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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/04/2010 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    996 owners don't hate their cars either! I love my C4S! That being said, I'm pretty excited to test drive a 991. I think my next 911 purchase will be a 991.
  2. 3 points
  3. 3 points
    Removing: Lever the locking button A off with a suitable tool or finger. The locking button must be pressed so that the tool can be inserted between the selector lever B and locking button. (The ignition key must be in position 1 before the locking button can be pressed.) 2. Remove compression spring A and pull spring clip B off toward the rear. 3. Pull selector lever up and off. Installing: 1. Assemble the selector knob with spring clip, compression spring and locking button. Fit conical compression spring with the small diameter facing the guide peg.) 2. Press the complete selector knob onto the shift lever until it bottoms. The spring clip must fully engage in the slot on the selector lever. 3. Check function of locking button.
  4. 2 points
    Personally, if the body shop damaged it, I would insist they replace it. It's there fault. That being said, you'll have to remove the door panel to replace the upper window weather seal. Check out this video...
  5. 2 points
    when I did my front discs and pads I found the pins somewhat redundant if you have another pair of hands to help. Although the front calipers are big suckers, it was easy to hold the caliper clear of the disc for the few minutes its takes un screw and replace rotor. I also found that it was unnecessary to replace the clips holding the pads, if you just 'unclip and replace' one pad at a time, the clip just stays in place. that bit also can be done in a couple minutes.
  6. 2 points
    An 04 Cayenne should have PCM2.0, so it might be something else in the system preventing it from changing the VIN in the PCM. I guess the 2.1 must have been retrofitted.
  7. 2 points
    A quick addition to this thread. I noticed today that the 997.2 has two drains (per side) for the cabriolet roof. One dumps out at the front of the rear wheel, but the 2nd dumps out at the rear of the rear wheel. It exits at the point where the rear part of the rear wheel well cover finishes at the top. Make sure you give that one a clear too. I found I could reach it in the gap at the end of the wheel well cover. Pouring in some water around the top and then squeezing the outlet cleaned it out nicely.
  8. 2 points
    It all depends upon how long you expect your engine to live, and how much of the marketing "Kool Aid" that oil producers and car manufacturer's spout you are willing to swallow. The optimum method to determine when the oil should be changed is by monitoring the used oil's TBN (total base number), which indicates how far gone the additive package is at any point. When the TBN drops from virgin levels to 50%, it is time to change the oil. You should also be looking at contaminants that collect in the oil, particularly fuel and water. Those of us that collect this data, and spend most of our lives inside these engines, will tell you 5-6K miles is about it. Beyond that point, the oil is falling out of grade (no longer the advertised weights), its film strengths are significantly diminished, and the contaminants start to become corrosive to engine components.
  9. 2 points
    M96/24 = Boxster 3.2S engine used in MY2003 & 2004 6 = 6 Cylinder 7 = Engine Version 3 = MY2003 06115 = Engine Serial Number
  10. 2 points
    Yes, the Tip controller can not switch the valve if it is off (fuse removed) - nor can the vacuum valve switch with the engine off.
