoring the used oil's TBN (total base number), which indicates how far gone the additive package is at any point. When the TBN drops from virgin levels to 50%, it is time to change the oil. You should also be looking at contaminants that collect in the oil, particularly fuel and water. Those of us that collect this data, and spend most of our lives inside these engines, will tell you 5-6K miles is about it. Beyond that point, the oil is falling out of grade (no longer the advertised weights), its film strengths are significantly diminished, and the contaminants start to become corrosive to engine components.
  8. 2 points
    M96/24 = Boxster 3.2S engine used in MY2003 & 2004 6 = 6 Cylinder 7 = Engine Version 3 = MY2003 06115 = Engine Serial Number
  9. 2 points
    Yes, the Tip controller can not switch the valve if it is off (fuse removed) - nor can the vacuum valve switch with the engine off.
  10. 2 points
    I am posting some notes as to my process in removing the rear half axles from my 2000 Boxster S, and replacing the CV Joint “Boots”, both inner and outer. I hope this will be of use to folks: Note: For tools, you will need a large torque wrench. I bought mine from Harbor Freight for $79.00. I’d highly recommend not only that wrench, but a good set of metric wrenches and sockets, a NAPA CV Boot clamp tool, and a good set of snap ring or “circlip” pliers. I'd also suggest a ball joint separator tool. I’ll leave it to you, but when you order your new boots and clamps, you might want to order new CV Joint end caps, new snap rings/circlips, new hex head bolts for the CV Joints, and definitely new axle nuts, and perhaps a few extra nyloc nuts for the ball joints discussed below. Here is the process I followed: 1. Remove Porsche emblem hub center pieces using a 90 degree bent awl, or similar tool, and loosen, but don’t remove, the 32mm axle nut on each rear wheel axle. 2. Block the front wheels and raise the rear of the car from the middle rear jacking point approved by PCA and Bentleys, just rear of the engine oil sump, where the two bolt heads fastening the under-pan to the frame support appear. 3. Place a sturdy jack stand under each rear jacking point, using a rubber pad or jack stand pad (from Harbor Freight or elsewhere) to protect the car, leaving room to access the forward bolt from the diagonal cross arms on the underside, and gently lower the car onto the stands. 4. Remove each rear wheel and remove each 32mm axle nut, and slide wheels under each side of car as an added “catastrophic” precaution in case the car should somehow fall from the jack stands or should a jack stand collapse. 5. Remove diagonal underside cross arms and under-pan. 6. Remove bolts from each side of sway bar and swing out of way. 7. Remove six hex-head bolts from each inner CV Joint half-axle, and let each axle rest down on the exhaust pipes. Note: Use a nine inch ratchet extension and a good 8mm hex head socket fitting, loosening one bolt at a time, and using the parking brake for each bolt to keep the wheel hub from rotating. The 9 inch extension will help to achieve access to each bolt with the CV Joint Boot kept out of the way. Release the brake to rotate to the next bolt, then reset the brake. 8. Remove each nut from toe-in/track arm at the side of each wheel carrier, then separate ball joint with a ball joint separator tool (Harbor Freight) and, using hand pressure only on the track arm, push the ball joint pin out of the wheel carrier. 9. Remove nut and bolt from the trailing arm to the middle of the control arm, and slide the forked end up the control arm to allow movement 10. Remove nut from control arm ball joint and separate ball joint from control arm. You may have to hold the ball joint pin firmly in place with a torx/star or similar fitting into the top of the pin. 11. Mark the position of the control arm eccentric bolt on the inner mounting point on suspension frame, then loosen, but do not remove the eccentric bolt or the nut on the opposite side. 12. The control arm should now fall freely out of the wheel carrier 13. Pull each wheel carrier out a few inches and place a brace of wood (I used a 1.5 inch square piece, about 13 to 16 inches long) behind the heavy structure of the wheel carrier, squeezed between that carrier and the frame bracket of the control arm. Do this one wheel at a time, not together. The purpose is to hold the wheel carrier outward and firmly in place while you remove the axle from the wheel carrier hub as explained below. 14. Now that you have enough clearance with the wood braces, pound the axle out of the wheel carrier by using a good heavy hammer, perhaps 5 pound one, and buffering the blow to the axle with a small block of wood, perhaps 1.5 inches square and a few inches long. The axle will pop right out. 15. Now remove the wood brace spacer (the 13 to 16 inch one), but realize you must now grab each wheel carrier, pull the carrier out, even farther than the wood spacer accomplished, and remove the axle from the car. A good firm pull is required, and remain confident that neither the brake lines nor the strut will be harmed by the process. 