Dont know if i should just call it quits :/

[Aceler8]

Okay well against advice i bought a 99 porsche back in august because it was in great condition etc. I have been having it worked on here and there when i have a chance since august (both diy and mechanic for more advanced things) So far the fixes have included serpentine belt, fuel filter, oil filter and oil change, master brake cylinder, air filter, wheels, both window regulators, and steering wheel bracket.Every now and then we have had problems with the top not wanting to come down but for the most part it always works fine(yes i know about making sure the brake is all the way up etc) but the MAF code came up last week and they are trying to get the top to go down to acces the engine compartment but it just wont go down. they said that when the light on the dashboard for the convertible top isnt even showing anymore when the car turns on. They checked the fuses and the fuses are fine . Checked B6 and D3. Do you guys know of anything i can do to see why its not working or even to manually try to get it down so we can access the engine compartment.

Aside from that since we got it, when the car is idling it tends to stall at times with the idling dropping below 7k. We have bene going down the list of things it could be and was hoping the changing out the MAF would fix it since that was the code that was now showing but if now what else could be the problem?

Seeing as to how much ive put into this car already and i absolutley love this car i drove it from cali to texas and it drives great, but it seems that every time i get one problem out of the way another one arises :/ Should i try to fix up the last of it and hope thats it or just sell it and try to recoup my losses?any and all information or help is greatly appreciated. Thank you for your help

Edited February 6, 2013 by Aceler8

[1schoir]

Don't despair...It is relatively easy to open the convertible top when everything is not working in the automatic mode.

There is a way to do it by spinning the drive cables with a cordless drill and a way to do it manually by disconnecting the pushrods.

If you want the cordless drill, more automatic, method, let me know and I will give you the details for that procedure. I will spell out the procedure for doing it manually here:

First, unlatch the latch of the convertible top at the top center of the windshield frame.

To get the top to open manually, you must disconnect the white (or red if yours are original and have never been replaced) plastic cups at the base of the B-Pillar and the black hydraulic pushrods where they connect to the V-levers.

Disconnecting the white plastic cups will allow you to operate the convertible top manually.

Disconnecting the black hydraulic pushrods will allow you to operate the clamshell manually.

Here is a diagram of the mechanism, which should help you orient yourself as to what you are looking for:

The V-lever is part #6, the black hydraulic pushrod is part #12, and the white (or red) plastic cup is located on the forward end of part #3. Part #14 is the clamshell, and Part #1 is the canvas top.

To have a better chance to see the parts that must be disconnected, you will have to pull aside the (vinyl) rain curtain. That curtain is loosely held in place by yet another cable that is located at the rearmost corners of the (carpet-covered) engine compartment lid (on the car body, not on the lid). That cable is held on to a small metal ball and you must pry it apart from that metal ball.

Here is a photo of the flexible cable that leads to the metal ball (hidden under the metal cup at the bottom of the cable) at the side of the curtain:

That particular connection is easy to separate, unlike the black hydraulic pushrod.

Once you have the curtain's cable separated, you may also have to remove the black plastic cosmetic covers that are simply clipped onto the arms that support the clamshell (those arms are part #10 in the diagram, and extend from where it is numbered all the way to the front towards part #3 in the diagram). Note that most of the time, on used Boxsters, they have been removed for a repair and not replaced.

.

To access the white plastic cups, sit sideways in the driver's seat with the door open and your feet on the ground. Look down from above the side of the car (just behind where the rear quarter panel meets the rear of the door if the door were closed) and you should be able to see the white (or red) plastic cup. Pry that cup off by levering it outboard. You will need a fat screwdriver or pry bar.

Then you will have to reach between the roll bar hoops, or possibly reach through them, to get at the connection of the hydraulic push rod to the V-lever. That connection is a real bear, so you will have to apply a great deal of pressure to separate it. Be careful not to hurt yourself there, but you just have to get the connection apart, again with the red plastic capped tool in the tool kit, a fat screwdriver or, preferably an angled screwdriver-type pry bar. I have also had success using a non-automotive tool called a cat's claw, which is usually used to pull nails.

Now that you have disconnected the front pushrods and the rear pushrods from their respective steel balls (two on the underside of the B-Pillar frame and two on the rear of the V-levers), you can just pick up the rear of the clamshell and pull it rearward to the 45 degree rearmost position and then just pull the canvas part of the convertible top back to open the top.

Once you have the various parts disconnected, DO NOT press the dashboard switch without CAREFULLY marking (and photographing) the position of the V-levers relative to the sides of the body that they are mounted on. Otherwise, it will be much more difficult to re-sychronize the V-levers (part # 6 in diagram).

Also, be very careful if you decide to operate your top manually because the push rod arms (part #3 in the dagram) that are normally connected to the steel balls at the base of the B-pillars will be dangling from the V-levers. When they are dangling and you move the convertible top V-levers, those push rod arms can dig into the foam liner and tear it, which will cause leaks into the cabin later on. Those push rod arms can also dig in and prevent the V-levers from turning.