  11. 2 points
    I am posting some notes as to my process in removing the rear half axles from my 2000 Boxster S, and replacing the CV Joint “Boots”, both inner and outer. I hope this will be of use to folks: Note: For tools, you will need a large torque wrench. I bought mine from Harbor Freight for $79.00. I’d highly recommend not only that wrench, but a good set of metric wrenches and sockets, a NAPA CV Boot clamp tool, and a good set of snap ring or “circlip” pliers. I'd also suggest a ball joint separator tool. I’ll leave it to you, but when you order your new boots and clamps, you might want to order new CV Joint end caps, new snap rings/circlips, new hex head bolts for the CV Joints, and definitely new axle nuts, and perhaps a few extra nyloc nuts for the ball joints discussed below. Here is the process I followed: 1. Remove Porsche emblem hub center pieces using a 90 degree bent awl, or similar tool, and loosen, but don’t remove, the 32mm axle nut on each rear wheel axle. 2. Block the front wheels and raise the rear of the car from the middle rear jacking point approved by PCA and Bentleys, just rear of the engine oil sump, where the two bolt heads fastening the under-pan to the frame support appear. 3. Place a sturdy jack stand under each rear jacking point, using a rubber pad or jack stand pad (from Harbor Freight or elsewhere) to protect the car, leaving room to access the forward bolt from the diagonal cross arms on the underside, and gently lower the car onto the stands. 4. Remove each rear wheel and remove each 32mm axle nut, and slide wheels under each side of car as an added “catastrophic” precaution in case the car should somehow fall from the jack stands or should a jack stand collapse. 5. Remove diagonal underside cross arms and under-pan. 6. Remove bolts from each side of sway bar and swing out of way. 7. Remove six hex-head bolts from each inner CV Joint half-axle, and let each axle rest down on the exhaust pipes. Note: Use a nine inch ratchet extension and a good 8mm hex head socket fitting, loosening one bolt at a time, and using the parking brake for each bolt to keep the wheel hub from rotating. The 9 inch extension will help to achieve access to each bolt with the CV Joint Boot kept out of the way. Release the brake to rotate to the next bolt, then reset the brake. 8. Remove each nut from toe-in/track arm at the side of each wheel carrier, then separate ball joint with a ball joint separator tool (Harbor Freight) and, using hand pressure only on the track arm, push the ball joint pin out of the wheel carrier. 9. Remove nut and bolt from the trailing arm to the middle of the control arm, and slide the forked end up the control arm to allow movement 10. Remove nut from control arm ball joint and separate ball joint from control arm. You may have to hold the ball joint pin firmly in place with a torx/star or similar fitting into the top of the pin. 11. Mark the position of the control arm eccentric bolt on the inner mounting point on suspension frame, then loosen, but do not remove the eccentric bolt or the nut on the opposite side. 12. The control arm should now fall freely out of the wheel carrier 13. Pull each wheel carrier out a few inches and place a brace of wood (I used a 1.5 inch square piece, about 13 to 16 inches long) behind the heavy structure of the wheel carrier, squeezed between that carrier and the frame bracket of the control arm. Do this one wheel at a time, not together. The purpose is to hold the wheel carrier outward and firmly in place while you remove the axle from the wheel carrier hub as explained below. 14. Now that you have enough clearance with the wood braces, pound the axle out of the wheel carrier by using a good heavy hammer, perhaps 5 pound one, and buffering the blow to the axle with a small block of wood, perhaps 1.5 inches square and a few inches long. The axle will pop right out. 15. Now remove the wood brace spacer (the 13 to 16 inch one), but realize you must now grab each wheel carrier, pull the carrier out, even farther than the wood spacer accomplished, and remove the axle from the car. A good firm pull is required, and remain confident that neither the brake lines nor the strut will be harmed by the process. 16. Place each axle being worked on in a good vice or on a bench where it can be confined. Tap off the inner end cap, remove the steel snap ring (actually called a “circlip”) with special needle pliers, tap off the CV Joint, in all cases using a piece of wood as a buffer, and then remove the boot clamps and both the inner and outer boots, and clean out all old grease and ascertain that no contamination exists. Then in proper sequence slide the boot clamps and new boots back onto the axle, and repack with CV Boot grease. Be careful not to force grease into the bolt holes of the six hex-head bolts; otherwise, the grease may contaminate any loctite or similar product used when you “re-torque” the bolts at the transmission flange. Also, if you disassemble the inner CV Joint, remember that the ball hub has a camfered inner end that must face toward the axle after you re-grease it and install it into the ball cage, then into the CV Joint. 17. Reassemble in reverse. Torque all fittings. Use loctite where appropriate. You may need to use a jack under the control arm when re-fastening the control arm ball joint nut. When re-tightening the eccentric bolts at the control arm, be sure the markings remain lined up. 18. Only torque the axle nut to 100 foot pounds while on the jack, and even then only carefully. After replacing the wheels and lowering the car, bring the torque to 340 foot pounds, drive the car a few miles and recheck the torque again. Then replace the emblem caps. I hope this helps someone. I’m posting it only because I had some difficulty in my own process, and felt some of the detail here, though perhaps different than offered in other posts, might be useful. For pictures and drawings, I’d refer to Pedro at: http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site%203/Repla...lf%20Axles.html. Follow all factory torque specs and other mandatory procedures. You may want to check rear wheel alignment when done as well. Good luck all. And use care to be safe.