16. Place each axle being worked on in a good vice or on a bench where it can be confined. Tap off the inner end cap, remove the steel snap ring (actually called a “circlip”) with special needle pliers, tap off the CV Joint, in all cases using a piece of wood as a buffer, and then remove the boot clamps and both the inner and outer boots, and clean out all old grease and ascertain that no contamination exists. Then in proper sequence slide the boot clamps and new boots back onto the axle, and repack with CV Boot grease. Be careful not to force grease into the bolt holes of the six hex-head bolts; otherwise, the grease may contaminate any loctite or similar product used when you “re-torque” the bolts at the transmission flange. Also, if you disassemble the inner CV Joint, remember that the ball hub has a camfered inner end that must face toward the axle after you re-grease it and install it into the ball cage, then into the CV Joint. 17. Reassemble in reverse. Torque all fittings. Use loctite where appropriate. You may need to use a jack under the control arm when re-fastening the control arm ball joint nut. When re-tightening the eccentric bolts at the control arm, be sure the markings remain lined up. 18. Only torque the axle nut to 100 foot pounds while on the jack, and even then only carefully. After replacing the wheels and lowering the car, bring the torque to 340 foot pounds, drive the car a few miles and recheck the torque again. Then replace the emblem caps. I hope this helps someone. I’m posting it only because I had some difficulty in my own process, and felt some of the detail here, though perhaps different than offered in other posts, might be useful. For pictures and drawings, I’d refer to Pedro at: http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site%203/Repla...lf%20Axles.html. Follow all factory torque specs and other mandatory procedures. You may want to check rear wheel alignment when done as well. Good luck all. And use care to be safe.
  11. 2 points
    Wind Deflector Install Just purchased a wind deflector and the mounting kit. Anyone have instructions on how to install it? Thanks. Edit -- please view the support topic here for details Author jambajuice Category Boxster (986) - Accessories Submitted 06/21/2005 11:19 AM Updated 06/19/2011 08:19 AM  
  12. 2 points
    P1126 is most likely intake air leak as you said. Have you checked the oil filler tube for cracks? Is it very (too) easy to remove the oil filler cap? You can monitor the MAF voltage using Durametric. Going by memory here...key ON engine OFF should be about 1.0v and idling warmed up engine should be about 1.3v. Your Bosch MAF p/n looks correct per http://www.boschautoparts.com/
  13. 2 points
    So I've bought a new amp and it was the issue. The subwoofer is working just fine again. However I found it difficult to get hold of an amp from a Porsche Caynne, so after some research I found out, that the Audi A8 models with Bose, use the same amp for the subwoofer. So I ended up buying a whole subwoofer unit for an Audi, to only use the amp from it. SO much cheaper though! And exactly the same amp. Win! Once again, thanks for the troubleshoot! Jeppe.
  14. 2 points
    Reminder, when the car is lifted with the wheels off the ground, ignition on and in horizontal position, the air suspension, if present, must be switched off.
  15. 2 points
    :welcome: Sounds like an after market add of an AUX switch. This would allow switching from an MP3 device and the CD Player.
  16. 2 points
    This is not a Porsche code label, from 987/997 there is no longer a separate code label, all codes are on a i-pass availlable from any OPC. upon presentation of residence and vehicle registration.
  17. 2 points
    View this tutorial 3.4 liter Engine Parts Locations Cylinder Order (engine is turned 180 degrees for Boxster/Cayman) Cylinders 1,2,3 = bank 1 Cylinders 4,5,6 = bank 2 DME Sensors 1 - Mass air flow sensor 2 - Engine temperature sensor 3 - VarioCam valve 4 - Ignition coil 5 - Tank venting valve 6 - Secondary air pump 7 - Throttle potentiometer 8 - Idle speed air control valve 9 - Injection valve 10 - Knock sensors 11 - Hall-effect sensors 12 - Engine compartment temperature sensor 13 - Oil temperature sensor 14 - Resonance flap Author Loren Category Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 03/17/2010 04:06 PM Updated 03/13/2017 05:24 AM  
  18. 2 points
    I've finally sorted this out. It ended up being the Terminal 15 relay under the drivers seat next to the battery. It turns out this relay is responsible for powering the CAN bus and had an intermittent fault. Total cost $18. And 15 hours of my life searching for it. Thanks for all the suggestions along the way.