Let us know if you run into any roadblocks.

P.S. Don't sell the Boxster unless you are ready to buy another one. :eek:

Any problem you have with the convertible top we can figure out and fix for very little $$.

Regards, Maurice.

[whall]

Maurice is the font of all knowledge re the convertable top. There are experts here on every 986/7 - 996/7 system.

You might find some extra help in the owner's manual.:

Part number: WKD-986-021-99 Title: OWNER MAN 986 1999 B MSRP: $34.86

Order from a dealer (Sunset Porsche if you have an aversion to dealing with a local dealer + you'll get a discount from Sunset)

BTW, if you click on the "Special Offers" tab at the top of the page and you'll find links to Sunset Porsche and Amazon.com (the source of Bentley's Boxster maintenance manual - a good resource for the DIYer).

Bill

Edited February 6, 2013 by whall

[txhokie4life]

Check your Idle control valve... I had this go out on a 99 996. It would hunt idle and occasionally stall coming to a light. Replaced it and all was good.

No codes. However, there is a possibility that its running rich or something and inadvertently setting your MAF off.

Mike

[thom4782]

Regarding the idle issue, there could be several causes. The one I am familiar with is the 'hunting' idle problem where the engine speed varies up and down between 600 and 1100 when stopped at a light. If this is your set of symptoms, you might try cleaning two things before conidering buying parts. One is the throttle body. If its dirty, the car will hunt idle. The other is the MAF. Hope this helps.

[Aceler8]

alright thanks for all the tips. im not there right now but i will let you know which way would be easier to get the top off so thanks for the step by step on that one. and Alright ill look into having the throttle body cleaned. i was going to do it when i first got it but compeltely forgot about it. as for the MAF there are two MAF parts thats i can get here off hand . they are both bosch parts but one part # is 0280218055 and the other is # 0280218145. okay so i just looked and those are not the parts for the 99 boxster. I found a bosch part # 0280217007 for 174.89 (msrp 285.42) and i believe that is the right part number for the 99' right? but the mechanic is telling me i need another one which runs about 350. i will post the part number when i get it but any help would be appreciated thanks.

and whall. alright thanks . yah cause the car didnt come with the manaul :/

and wow thanks maurice so much that will help alot. I definately dont want to sell it unless i get another one but i was starting to lose hope but you guys got me back in the porsche spirits . :thumbup:

Edited February 7, 2013 by Aceler8

[thom4782]

The right MAF depends on your car's year and vin number. Cable driven accelerator cars (Iup through 1999) use MAF 996-606-123-00-M14. E-gas cars (2000 and later) use either 996-606-124-00-M14 or 996-606-125-00-M14 depending on chassis number. Check Pelican Parts and you can see the break points. As I uncerstand it, one can't substitue one model for another without reprogramming the ECU.

[Aceler8]

thanks thorn. i know its kind of irrelevent since i dont have a 2000 but what exactly constitutes the E-gas cars ( like what is the E-gas)

Edited February 7, 2013 by Aceler8

[Loren]

thanks thorn. i know its kind of irrelevent since i dont have a 2000 but what exactly constitutes the E-gas cars ( like what is the E-gas)

From Glossary here on the site... "Egas -- an electronic feedback form of gas pedal to throttle control. As opposed to older cable operated controls."

[Aceler8]

oh okay thank you :thumbup: u was wondering what made it different

[Glyn]

Your model has a throttle cable and therefore an idle speed control valve, these tend to get blocked up and so the idle gets lower and lower and even stall on occasions.

You can remove the Idle control valve without removing the throttle body - just two small bolts, inside the valve is a vane that slides in a concave movement - this gets all gummed up, remove the valve and spray with oven cleaner and leave for a few hours, then carefully with a small screwdriver gently prise the vane open, it should return to the closed position when you remove the screwdriver, keep working it until the movement is free and returns freely, your stall sittuation will then be rectified.

Also, whilst you are working on the valve give the throttle body a good clean - this too will be gummed up, you dont need any propriety cleaner to do this - just use brake fluid - a great cleaner, but dont drip any on paintwork as it will crinkle up and remove the paint

[Aceler8]

Glyn

Thanks, After the replies i was going to have the throttle cleaned but how would i get to the idle control valve without removing the throttle, . do you have any pictures or diagrams that i can use to see where exactly it is, also where would those two small bolts be located exactly?

[1schoir]

Here is a photo of where the two bolts that fasten the Idle Control Valve onto the throttle body are located on a non e-gas Boxster:

Here is what the ICV looks like, removed from the side of the throttle body (this photo from Pedro, IIRC):

Regards, Maurice.

[Loren]

It is hard to see in the photo above but there is a thin paper gasket between the valve and the throttle body. Be sure to not damage or lose this when cleaning.

I usually set it aside and then put it back in place once everything is ready to go back together.

[1schoir]

Here is a photo of the gasket on a cracked ICV (courtesy of Pedro, again IIRC):

Regards, Maurice.

[Aceler8]

thanks for the pictures guys. ill let you know how it turns out