  12. 2 points
    Wind Deflector Install Just purchased a wind deflector and the mounting kit. Anyone have instructions on how to install it? Thanks. Edit -- please view the support topic here for details Author jambajuice Category Boxster (986) - Accessories Submitted 06/21/2005 11:19 AM Updated 06/19/2011 08:19 AM  
  13. 2 points
    P1126 is most likely intake air leak as you said. Have you checked the oil filler tube for cracks? Is it very (too) easy to remove the oil filler cap? You can monitor the MAF voltage using Durametric. Going by memory here...key ON engine OFF should be about 1.0v and idling warmed up engine should be about 1.3v. Your Bosch MAF p/n looks correct per http://www.boschautoparts.com/
  14. 2 points
    So I've bought a new amp and it was the issue. The subwoofer is working just fine again. However I found it difficult to get hold of an amp from a Porsche Caynne, so after some research I found out, that the Audi A8 models with Bose, use the same amp for the subwoofer. So I ended up buying a whole subwoofer unit for an Audi, to only use the amp from it. SO much cheaper though! And exactly the same amp. Win! Once again, thanks for the troubleshoot! Jeppe.
  15. 2 points
    Reminder, when the car is lifted with the wheels off the ground, ignition on and in horizontal position, the air suspension, if present, must be switched off.
  16. 2 points
    :welcome: Sounds like an after market add of an AUX switch. This would allow switching from an MP3 device and the CD Player.
  17. 2 points
    This is not a Porsche code label, from 987/997 there is no longer a separate code label, all codes are on a i-pass availlable from any OPC. upon presentation of residence and vehicle registration.
  18. 2 points
    View this tutorial 3.4 liter Engine Parts Locations Cylinder Order (engine is turned 180 degrees for Boxster/Cayman) Cylinders 1,2,3 = bank 1 Cylinders 4,5,6 = bank 2 DME Sensors 1 - Mass air flow sensor 2 - Engine temperature sensor 3 - VarioCam valve 4 - Ignition coil 5 - Tank venting valve 6 - Secondary air pump 7 - Throttle potentiometer 8 - Idle speed air control valve 9 - Injection valve 10 - Knock sensors 11 - Hall-effect sensors 12 - Engine compartment temperature sensor 13 - Oil temperature sensor 14 - Resonance flap Author Loren Category Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 03/17/2010 04:06 PM Updated 03/13/2017 05:24 AM  
  19. 2 points
    I've finally sorted this out. It ended up being the Terminal 15 relay under the drivers seat next to the battery. It turns out this relay is responsible for powering the CAN bus and had an intermittent fault. Total cost $18. And 15 hours of my life searching for it. Thanks for all the suggestions along the way.
  20. 2 points
  21. 2 points
    Hard to say for sure, but here are some things to consider. In my experience, it is usually the fluid. Either too old or air or moisture. I have a motive bleeder, but prefer to bleed the old fashioned way - two people, one building and then holding pressure on the pedal, and one cracking open the bleeder screws. Be sure you are bleeding from both screws on all calipers, starting with the screw farthest from the reservoir, then next farthest away, etc. And be sure you remember to bleed both screws on each caliper - i forgot one bleeder screw once. Super Blue should work for you. A lot of guys use the Motul or Castrol expensive stuff. I'm sure it is good, but as long as I keep my fluid new and properly bled, the Blue has not presented a problem for me. I bleed before every event. Be sure you still have at least the stock air scoops to direct some cooling air to the brakes. If those are missing, there is not much else to provide cooling. The GT3 brake scoops would be an inexpensive upgrade. I used to strictly use pagid pads, but now race in series that offers Hawk pads as a contingency, so I switched to those. I use DTC-70s and do not have experience with the other compounds. I do a lot of instructing and I've found with novices the fluid presents as a problem well before the pads. The pads become a problem only after a driver has several track days under his belt and is consistently exceeding the heat limits of the street pads. You can use a pyrometer or the color changing tapes to get an idea of how much heat you are building. If you are pretty experienced, you are probably fading the pads. The 996 in stock configuration is pretty heavy and produces a lot of heat. Now unfortunately, "hybrid" pads are a compromise. On the track, you might be hitting 700 - 900 - 1000 degrees. Street pads, and street performance pads, are unlikely to be able to handle that heat. If you look at the compounds of the various pads available - pagid, hawk, others - they will publish the heat range in which the pad is effective. True track or race pads don't work well at lower temps. They have to have some heat in them to work well. So on the interstate driving to a track event, they can cool down and in a sudden braking moment, they may not bite initially. A lot of guys change pads when they get to the track and change back for the drive home. On the ABS, I am frankly unsure of the answer. I think the amount of fluid is really small. And you would only be pressurizing that fluid if you get into the ABS. I have found the ABS in my 986S race car to be a bit of a PITA. It doesn't like trail braking under G load and you can feel it in the pedal being confused. I recently started using the Durametric tool to "activate" the ABS when I bleed. You will see some posts from some people about this - when you activate, you would think fluid would come out or you would hear the pump. I don't get any of that. But, it seems that the car feels better when I get into the ABS, but that might be all imagined. Finally, and I am unsure of this, but it makes sense I suppose - a respected race shop told me once there are two reasons for braided stainless steel brake lines - first is to protect the lines from debris; second to reduce the expansion of the rubber line under pressure. I don't know about either, but do use braided lines. Geez I'm long winded :) Here is a summary of recommendations. * bleed properly before every event * use a real race pad on track that can handle your heat if you are experienced driver * use GT3 brake scoops * use braided lines * and if all else fails and you can determine the brakes are fading when the ABS kicks in, bleed the ABS BTW - I do occasionally track my daily driver - my 996 C4S. I change the fluid and use DTC 70s all around. No braided lines, no ABS bleed, street tires (which means less braking) no extra cooling - and have had no fade.
  22. 2 points
    It's been a month long journey into the depths of my 1999 996 C2 M96-01, but I am finally there and the car is on the road again! If you want to skip all of the boring commentary and head straight for the annotated pictures, then here is the link: https://picasaweb.go...6pcarnut/Engine (the email address associated with this account is not monitored, PM me or post here if you would like to send me a message) Some commentary about the process for the readers. PROBLEMS 1.) In the past 5,000 miles, oil consumption had gone from about 1 quart per 1500-2000 miles to 1 quart per 1000 miles. Still within Porsche spec, but such a rapid increase was worrying. I also knew that there were a ton of leaks that needed to be addressed, such as the spark tubes, camshaft covers, cam solenoid cover, AOS tubes, oil filler neck, and on and on and on. However leaks aside, the big indicator here that something was afoot was that bank 1's tailpipe was accumulating soot and producing purplish smoke on startup and high RPMs much more so than bank 2's pipe which was not exhibiting these issues. 2.) The oil pressure was fine at start-up, 5 bars. However when the car was warm it would fluctuate very slightly a few points in either direction of 1 bar at idle. Sometimes .8 bars. Cleaning the sender terminals did not help. I did not drive the car very long with this condition. In fact, barely at all before I decided to do this work. You don't want to mess with low oil pressure. This problem and the next one were what really got the ball rolling on this endeavor. 3.) There was an increasingly worsening knocking from bank 1 (1-3). The knocking would "seem" to stop after about 30 seconds on cold start, and I thought that this could be lifters or tensioners taking their sweet time to fill up with oil. One time the ticking lasted for 5 minutes. That really put the icing on the cake for the decision. After much Internet research, I determined that it could be stuck or collapsed lifter noise, because I couldn't tell whether it was coming from the top or bottom and that it would seem to go away after the car had oil filling the parts (but it was actually still there). In the back of my mind I also had thought that it could be oil pressure, blockage, valve guide, still could be worn rings, or perhaps issue with a chain tensioner or variocam unit as well. (after researching more and using the screwdriver stethoscope trick, I discovered that the knocking was present in cylinder #2, in the bottom end, but it was also present in #1). The exhaust valves in cylinder #2 were most heavily coated in carbon as well. Eventually, this realization and discovery later that the lifters were OK from my non-professional mechanical knowledge prompted me to pull the heads and have a valve job performed by