  19. 2 points
  20. 2 points
    It's been a month long journey into the depths of my 1999 996 C2 M96-01, but I am finally there and the car is on the road again! If you want to skip all of the boring commentary and head straight for the annotated pictures, then here is the link: https://picasaweb.go...6pcarnut/Engine (the email address associated with this account is not monitored, PM me or post here if you would like to send me a message) Some commentary about the process for the readers. PROBLEMS 1.) In the past 5,000 miles, oil consumption had gone from about 1 quart per 1500-2000 miles to 1 quart per 1000 miles. Still within Porsche spec, but such a rapid increase was worrying. I also knew that there were a ton of leaks that needed to be addressed, such as the spark tubes, camshaft covers, cam solenoid cover, AOS tubes, oil filler neck, and on and on and on. However leaks aside, the big indicator here that something was afoot was that bank 1's tailpipe was accumulating soot and producing purplish smoke on startup and high RPMs much more so than bank 2's pipe which was not exhibiting these issues. 2.) The oil pressure was fine at start-up, 5 bars. However when the car was warm it would fluctuate very slightly a few points in either direction of 1 bar at idle. Sometimes .8 bars. Cleaning the sender terminals did not help. I did not drive the car very long with this condition. In fact, barely at all before I decided to do this work. You don't want to mess with low oil pressure. This problem and the next one were what really got the ball rolling on this endeavor. 3.) There was an increasingly worsening knocking from bank 1 (1-3). The knocking would "seem" to stop after about 30 seconds on cold start, and I thought that this could be lifters or tensioners taking their sweet time to fill up with oil. One time the ticking lasted for 5 minutes. That really put the icing on the cake for the decision. After much Internet research, I determined that it could be stuck or collapsed lifter noise, because I couldn't tell whether it was coming from the top or bottom and that it would seem to go away after the car had oil filling the parts (but it was actually still there). In the back of my mind I also had thought that it could be oil pressure, blockage, valve guide, still could be worn rings, or perhaps issue with a chain tensioner or variocam unit as well. (after researching more and using the screwdriver stethoscope trick, I discovered that the knocking was present in cylinder #2, in the bottom end, but it was also present in #1). The exhaust valves in cylinder #2 were most heavily coated in carbon as well. Eventually, this realization and discovery later that the lifters were OK from my non-professional mechanical knowledge prompted me to pull the heads and have a valve job performed by professionals. ACTION Each problem individually above one might address on the surface by changing or swapping spark plugs, coil packs, and oil viscosity (which I had all done), however when those didn't have a noticeable affect on the issues, I decided to do something about the nervousness and drop the engine. A bevvy of parts were ordered. Because a lot of the parts on this car is relatively inexpensive, I decided to R&R many of the components which I had isolated before removing the engine. For example the 4th and 5th chains cost only half that of the bicycle chains I go through several times a year on my road bike. Each of the three chain tensioners were less than $100. Some people might question why I replaced both oil scavenge pumps after only 75,000 miles and 12 years of life, however in the overall cost of the project the investment was minor. I'm glad I did too, because one was not rotating as freely as the other, and no where near as freely as a new unit. An LN engineering billet hex oil pump driver and genuine oil pump spring and piston were also sourced. Waiting for the parts was actually the most discouraging part of the entire process for me. A few times I had to wait for parts from Germany which meant 7+ days. I replaced nearly every gasket, o-ring, and washer I could which was external to the engine, including some which are internal such as the valve seals (done by the machine shop) and head gaskets (can't avoid doing that or the bolts if you remove the heads). In hindsight I should have ordered the ARP studs for just a few hundred dollars more than the stock single use head bolts. I ordered 24 new "BMW" INA lifters, in case they were some of the source of the problem. Also in hindsight, instead of ordering individual gaskets and orings I could have ordered the complete gasket set, which probably had more in