professionals. ACTION Each problem individually above one might address on the surface by changing or swapping spark plugs, coil packs, and oil viscosity (which I had all done), however when those didn't have a noticeable affect on the issues, I decided to do something about the nervousness and drop the engine. A bevvy of parts were ordered. Because a lot of the parts on this car is relatively inexpensive, I decided to R&R many of the components which I had isolated before removing the engine. For example the 4th and 5th chains cost only half that of the bicycle chains I go through several times a year on my road bike. Each of the three chain tensioners were less than $100. Some people might question why I replaced both oil scavenge pumps after only 75,000 miles and 12 years of life, however in the overall cost of the project the investment was minor. I'm glad I did too, because one was not rotating as freely as the other, and no where near as freely as a new unit. An LN engineering billet hex oil pump driver and genuine oil pump spring and piston were also sourced. Waiting for the parts was actually the most discouraging part of the entire process for me. A few times I had to wait for parts from Germany which meant 7+ days. I replaced nearly every gasket, o-ring, and washer I could which was external to the engine, including some which are internal such as the valve seals (done by the machine shop) and head gaskets (can't avoid doing that or the bolts if you remove the heads). In hindsight I should have ordered the ARP studs for just a few hundred dollars more than the stock single use head bolts. I ordered 24 new "BMW" INA lifters, in case they were some of the source of the problem. Also in hindsight, instead of ordering individual gaskets and orings I could have ordered the complete gasket set, which probably had more in it than I was going to use but would have been easier (although somewhat more expensive) than ordering ala carte. WORK Here are the major highlights on what I replaced or work performed. Complete valve job was performed by Riebes machine shop including: Cleaning, gentle bead blast, and light resurfacing, vaccum and pressure test. Three way valve cut, 5 new valve guides (2 were horrifically worn - the source of the knock), new valve seals, and overall inspection for valve train components (springs, etc.). The machine shop also resurfaced my fabspeed stainless bank 1 exhaust header, it was badly bowed out in the center which plagued me with constant re-torquing, stripped threads, damaged bolts, and a lot of helicoils later. GOOD BYE exhaust leaks!!!! Head gaskets Head bolts Variocam ramps (two were heavily pitted and scored) 4th and 5th timing chains 24 new (old style) lifters LN engineering billet oil pump hex driver OEM oil pump pressure spring & piston Both oil scavenge pumps Oil pressure sender (cleaning the terminals did not help) All three external chain tensioners (all were scored) Replaced many coolant and AOS hoses New air oil separator Countless gaskets, o-rings, & washers Micro encapsulated rear case bolts Replaced water pump (oem, peace of mind) Replaced thermostat (oem, old one was lazy) Resealed and inspected oil pan 4 new lambda sensors (3 were very "slow") - killer deal from Amazon 6 new spark plugs (packs have about 20k on them) Fuel injectors sent out for test, cleaning, orings, and new filters Oil filler tube and cap New "04" coolant cap 10 quarts Castrol 5w40 Oil filter Cleaned IACV Thorough cleaning of engine exterior Cleaning of any interior or exterior part I reinstalled Thorough Intake plenum cleaning Inspected DMF and clutch Replaced about 1 quart of CHF P/S fluid Inspected polyrib belt New SAI check valve, hoses, tubing and elbows, and cleaning Repainted coolant tubes Flushed 12 year old Porsche coolant out and replaced all coolant with Peak Global using Uview Airlift 550000000000 Cam caps Ordered new RMS but didn't install because old was bone dry !!!!!!RESULTS!!!!! The results of all of the above are restored confidence in driving the car. The oil leaks appear to have vanished, since the engine is so clean it is easy to spot fresh oil. Low end torque seems to have dramatically improved on the few drives I've taken. Although I've taken it there a couple times, I haven't yet "fully tested" the high end RPM range because I'm going to give it a bit of a break in and "get comfortable with the rebuild" period first. Oil pressure now stays dead straight on at 1.2 bars hot idle and 5 bars cold idle. Last and certainly not least, NO MORE smoke at startup or high RPMs (thank you valve job). Time will tell if the soot or oil consumption returns. NO MORE ticking or knocking (outside of normal lifter and valve train noise I hear on any car). Thanks to the new thermostat the car gets to temperature much more punctually than it used to. The engine idles much more smoothly than before, it stays pretty dead level on 680 rpm - whereas before I'm sure there were some leaks in the system it would fluctuate some, the plugs were fouled too so not surprised. Warm idle numbers are pretty much dead on with the factory DME set points. Load signal 1.6 ms Air mass 20 kg/h Mat film MAF 1.35 Ignition timing 4.5 to 7.5 Spec air mass 17 gh/hr Spec air adapt 1 kg/hr Injection time 3 ms Oil temperature 207.5F (stage 1 is on, idling on a hot day in my garage) Oxygen sensing 1-3 1.04 avg Oxygen sensing 4-6 1.03 avg Range2 Cyl 1-3 FRA .98 Range2 Cyl 4-6 FRA2 .98 Range1 Cyl 1-3 TRA -0.14 Range1 Cyl 4-6 TRA2 -0.14 02 ahead cat bank 1 fluctuating .09 to .77 02 ahead cat bank 2 fluctuating .09 to .77 02 behind cat bank 1 fluctuating .09 to .71 02 behind cat bank 2 fluctuating .09 to .71 Cam 1 deviation 3 degrees Cam 2 deviation 3 degrees (was 0 before I did the work) Rough Running Thresh 10.5 to 10.1 Rough running occasional spikes to 1.5 Segment A 1 Segment B 1 Sense wheel adapt .0007 Misfire detection 0 ISSUES Not to say that my work was perfect, because I had one weeping perimeter head bolt that wasn't torqued properly, I damaged one of the coolant hoses upon reinstall (new one ordered), broke the stupid plastic AOS coolant coupler near the oil fill tube, and the oil filter housing was not torqued to spec (next time I have some spare cash I'll probably do the spin on adapter, I'm so sick of that stupid plastic housing). Bank 1 was ticking badly upon first start, I thought for the worst that I had to drop it again, but thankfully it was just a loose/bad spark connection. I also improperly routed the throttle cable and as a result the DME was confused about the throttle plate angle at first startup, and the idle was stuck at 1200 RPM. Both variocam actuators actuated properly when activated with the PST2, and power through the range is consistent and smooth. The only nagging things I am left with which I am somewhat kicking myself is noticing after the fact that the crank pulley appears to have more run out than I would like to see. I will be measuring this run out soon and investigating the possibility of a flat 6 harmonic under-drive pulley or perhaps a new engine. That and I don't think I have the timing 100% spot on, but it is close. Bank 1 @ TDC Bank 2 @ TDC I am also nervous about a potentially poor decision to abstain from loctite usage on the variocam actuator, lifter carrier, and bearing saddles. When I removed those bolts they appeared to be "factory fresh" oily and brand new for lack of a better term. So I decided to just re-torque them to the specific tightening sequence and value. It wouldn't be the end of the world if someone told me I did that wrong and should really consider removing the cam covers again. At least this time I would be able to do the work faster and with much more confidence. DISCLAIMERS I AM NOT A MECHANIC. I am a computer professional, and have done most of the work on the cars or boats I've owned or used for the past 20 years. Some of the things I comment on in the photo gallery might be done "incorrectly" or be appalling to some who are in this trade. But, I have to say it got the job done and I'm not afraid to drive my car anymore. THANKS First and foremost rennlist and renntech are perhaps the best sources of useful information you can find, since there is not a ton of info about these engines elsewhere, unless you have the money to pay for one of Jake's seminars (which would be totally awesome) or are a Porsche employee. There are several great "DIY" engine drop websites as well, http://www.nutrod.com, http://986fix.com, http://www.oz951.com.../enginedrop.htm, http://101projects.com and Wayne's Boxster book is great as well for M96-01 info, especially for summarizing the cam removal DIY - however it is somewhat "incomplete" as it leaves a few very critical things out such as ensuring proper timing procedure and torque settings are carried out. In the end, nothing can replace the authentic work shop manual. I wouldn't even try to attempt any of this without access to that and a Durametric and/or PST2. Thanks to all the suppliers, Bob @ http://www.sunsetimports.com, Henry @ http://www.porscheoemparts.com, http://www.pelicanparts.com, http://www.rmeuropean.com, http://www.4wheelsautoparts.com, and http://autoatlanta.com And certainly THANK YOU PhillipJ, Dharn55, Loren, Don and crew at Riebes machine shop, Dr. Injector, and anyone else who provided any help including those that helped fund this project through the sale of some of my parts! Now it's time to take a drive!