it than I was going to use but would have been easier (although somewhat more expensive) than ordering ala carte. WORK Here are the major highlights on what I replaced or work performed. Complete valve job was performed by Riebes machine shop including: Cleaning, gentle bead blast, and light resurfacing, vaccum and pressure test. Three way valve cut, 5 new valve guides (2 were horrifically worn - the source of the knock), new valve seals, and overall inspection for valve train components (springs, etc.). The machine shop also resurfaced my fabspeed stainless bank 1 exhaust header, it was badly bowed out in the center which plagued me with constant re-torquing, stripped threads, damaged bolts, and a lot of helicoils later. GOOD BYE exhaust leaks!!!! Head gaskets Head bolts Variocam ramps (two were heavily pitted and scored) 4th and 5th timing chains 24 new (old style) lifters LN engineering billet oil pump hex driver OEM oil pump pressure spring & piston Both oil scavenge pumps Oil pressure sender (cleaning the terminals did not help) All three external chain tensioners (all were scored) Replaced many coolant and AOS hoses New air oil separator Countless gaskets, o-rings, & washers Micro encapsulated rear case bolts Replaced water pump (oem, peace of mind) Replaced thermostat (oem, old one was lazy) Resealed and inspected oil pan 4 new lambda sensors (3 were very "slow") - killer deal from Amazon 6 new spark plugs (packs have about 20k on them) Fuel injectors sent out for test, cleaning, orings, and new filters Oil filler tube and cap New "04" coolant cap 10 quarts Castrol 5w40 Oil filter Cleaned IACV Thorough cleaning of engine exterior Cleaning of any interior or exterior part I reinstalled Thorough Intake plenum cleaning Inspected DMF and clutch Replaced about 1 quart of CHF P/S fluid Inspected polyrib belt New SAI check valve, hoses, tubing and elbows, and cleaning Repainted coolant tubes Flushed 12 year old Porsche coolant out and replaced all coolant with Peak Global using Uview Airlift 550000000000 Cam caps Ordered new RMS but didn't install because old was bone dry !!!!!!RESULTS!!!!! The results of all of the above are restored confidence in driving the car. The oil leaks appear to have vanished, since the engine is so clean it is easy to spot fresh oil. Low end torque seems to have dramatically improved on the few drives I've taken. Although I've taken it there a couple times, I haven't yet "fully tested" the high end RPM range because I'm going to give it a bit of a break in and "get comfortable with the rebuild" period first. Oil pressure now stays dead straight on at 1.2 bars hot idle and 5 bars cold idle. Last and certainly not least, NO MORE smoke at startup or high RPMs (thank you valve job). Time will tell if the soot or oil consumption returns. NO MORE ticking or knocking (outside of normal lifter and valve train noise I hear on any car). Thanks to the new thermostat the car gets to temperature much more punctually than it used to. The engine idles much more smoothly than before, it stays pretty dead level on 680 rpm - whereas before I'm sure there were some leaks in the system it would fluctuate some, the plugs were fouled too so not surprised. Warm idle numbers are pretty much dead on with the factory DME set points. Load signal 1.6 ms Air mass 20 kg/h Mat film MAF 1.35 Ignition timing 4.5 to 7.5 Spec air mass 17 gh/hr Spec air adapt 1 kg/hr Injection time 3 ms Oil temperature 207.5F (stage 1 is on, idling on a hot day in my garage) Oxygen sensing 1-3 1.04 avg Oxygen sensing 4-6 1.03 avg Range2 Cyl 1-3 FRA .98 Range2 Cyl 4-6 FRA2 .98 Range1 Cyl 1-3 TRA -0.14 Range1 Cyl 4-6 TRA2 -0.14 02 ahead cat bank 1 fluctuating .09 to .77 02 ahead cat bank 2 fluctuating .09 to .77 02 behind cat bank 1 fluctuating .09 to .71 02 behind cat bank 2 fluctuating .09 to .71 Cam 1 deviation 3 degrees Cam 2 deviation 3 degrees (was 0 before I did the work) Rough Running Thresh 10.5 to 10.1 Rough running occasional spikes to 1.5 Segment A 1 Segment B 1 Sense wheel adapt .0007 Misfire detection 0 ISSUES Not to say that my work was perfect, because I had one weeping perimeter head bolt that wasn't torqued properly, I damaged one of the coolant hoses upon reinstall (new one ordered), broke the stupid plastic AOS coolant coupler near the oil fill tube, and the oil filter housing was not torqued to spec (next time I have some spare cash I'll probably do the spin on adapter, I'm so sick of that stupid plastic housing). Bank 1 was ticking badly upon first start, I thought for the worst that I had to drop it again, but thankfully it was just a loose/bad spark connection. I also improperly routed the throttle cable