  23. 2 points
    Hi all, I am almost thru the replacement of a CDR23 / BOSE amplifier (2003 MOST bus) , and wanted to share some of my install notes. I have gained a lot of insight by reviewing previous posts, and hopefully, can add some more to the collective wisdom on this topic! Briefly, I was able to successfully interface a Nakamichi CD400 HU and ARC Audio Mini 4-ch amplifier to the factory wiring harness using an Autoleads PC2-95-4 connector. NO CUTTING/SPLICING of factory wiring was needed, which was a key consideration for me. Result - It works, and sounds noticeably better than stock (w/ the factory spkrs). However, the factory spkrs' deficiencies have now been highlighted, so me-thinks a decent set of Focals, Morels, Dynaudio or the like is the next order of business! Anyway, if anyone is interested in details, please see attached PDF. Note, this is NOT a full DIY tutorial - if you are not familiar w/car stereo installations, I would recommend letting a shop handle this. I purchased this amp from Rod Birch (Car Audio Innovations) and his advise and help was indispensible for me to get thru this project. Thanks, - Sanjeev Amp-HU-install.pdf PS: I would highly recommend Rod Birch - he is extremely knowledgeable about these cars and their ins/outs relative to stereo installs.
  24. 2 points
    1. thanks to loren and the wonderful diy section! 2. i changed my plugs and ignition coils (@ 80K) without removing wheels or bumpers or using a jack/lift. felt my way through it. took me about 3 hours. 3. wanted to share some photos of the condition of my ignition coils and plugs. please note every single ignition coil was damaged. especially the ones facing the rear (003 driver.jpg and 006 pass.jpg). thanks again!
  25. 2 points
    seems odd the cam timing would be off after 200 miles - it was a rather sudden event - one minute, it was fine - the next, rough idle. Had the IMS been done incorrectly, wouldn't have the engine thrown a code and started rough idling immediately? one other question - if this were a faulty sensor, which sensor would I be looking for? Thanks Normally, I would agree that it is a bit odd, however the 1340 code is pretty specific to the issue. What has me intrigued is that all the codes are to one bank, which means the relationship between the intake and exhaust cams on that bank is outside the limits. On a five chain motor, that is pretty much impossible as there is a short chain connecting the two cams on each head that should have never had tension relaxed during the IMS install, which is why the IMS upgrade is less problem prone on 2003 and earlier cars. I think it would be useful to have the car run on a PIWIS or Durametric system to see where the cams actually are; could be that the one bank has a dying VarioCam actuator, or a position sensor that is causing the problem. Hopefully, that is the problem, but if it is, you are not out of the woods just yet because the actuator can be fun to replace with the engine in the car…..
  26. 2 points
  27. 2 points
    Open a couple of tray and carefully pull on each side - the tray assembly will pop out.
  28. 2 points
    We have added in a Reputation system here on RennTech.org. The idea behind a reputation system is the when someone is particularly helpful - you give them a vote. This vote increase their "reputation" for providing good solutions. You do this on a post by post basis. These votes get tallied and can be viewed in the members profile or mini profile. When a thread get enough positive votes it get denoted with a star. This can be a very useful tool to reward those folks that are very helpful here and to also know answers you can trust. As with any system like this - there can be abuse. If there is none - great we leave it 'on'. If there is abuse - then we will simply turn it 'off'. I hope this is a useful tool to thank and reward those valuable members that give quality and accurate help here. Enjoy...
  29. 2 points
    Got it! A gentleman on another forum was kind enough to post pictures and procedure. I kind of guessed that was it but did not want to tear something up out of stupidity.
  30. 2 points
  31. 2 points
    Porsche Boxster Avic D3 Installation Instructions Instructions below: Author trieullionaire Category Boxster (986) - Accessories Submitted 04/15/2008 08:02 PM  
  32. 2 points
  33. 1 point
    Fuse 16 in the left fuse support. In many cases, it is not the fuse but a bad horn (or horns). The factory horns are not very good.
  34. 1 point
    The car needs to scanned with a Porsche diagnostic tool - PIWIS (or PIWIS 2). In some case the fiber optic link has been broken or options changed and a re-configuration is in order. In other cases you may actually have a bad connection or component -- PIWIS will tell the operator where the problem is.
  35. 1 point
    Or you can download them here: http://rennkit.com/home/service-manual/
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    You need to check the wiring harness and connectors for corrosion - or loose pins/crimps.
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    Most problems are becasue the two pins on the bottom of the air cleaner assembly are not located in the grommets - or the grommets have fallen out.
  40. 1 point
    Here is one I have used in the past http://www.aemelectronics.com/boost-gauge-35-psi-767 Cheers.
  41. 1 point
    If the setup on the rears has a lot of negative camber and you drive them hard 10k is probably not that far off... 15 to 20k would be pushing it for a tire like this. I have (and love) the same tires and hope they last 15k.
  42. 1 point
    You can safely and effectively change the IMS bearing to the LN version without any camshaft locking tools. Wayne Dempsey of Pelican Parts has come up with an ingenious way of locking the sprocket on the IMS tube (which is behind the IMS flange,just on the other side of the engine case) by using three 25mm long set screws that get substituted for the IMS flange bolts. Those set screws press against the face of the sprocket (which is inside the engine, on the other side of the case) and prevent the sprocket from moving (or altering the timing). Simple, effective and fool proof, and you don't even have to find TDC and use a locking pin. Regards, Maurice.
  43. 1 point
    I just installed a set last week. The owner's manual shows how to replace the bulb in the side marker lens. It is the same process for changing the lens itself. You need to pull back the protective panel in the wheel well (removal of 3 or 4 screws will give you access to the side marker. Then, you need to insert a screwdriver behind the plastic clip on the installed side marker (this can be a bit challenging since it's hard to locate the clip). Once you get the screwdriver in place, press the side marker out (it is held into place with two pressure clips. The whole side marker pops out and then it is easy to swap out the new lens/bulb. I was a bid timid with the first light, but once I realized I wasn't going to break anything, replacing the second one took all of 10 minutes. If you already installed the clear side marker, did you decide to go with the amber bulbs or the white ones? I guess it is only street legal to go with the amber, but I think the while bulbs look much better/eye catching.
  44. 1 point
    Fred, I am happy for you; replacing the VarioCam actuator is the least objectionable out come................
  45. 1 point
    Retiming is not required if the IMS change out is done correctly. As yours is a five chain motor, it should have been a relatively simple job to lock the engine down before changing the IMS. Without a full analysis of exactly how the service was done, it is difficult to positively connect the two incidents; but I have to add that if your cam timing is off, it would not be the first time I've seen this happen...............
  46. 1 point
    Glad that you enjoyed your trip, and I am confident you will survive these bad times! The tires wearing out and the brake pads wearing down are to be expected with any car, even those that don't bring you any part of the driving pleasure you get out of your Porsche. The Litronic Control Unit should not have burnt out, but you did very well diagnosing it and getting one on eBay for $138. As for the remote on the key... don't get me started on that one. The dealers have a stranglehold on that situation, so we just have to work a little harder to figure out a way around their little monopoly. It makes for a healthy market! So, all in all, considering what this has cost you so far (as long as the remote does not hit you too hard), you are doing okay. As soon as you take it out for another spin you'll feel better. Let us know how the remote situation is resolved. Regards, Maurice.
  47. 1 point
    Soak the gasket in hot water to make it pliable and fit it over the emblem before putting it onto the vehicle.
  48. 1 point
    If you're worried about risking damage to the vehicle stay off the drag strip. Revving the engine and dropping the clutch is always hard on the drive train and not worth the risk in my opinion.
  49. 1 point
    From the Porsche Maintenance Schedule: · On vehicles with annual mileages of less than 9,000 miles (15,000 km), an annual maintenance must be carried out once a year. · Maintenance with oil filter change must be carried out at least every 2 years according to the mileage, if the mileage for a major maintenance has not already been reached. · For an annual mileage of more than 9,000 miles (15,000 km) it is recommended to carry out the next maintenance as soon as possible.
  50. 1 point
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