and as a result the DME was confused about the throttle plate angle at first startup, and the idle was stuck at 1200 RPM. Both variocam actuators actuated properly when activated with the PST2, and power through the range is consistent and smooth. The only nagging things I am left with which I am somewhat kicking myself is noticing after the fact that the crank pulley appears to have more run out than I would like to see. I will be measuring this run out soon and investigating the possibility of a flat 6 harmonic under-drive pulley or perhaps a new engine. That and I don't think I have the timing 100% spot on, but it is close. Bank 1 @ TDC Bank 2 @ TDC I am also nervous about a potentially poor decision to abstain from loctite usage on the variocam actuator, lifter carrier, and bearing saddles. When I removed those bolts they appeared to be "factory fresh" oily and brand new for lack of a better term. So I decided to just re-torque them to the specific tightening sequence and value. It wouldn't be the end of the world if someone told me I did that wrong and should really consider removing the cam covers again. At least this time I would be able to do the work faster and with much more confidence. DISCLAIMERS I AM NOT A MECHANIC. I am a computer professional, and have done most of the work on the cars or boats I've owned or used for the past 20 years. Some of the things I comment on in the photo gallery might be done "incorrectly" or be appalling to some who are in this trade. But, I have to say it got the job done and I'm not afraid to drive my car anymore. THANKS First and foremost rennlist and renntech are perhaps the best sources of useful information you can find, since there is not a ton of info about these engines elsewhere, unless you have the money to pay for one of Jake's seminars (which would be totally awesome) or are a Porsche employee. There are several great "DIY" engine drop websites as well, http://www.nutrod.com, http://986fix.com, http://www.oz951.com.../enginedrop.htm, http://101projects.com and Wayne's Boxster book is great as well for M96-01 info, especially for summarizing the cam removal DIY - however it is somewhat "incomplete" as it leaves a few very critical things out such as ensuring proper timing procedure and torque settings are carried out. In the end, nothing can replace the authentic work shop manual. I wouldn't even try to attempt any of this without access to that and a Durametric and/or PST2. Thanks to all the suppliers, Bob @ http://www.sunsetimports.com, Henry @ http://www.porscheoemparts.com, http://www.pelicanparts.com, http://www.rmeuropean.com, http://www.4wheelsautoparts.com, and http://autoatlanta.com And certainly THANK YOU PhillipJ, Dharn55, Loren, Don and crew at Riebes machine shop, Dr. Injector, and anyone else who provided any help including those that helped fund this project through the sale of some of my parts! Now it's time to take a drive!
  21. 2 points
    Hi all, I am almost thru the replacement of a CDR23 / BOSE amplifier (2003 MOST bus) , and wanted to share some of my install notes. I have gained a lot of insight by reviewing previous posts, and hopefully, can add some more to the collective wisdom on this topic! Briefly, I was able to successfully interface a Nakamichi CD400 HU and ARC Audio Mini 4-ch amplifier to the factory wiring harness using an Autoleads PC2-95-4 connector. NO CUTTING/SPLICING of factory wiring was needed, which was a key consideration for me. Result - It works, and sounds noticeably better than stock (w/ the factory spkrs). However, the factory spkrs' deficiencies have now been highlighted, so me-thinks a decent set of Focals, Morels, Dynaudio or the like is the next order of business! Anyway, if anyone is interested in details, please see attached PDF. Note, this is NOT a full DIY tutorial - if you are not familiar w/car stereo installations, I would recommend letting a shop handle this. I purchased this amp from Rod Birch (Car Audio Innovations) and his advise and help was indispensible for me to get thru this project. Thanks, - Sanjeev Amp-HU-install.pdf PS: I would highly recommend Rod Birch - he is extremely knowledgeable about these cars and their ins/outs relative to stereo installs.
  22. 2 points
    1. thanks to loren and the wonderful diy section! 2. i changed my plugs and ignition coils (@ 80K) without removing wheels or bumpers or using a jack/lift. felt my way through it. took me about 3 hours. 3. wanted to share some photos of the condition of my ignition coils and plugs. please note every single ignition coil was damaged. especially the ones facing the rear (003 driver.jpg and 006 pass.jpg). thanks again!
  23. 2 points
    seems odd the cam timing would be off after 200 miles - it was a rather sudden event - one minute, it was fine - the next, rough idle. Had the IMS been done incorrectly, wouldn't have the engine thrown a code and started rough idling immediately? one other question - if this were a faulty sensor, which sensor would I be looking for? Thanks Normally, I would agree that it is a bit odd, however the 1340 code is pretty specific to the issue. What has me intrigued is that all the codes are to one bank, which means the relationship between the intake and exhaust cams on that bank is outside the limits. On a five chain motor, that is pretty much impossible as there is a short chain connecting the two cams on each head that should have never had tension relaxed during the IMS install, which is why the IMS upgrade is less problem prone on 2003 and earlier cars. I think it would be useful to have the car run on a PIWIS or Durametric system to see where the cams actually are; could be that the one bank has a dying VarioCam actuator, or a position sensor that is causing the problem. Hopefully, that is the problem, but if it is, you are not out of the woods just yet because the actuator can be fun to replace with the engine in the car…..
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    Open a couple of tray and carefully pull on each side - the tray assembly will pop out.
  26. 2 points
    We have added in a Reputation system here on RennTech.org. The idea behind a reputation system is the when someone is particularly helpful - you give them a vote. This vote increase their "reputation" for providing good solutions. You do this on a post by post basis. These votes get tallied and can be viewed in the members profile or mini profile. When a thread get enough positive votes it get denoted with a star. This can be a very useful tool to reward those folks that are very helpful here and to also know answers you can trust. As with any system like this - there can be abuse. If there is none - great we leave it 'on'. If there is abuse - then we will simply turn it 'off'. I hope this is a useful tool to thank and reward those valuable members that give quality and accurate help here. Enjoy...
  27. 2 points
    Got it! A gentleman on another forum was kind enough to post pictures and procedure. I kind of guessed that was it but did not want to tear something up out of stupidity.
  28. 2 points
  29. 2 points
    Porsche Boxster Avic D3 Installation Instructions Instructions below: Author trieullionaire Category Boxster (986) - Accessories Submitted 04/15/2008 08:02 PM  
  30. 1 point
    That's the vent line from the oil/coolant heat exchanger #30 here.
  31. 1 point
    I had just read they moved it to under the dash right when you posted, thank you. Found out from the inspector that the car doesn't run cause.....it doesn't have a battery. DUH
  32. 1 point
    The online manuals show the layout of the servos in chapter HVAC.pdf, from about page 35 on. These diagrams provide adequate information on positioning of the servos for re-installation. It doesn't matter where they are for removal. You can adjust the arms on your bench with a small 12v power source and a couple of leads. Contacts 1 and 2 can be teased to operate the servo motor. Reverse the contacts to reverse the motor until you have each in the position it's shown in the diagram. Then positioning of the servos becomes the least of your problems. Don't start the job without a set of long torqx screwdrivers and a tiny ratchet with assorted torqx bits. My experience in replacing the servos on a 2004 CS with left hand drive may not translate directly to a car with right hand drive, but I wrote about it at https://rodcroskery.wordpress.com/category/2004-porsche-cayenne-review (reverse chronological order September 18, 2016) and posted comments on page one of this discussion.
  33. 1 point
    I was able to duplicate the sound. Using very spirited cornering speed with 2/3 and higher acceleration, I think I'm hearing the sound of the exhaust reflected from the separated surfaces to the right. Since the acceleration has to be above a certain threshold, this is why I sometimes don't hear it, and why I heard it for the first time a few nights ago because I've never been that aggressive on that entrance ramp before. I'm gonna say it's nothing. I was already selecting new tools for possible CV and or bearing replacement. I'll save the list for later. Sorry to jump on this without more to go on.
  34. 1 point
    Thanks Tom M!!!! I received my sensors from tpms.com today. Had them installed and they were working within a few minutes!!! Huge thanks for this. Roch
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    Go on pelican parts diy for the blower motor and it tells which other part likely goes bad. It's usually the AC/heater regulator. Easy fix. Might also consider doing the blower motor while you're in there. Took me all of 10 minutes. Hope this helps, Matt 2009 Cayenne S
  37. 1 point
    Nice write-up, Hayyan, this will help future uses of this site. But your math is way off!!:) OEM 194 bulb = $4.5 Stealth bulb = $28.99 Difference = $24.49 = 544% MORE!! OEM 7507 bulb = $4.5 Stealth bulb = $29 Difference = $24.5 = 544% MORE!! OEM 7506 bulb = $9.25 Stealth bulb = $29 Difference = $19.75 = 213.5% MORE!!! I am usinf what the "cool kids" call new math.
  38. 1 point
    Always nice to see the kids enjoying the boxster. I take my kids on short trips when possible. Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
  39. 1 point
    You might say we have had good results; I have many of my customers on them for several years now with excellent performance. I also use them on my personal fleet as well. One additional benefit ( amongst many) is that you can use a FilterMag with the spin on, so that every drop of oil passes through a strong magnetic field on every pass.
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    While there are many fine oils on the market, you will be fine with the DT40, it is the only oil on the market that was specifically developed around the M96/97 engine platforms.
  42. 1 point
    If it is only the lock mechanisms then it is likely the central locking/alarm control under the drivers seat. Any chance it got wet? If so, you may have a lot of work ahead of you.
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    I compiled a list of the VW part numbers for all 10 motors that are on the front. Behind the dash, the HVAC system is the exact same as a Touareg and Q7. I take no responsibility for the accuracy of this info. The reference numbers are to the Porsche parts catalog, the prices are from ECS Tuning (cheapest place I've found the parts at). I think this covers the 2-zone and 4-zone, but am not sure on that. From what I can tell, the whole dash needs to come out to get at all of them. I don't have a problem taking off the lower pads and pulling the stereo, but if the upper dash needs to come out, I might think twice about doing this myself. Also - does anyone know why these fail? Are they physically binding up somehow, or is it just the circuit boards that somehow go bad? If they are physically binding up (which it sounds like they're doing), is there some type of lube we can put on them to keep that from happening? It's $750 to replace all of them, $665 if you subtract the fresh air flap (which is really easy to replace). That price sucks, but it's the labor to get back there that sucks even worse. And, to do that multiple times to keep fixing these if you happen to just replace them as they fail will start to add up. Would like to just go in and replace all of them if I could. There are an additional 8 more in the back if you have 4-zone, but I'm pretty sure those are a lot easier to get at. Format: VW Part number, flap description, Porsche Reference Position Number, ECS Price 7L0-907-511-AB front, defroster vent flap (1) $69 7L0-907-511-AD front, center left vent flap (3) $69 7L0-907-511-AE front, left vent flap (2) $70 7L0-907-511-AK front, left mixing flap (7) $78 7L0-907-511-AJ front, left footwell flap (8) $92 7L0-907-511-AL front, right mixing flap (10) $78 7L0-907-511-AM front, right foot well flap (11) $69 7L0-907-511-AG front, right vent flap (15) $69 7L0-907-511-AH front, center right vent flap (16) $69 7L0-907-511-AQ fresh air flap (13) $86
  46. 1 point
    The interior lights don't need load resistors. I just swapped my internal with led wedge globes from china. The whole set was less than $15 with postage, so you definately don't need an expensive set from a fancy "tuning" shop. I did choose to leave the reading lights as normal as the LEDs are so bright I find them too distracting if the passenger is reading etc at night.
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    I would also phone Eric at Bumper Plugs. The plugs are like 20 dollars. Paul
  49. 1 point
    I found it hard to believe as well, until i dug a little deeper. Turns out, theres this option for something LIKE a LSD... on cars with the stability management option, apparently the computer already has alot of control over the brakes. so what it can do is take constant measurements of both rear wheels, and apply a tweak of brake to the spinning one. on a conventional open differential, this makes more torque goto the other wheel. it does this so fast and so well, if you dump the clutch (with PSM off) it will leave two black marks... if you have one wheel off in the sand and the other on the road, you wont get stuck, etc... but heres the nicer part.. at higher speeds, (45mph according to Lorens post above) it doesnt do it.. so you can get the excelent high speed cornering of an open diff, while still being able to snap the back around with the throttle when autocrossing... just like a LSD. add to that, the open diff weighs less..(and its rotating mass) and the system adds no weight, as the hardware already must exist for the ABS... it becomes a software-only upgrade at that point. its a very cool little feature.
  50. 1 point
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